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(Topic ID: 55059)

TFTC OWNERS: "Fang Club" - "The MORGUE, the merrier!"


By E_N_3

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,819 posts
  • 311 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by dddanielll
  • Topic is favorited by 130 Pinsiders

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There are 3819 posts in this topic. You are on page 73 of 77.
#3601 11 months ago

Those are always hot, which is normal. They are a part of the controlled lamps, not the display.
You would be looking for something burning on the power supply ( upper left)

#3602 11 months ago

U were right this plug is hot to the touch very hot that's where the burning smell is coming from I can see some darking on the front of the plug too

20191229_174551 (resized).jpg
#3603 11 months ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

U were right this plug is hot to the touch very hot that's where the burning smell is coming from I can see some darking on the front of the plug too[quoted image]

Careful with that. Mine started that way and then all of a sudden it literally blew up (Fried a few terminals along with the pins at the board). You can repair it or replace it with the reliable XPIN XP-DE5047 along with the
XP-WMSGI-EXT to connnect the GI. My cable was too small and I am happy I bought it along with the board (You can also make it yourself if you have the same connector and cables).

It would be cool if it did not come to this, but at least there is a solid solution.

#3604 11 months ago

So they make those wires and the connector to replace it

#3605 11 months ago

You know who sells that thanks alot

#3606 11 months ago

Great plains electronics sells everything separately.
Better yet, probably easier to buy it at Marco

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKWMS

#3607 10 months ago

Does TFTC need to use the OCD LED board?

#3608 10 months ago
Quoted from Mister_Swede:

Can anyone give me the meassurement of the anti airball plastic so i can create it please
I am still waiting for somewhere to order, so now i want to make them

I sell them. I have an ad here on pinside.

#3609 10 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Does TFTC need to use the OCD LED board?

No.. if you have non ghosting LED’s like comet NG you will be fine.

#3610 10 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

No.. if you have non ghosting LED’s like comet NG you will be fine.

Thanks!

#3611 10 months ago

But the ocd board gets rid of the annoying relay that pulses the GI lights and keeps your from stroking out... lol

#3612 10 months ago

Hi, I installed the code 4.00 and I noticed a defect, if during the same ball I take 2 extraballs (one with the captive ball and one with the mission) actually when the ball goes in the hole the system considers me one, it happens to you too?

#3613 10 months ago

Hi all,

Just wanted to share some work I have done on the topper. I had posted about this about a year ago but only just got back to it and finished off the build.

From what I have seen on the forums, mods are all down to personal preference. Keeping it close to stock or going all out, there is no right or wrong way. Some people may have some ideas or electronics know how on how to do this better/differently. Happy to share the details, code, parts if anyone is interested in doing something similar. For me I wanted a mod that doesn't change the topper permanently (well only slightly with clear luminous paint) and could be brought back to stock. The topper also runs independent of the pinball (needing no wiring into the cabinet) but make things less static than just the un-lit topper.

When powered (12v supply) the UV light is on, TFTC lettering glows with luminous paint. 3 flashers are installed for simulated lighting strikes that run on a random timer (usually once every few minutes) with random intensities/duration followed shortly by a random rolling thunder sound clip. There are 14 different sound clips. I added in some crypt keeper sound bytes (mostly from the Christmas album) as it was the best quality crypt keeper recordings I could find. Some editing was done in Audacity to fade in and out or shorten/edit some of the crypt keepers call outs.. "The fastest way to a mans heart is with a pick axe!"

Topper is mounted on a board with 4 magnetic feet.
Luminous glow in the dark green paint has been added to the lettering and a UV strip light installed. There is no visible difference to the lettering in daylight.
Arduino Nano is running a micro SD card and 3 flashers
Small amp running 2 speakers with volume control. Can easily just let the topper run with random lightening flashes and no callouts/thunder.

Video here. Taken during the day in a lit room but gives an idea on what it does.

20200109_092642[5032] (resized).jpg20200109_103413[5030] (resized).jpg20200109_103438[5031] (resized).jpg20200109_103543[5029] (resized).jpg
#3614 10 months ago
Quoted from jamex:

Hi, I installed the code 4.00 and I noticed a defect, if during the same ball I take 2 extraballs (one with the captive ball and one with the mission) actually when the ball goes in the hole the system considers me one, it happens to you too?

Not exactly sure what you are asking but if you earn two extra balls in a game, it should keep track that you have two. The only thing I can think of is if you go into the service menu / adjustments and make sure the game isn't limited to 1 extra ball.

#3615 10 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

Non esattamente sicuro di ciò che stai chiedendo, ma se guadagni due palline extra in una partita, dovrebbe tenere traccia del fatto che ne hai due. L'unica cosa che mi viene in mente è se vai nel menu di servizio / regolazioni e assicurati che il gioco non sia limitato a 1 palla in più.

Thanks

#3616 10 months ago

Man, my Italian is getting good

#3617 10 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

Not exactly sure what you are asking but if you earn two extra balls in a game, it should keep track that you have two. The only thing I can think of is if you go into the service menu / adjustments and make sure the game isn't limited to 1 extra ball.

If during the third and last ball I take 2 extraballs (one with the mission and one with the captive ball) the game afterwards considers one extraball only. If I take the extraballs at the same time but in the first or second ball, the pinball considers 2 extraballs correctly. If I take them in different balls the pinball always considers 2 extraballs. So I guess it's a software bug. Sorry for my english

#3618 10 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

Man, my Italian is getting good

Provo a spiegare in italiano?

1 week later
#3619 10 months ago

Working on my new-for-me TFTC because the center drop target broke off. I also wondered why I was missing the skill shot when the ball was hitting the left and right drops. Found out the leaf switches for the left and right drops were reversed (confirmed by the diagnostics and the schematics). Even stranger is that when I look at the wiring harness, it almost seems that it was that way from the factory, or at least a very long time. Funny how things get overlooked. Anyway, it's fixed and the game is working fine. Next are LEDs and maybe a Color DMD LED.

#3620 10 months ago

Welcome the to club!! The morgue the merrier!!

Quoted from wayinla:

Next are LEDs and maybe a Color DMD LED.

Color DMD is a must!!

#3621 10 months ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

Welcome the to club!! The morgue the merrier!!

Color DMD is a must!!

The LED version require no modification to the back box, correct? Plug and play?

#3622 10 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

The LED version require no modification to the back box, correct? Plug and play?

I have the LCD and that requires modification. LED does not required modification.

#3623 10 months ago

Recently bought my first pin, TFTC, and the center drop target (guillotine) has broken off. I have ordered a replacement set from Marco but I have no idea how to replace it. I am as new as new gets when it comes to owning a pinball table - not the most mechanic-savvy, but I have a strong desire to learn, and I especially don't want to mess anything up due to ignorance. I saw some historic posts on people saying to "remove the bank"; however, I am still having a hard time understanding that, and I'm still confused on how you remove the drop target completely. As you can see in the photo, I unhooked the spring and tried to pull the target out, but it's not happening. Any help is greatly appreciated!

TFTC1 (resized).jpgTFTC2 (resized).jpg
#3624 10 months ago
Quoted from 1Chance:

Recently bought my first pin, TFTC, and the center drop target (guillotine) has broken off. I have ordered a replacement set from Marco but I have no idea how to replace it. I am as new as new gets when it comes to owning a pinball table - not the most mechanic-savvy, but I have a strong desire to learn, and I especially don't want to mess anything up due to ignorance. I saw some historic posts on people saying to "remove the bank"; however, I am still having a hard time understanding that, and I'm still confused on how you remove the drop target completely. As you can see in the photo, I unhooked the spring and tried to pull the target out, but it's not happening. Any help is greatly appreciated![quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on the TFTC! It's a great fun pin.

You need to remove four screws (two on the left and two on the right) on the sides of the drop target bank to get it off the play field. This is the most awkward part of the procedure because it could be partially blocked by some wiring on the left, but it's not difficult. A longer socket wrench or extension would be useful. You also need to disconnect the wires that connect to the drop target switches and coil. I think it's the connector on the bottom left of drop target bank in your second picture (with the three white, brown and green wires). Then you can remove the bank. Once it's off you can remove the plate that prevents the "feet" of the drop targets from coming out. That comes off with two screws. You can then take off the spring from the target and slide it out from the top.

#3625 10 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Congrats on the TFTC! It's a great fun pin.
You need to remove four screws (two on the left and two on the right) on the sides of the drop target bank to get it off the play field. This is the most awkward part of the procedure because it could be partially blocked by some wiring on the left, but it's not difficult. A longer socket wrench or extension would be useful. You also need to disconnect the wires that connect to the drop target switches and coil. I think it's the connector on the bottom left of drop target bank in your second picture (with the three white, brown and green wires). Then you can remove the bank. Once it's off you can remove the plate that prevents the "feet" of the drop targets from coming out. That comes off with two screws. You can then take off the spring from the target and slide it out from the top.

Thanks for the response, Wayinla! I was able to remove the bank, however, it still seems to be tangled in some cords, I have to still work with it inside the cab to make sure it's not just dangling from a couple wires. My table doesn't seem to stand up on its own, so I have to have another person holding it in order to properly work on this (is it possible for the PF to stand up on its own?). I also noticed on the middle drop target, the piece of metal that sits behind the target is bent forward more than the other two -- I'm hoping this won't prevent it from dropping down when the ball hits it. I feel like I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be, but the help is certainly appreciated!

#3626 10 months ago
Quoted from 1Chance:

Thanks for the response, Wayinla! I was able to remove the bank, however, it still seems to be tangled in some cords, I have to still work with it inside the cab to make sure it's not just dangling from a couple wires. My table doesn't seem to stand up on its own, so I have to have another person holding it in order to properly work on this (is it possible for the PF to stand up on its own?). I also noticed on the middle drop target, the piece of metal that sits behind the target is bent forward more than the other two -- I'm hoping this won't prevent it from dropping down when the ball hits it. I feel like I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be, but the help is certainly appreciated!

Playfield should stand up by itself. Mine requires some force to get it sliding forward on the rails.
Dont be afraid to move some wires around to get the bank out. Take lots of pictures to help you if something gets out of place.
Not sure about the piece of metal that is bent more forward. Pics would help.

Data East - Lifting Playfield.pdf
#3627 10 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Playfield should stand up by itself. Mine requires some force to get it sliding forward on the rails.
Dont be afraid to move some wires around to get the bank out. Take lots of pictures to help you if something gets out of place.
Not sure about the piece of metal that is bent more forward. Pics would help.[quoted image]

Well, bad news. I was able to remove the bank, replaced the drop targets, and got it screwed back in (which was damn tough!). Fired it up and none of the drop targets would go down... started to smell smoke and saw smoke coming up from underneath the table while doing a diagnostic check. The coil attached to the drop target bank is super hot. I turned the machine off immediately. No idea what to do from here. It’s quite an intense smell and the last thing I want is for this thing to catch fire. Trying to figure out where I went wrong...

#3628 10 months ago

Made a quick video of my tftc (for sale) with the PinSound board installed.

#3629 10 months ago
Quoted from 1Chance:

Well, bad news. I was able to remove the bank, replaced the drop targets, and got it screwed back in (which was damn tough!). Fired it up and none of the drop targets would go down... started to smell smoke and saw smoke coming up from underneath the table while doing a diagnostic check. The coil attached to the drop target bank is super hot. I turned the machine off immediately. No idea what to do from here. It’s quite an intense smell and the last thing I want is for this thing to catch fire. Trying to figure out where I went wrong...

I am out right now and don’t have the pin in front of me. Maybe a diode died on the coil? I’m also new to Data East games. You can replace the diode or maybe need to buy a new coil. Not sure if there is a transistor on the MPU that also needs to be replaced. Someone with more experience should step in. Do you have the manual? If not search for it online and download it.

1 week later
#3630 10 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

I am out right now and don’t have the pin in front of me. Maybe a diode died on the coil? I’m also new to Data East games. You can replace the diode or maybe need to buy a new coil. Not sure if there is a transistor on the MPU that also needs to be replaced. Someone with more experience should step in. Do you have the manual? If not search for it online and download it.

Sorry for the delayed response, I have been away. I was able to discover that while taking out the drop target bank and reinstalling it, I must have snapped the diode that is connected to the coil (see attached photo). My newbie question, however, is this: is it okay to just re-solder the diode? Or, does the diode need to be completely replaced. I still have not turned on the machine for a couple weeks when it initially started smoking. I'm assuming this diode being broken is what caused the smoke and for the coil to become heated, correct?

TFTCSolder (resized).jpg
#3631 10 months ago

Yes you can resolder - hopefully that fixed the problem!

#3632 10 months ago

Would love to be a part of this club at some point. TFTC is my girlfriend's favorite game and we're definitely in the market. Currently I have a R&B I'm trying to do a full shop/restore on to get it in tip top shape to trade for a TFTC down the road

#3633 10 months ago

It's official! TFTC is now the longest lasting game that I have hung on to. I have let some real beauties go. My TFTC is above a players condition, but nowhere's near any game that I have owned. I would have never guessed that this one would last longer then any others. I leave it alone for awhile and play it... and think "Damn I love this game". I have to say it is also one of the most reliable games I have ever owned. I still LOVE this game! Everyone else loves this game too. I have said other machines were bolted to the floor, I have learned, "Nothing" is bolted forever..but this has the best chance now. Just saying.

#3634 10 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

Yes you can resolder - hopefully that fixed the problem!

Unfortunately, not. The coil still heats and produces a smokey smell. I'm in the dark from here - gonna have to call someone to do an in-home repair. The things we do for the silver ball, eh?!

1 week later
#3635 9 months ago

Anyone have problems with this red bulb coming loose? The incandescent bulbs seems to grip and stay in but an LED seems to slip out. I tried bending the contacts in the socket but it didn’t help much.

1E316F27-5A4F-4FE9-9E21-063E028C80A5 (resized).jpeg
#3636 9 months ago

I use a drop of hot glue on the underside. Works great and won’t come loose again. And easily peels off

#3637 9 months ago
Quoted from schwts:

I use a drop of hot glue on the underside. Works great and won’t come loose again. And easily peels off

Thanks! I'll give it a try.

#3638 9 months ago

Hey Fright Fans!

I'm looking for this plastic piece that's circled. If anyone happens to have an extra one, please send me a PM. Would love to get this plastic piece replaced.

Thanks

Capture (resized).JPG
#3639 9 months ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Hey Fright Fans!
I'm looking for this plastic piece that's circled. If anyone happens to have an extra one, please send me a PM. Would love to get this plastic piece replaced.
Thanks[quoted image]

The guy that sells the airball stopper also makes these. Hes on the pinside shop

#3640 9 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

The guy that sells the airball stopper also makes these. Hes on the pinside shop

@djshakes is his handle.

#3641 9 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Anyone have problems with this red bulb coming loose? The incandescent bulbs seems to grip and stay in but an LED seems to slip out. I tried bending the contacts in the socket but it didn’t help much.[quoted image]

I use a small slices of electrical tape, wrapped around the base to increase the girth.

#3642 9 months ago

Thanks Sonic for directing me towards DJshakes. Unfortunately, he no longer carries the red plastic that was made over a year ago. Back to the drawing board for that piece. I am however getting an air ball protector from him.

#3643 9 months ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Thanks Sonic for directing me towards DJshakes. Unfortunately, he no longer carries the red plastic that was made over a year ago. Back to the drawing board for that piece. I am however getting an air ball protector from him.

I might have a clear one that was made when I got my game. I replaced it with a red one. I will check tonight.

2 weeks later
#3644 9 months ago

Anyone have a spare door handle for sale?

#3645 9 months ago
Quoted from etnfrd67:

Anyone have a spare door handle for sale?

Good luck with this search. In 12 + years of reading this forum I don't think I have ever seen a complete working TFTC door handle for sale. I have seen a partial TFTC door handle for sale both on Pinside and on Ebay, but never a complete working TFTC door handle.

It would be nice to see this unobtanium part get re-made, but there must be challenges with re-making it or perhaps there simply isn't enough demand.

Gord

#3646 9 months ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

Mine came from another pinsider but the concept is the same. Here's a few pics again to show my example.
Airball problem completely solved!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

HI i got mine today how long in front is the one you got mine is very far out, looking from above mine is covering the 3 heads completly is that to long??

#3647 9 months ago
Quoted from etnfrd67:

Anyone have a spare door handle for sale?

I bought a brass one on ebay and made it work, cost was around $15 shipped. Granted not the exact match, but it works and looks better than nothing!!

tftc final 047 (resized).JPG
-1
#3648 9 months ago
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

I bought a brass one on ebay and made it work, cost was around $15 shipped. Granted not the exact match, but it works and looks better than nothing!![quoted image]

That looks great. I understand that DE got the original handles from a hard ware store.

Marco still sells a replica, but if I needed one, I'd go your route. I think it looks better than the original.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5443-00

#3649 9 months ago
Quoted from Mister_Swede:

HI i got mine today how long in front is the one you got mine is very far out, looking from above mine is covering the 3 heads completly is that to long??

It's 2.5 inches by 3.5 inches.

IMG_20200228_1352595.jpg

Quoted from etnfrd67:

Anyone have a spare door handle for sale?

Quoted from PinballOrphanage:

I bought a brass one on ebay and made it work, cost was around $15 shipped. Granted not the exact match, but it works and looks better than nothing!![quoted image]

IMG_20200228_1347234.jpg

#3650 9 months ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

It's 2.5 inches by 3.5 inches.
[quoted image]
Mine came from a hardware store.
[quoted image]

Hi Sean,

Your TFTC door handle which came from a hardware store looks exactly like my TFTC door handle which as far as I know is the original TFTC door handle. If you have a link for this door handle you may want to post it as I am sure it would help out some fellow TFTC owners.

See the photo of my TFTC door handle below which I believe to be original.

Gord

P1000577 (resized).JPG

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