I agree I don't think bondo is good on playfields either. Well it might be OK if it's in a non ball wearing spot. But it's just not for any high wear spots because it cracks and chips easily. So I'm with Neo on this, what he uses is good. I don't know who suggested to use bondo on a playfield, but I would really look back at that advice and Pass on that source. Bondo is easy to work with, but I just don't think it's good for high wear areas. Remember bondo's intended usage is purely cosmetic.

Put some in small jars and sell it. you could easily get your money back. Heck i would buy some. Go to Micheals and buy whatever cheap acrylic they have on sale for like 60 cents in plastic bottles. dump out the color, wash the bottle, and fill with your paint. then sell it to us suckers for $5 a bottle!

even though 2 part urethane dry from a chemical reaction, when you sand them you take off the top most area which is air exposed. the stuff underneath is always softer until about 48+ hours. At that point it's like sanding a rock though.

Also everyone should note that this game is a diamondplate playfield. meaning brushing on this type of playfield is far less risky than say a lacquer based playfield. Brushing is just going to work better on this type of playfield compared to a lacquer based playfield. That is, on a lacquer based playfield it will be more difficult to get the result shown in this thread on the black rose diamondplate playfield.

lacquer fields are just older and the film thickness of the clear is thinner. so it's just not as smooth of an initial finish, has more wear patterns and holes and marks. This means a brushed on finish won't be as nice as what you saw here with the diamondplate black rose. Doing a DP field is the best of all situations.

I do two part urethane lacquer (pre-DP) playfields all the time. it's works great. but it's just tougher to get the results gotten here with the DP black rose playfield.

i use lacquer thinner to clean my gun. i've never used it to thin urethane though...