(Topic ID: 88044)

TFTC - 3 solenoids not firing. FIXED

By Harvs

10 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by dothedoo
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

Well after a recent LED bulb swap, I lowered the PF and I think the far back right solenoid touched the metal rail. Yes, it was ON The far back right solenoid, the Crypt solenoid and the shooter solenoid do not fire. The machine functioned flawlessly until I lifted and lowered the PITA PF. (This machine has the Rottendog? board if that matters)

-Does anyone know how these 3 solenoids are connected, like to a certain fuse or ?

I have tested the fuses in the backbox and inside the cab, all check out fine.

Everything other then those 3 solenoids functions properly (Flippers, lights, sound, drop targets, etc). But it's obviously unplayable seeing it can't fire.

Excuse my Noob lingo, and thanks for any help.

Harvs

#3 10 years ago

Ok.. I tested all the power to each of the 3 solenoids, transistors (including Q29) that I read controls the solenoids in question (Thx for the link Jetzxi). Tested every fuse out of the machine. All check out fine..

I did notice this (see pic) while reading through the schematics. Does this look blown to you(s)? And does the 'Non-Reflexive Solenoid Control' even control the 3 solenoids that are out or have anything to do with them?

Top VUK, Left VUK, and Ball launch do not work. - The kicker and scoop( next to the left ramp) work in both diagnostics and game play.)

Any tip on the name of that thingy in the pic?, So I know what to buy or explain to a tech if it's the cause.

I don't think duct tape is gonna fix this one............................... Any techs in northeast most part of Illinois wanna make a few bucks?

Thanks!

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#4 10 years ago

Fixed. After reading and basically taking a 12hr crash course in pinball repair I figured it out.

Looking at the connector pictured before removing it, it was hard to tell it was damaged., It basically looks like the rest of the connectors (brownish, old etc). Once I removed it from the board it basically cracked where the wire had gotten so hot. I snipped the 'burnt' part of the wire off and reconnected it, it worked! I do plan on buying a whole new set of connectors for them.., but glad it is working now.

Thanks to those that sent me links to read up on, and sorry for all the panicked noob questions.

Happy Easter!

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#6 10 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Unless you're a purist, go with the Molex crimp style and trifurcon pins instead of the IDC that's in there now.

Will do. - Any recommendations on where to buy those online? Thanks for the tip.

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