Marysville, OH
So randomly my left flipper will go dead. Switch shows in test mode. Ive reseated connectors. Any suggestions?
(Topic ID: 55059)
Linked Games
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021-
Tales from the Crypt
Data East, 1993
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Robertstone0407:So randomly my left flipper will go dead. Switch shows in test mode. Ive reseated connectors. Any suggestions?
Clean the contacts. Use a business card
Quoted from Boat:Nice pickup! No payem usually means you need to add a credit to play, if it repeats over and over it could be a few things. I’ll check the fuses on my game tomorrow morning if no one else can. It is normal to have some not used cables. I’ll get some photos as well.
Cool, I haven’t been able to add credits either, so hoping that’s either a wire disconnect or a fuse too. Unfortunately I’m about to go on vacay with the family, so working on it as much as possible before then haha. Just says the no pay’em once, so will take as a good sign. Thanks for fuse help! I really only see in the manual the back box fuses, so all others would help a lot!
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Clean the contacts. Use a business card
Haha, it’s a maybe, I really want to try out the game, but not ruling it out. Have another person messaging me about it, so feel free to PM me and let’s stay connected while I figure this stuff out.
Quoted from Tinnhound:If you don't want to keep it, I'll buy it
Haha, it’s a maybe, I really want to try out the game, but not ruling it out. Have another person messaging me about it too, so feel free to PM me and let’s stay connected while I figure this stuff out.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Hey all,
I’m in the club! Just need to decide if this game is a keeper, but to do that, I have some fixing to do. I can’t get into the backbox, waiting for torx security screwdrivers to get here. Hoping those fuses are the reason the backbox doesn’t work. Lights up, Crypt Keeper yells out “No Pay-n no game” but can’t start a game.
Until I can get to the backbox, help! The board in the cab near the left flipper only has 2 fuses, with third spot empty. I don’t see the value for any of these or the board further down the wall in the manual or online anywhere. Can someone list those out for me so I can make sure they’re all correct? Also, on the same 3-fuse board, there is a two prong header that I don’t see a wire IDC for. One of the pins looks burned on it (pictured below) so it must have been used at one point.
Also, there are a lot of wire endings in this one that don’t seem to have a home ... is that normal?
Crazy nice playfield on this one, no damage around creature feature hole, cabinet and playfield art as well as shooter lane looks amazing! Never played this one, but might quickly get the updated code for it anyway. Was a great addition to my Hook.
Anyway, more pics of empty wires below.
Nice find, the RIP scoop hole is in amazing shape on your TFTC. The only time I have seen the RIP scoop hole this nice is on an NOS TFTC playfield.
This game has grown in popularity over the past 3-4 years and finding one with an RIP scoop hole in this nice of condition is a very tall order indeed. If the cabinet on your game is as nice as the playfield this will be an easy flip for you as folks will be lining up for it.
Be sure to install a Mantis protector on that RIP scoop hole to keep it looking nice.
https://mantispinball.com/product/tales-from-the-crypt-hole-protector/
Gord
I just finished restoring my Tales From The Crypt. This was a nice mostly home use machine when I got it that hadn't had the glass off in many years and just needed a good going through. Everything came off of the playfield. Every mech under the playfield was removed, cleaned and rebuilt with all new coil tubes and flipper rebuild kits. LEd's were added, soft white behind the translite, cool white for GI, and inserts were all color matched to deepen the insert color. GImaestro board was added so no more flasher relay clicking noise. ColorDMD was added, topper was hand painted and Crypt character was installed next to it. Ramps, wireforms, and all metal bits on top of playfield were bright buffed. Playfield was also buffed before ten coats of wax were applied. Mirror blades were installed and new playfield glass tops it all off. Picture album is here. enjoy:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157669310775897
Calgary, AB
Ok tic here we go.. all your loose connectors look fine. Don’t plug them in.. mine are loomed up either in the coin door or similar areas with yours.
Fuses for my shaker motor board
F1: 2.5 amp.. looks like a fast blow edit; some guys online say you don’t need this fuse
F2: 2.5 amp slow blow
F3: 2.5 amp slow blow
I didn’t even know they made 2.5 amp fuses..
Also get the code update.
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Quoted from GRB1959:Nice find, the RIP scoop hole is in amazing shape on your TFTC. The only time I have seen the RIP scoop hole this nice is on an NOS TFTC playfield.
This game has grown in popularity over the past 3-4 years and finding one with an RIP scoop hole in this nice of condition is a very tall order indeed. If the cabinet on your game is as nice as the playfield this will be an easy flip for you as folks will be lining up for it.
Be sure to install a Mantis protector on that RIP scoop hole to keep it looking nice.
https://mantispinball.com/product/tales-from-the-crypt-hole-protector/
Gord
Interesting, I’ll check out the protector for sure! Story is that this is HUO, and I’m the third owner. Good guy I got it from, but not a collector, I think it fell into his lap. But looked like low plays and untouched for a long time since he had it for at least 13 years.
Mantis protector, I’ll check it out. After reading through the club forum some more, there are some awesome mods out there for this
Quoted from Boat:Sorry, missed a few posts, I’ll check the flipper board fuses and the credit add wiring shortly
Flipper boards look like 3amp. Coin add switches
Go to the main harness coming from the door.
On, cool, so the first board with the three are all 2.5, and one is a fast blow, and the 5 or so in the other, is that the one you are saying is all 3amp? Half was down the same wall in the cab?
Quoted from Pinballmike217:I just finished restoring my Tales From The Crypt. This was a nice mostly home use machine when I got it that hadn't had the glass off in many years and just needed a good going through. Everything came off of the playfield. Every mech under the playfield was removed, cleaned and rebuilt with all new coil tubes and flipper rebuild kits. LEd's were added, soft white behind the translite, cool white for GI, and inserts were all color matched to deepen the insert color. GImaestro board was added so no more flasher relay clicking noise. ColorDMD was added, topper was hand painted and Crypt character was installed next to it. Ramps, wireforms, and all metal bits on top of playfield were bright buffed. Playfield was also buffed before ten coats of wax were applied. Mirror blades were installed and new playfield glass tops it all off. Picture album is here. enjoy:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157669310775897
Hi Mike,
Nice job on your TFTC. It looks really nice.
It is good to finally see TFTC getting some love on Pinside. This is a really fun game with an excellent theme. I know some folks hate the Crypt Keeper's cackle, but I love it.
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:Hi Mike,
Nice job on your TFTC. It looks really nice.
It is good to finally see TFTC getting some love on Pinside. This is a really fun game with an excellent theme. I know some folks hate the Crypt Keeper's cackle, but I love it.
Gord
And the cackle is minimized with the latest code. If it still bothers anyone on the latest code, a Pinsound can completely eliminate it!
Quoted from TicTacSeth:On, cool, so the first board with the three are all 2.5, and one is a fast blow, and the 5 or so in the other, is that the one you are saying is all 3amp? Half was down the same wall in the cab?
Yup for the first Board. That’s a shaker board. The fuses are labelled f1,2,3 on it.
Yup, for the other board. I couldn’t check them all because the fuse holders look too weak to remove all the fuses and look but they look the same.
Quoted from Boat:Yup for the first Board. That’s a shaker board. The fuses are labelled f1,2,3 on it.
Yup, for the other board. I couldn’t check them all because the fuse holders look too weak to remove all the fuses and look but they look the same.
Awesome, thanks Boat! I just went on vacay, so now it kills me that I can’t check until August! Haha
Joined the club a couple weeks ago. My machine had an unused package of all of the cliffy protectors. I’m inclined to keep the 3 gates, just in case. However, my machine already had the scoop installed and I’d be willing to part with it. Brand new and unused. Pm me if interested.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:For those that need scorecards
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome!
Quoted from ImNotNorm:For those that need scorecards
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here is another set of scorecards that are available from the following URL.
http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=crypt
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:Here is another set of scorecards that are available from the following URL.
http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=crypt
Gord
[quoted image]
Right on Gord. How's that mantis scoop holding up?
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Right on Gord. How's that mantis scoop holding up?
The Mantis scoop protector is still keeping the RIP scoop hole in pristine condition.
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:The Mantis scoop protector is still keeping the RIP scoop hole in pristine condition.
Gord
So is the Mantis protector better that a full cliffy protector?
Quoted from TicTacSeth:So is the Mantis protector better that a full cliffy protector?
I have the mantis protector and it allows the game to be played without any interference at the scoop. Don't get me wrong Cliffy makes some great protectors, I have them on my other games but some games lend themselves to a different approach. I for one think its great to have alternatives.As others have said in this thread the cliffy does get in the way on a soft shot and prevents the ball from falling in. Cheers.
Quoted from mymalibu:I have the mantis protector and it allows the game to be played without any interference at the scoop. Don't get me wrong Cliffy makes some great protectors, I have them on my other games but some games lend themselves to a different approach. I for one think its great to have alternatives.As others have said in this thread the cliffy does get in the way on a soft shot and prevents the ball from falling in. Cheers.
Obviously if there's no scoop wear go for the Mantis. If scoop wear is minor to medium ask Cliff to make you a narrow version of the protector, it interferes far less. Thats what I did. It's common knowledge that the scoop as manufactured is geometrically off from John Borg's original schematic, so this shot is a pain in the tail unfair regardless.
IMG_20180730_114403 (resized).jpg
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Obviously if there's no scoop wear go for the Mantis. If scoop wear is minor to medium ask Cliff to make you a narrow version of the protector, it interferes far less. Thats what I did. It's common knowledge that the scoop as manufactured is geometrically off from John Borg's original schematic, so this shot is a pain in the tail unfair regardless.
[quoted image]
True that, I have very minimal scoop wear...
Looking to buy those plastics over the drop targets. Mine are shot and it bugs me.
Nos or repro or used doesn't matter.
Quoted from mymalibu:True that, I have very minimal scoop wear...
Unusual turn of events here. Turns out my sample/prototype game's scoop is slightly longer than production, so the slim cliffy, being too short in length, collapsed inwards. Ended up using miniwax wood filler, a touch of touch-up ink and mylar and rebuilt the damaged area. Hope to put in a replacement soon- I sent Cliff a trace of the larger scoop hole.
Screenshot_20180801-091153~2 (resized).png
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Crappy ... in into the back now ... battery damage!!! [quoted image]
Those are some old batteries!!
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Crappy ... in into the back now ... battery damage!!!
Jan 97, they've been in there awhile...
Is my best option finding a rottendog? Haven’t had to purchase a board yet .... haha
Also gonna NvRAM it
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Is my best option finding a rottendog? Haven’t had to purchase a board yet .... haha
Also gonna NvRAM it
Send pics of the damaged areas to Clive @ CoinOp Cauldron. He’ll let you know if it’s salvagable. I would guess about $100 to repair it. The downside to Clive is the wait time ~ 3 months.
Allan Davidson in MA is excellent for board repair. Fast turnaround and fair prices. I wouldn't use anyone else. http://www.ardvarkpr.com/
Göteborg
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:Just added Marv. Looks awsome. Crazy time consuming job!!
I also added the electric chair switch just above the right ramp. It uses the actual LED. This one was easy
Great addition!
[quoted image]
This might be major grave digging (pun intended) I just bought the Marv from Sin City electric chair toy. I wonder if there is any guide on how to add it to the game? Is it possible to hook the light/shakermotor in the toy in to the pinball. I would like it to go crazy during the Electric chair mode. I guess it would need to be hooked to one of the flashers but I guess the current would burn the toy.
Quoted from Damonator:Send pics of the damaged areas to Clive @ CoinOp Cauldron. He’ll let you know if it’s salvagable. I would guess about $100 to repair it. The downside to Clive is the wait time ~ 3 months.
Quoted from Pinballmike217:Allan Davidson in MA is excellent for board repair. Fast turnaround and fair prices. I wouldn't use anyone else. http://www.ardvarkpr.com/
I just messaged out to Clive and Allen, we’ll see what they say! Two others I have done work with before said it’s gone, get a Rottendog haha 
Quoted from Damonator:Send pics of the damaged areas to Clive @ CoinOp Cauldron. He’ll let you know if it’s salvagable. I would guess about $100 to repair it. The downside to Clive is the wait time ~ 3 months.
I got tired of sending boards out for repair only to have something pop up later on the same boards and cost more time and $$$
If there is a repro board out there buy it and save yourself tons of headaches, and sell the damaged board on ebay for $100 with pics and good honest description, let someone else go through the hassles.
Finished my scoop repair, painted mylared and added a mantis protector. Unfortunately, some of the fill isn't holding up to ball travel. Anyone have any suggestions? A cliffy was actually my first choice but it didn't fit due to the post placements being slightly different on my sample game.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Finished my scoop repair, painted mylared and added a mantis protector. Unfortunately, some of the fill isn't holding up to ball travel. Anyone have any suggestions? A cliffy was actually my first choice but it didn't fit due to the post placements being slightly different on my sample game.
[quoted image]
Looks good!
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Looks good!
Did you ask Cliffy if he could make you a custom protector if you send him a template?
What did you use for fill? Funny enough I just installed mine. Had to immediately bend up the right side. It’s too low as it is. Gord did the same to his. Is there a way to get the right side metal machined a bit higher like the left?
Quoted from Boat:What did you use for fill? Funny enough I just installed mine. Had to immediately bend up the right side. It’s too low as it is. Gord did the same to his. Is there a way to get the right side metal machined a bit higher like the left?
I used JBWeld qwikwood wood epoxy stick. Actually, since my last post I filled it up above the metal as well- in so doing I created kind of a seamless diagonal lip into the protector/scoop. Really had to pack the epoxy in there, I don't think I realized how deep the wear went in this area until I really started compressing the epoxy into the right side. I then sanded it down and have put a number of plays on it this morning. Seems to play a lot better so far.
Quoted from Pinballmike217:Did you ask Cliffy if he could make you a custom protector if you send him a template?
I'm tabling the cliffy approach till I rule out the Qwikwood/Mantis/mylar Plan B. If it works, its probably the better game play way to go- even if the slim cliffy looks more 'factory' from close up and has minimal impact on ball travel.
Quoted from Boat:Cool, glad you found a solution. The only other thing I recommend is clear coat. I actually use my wife's clear coat nail polish. Not sure how it would hold up but it definitely protects the paint.
I went with the mylar instead because of the reversibility. If I clear it's harder to reverse if I win the lottery and can commission a full restore 
The official verdict from all parties is ... the board is shot, buy a Rottendog. Haha
All good, but I won’t be able to do it right away, so I guess the game will sit for a bit 
Well, turns out the epoxy wood putty "fill bridge" method from the playfield to on top of the edge of the Mantis doesn't work. The ball obliterated it over time.
Ended up talking to Gord about adjusting the protector. Refilled the epoxy, then manually bent the right side up to cover the usual suspect area. Very little fill is now exposed to ball play.
Hopefully my third time at this evil scoop repair will be the charm.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Well, turns out the epoxy wood putty "fill bridge" method from the playfield to on top of the edge of the Mantis doesn't work. The ball obliterated it over time.
Ended up talking to Gord about adjusting the protector. Refilled the epoxy, then manually bent the right side up to cover the usual suspect area. Very little fill is now exposed to ball play.
Hopefully my third time at this evil scoop repair will be the charm.
[quoted image]
Thanks, Definitely not buying that Mantis thing....Cliffy it is
Quoted from Irishbastard:Thanks, Definitely not buying that Mantis thing....Cliffy it is
I've got a Cliffy on mine and have never had it interfere with ball movement. If your hole is really chewed up then Cliffy does recommend rebuilding the hole before installation in order to provide a solid foundation and completely support the protector. The repair doesn't have to be pretty since you will be covering it up.
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