(Topic ID: 140784)

TerryB's Soldering Guide

By terryb

8 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #2 Terry discusses temperature controlled soldering stations. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #7 Maintenance of soldering tips. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #16 Types of solder, flux, and their usage. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #18 Desoldering equipment and how to use it. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #29 Maintaining your Hakko FR300 desoldering equipment. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #42 Basic lead solder safety practices for hobbyists. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)

    Post #44 Anti-static information. Posted by terryb (8 years ago)


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    #22 8 years ago
    Quoted from Chet:

    Excellent review of desoldering, solder and flux.
    Any comments or thoughts on some of the benchtop desoldering stations, such as the Hakko 472d desoldering station? They run nearly $600 bucks. I have a Hakko 808 which is excellent and a TENMA benchtop desoldering station which is I have not been too satisfied with. The lighter pistol grip is very comfortable to use however.

    The 472D is the cats pajamas! I'm using it's predecessor, the 470B, and at some point need to acquire *2* of the 472Ds, so I'm making my 470Bs last as long as I can - they sure aren't cheap!

    The key to desoldering equipment IMO is maintenance - keep them clean! They perform 1000x better when the filters arent clogged and the tips are cleaned/tinned. But I'm sure Terry will get to that

    #23 8 years ago
    Quoted from terryb:

    One last thing you will need is a fiberglass pen, which is used to mechanically clean joints before desoldering.
    Fiberglass-Pen.jpg

    My favorite fiberglass pen is this one:

    http://www.esslinger.com/fiberglass-scratch-brush-extra-thin/

    Don't forget some refills!

    http://www.esslinger.com/extra-thin-scratch-brush-refills-package-of-6/

    1 week later
    3 weeks later
    #187 8 years ago

    One comment about solder mask...

    I like to use clear conformal coating in an aerosol can.

    It doesn't look original, but it's pretty easy to look at a repaired area, and be sure the corrosion hasn't returned.

    While it *shouldn't* return if it's properly sealed (oxygen is required for corrosion), if it does, you may not notice it until it's spread pretty far.

    1 month later
    #211 8 years ago

    Temp varies depending on the user, too.

    Some like to run hot and get in and out real quick. Others prefer to run a little cooler and work a little slower.

    My station uses Celsius, and I generally solder at 350 Celsius, which translates out to ~662 Fahrenheit.

    Keep in mind, I'm using a higher end station, with the heating element in the tip, not the handle. A cheaper iron will drop the temp of the tip when you apply it to something like a big ground trace, as the board soaks up all the heat.

    The key is knowing how your iron reacts and how you work with it. Practice on some junk if you're unsure. Find out how much heat it takes to delaminate a trace, and make sure you use less.

    1 month later
    #251 8 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    You will never get a clean finish with ISO alcohol. There is lots of other crap in it that does not evaporate clean. So far naphtha is my favorite due to lack of overwhelming stank.

    I think the solvent is also related to what kind of solder you use.

    IPA works great for me with 'no clean' solder like I use.

    If I use regular solder, or get a board that has tons of waxy flux on it from the 'last guy', IPA won't cut it real well and I have to use Naphtha or something stronger.

    Since I use a space heater in my shop during the winter, I don't like to use anything that is highly combustible

    1 month later
    #285 8 years ago

    Fiberglass pen works great for removing solder mask / conformal coating.

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