As with any DE pin - the weak link is the power supply board - give it a good looking over for repair work - burnt connectors, etc. Check the MPU for battery damage - DE MPU's are the easiest pins in the world to NVRAM - so battery damage is just ridiculously avoidable....super VUK - agree with - that was a problem area for my TFTC - easy to adjust/rebuild...check to see if it has the latest ROM's - easy to swap either way - but a vast improvement in game play with them....make sure the tombstone is working well, check for playfield wear around the scoop/pop bumpers....the usual fare...

I joined the club this past weekend with a light project TFTC. It's currently running the 2.0 code and I'd like to update it to the 4.0 custom code. I've downloaded the 4.0 files from pinballcode.com but the instructions say you have to use an IPS Patch program to get the final file to put on the EPROMs. I don't have access to a Windows PC to run that program. I do have a friend that can burn ROM images but he has not used the IPS Patch program either. Does anyone have the final 4.0 images or know where I can download it from?
Thanks!

Added over 6 years ago: Edit: a friend was able to burn the 4.0 roms for me. What a great upgrade!

Got my first pin and what do you know. Tales from the crypt. Love the game but am having all kinds of issues and with this being my first pin I know next to nothing. Hoping there are some enthusiast of this machine who know it inside and out to learn from on this board. I'd like to become an expert at both repairs and gameplay. Childhood dream.

Just to clarify some issues I'm having:

-flippers don't work but show up proper in switch test. Same with the plunger. Flippers will activated the kicker behind the tomb Stone to rise and lower slowly if held in. We think we traced it to a bridge rectifier bad in the negatives.

- right flipper extends further/too far when the flipper is working.

- I believe the mylar is causing the ball to do funny things as in slow direction change or change direction. Table is leveled and ball only does so with the mylar.

- speakers have a crackling in them when ever any sounds starts to come out. Only happened when I unplugged and replugged in some connectors on the back of the dot matrix and sound board.

I'm sure there are a few more issues but that's all I can think of for right now. Have been able to figure out a few things on my own but a little stuck with the flipper issue. Also tend to hear no payum no gameum all the time even on free play. Could hit menu button or flippers or what ever. It's non stop.

What to become an expert at trouble shooting. Would appreciate any advice.

Can you explain the tombstone issue more? Also the other issues aren’t specifically TFTC related so you have more luck posting on a generic tech sub forum. Also, welcome to the club dude!

Also.. hey crew, could someone snap some photos of their drop target mechs? I disassembled mine and put it back together but I think I did it wrong. A few angles of the mech with close ups would be awesome!

Added over 6 years ago: Edit: Figured it out... take pictures people!

Thanks boat! Appreciate it and thanks for taking the time to ask. Here is best description I can give. If you need more info let me know.

- flippers do not flip when button is hit. Instead the kicker behind the tombstone moves up and down slowly and only when the buttons are held down.

- switch tests were done and all came back verifying I was hitting the flippers so it seems to not be a wiring issue.

- diode test was done on the bridge rectifier and we found out negative numbers seemed to be off.

-other issues happened before this where the game was still playable and it was more small potatoes. Not directly related to the flippers. Ex. One of the switches that showed on the diagram as not being active would show on switch test that it was active when first turning on switch test.

I am having other issues as well but I'm wondering if it is the rectifier how many other issues will be corrected by getting a new one. Has anyone else had similar issues? I am completely new. This is my first pin. Done quite a bit of simple work to it already like adjusting switches, changing resting flipper position, changing the power plug connector out for one with a ground. Nothing much beyond that though and I have super big ambitions on learning this stuff

Game history may help others solve your issues...

Did you buy it at a garage sale? An auction? A bar or other location? Another collector? An operator who had it on route?
A previous owner not doing regular maintenance/checkups or not knowing how to fix pinballs could lead to anything from stuck coils to bad rewiring 'fixes'.
Actually if you don't mind saying how much you paid for it, a low sale price could also imply 'problems'.

For a first time owner dmd games can be a pain, I stuck with easier to work on solid state games for several years before jumping into dmds!

Don't mind at all. Got it for 3k on this site from a guy named gwaxt72. Doesn't look like his account is active any more but he seemed to check out. Had sold allot of pins on here. Said he ran a business doing it fixing them up then selling them so they could buy ones they wanted. He shopped and and added led lights for the extra 200 bucks. Thanks for taking time to help miracleman

Before I fixed the leafs on allot of the switches I did have some overactive switches and I am pretty sure I saw some smoke up on the upper right of the play field. Right at the loop where the spinner is at roughly. This seemed to stop after the leafs were fixed.

It sounds like a lot of issues for a first pin and unfortunately multiple issues don't help a beginner diagnose and resolve them easily.

Sounds like some voltage/power issues and possibly some messed up wiring.

To your question about the bridge rectifiers, definitely yes, start with the cheapest resolutions/fixes first then go on to the more expensive stuff. Depending on how hacked up the board is you might have luck picking up a rotten dog or xpin power board.

let me know if you need any photos of anything.

The board looks like it may have a burned run in it but the game functioned pretty well for a while. I'm ok with a lot of issues but like you said it might not help me learn because of over load. I'll let you know the results when I get the rectifier fixed.

Found the original ad...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-tales-from-the-crypt-12

For starters all the pics from this seller were ALL blurry, which is pretty odd from an experienced seller.
uh-oh, found this thread...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wheres-rob-at-rockland-pinball#post-3724013

A TFTC for 3K should have been 100% shopped, LED'd and 100% working, pretty much mint!
I think you paid $1500 too much for a game that has these issues and 'smoke' coming out from underneath the pf.

Hmm yeah I am completely brand new so I do not know what I am looking for. I saw how much lower the price was than the people who restore and sell online so I thought I was getting a great deal. Looks like I have quite a bit to learn.

Game was working when I bought it except one of the flippers were too high and they didn't adjust switches after installing new rubbers. Maybe I shouldn't have told them I was new in the scene . Either way not totally upset. I feel that would just deter me from my mission to become better at everything pinball. Just learn from it and see if I can get this thing going. Maybe I'll do some digging to find some reading on questions to ask when buying a pin. I can't physically see one when I buy it because there are no sellers in my area. Shipping is my only option.

There are a lot of pinball collectors/sellers in Florida, most of them can be found on this Florida forum, sign up to see pics...

http://www.villagebbs.com/forum/index.php#c7

There are several pinball arcade-bars in the state as well, including Replay Amusement Museum in Tarpon Springs near Tampa.
They might have techs who fix games on the side.

https://www.facebook.com/replaymuseum/

If you have time this weekend there is the Freeplay Florida arcade/pinball show Fri/Sat/Sun here in Orlando, worth the trip.
They have games for sale that you can check out in person.

http://freeplayflorida.com/

A good friend of mine runs the two Pinball Lounge arcade locations in town and does game sales/repair.

https://www.facebook.com/thepinballlounge/

So, with your TFTC it seems like you are on a long learning curve if you fix it yourself, I would try to find a closer repair person to fix it so it's running 100%.
You'll learn other things as they break over time, and they will.

Rob's a good guy, but he runs a bar in NYC and his attention is pretty much focused on that full-time now. Sounds like maybe they missed something. If you can find a way to get in touch with him (post a forum topic) he may be able to reach out. This would really suck as a first buying experience, but it's definitely NOT a bad thing to learn to fix your games a bit. I'll buy it off you right now if you want to sell

Miricaleman appreciate all the resources. I'll look into them. I work about 70 hours a week so I don't get too much time to travel to Orlando or Tampa. Sometimes on Sunday but wife usually likes to get in what little time she can. Might be what I have to do though and just be super patient.

Rdoyle if I had one to take it's place I might. Wasn't exactly the first pin I wanted but the price was right. I love the game but there is a title or two I am after more so.

Spill it, man! I'll be in Tampa next week; there's loads of games you can go in for around that same price

Does anyone make the cabinet decals in the US? Every set I could find is over sea's.

I do not believe that TFTC cabinet decal sets are available from a US based vendor. The TFTC cabinet decals from RR are actually of pretty nice quality.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/tales-from-the-crypt-pinball-cabinet-decals/

Gord

Has anyone ever formally or informally produced an air ball guard for this game? Despite my game being on the lowest 'coil pulse' in the adjustments, on rare occasions, I get an air ball off the drop targets.

I actually made one a few days ago. Zero airballs since.

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That looks pretty sweet. Simple and easy solution

You have an extra one you'd sell? I'd install that on my TFTC in a heartbeat.

Ditto, I sometimes get a ball stuck in the plastics by the tombstone because of the “chop” drops.

Nice fix. Would buy.

Same!

If my original message didn't clarify this enough, COUNT ME IN!

I would also buy one

Also, has anyone added a headphone control mod to their TFTC?

I'd LOVE to add this feature, but don't see DE supported by most of the usual suspects, except for Pinsound. Just not sure if $370+ is what I want to spend to accomplish this right now.

Wow. I've had quite a few PMs with people wanting this. I didn't realize people would be interested in buying this airball protector. Let me look into it this weekend and I'll let you guys know. I don't see why I couldn't make a small batch of them.

Enjoy the holiday!

Awesome Jake!! Thanks and happy thanksgiving!!

Anyone try replacing the two rubber rings behind the guillotine drop targets with a flipper rubber?

I had two rubber rings there and one snapped....causing the ball to get stuck. Ended up replacing the two rings with one flipper ring.

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Reporting back in. I was able to desolder and install my new bridge rectifier. I feel pretty damn good about that for a first soldering project. Reads perfect on the multimeter. However, my problem still persists. Everything seems to work MUCH stronger than before, but still no action from the flippers or plunger. The search moves on. Was thinking about selling it but I don't feel ready to be down for the count yet.

So, I was able to make a few of these over the weekend. After factoring in parts, my time and shipping costs I'm thinking this will be $13 shipped anywhere in the US. Since international shipping fluctuates so much depending your location, PM me with your international shipping address and I'll get you a quote.

Now, just so everyone is aware...I don't have any laser cutting machinery to get perfect edges on these protectors. I cut and shape them all by hand so please keep that in mind. I think they still look good and they will definitely stop those crazy TFTC airballs.

-Jake

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It looks like you're missing the small wire guide in-between the posts. Check my pictures a few comments above. Having that in place would definitely stop the ball from getting stuck there. Flipper rubber looks like it'll do the trick too though.

I never noticed the metal wire missing on mine. Shucks....good eye!

They look great!! PM'd you with my Canadian shipping information.

Hey fright fans... lately I’ve been playing some higher quality pins.. (don’t get me wrong tales is awesome but it has its design flaws) and I noticed pins like mmr, simpsons op, Spider-Man, all have a way to control the ball as it comes down from the right orbit.

Simpsons does this to help control the ball to setup the upper flipper shot, same with spider man. Mmr does the same with a one way mini wire form. Anyways.. so I noticed on my tftc when the ball comes down from the orbit on the right or out of the upkicker into the right orbit, the ball comes off the side rail and makes it difficult for your upper flipper shot..

Luckily the previous owner of my Tspp Pinball party set me up with some spare plastics.. I put one on my tales and it fixed the problem.

Is this a problem for anyone else?

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No problems here. The ball runs along the side rail....through the spinner and onto the upper right flipper. Never leaving the rail. Could the right orbit spinner be causing the ball the come off the rail?

What about when it comes from the upkicker into the right orbit? Most of my problem is when the ball is coming back down from the right orbit.

It might be the leveling/rails/clear coat causing problems just for me.. I also noticed my orbit switch is quite stiff.

I concur with THM in that the ball runs along the right orbit ball guide whether from a full orbit shot from the left orbit or when the right-side VUK drops the ball near the top of the right orbit. On my TFTC the ball always drops to the right flipper after completing an orbit down the right orbit.

It sounds like your TFTC may not be leveled correctly. Check to see if the leg levelers are set too high on the right side (especially on the the back right leg) which would likely cause balls dropped from the VUK to drift back towards the middle of the playfield.

Also be sure to check that the wireform for the right-side VUK is aligned correctly so that it drops the ball into the right orbit and not off of the right orbit ball guide which would cause the ball to ricochet away from the right orbit ball guide.

Gord

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Thanks GRB, Might be the wire form on the vuk.. good suggestion

Yea, good suggestion on the VUK wireform GRB1959 .....that didn't even cross my mind.

This weekend I received and installed Jake's air ball guard. It looks nice, performs great and has transformed the game for me. His packaging and instructions were perfect.

Prior to this, I found myself avoiding the drops due to the crazy ricochet air balls. Now, I can attack the drops with no hesitation and full confidence. Today I threw a lot at them with repeated direct shots and only experienced one crazy freak air ball that I believe hit a post in a weird way after the drops.

I actually wired up a small 5 SMD red strip, wired from underneath the PF, and shine blood red under the top skill shot plastic for now and I like it better. Still configuring the setup, and need to tuck that wire in from the LED strip I see...

THANK YOU JAKE!!!!!!

Lastly, does anyone know what the metal cap size that fits into that small hole towards the front of the skill shot plastic is?

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So there's no way to keep that light in between the plastics if you install the air-ball guard? There's no room whatsoever?

Not a big deal really....a small sacrifice to get rid of air balls.

Actually, you can fit a bulb in there. I forgot that my problem was that my light socket was originally attached under the plastic somehow and the new air ball guard covered the fastening point in which that socket stayed in place. I see now those bulbs are usually fastened from above at that hole on the front of the top skill shot plastic. You might be able to squeeze it in just fine.

I just never liked being able to see that bulb and it's hardware. Which is why I went with the LED strip to hide it and get a more even glow underneath.

I'm glad you like it Dave. As for the light between the plastics, I looked on mine and I don't see why the light still couldn't fit under there. It might be a tight squeeze, but it should fit. Whoever had the game before me has that light pointing at the electric chair spinner, which I like. I'll probably take your approach and put a small led strip under the plastic once I shop out the game this winter.

Hey guys, here is my "Tales" of woe....

A few months ago a new problem creeped up. What happens is when the ball drains, the game still thinks it is in play. All the trough switches tested fine in diagnostics. After a few ball searches the game puts a ball in the shooter lane and fires. When that one drains, the game proceeds to the next ball. I replaced the far left trough switch (P/N 180-5119-00) anyway. No change. It's not the MPU. I have the original and a Rottendog back-up with the latest and the next to latest chips. With either MPU there is no change. I've reseated all the connectors, etc, etc, etc. I'm at a loss here. Just when I think I've got the game playing 100%, it throws another curve ball at me. Anybody seen this problem before? Thanks.

I had the same problem. I had to replaced all the ball trough switches and diodes. All of my switches also worked in test. My problem was the switches were bent just enough that when the ball would drain it would not allow all of the balls to align properly. I would notice after the ball search the coil in the kick out would fire and roll the balls just far enough. Forward that it would register and kick out a ball or I would push it with my finger after the drain. Funny thing my switches physically looked fine but, when I started to unbolt them 3 of the 6 just crumbled apart. It sucked replacing them, I also did the same to my Jurassic Park and never had a single problem since.