Awesome job!
Couple of cheats I use. Did not read the whole post so disregard if previously mentioned.
I am terrible at painting. I have to mask everything. I would tape and freehand frisket. X-acto knife ooh-nooooos no more.
Now I just take some hi-res pics perpendicular to the PF. Measure the area. Go to my graphics artist guy and he vector renders the photo.
Then laser prints "stencil" decals. I prep the area. Take the decal and peel it half way off the backing and leave is sit in a clean room for about an hour. I roll the exposed decal back onto the backing and peel away the other half and leave it sit. This removes a lot of the adhesion. You can use some Fix-it spray your first few times until you are handy at placing the decals without offset or wrinkles. Then I remove half the decal and position it on the PF. Then pull the other half off and stick it. I now lay the decals down in the correct order. Paint. Peel the decal and discard it. Repeat.
I also do this "decal stenciling" when I repair scoops or other difficult areas to wood fill. I make the decal MUCH larger than the area I work on. This protects the PF from me dropping putty or tools. Someone suggested using vinyl and letting it cling to the PF but my store doesn't laser cut vinyl
I use a Pantone color wheel to match when I can't easily get the item to be painted to the store. IF you go to a paint store, go to a GOOD paint store. The equipment that matches the paint (a spectrophotometer) needs to be properly maintained and calibrated. Most places install the unit and forget it. A trained operator can "compensate" for the machine if they are worth salt. Try to find an older Pantone wheel at your local paint store. Otherwise they can be expensive.