(Topic ID: 226962)

Testing output on Transformer ( dumb I know )

By MartinKettering

3 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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transformer (resized).JPG
trnsformer (resized).jpg

#1 3 years ago

Hi,

Please forgive my ignorance, I have a lighting fault and the only common place that both light faults meet is at the transformer itself. I have cleaned and checked continuity ect, cleaned connection, checked fuses.
I want to test to see if I am getting 6 volt out of the transformer. I have googled loads of videos, but I need a very basic " Put your multimeter black to this poit, and the red to this point " instruction.
Also ( Its a gotlieb ) would it be 6v DC or AC ?
Thanks for any help you can give this newbie.

#2 3 years ago

Which game is it? There are some differences, especially between Gottlieb EMs and solid state games. I can give you more precise info on Gottlieb System 3 games, as I have Cue Ball Wizard and the documentation for it.

#3 3 years ago

Hi,
Thanks for getting back to me.
Its actually a Nordamatic " Champ " game based on the Gotlieb 300 I think.

#4 3 years ago

Transformers always output ac. Do you have a picture of it, or the schematics?
What do you mean by lighting fault?

#5 3 years ago

Hi,

As posted elsewhere ( dont want to flood ) , The feature light ( special, WOW, X ) symbols do not light on the play surface, and there is no lighting at all in the read box. I only brought this weekend as a project, so am feeling my way a bit and learning from you guys here. The only common denominator is that both fuses for the box light and play surface run off the same tab on the transformer. I have cleaned and continuity tested every plug and socket, so this is now my starting point. I know which one is the 6v output, so I can put my multimeter to this ( red ), but where would I put my other connection to get a reading?
Thanks for your responses.

I have added a stock picture offline, my one looks identical.

trnsformer (resized).jpg
#6 3 years ago

# Read box ~ Top light box #

#7 3 years ago

The 'common' would be the other lug to measure.

But if any of your lights work at all, then the transformer must be putting out the proper voltage.

#8 3 years ago

Hi,

I will test it and come back to you, at least its a logical starting point for me, thanks for your help.

#9 3 years ago

Hi,

I have attached a picture of my actual transformer, do I test between lug showing "5" at the top and "COM " at the bottom?

thanks

transformer (resized).JPG
#10 3 years ago

Transformers rarely fail, they have no moving parts. It does happen, the one in my HVAC failed earlier this year so it can happen but in most cases the issue is usually elsewhere.

On a side note, do you know why transformers hum?
.
.
.
.
.
..
...

Because they don't know the words.

#11 3 years ago

LOL,

Hmmmmm, someone has said as there are " some " lights working then the transformer is probably ok. The " Tilt " sign illuminates on power on, then goes off when a game is started, so no lights in the top box and no special feature lights on the play field at all. Its baffling me!

-1
#12 3 years ago

Dirty contact somewhere in the machine? Or dirty/loose fuse clip. Dirt/corrosion on Jones plugs. Could be dozens of things.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from MartinKettering:

Hi,
I have attached a picture of my actual transformer, do I test between lug showing "5" at the top and "COM " at the bottom?
thanks
[quoted image]

Are you meant to be running on 240volts because that's what it looks like in you picture?

#14 3 years ago

Hi,

Yes I am in the UK, so 240v is what we have. I have cleaned so many contacts and resoldered so many joints, it really is a needle in a haystack. I was hoping this restoration would have been more a cosmetic issue .... but I am learning more everyday thanks to you guys.

#15 3 years ago

Hi,

Found the issue, the first thing I tested ... The fuse!. It would give continuity when being tested as there was pressure each end, when in the holder it would break connection, must be 1000's of a mm broken inside under the cap one end. Put some 15amp fuse wire in, BINGO, like a Christmas tree!!!!
Thanks for all your help guys, at least I know all the connections are good everywhere else.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from MartinKettering:

Hi,
Found the issue, the first thing I tested ... The fuse!. It would give continuity when being tested as there was pressure each end, when in the holder it would break connection, must be 1000's of a mm broken inside under the cap one end. Put some 15amp fuse wire in, BINGO, like a Christmas tree!!!!
Thanks for all your help guys, at least I know all the connections are good everywhere else.

You found rule #1 - always pull a fuse to test it.

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