Try turning up the volume pot when you open the coin door (assuming you haven't done this already).

That is a fair question
I did check the pot and also put a meter on it and verified it was working properly directly at the pot and at the connection to the sound board.
10KOhm between the black and red legs, and varied from 10K to 0 when measured from white wire to black and white wire to red.

I felt guilty even typing it... but I've had many friends new to pinball ask me how to adjust the volume and even found a machine I passed on where the speakers were stuffed with fiberglass cause they didn't know about the volume pot lol

I'd probably look at the sound board, remove (and reseat) the eeproms and inspect for any corrosion. Maybe examine the other connections for cold solder joints. Bust out the logic probe (after verifying it is not a voltage problem first) and inspect the PAL chips?

This might be another stupid point to check... but I think you can disable the sound entirely as an option in diagnostics. Maybe check for an option like that? I'm not home to look at mine.

check voltages +5 volts, -5 volts, +12 volts, and -12 volts. Bad voltage regulator? Bad connections?

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#sound

Is a good resource.

No offense taken Thanks for the link.

Board looks good- No visible corrosion.

I'm not sure if i know how the PAL chips work in order to test them, but I do have a logic probe and am looking to educate myself on that.

I verified all the voltages with the exception of -5V. I was unclear of where to physically check the -5volts on the sound board. I may just be over looking, but I am having a hell of a time finding C49.

Again, thanks so much! I'm apparently blind.

I checked voltages on C49 -5V and C47 +5V and measure properly (Picture below)

Color coded my meter leads for confirmation of voltage measurements.

Looks like PAL Chips are where I need to go from here? I am not sure where to order them from, or how to test to see if they are bad in the first place I suppose....

Any tips?

Sound board (resized).PNG

check the CPU? I guess the PALS fail less often than other components.

Pinballspareparts has them (U19 and U20). On the repair wiki I sent you, there is a link to contact someone to get them as well.

Sounds good. The link on the wiki doesn't load so I will check pinballspareparts!

The link in the wiki is an email - I sent you a pm of the address.

If you end up needing to replace the sound board I can highly recommend a PinSound, I have one in my TFTC and it's one of my favourite mods.

For a long time there was some kind of bug with the first version of the PinSound board that prevented it working very well on Data East machines. But this has been fully resolved on the latest versions.

Cheers

Cris

I defiantly was interested in PinSound, but I want to make sure my sound board is the actual issue before I pay for anything of that cost for sure.

I've got an intermittent problem with my TFTC. 8/10 times when the ball hits the drop targets the corresponding face insert lights. But 2/10 times the corresponding face insert doesn't light. The game does correctly recognize that the drop target has been hit but the corresponding insert doesn't light. Tried swapping the bulb. Diodes on sockets tested okay.

I think MAYBE it only happens in this scenario but I'm still not 100%:
I launch the ball and let's say it goes SDTM
Ball Save (Freeze!) activated
Drop targets pop back up
Saved ball auto launches and hits the drops
The light corresponding to the hit drop target doesn't light.

I have the Chad 4.0 code. Anyone else ever notice this happening?

Here's a video of what i'm talking about: https://streamable.com/0etana

Just posted my Tftc for sale on Facebook

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Dont see it whats thw price?

$4500 or trade offer

Anyone have a chance to check their TFTC for this? Would much appreciate it!

Pretty sure this is normal, mine does the same thing.
The ball save is 'x' number of switch hits, it will give you the ball back but code likely doesn't give you drop points for the saved ball target hit.
You still get an X bonus if the other two are hit and drop during the saved ball.

Now if during regular ball play a target does not light or register when hit/dropped you might need to adjust that target's switch blades or you've got another issue.

ah okay gotcha that makes sense. Thanks for checking appreciate it!

Hello Everyone,

I'm checking to see if there is enough interest to run another Data East opto board batch for 2021.

Details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Thanks.

oh wow yes please, I’m in!

SOLD

Officially leaving the owners club today sold my TFTC for $4400. Great game ... should have a new member soon.

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For those of you still wanting airball plastics (and possibly the optional red plastic piece), I've opened a shop selling them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1296-mad-czar-games/04565-tales-from-the-crypt-airball-protection-plastic-mod

Thanks,
Steven

Thanks. Just ordered them!

Thanks for making these. I ordered a replacement for my busted red piece and the airball protector. Can't wait to install.

Your RIP scoop hole is in really nice condition as these scoop holes are normally pretty thrashed on TFTC. You may want to install a Mantis protector to keep it in this nice condition.

https://mantispinball.com/product/tales-from-the-crypt-hole-protector/

Gord

Lol. You know, I was just thinking about that around a month ago.
Thanks for the reminder.

What are the best blade decals for Tales?

And is this the right side rail armor for tales?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5010-3X

I went with the tilt graphics when we did a cabinet restore. Had mirror blades previously but I think this one ties in to the game better.

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Yes I believe that is correct. Click on the 'Product Compatibility' tab from your link and it confirms that they are correct.

Gord

I really dig those black decals. I've thought about doing those instead of the blue whenever I get around to my restoration. Just looks really sharp.

All the playfields I have seen show a bright green for outlines. Mine only has the bright green as an outline in the back of the playfield. The rest of the outlines are in a light blue. It almost looks as if they ran out of green and went with the blue? Does anyone else have a playfield painted like this?

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Perhaps there is some fading of the green colors on your TFTC playfield as it is bright green on the back of the playfield where it would be less exposed to any direct sunlight or other overhead lighting.

I have attached a photo of an NOS TFTC playfield prior to it being installed in my game as a reference for colors.

Gord

tales 081 (resized).JPG

Thanks...i didn't even think of overhead lighting....you are probably right since it seems to blend from the green to the blue wothout a sharp distinction.

Does anybody have a left lane guide plastic they would part with?

My Crypt I bought a couple months ago had several cracked or broken plastics, but already had the thicker repro (long) air ball stopper and thicker red plastic. The stopper works fine (I'll likely get one of the new 'shorter' ones), but the back left point of the repro red plastic broke yesterday. The back points of the red plastic support with hex posts the back of the skill shot artwork plastic, which also rests on the bumper cap.

Obviously the back red points take a ton of hits from balls coming from below and above, and the original and repros can be broken.

So since I intend to at some point get a set of CPR repro plastics (and protectors), I decided to cut/file the red points off the red repro plastic and lose the support hex posts. 20201209_222724.jpgThe left side now ends over two posts and the right ends where the playfield wireform ends. 20201209_210830.jpg20201209_221345.jpgI attached the lamp reflector to the left hole of the skill shot art plastic with a screw and locknut, and drilled a small hole through the plastic so that the it can be secured by the right screw of the bumper cap.20201209_222824.jpg Unfortunately the art plastic stops short of the left cap screw because of the lamp underneath. The empty right hole could be filled with a short screw and locknut.

I consider it a mockup for now until I make/modify a nicer red plastic and maybe a longer art plastic, but they both line up, and the two lamp sockets and wiring help hold the art plastic pretty snug in place. Played a few games banging on the targets and all is good.

BTW those one-piece black WMS/Bally reflector sockets are sweet, got 'em at Pinball Life.

This is really interesting. When I was test fitting the original red repro piece I had to work from, I also thought that the holes were too large and there wasn't enough material to enforce those smaller ends, as you are also pointing out.

So for the plastics I made up, I shrunk the hole a little in an effort to provide more stability on those back points. I'm really interested now if my efforts are going to bear fruit or if I should try to change the shape even more to provide more support. Time will tell I guess.

Great writeup of what you're doing. I wish I could think of a better non-destructive way to attach the skill shot plastic as well, but there's not much there to work with.

You're at least the third person to repro these, and I thought the other two had big holes also.
The hex posts and locknut would tighten down into the bigger holes, putting more stress on an already stressed area.
You can add small washers to the top and bottom of those bigger holes, but I really think the problem is just having ANYTHING stick past where I trimmed this red plastic back to. There's no cosmetic loss by not having them go further back, it looks fine, and if that back edge of the skill shot plastic went 1/2 inch further back so the other pop screw could go through it we'd be good to go.

We NEED to have the 1/8 thick airball stopper and 1/8 repro red trim on the front to take the brunt of all the target hits, but that 1/4 inch total is now too thick to properly tighten down a lock nut onto, so I had to get two of these from Pinball Life that have a longer thread on top...

https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5008-00.html
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The new post is a little thicker on top than a normal plastic post, about 1/8 thick, so a 3/16 hole would work for that.

This is my 3rd (and final) TFTC I've owned, so over time I'm gonna do tweaks/mods to it.
Next will be to lower the freakin' shooter lane plastic that always hits the top of the head when raising the playfield all the way up. It needs to be just below the apron top. Of the three Crypt's I've owned this is the first with an unbroken one.

Hello everyone !
I'm a newbye, I just bought a TFTC in good condition, 100% working but with the sound restart issue (NO P..NO PAY...NO PAYEM...). I first try to unplug and replug connectors on the sound board, no luck with that, then I disassembled the power board and discovered some capacitors on it are different compared to the scheme. In particular C3, C7, C10, C11. Could you please tell me what your powerboard mount there ? Or if is better to mount some different capacitors to avoid any problem ? I don't really know if replace it with the same mounted or the ones from the electrical scheme.
Thanks for reply !

If you are talking about the game saying NO PAYEM' NO- when you first turn it on with the power switch under the cabinet, it's supposed to do that. Nothing is broken. It should then go into attract mode with all the lights blinking like an xmas tree.

No I’m not. during game music stops and sounds are missing or replaced by the “No payem...No...No pay” it seems sound is trying to reactivate but it don’t.

Thanks man...easily installed..work perfect

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I installed the airball plastic and it definitely improves game play. Your light on top should be a spotlight on a hex spacer pointing towards the spinner

image (resized).jpg

hi guys,

I just closed a deal on a TFTC pinball. Waiting on the shipping company now.

i'm looking to buy a topper and any cool mods.

also looking for any NOS plastics.

thanks

What are the best sideblades out there? They are so many choices to choose from !

Congrats!

The only likely way to get a (repro) topper is do what I did and get in on the next Zitt group order for imported Pinball Universe parts.
It will cost you around $100-ish with cost/fees/share of shipping. The paint job is not perfect and I repainted the letters and hands then touched up the black, then satin clearcoated it. The plastic thickness is good. PM Zitt for ordering details.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed/page/2#post-6083233

About 5 or 6 plastics on my TFTC are broken so I bought the CPR repro set during their end of year sale.
The repro line art is a bit thicker but acceptable if you swap out the whole set. NOS plastics are pretty much NLA.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/tales-from-the-crypt-2/

I'm not normally a fan of sibeblades because most are too 'busy', but these to me would look good.

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/tales-from-the-crypt-the-hills-gameblades

duplicate post

Thanks for all that info.

You think the hills with friends side blades would be too busy?

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/copy-of-tales-from-the-crypt-gameblades

I think the characters are a bit too big, only the Cryptkeeper's head is bigger on the pf.
But that's just how I see it, you need to choose what YOU like my friend.
I will say you need to get a Color DMD for it, it's awesome (not a fan of Color LCD).