(Topic ID: 154093)

Testing Clay's Clearcoat Brush Method (A Black Rose Resto Saga)

By pinster68

8 years ago


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  • 193 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 79 Pinsiders

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#182 8 years ago

Awesome job!

Couple of cheats I use. Did not read the whole post so disregard if previously mentioned.

I am terrible at painting. I have to mask everything. I would tape and freehand frisket. X-acto knife ooh-nooooos no more.
Now I just take some hi-res pics perpendicular to the PF. Measure the area. Go to my graphics artist guy and he vector renders the photo.
Then laser prints "stencil" decals. I prep the area. Take the decal and peel it half way off the backing and leave is sit in a clean room for about an hour. I roll the exposed decal back onto the backing and peel away the other half and leave it sit. This removes a lot of the adhesion. You can use some Fix-it spray your first few times until you are handy at placing the decals without offset or wrinkles. Then I remove half the decal and position it on the PF. Then pull the other half off and stick it. I now lay the decals down in the correct order. Paint. Peel the decal and discard it. Repeat.

I also do this "decal stenciling" when I repair scoops or other difficult areas to wood fill. I make the decal MUCH larger than the area I work on. This protects the PF from me dropping putty or tools. Someone suggested using vinyl and letting it cling to the PF but my store doesn't laser cut vinyl

I use a Pantone color wheel to match when I can't easily get the item to be painted to the store. IF you go to a paint store, go to a GOOD paint store. The equipment that matches the paint (a spectrophotometer) needs to be properly maintained and calibrated. Most places install the unit and forget it. A trained operator can "compensate" for the machine if they are worth salt. Try to find an older Pantone wheel at your local paint store. Otherwise they can be expensive.

#185 8 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

And no store will becauSe it creates clorine gas. For vinyl you will need a plotter.
Good ideas though, Ive thought of doing something similar.

Most new lasers incorporate vacuum removal of gasses and dust.

Quoted from cosmokramer:

Any chance you could post some photos of this process?

Next machine I do. I will. Was hoping CPR was going to get going on the Space Invader Playfield. IF not then that's next.

Milton

#187 8 years ago

Not to disagree but I cut Vinyl a lot. It's a fibre laser. No contamination. And for the record a lot of the types of steel that is cut with the laser is also toxic. I do this for a living. 29 years.
Milt

#188 8 years ago

Here's a really good example of how a laser can be set to cut vinyl.

1 month later
#192 7 years ago

Go for laser safe vinyl.
It can be mylar.
It can be 3m decal magic paper.
The point is you get perfect lines.

And for the record you can't get near the vapors. The machine is completely sealed.
More for light radiation than vapors. They don't care if you eventually die but you can't run the machine blind. And like I said I'm pretty much an expert on lasers.

Milton

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