(Topic ID: 252037)

Testing angle iron pf straightening on Fast Draw


By frenchmarky

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by frenchmarky
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 4 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

download (resized).jpg
634A0891-F166-44A3-87AA-2033E366DCF7 (resized).jpeg
CD3F8696-0BFC-4566-9F9C-428D246EDCB5 (resized).jpeg
A4FF7F36-5B07-48F8-BC0C-933ADBEABEF4 (resized).jpeg

#1 5 months ago

I’ve owned this Fast Draw (my fave pin of all time) for about 30 years but lately while playing I finally noticed I must have a slight horiz. pf cupping. Maybe you own a game that long and the process creeps up on you like old age. During play it’s very hard to notice but rolling the ball down by hand from the top and using a straightedge, yup it was noticeable. So I thought I’d test the angle iron method for the first time in one spot where my square iron just barely fit thru everything, and raised it up enough with spacers on the ends so it clears the screw heads on the flipper units. It works great, testing it with just this one bar and something temporary under the center as the leverage point and the issue is fixed, balls rolls nice and true. Now I’ll make the ends sturdier by using brackets with multiple screws to spread the stress and put an adjustment bolt or whatever in the middle.

Question - do I need to worry about an angle iron shorting together say, a flipper mounting bracket AND a common wire for the GI or feature lamps that is stapled to the pf, or do I need to insulate those points?

A4FF7F36-5B07-48F8-BC0C-933ADBEABEF4 (resized).jpeg
#2 5 months ago

I would play it safe and make sure that the angle you add is electrically isolated from everything.

#3 5 months ago

Okay will do, right now no problem because the bar is raised slightly above that stuff, but not by much.

#4 5 months ago

Would a thin layer of cork like on the sides of a puck bowler work?

#5 5 months ago

The holes in my bar even coincidentally mated perfectly to two of the existing pf holes for the screws that go into the rails, I mean that’s gotta be the only place on this pf where that is possible. 8()

#6 5 months ago

Cork might be a bit thick, I can raise the bar up more if needed so absolutely is not contacting at those points, and wrap those areas on the bar with electrical tape to be sure. If I raise it up too much I’ll have to adjust the right flipper EOS bracket a bit.

#7 5 months ago

Next is my Gtb. Poker Face, found this perfect spot for an iron right in the center, will need one on either end too because this one has a lot more severe cupping.

CD3F8696-0BFC-4566-9F9C-428D246EDCB5 (resized).jpeg
#8 5 months ago

I have always thought it remarkable given the weight loads on these playfields that they hold up so well for so long. I must saying during restos, when pf's are out of the machine and to avoid any undue strain, whether on a rotisserie or not, I am always conscious of the need to park the pf in a stable non threatening position.

#9 5 months ago

Buy some heat shrink in 4 foot lengths. Cut to size and shrink it over the angle iron. That will insulate it.

Don't use electrical tape. It will become sticky and gooey in a few years.

#10 5 months ago

We see fish paper used in backboxes etc to cover the ground braid in areas...

#11 5 months ago

I did something similar with a Jumping Jack I had a while ago. Definitely made it better. I agree with making extra sure it is electrically isolated from everything!

#12 5 months ago

I have owned some machines over the years from Data East that actually had angle iron installed at the factory. Notably, Laser War and Secret Service. Always found this solution interesting.

#13 5 months ago

I’ll post how the Poker Face turns out.

Added 155 days ago:

Didn’t know that about Data East games. Many games from the 60s and 70s used the standard U-channel brackets across the top of the arch, now that I think of it they were sort of angle irons that helped keep that end of the pf straight.

#14 5 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

We see fish paper used in backboxes etc to cover the ground braid in areas...

Yes, fish paper is the proper item to use in my opinion.

#15 5 months ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Yes, fish paper is the proper item to use in my opinion.

Why is it called fish paper? Is it made of blue gill?

#16 5 months ago

Had to go with three 1/2” square bars on Poker Face, ball rolls like it’s supposed to now. I am really surprised it worked on this bad one. The top bar is less wide than the pf so the ends wouldn’t hit the wood pf rails inside the cabinet. For the center one I cut notches in the rails for their ends to fit thru. I used 2” screws that go nearly all the way thru the arch and cardholder wood, or the pf side rails. Still need to reposition the wiring bundle clip screws along the top, and I had to remove one slam switch that was in the way, big deal, who needs it.
Only other game I ever had with a bad warp was a Kings & Queens but it was bowed upwards down the middle and at the time I didn’t know how to correct it because in that case you need something to pull down on the center, not just leverage against it... but I suppose that kind is easier to correct using moisture and heat since you’d apply them on the bare wood side of the pf.
634A0891-F166-44A3-87AA-2033E366DCF7 (resized).jpeg

#17 5 months ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Why is it called fish paper? Is it made of blue gill?

Some people don't like the taste of newsprint.

download (resized).jpg
#18 5 months ago

Hey Mark...Sean K here...good to hear from ya, and thanks for all the pics and examples of this. I've done this to several games over the years and I agree...it works very well.

I had a badly warped Olde King Cole PF I installed one of these on, and the pics are below. Funny thing is after I did this, the PF reacted by warping more in the middle! I installed another angle iron in the middle, and it was better, but then I found a beautiful spare PF and replaced the whole thing...figures! LOL

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qqk9UE4eL45GZYy88

#19 5 months ago

The first test on the Poker Face I only put in the center bar but no way was that going to correct the entire length. I was worried about the screws being able to hold with the pressure but after using them I am sure you couldn’t pull them out with a team of horses. Since it worked so well I may add one more bar to the FD and get it totally dialed and evened out. Funny thing is now I have to reacquaint myself with Poker Face because after so many years of it being warped, my brain is used to the ball following all the wrong paths.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 125.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Sparky Pinball
$ 200.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Maple Street Sign Shop
$ 45.00
Playfield - Plastics
Vandelay Industries
From: $ 220.00
$ 179.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Id Rather Play Pinball
$ 5,899.99
Pinball Machine
Pinball Pro
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 17.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 34.94
Playfield - Plastics
Plastic 9 for Pin-Bot Out of stock
Pinball-Mods.com
$ 25.00
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
$ 9,099.00
Pinball Machine
Little Shop Of Games
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 13.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside