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(Topic ID: 237242)

Testing a Gottlieb System 1, Gen 2 soundboard


By Jakers

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by dragon55
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 1 year ago

I’m slowly but surely bringing this Roller Disco back to life. It’s been a learning process to say the least.

I’ve got the game flipping but there is no sound. How do I test the sound board and what connections in the backbox are for the sound board? I tested the pins at the sound board connector and am not seeing much voltage on them.

#2 1 year ago

Not much love for the System 1s around here I'm finding. haha.

#3 1 year ago

Sound boards can be black boxes since they aren't documented nearly as well as the rest of the boardset.

You'll have to use the schematics to figure out what the edge connector pins are for so you can verify the voltages. It's also a good idea to check the diodes, make sure the nuts for the regulator are tight, and clean off the edge connector contacts with a pink rubber eraser.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Sound

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Multi-Mode_Sound_Board

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#sound

Unfortunately, this particular board has a fatal flaw in which the two unobtainable chips are known to go bad, so like the MPU, it tends to be a throwaway board more often than not.

There is a MIOT adapter board you can use in place of the bad chips: https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&details=1

Or, you can replace the whole thing with an aftermarket board:
https://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php (from France directly, or US suppliers like bigdaddy-enterprises.com sometimes carry them)

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Sound boards can be black boxes since they aren't documented nearly as well as the rest of the boardset.
You'll have to use the schematics to figure out what the edge connector pins are for so you can verify the voltages. It's also a good idea to check the diodes, make sure the nuts for the regulator are tight, and clean off the edge connector contacts with a pink rubber eraser.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Sound
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Multi-Mode_Sound_Board
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#sound
Unfortunately, this particular board has a fatal flaw in which the two unobtainable chips are known to go bad, so like the MPU, it tends to be a throwaway board more often than not.
There is a MIOT adapter board you can use in place of the bad chips: https://coinop.mally.eu/produkt.php?bestellnr=101647&details=1
Or, you can replace the whole thing with an aftermarket board:
https://www.flippp.fr/pifx1.php (from France directly, or US suppliers like bigdaddy-enterprises.com sometimes carry them)

Very cool, First I have heard about the system 1 sound replacement board. This is a guy that is known to straighten out manufactures short comings. I wonder if he fixed the Genie "L" to have more than one sound for almost everything you hit when playing the game? Its so lame I go with a chime unit when I shop a Genie, seems to match the theme better too.

#5 1 year ago

If it is a system 1. switch 20 (in the row of dip switches top of main board, is game sound on/off (top portion of that switch is in (depressed)), for game sound. Read the switches L to R, 1 to 8, next 8 is 16, 3rd bank of 8 is 24.

SOMETHING to NOTE, I had a problem with a game that was random game sound (some times when powered up it would work, other times it would not, HOWEVER, coin and game start sounds worked correctly regardless. (23 and 14 respectively).

TURNS OUT.... that the dipswitch leads (in the sockets) where the cause, powered off the machine, removed and re-seated each bank... "TA-DA" 100%....

Greg

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from a31ford:

If it is a system 1. switch 20 (in the row of dip switches top of main board, is game sound on/off (top portion of that switch is in (depressed)), for game sound. Read the switches L to R, 1 to 8, next 8 is 16, 3rd bank of 8 is 24.
SOMETHING to NOTE, I had a problem with a game that was random game sound (some times when powered up it would work, other times it would not, HOWEVER, coin and game start sounds worked correctly regardless. (23 and 14 respectively).
TURNS OUT.... that the dipswitch leads (in the sockets) where the cause, powered off the machine, removed and re-seated each bank... "TA-DA" 100%....
Greg

It is system 1. I've tried an original Gottlieb System 1 CPU board and a Ni Wumpf CPU board with this sound board. I get no sound using either board which leads me to believe either the sound board is dead or there is a loose connection. Can anyone confirm what connections in the backbox are for the sound board?

#7 1 year ago

Hello Jakers, see my post under dragon55 my user name, I have a 1978 Dragon and it had sound but it was continuous,, one tone and didnt stop/start. great help here from a guy in the Netherlands, any how the driver board had a bad transistor and diode. it was for the KNocker.. this all ties into a IC chip on the CPU " mother board.. A1 .. it is a 14 prong and controls all the chime sounds and some other solenoids. once i replaced the IC and transistor and diode sound is working great. PHIL... i believe my post with schematics is under early solid state post

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