(Topic ID: 140784)

TerryB's Soldering Guide

By terryb

6 years ago

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  • 392 posts
  • 82 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by pinheadpierre
  • Topic is favorited by 586 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #2 Terry discusses temperature controlled soldering stations. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #7 Maintenance of soldering tips. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #16 Types of solder, flux, and their usage. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #18 Desoldering equipment and how to use it. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #29 Maintaining your Hakko FR300 desoldering equipment. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #42 Basic lead solder safety practices for hobbyists. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Post #44 Anti-static information. Posted by terryb (6 years ago)

    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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    #39 6 years ago

    Terry, thanks for the writeup of an excellent (and much needed) guide. Wish this was available when I started soldering, and still learned some new tips and have a couple of new things on my to-buy list.

    #92 6 years ago

    Thanks again, Terry. This last post is full of great information (backed by years of experience).

    2 weeks later
    #156 6 years ago

    Wow, wow, wow. Thank you Terry!

    3 months later
    #259 5 years ago
    Quoted from mystman12:

    Okay so, I didn't realize how hard it would be to find soldering supplies. Went on a wild goose chase all night looking for solder with lead, flux, a fiberglass pen, etc.
    I finally ended up with some solder (0.062, that's a little over, but still fine right? AlphaFRY, has lead!) and some flux, but the flux is like a putty in a small container rather than a squeeze out tube.
    Couldn't find flux remover or a fiberglass pen. Are these necessary for reheating, or can I use any substitutes?

    You can also use Ebay and amazon -- Terry put links in his posts for ordering most things he lists.

    7 months later
    #312 5 years ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    I don't know how I didn't discover this thread sooner. This is a wealth of information!
    Terry, thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community in such detail, as always.

    This is one of my favorite threads of all times on pinside. So much incredible information! Thank's again Terry for all the time and effort you put into writing and sharing your knowledge and experience.

    3 months later
    #317 4 years ago

    Terry, is there a specific starter kit you'd recommend? Basically, something with a mix of common pads, traces, and accessories that will be a good starting point for common board repairs? I went through all the links above and quickly realized that I had no idea what would be a good way to start.

    #319 4 years ago

    Thanks Terry. That helps immensely. Basically, there are two options: tape and manual work, or the stuff that the pros use (or I have to do work in volume). Given that I am usually looking at doing a board here and there, I'll go with the tape and have an excuse to break out my micro-dissection tools (forceps, scissors -- I even have a dissection microscope if needed). One final thing to check. For the tape to which you linked before (http://www.tape-works.com/collections/foil-tapes/products/2mil-copper-foil-with-acrylic-adhesive), I just want to make sure that acrylic adhesive basically means that they are peel and stick.

    2 years later
    #339 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    So, I'm feeling pretty proud of myself. Forgive this post in advance, but I wanted to share.
    I've been following this thread for a while, wanting to get more into board repair. I can solder switch wires together, but touching anything on a board has always made me nervous. I've just never done it before, and I've read so many instances of people screwing up their boards.
    About a month ago, I bought a new Hakko 888 with some Christmas money, just so I would have the right equipment to start learning. I decided to try my first board repair today, a fairly simple job, but one that just a few months ago scared me out of attempting.
    The story is that I had a solenoid expander relay board on my Special Force (Bally 6803) pin that no longer functioned. It has been acting up for over a year, working intermittenly. I had suspected the solder joints, but again, I was worried about ruining my only board. I first tried to find a new one. Many months ago, I bought one but it came DOA and the vendor never answered my emails. Annoying, but no big deal, as it was only $25. All other places were out of stock so I waited. And waited. And waited. Finally, a couple of months ago, Marco had some in stock. I bought one, but when it arrived, I noticed that it was missing a jumper wire. I contacted Marco, and they took it back and gave me a replacement from another vendor they had. This took another few weeks, but I now finally had a working board, and my pin was back up and running.
    So, having a working board made me feel more comfortable experimenting with repairing my old board. If I messed up, who cared. I read many of the posts in this thread and watched several videos -- how to tin a new soldering iron, what temperature to use, how to reflow solder, etc. Today, I finally tried it out.
    I'm happy to report that I reflowed the solder on all of the pins on the board, and it completely solved the problem. It was much easier than I expected. I know this will sound simplistic to most of you, but as I said, I've never done this before, so I'm feeling pretty great that it all worked out. I now have a lot more confidence to keep trying board repairs, including more advanced stuff. Thanks, Terry, and Pinside!

    Wonderful post! And many, many thanks to Terry for his great work in this thread.

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