The Mantis is a really good concept- it's just not 'plug and play' due to a wonky design variant I don't agree with that can be adjusted; with new looking scoops especially it's definitely the way to go - but only with right-side arm adjustment prior to install.

The whole putty bridge I initally tried to build on top of the protector to the playfield- look, I'm not mechanical by nature. If I was, I'd have figured the scoop vibration alone would have toppled that lightning quick. But with Gords help, have now taken what seems to be a more sustainable approach.

With mine, a sample/prototype, want to find a way to make the Mantis work well. The stock cliffy didn't fit, and the original vibe would be nice for my sample if it can be done.

Does anyone's TFTC launch the ball with the left flipper button (mine does)?

Not mine.

Not mine either.

Only if I hit both flippers together but then it launches into the bottom of 3rd flipper when it shoots out

Thanks for the replies. It was doing this the other night during a two player game. Last night it did not during my usual one player game. I'll try two players again tonight and check the wiring around the trough/shooter area.

I tried doing this with 1 player + 2 players. The same result occurred both times.

If the ball is in the shooter lane, I can hit the left or right flipper and nothing happens. I hit both flippers together nothing happens.
I hit the flippers one at a time....left/right/left/right/left/right/left/right...and then the ball launches.

Johnny, I would try to see if you can replicate this in test mode. Or alternatively try to find out if a different switch is triggering at the same time you use the flipper. Could be vibration causing a switch contact. IE In normal play, if the ball is in the shooter lane, and you manually press a switch that is not the drop targets, the ball will automatically launch.

This is a good suggestion. I remember the ball launching when I had the glass off and testing switches.

As soon as a switch is activated the ball will launch.

Thanks. There is a flipper ball launch option in the adjustments which launches the ball when both flippers are pushed at the same time. I turn this option off on my games.

I tried a two player game this morning and nothing unusual happened so it must be wiring under the playfield. I'll open it up tonight and see what may be going on...

run a switch test and see if another switch is being activated when you hit the left flipper.

I have a set of now hard to find figures that fit nicely into the pin. As the story goes they were what Borg wanted to use in the machine--but were cut for cost. May be true, I don't know for sure. Send me a PM if interested.

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Fellow TFTC owners,

Can anybody direct me to sources how to resolve Random Game Resets? My pin was working fine for months, but all of a sudden I consistently get game resets. I cannot determine what sequences of events "have to be taken" in order to make the game reset. It feels like after a random period of time, when I hit the flipper button the game would reset.

Anybody recall somebody else having this problem and can provide the resources how to diagnose this? What series of steps would you recommend for me to do to the pin to target the issue?

FYI, the machine sat idle for years until I bought it. I rebuilt the playfield, full flipper rebuild kits, replaced majority of the fuses and the game worked until recently.

Typically, resets are due to low voltage (should be 5v) going to the MPU/CPU board. Generally it means the capacitors or bridge rectifiers associated with the 5v line on the power board go south.

IMHO..

Easy way...you would want to pick up an xpin power supply board ($100?), swap that in and see if you still have issues.

Harder way... get a multi meter and monitor your 5v going to the CPU/MPU, if its dropping low or below 5 already then you would likely need to replace the components or go back to the easy way. Worse case is you could have some sort of a short which would lead to more troubleshooting but my guess is the power board is going.

He is EXACTLY correct....pick up the Xpin PS board and you'll be fine....that thing fixes so many annoying problems on DE pins because of that poorly designed PS board....

Yea.. I actually have an Xpin as a hot spare.. as soon as my original board even sniffs some issues, its coming right out and I am not looking back.

.

The original power supplies cause more problems than they are worth, replace it with what has been mentioned or a Rotten Dog. I had soooo many issues, game was down for over a year, had it professionally repaired, lasted six months... Ditched the original PS, no problems since..

I have a friend with a JP having naggy, intermittent issues and convinced him to buy a new Xpin PS - which he literally got today , just got an email that he installed it tonight and all his intermittent issues went away...and he was happy...

Wow! Thanks everyone for the quick reply. I am looking for the easy way out as I have limited time. Is this the board many are recommending to get:

https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-de5047/

If not, please let me know what model to get and i'll order one ASAP to see if this fixes my problem. Also, in the description it recommends to get the "GI replacement cables"... Has anyone had to get one with the board?

I wouldn't mind ordering a Xpin PS as well. Unfortunately they don't ship to Canada.

That’s the one.. Not sure about the Gi..if you can find out the connector #s, and take a look yours.. if they are browned and burnt then do it. Depending how long you expect to have the game then might be a good pickup if they aren’t too much more.

Edit.. I don’t think you need one and it looks like you would have to do some intermediate level wiring/soldering

Well actually the skull one was supposed to go over the scoop, kind of like Fester, but it really doesn't fit there. The others can be put in other places if desired but you'd have to modify things since the vibration in the game will otherwise cause them to slide off. I haven't modded the one I have now other than the choices of LED lighting.

I bought these disgustingly real looking eye ball props from eBay user -> deadheadprops

Dremmeled the back of them & placed them over the scoop + ramp LEDs. Haven't fallen off once!
2a9d967b55ed3022cf912c5f6f2a36da2ba777e7.jpg6070ca37d0875aa939e83efe0fd9b5e9a3d6ff77.jpg8c4684ae7dcf49da5b015fd03ebb3c8fe6f1910a.jpg

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Looking to join the club if anyone wants to sell their TFTC let me know thanks.

Is there any manufacturer actively making reproduction playfields? I have seen where Marco had them at some point not too long ago. I am interested in buying a new playfield to bring my project to life, so that I can join the club!

I too, would love a new playfield! Have not had any success in finding one though...

Took me 6-8 months, two WTB ads & constant bumping for me to finally secure a NOS TFTC playfield.

Prior to finding my NOS TFTC playfield, I messaged Mirco and asked about the possibility of a TFTC repro playfield run. He replied saying that he doesn't have the rights to reproduce them anymore and that it's not possible at this time.

Just an FYI...

If the plastic part you need ships to Canada I can be your go between and ship it to you.

Lol "You're gonna die"

Does this picture suffice?

IMG_20180820_0743268.jpg

Would you make an extra set for sale?

I purchased the large plastic on eBay from a guy in Germany. But I don't have the others.

ebay.com link: 0

Fellow TFTC owners,

You guys were right about my power issue. The image provided shows the horrible aftermath opening up the backbox to see with my horrible eyes. Makes since why I was getting game resets.

So, I am going to look into buying the recommended power board (XPin). I do not have electrical background here. Can you tell me what gauge of wire is used on the harness? I also have to replace that connector.

How would you suggest for me to replace the connector on the harness?
1. pull on the harness to get the rest of the slack and cut as little as I can off the burnt connector to replace with a new connector?

2. Replace the whole harness component this one is attached to?

What sites are best to order these connectors along with rolls of wire for decent prices?

Lastly, how can I prevent this from happening again in the future after I replace this board with the XPin power supply board? Is this a product of another issue that I need to resolve or does it stop there? Trying to see how fellow pinheads trace issues like this.

Thanks for the information in advance!

IMG_6924 (resized).JPG

Good news.....not that bad off....same thing happened to mine....

So, for starters, new board...you bet...Xpin is perfect...sell the old one - lots of folks will want it and will repair it - it's not lost.

Next, Great Plains Electronics has EVERYTHING you need....it's actually not too bad, but there is a BUT....you'll need a small tool that 'pops' those terminals out of the plastic housing - most of those terminals are not bad...looks like you'll have to replace at least 4 terminals....once popped out (take plenty of pics) you can simply cut off the burnt ends and put on new terminals - they are .093, as well as you'll need a new housing (all at GPE)...however, I'd replace all of the terminals - it won't take much longer to do...the big BUT here is the tool needed to crimp those terminals - (also available at GPE) - whereas the terminal stuff is cheap (the XPIN board not so much) you'll have to put some money into the crimping tool - it is NECESSARY (not nice to have) you can't do an adequate crimp without it....

Where are you located? Check the Pinsider Map for nearby owners and try to make contact with the local collector community where you will find all sorts of friendly, knowledgable, and tool-rich help!

Changed my profile to show my location (Ridgecrest, CA). Yeah, as expected there is a bunch of members in LA area (2 1/2 - 3 hours away).

Thanks for the idea. I'll look into this and maybe that will work out.

And here's why folks are hesitant to help sometimes.....you give a guy all he needs to know, not even an thanks........

According to the TFTC manual game adjustment 34 turns attract music on/off.

Gord

Are you sure you are "installing" the adjustment? IE is it showing "off" when you go back into the adjustment menu after rebooting or leaving the menu?

Just making sure you're covering all the bases.

So the Mantis does NOT protect an epoxy/qwikwood repaired scoop. Even after adjustment and mylar. The fill wears down in time without a cliffy. As such cliffy or cliffy like protector is needed for most TFTC scoops after such a repair- plain and simple.

While the Mantis might do the job decently on the sides, on top where no cliffy exists the fill collapses in the unprotected area from ball travel/impact, even with mylar in place. According to Vid, a fiberglass resin repair would be the indestructible workaround- but this involves serious workmanship skill in my opinion, as you'd have to manipulate a solvent in a fitted aluminum dam- and then, once repaired, what would be the need for a protector then anyways?

I went ahead and ordered a scoop protector from Portugal- the cliffy imitation, as it were- but it appears to have a latch to lock firmly to the underside of the right side of the scoop, not just the front like the Cliffy design- so my hopes is that'll be a solution that keeps the protector in place on my game.

Seems like a Mantis can only work properly on a new playfield or scoop with absolutely no chipping.

Yea, I was playing a few days ago and chips of qwik wood were flying around every few shots on the scoop. I still like the mantis better than the cliffy though.

In your case for sure keep the mantis until you do the swap.

Music plays non-stop during attract mode? Like... always playing? If so, then something is wrong. Should only play briefly.