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(Topic ID: 140784)

TerryB's Soldering Guide


By terryb

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 388 posts
  • 80 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 562 Pinsiders
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    There are 388 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
    #351 1 year ago

    Soldering gun vs soldering iron for under the playfield ?

    Was all set to get a 40 watt weller from Amazon amazon.com link »

    Or just get this, but not sure how well it will sit under the PF : amazon.com link »

    But can’t find the recommended tips: .187 screwdriver or .2” chisel tip . Suggestions?

    #352 1 year ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    Soldering gun vs soldering iron for under the playfield ?
    Was all set to get a 40 watt weller from Amazon amazon.com link »
    Or just get this, but not sure how well it will sit under the PF : amazon.com link »
    But can’t find the recommended tips: .187 screwdriver or .2” chisel tip . Suggestions?

    I have the older FX888 Analog Dial soldering iron station. Love it, definitely worth buying a quality soldering iron. The FX888d uses the T18 series tips.
    amazon.com link »
    amazon.com link »

    I have never tried any of the alternate brands, so can't speak to the quality of those. I have only used the HAKKO brand tips and they have lasted for years, still using them.

    #353 1 year ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    Soldering gun vs soldering iron for under the playfield ?

    The small stations like the fx-888 are fine for working away from the bench. Plus you'll have somewhere to put the iron down. The only reason to want a pen is if you want something smaller to put in a travel bag. Otherwise, save yourself and just buy a reasonable station like the fx888 or weller and use it for everything.

    I find the chissel or screwdriver tips easier to transfer heat for pin tasks than the pencil tips.

    #354 12 months ago

    Thanks. Ordered.

    4 months later
    #355 7 months ago

    What are folks doing when using a Hakko 808 desoldering gun during a session, specifically when you need to set the gun down for a moment to reposition a circuit board or such? I don't have any kind of "stand" for mine, so I carefully set it on the workbench and hope it doesn't rotate as I move other things such that a cord gets burned or worse my hand does! I do have the "hot sock" and maybe I should use that, but perhaps there is something better?

    #356 7 months ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    What are folks doing when using a Hakko 808 desoldering gun during a session, specifically when you need to set the gun down for a moment to reposition a circuit board or such? I don't have any kind of "stand" for mine, so I carefully set it on the workbench and hope it doesn't rotate as I move other things such that a cord gets burned or worse my hand does!

    I use this

    5AF90903-CB77-44E9-AE61-36C7BC3FD8DB (resized).png
    #357 7 months ago

    I actually own that 633 stand, and I'm pretty sure I bought it at the time I bought the 808. I was never quite sure though if it was safe to use it with the 808, specifically wondering if that stand might put pressure on the barrel that could be harmful (the back end of the 808 certainly weighs more than a soldering iron does). Not a problem in your experience?

    #358 7 months ago

    I use the Hakko FR-301 and while i bought it separately, i had seen kits that included that stand with the gun. I’ve had no issues to date.

    #359 7 months ago
    Quoted from Completist:

    I use the Hakko FR-301 and while i bought it separately, i had seen kits that included that stand with the gun. I’ve had no issues to date.

    Yeah it sits on it's side fine.

    #360 7 months ago
    Quoted from Completist:

    I use this[quoted image]

    As do I, works fine

    3 months later
    #362 4 months ago

    I have the Hakko FR-301. Works great but I still managed to pull up a few solder pads while trying to remove the undersized 1/4 watt resistors on some Bally plasma displays. The wires are bent way over and are very difficult to get out. Frustrating...

    #363 4 months ago
    Quoted from phillyfan64:

    I have the Hakko FR-301. Works great but I still managed to pull up a few solder pads while trying to remove the undersized 1/4 watt resistors on some Bally plasma displays. The wires are bent way over and are very difficult to get out. Frustrating...

    Heat may be just a touch too high.

    But even in the best circumstances stuff happens.

    Sometimes you have to wick away extra solderand cut leads with braid before you can even think about part extraction

    #364 4 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Heat may be just a touch too high.
    But even in the best circumstances stuff happens.
    Sometimes you have to wick away extra solderand cut leads with braid before you can even think about part extraction

    Thanks for the tips. I’ll try lowering the temperature at little. I think I was around 700. I’m going to practice more on a scrap board.

    #365 4 months ago

    Cut the resistors off the board use regular iron and needle nose pliers to get leads out then follow up with hakko to clean holes after adding a bit of solder to reach hole. It's not like you're looking to reuse them right?

    #366 4 months ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Cut the resistors off the board use regular iron and needle nose pliers to get leads out then follow up with hakko to clean holes after adding a bit of solder to reach hole. It's not like you're looking to reuse them right?

    Thanks. I’ll give that a try. Should I maybe add a little flux also?

    #367 4 months ago
    Quoted from phillyfan64:

    Thanks. I’ll give that a try. Should I maybe add a little flux also?

    You'll get flux from your solder assuming you're using the proper rosin core solder. This is what I'd do, in order: Cut off the 1/4 watt resistors, leaving the remaining lead as long as possible so you can grab it. Add some solder using regular iron and at the same time use the needlenose pliers to wiggle the remaining resistor lead, and pull it out gently. Now you're set up to clear the hole with your Hakko.

    I usually stagger where I'm clearing holes if they are in a row on a board to keep the heat buildup down - for instance on a chip do one side then the other, not one side all at once.

    #368 4 months ago
    Quoted from phillyfan64:

    Thanks. I’ll give that a try. Should I maybe add a little flux also?

    I always add a little flux.

    If the flux burns or carmelizes quickly, the temp is too high.

    #369 4 months ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    What are folks doing when using a Hakko 808 desoldering gun during a session, specifically when you need to set the gun down for a moment to reposition a circuit board or such? I don't have any kind of "stand" for mine, so I carefully set it on the workbench and hope it doesn't rotate as I move other things such that a cord gets burned or worse my hand does! I do have the "hot sock" and maybe I should use that, but perhaps there is something better?

    My 301 fell of the table and broke the heater tip. Replacement cost: Something like $50.00.

    I threw this cheap project together. It does the job and keeps the gun from sliding all over the place.

    9ed8d883537e404caf6eb760abfeb20dd4f2e6aa (resized).jpg

    IMG_4080 (resized).JPG

    #370 4 months ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    You'll get flux from your solder assuming you're using the proper rosin core solder. This is what I'd do, in order: Cut off the 1/4 watt resistors, leaving the remaining lead as long as possible so you can grab it. Add some solder using regular iron and at the same time use the needlenose pliers to wiggle the remaining resistor lead, and pull it out gently. Now you're set up to clear the hole with your Hakko.
    I usually stagger where I'm clearing holes if they are in a row on a board to keep the heat buildup down - for instance on a chip do one side then the other, not one side all at once.

    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I always add a little flux.
    If the flux burns or carmelizes quickly, the temp is too high.

    Thanks for the tips guys. I’m definitely going to take another shot at this over the weekend.

    #371 4 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    If the flux burns or carmelizes quickly, the temp is too high.

    When I was resoldering a Bakelite in an EM advance unit, the old solder or flux carmalized. Didn’t seem to hurt the new solders or the connectivity.

    Sometimes an old solder wouldn’t melt, took minutes. Some melt very easily. I’m using a hakko with digital temp. Any idea why some would be so hard to melt?

    #372 4 months ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    When I was resoldering a Bakelite in an EM advance unit, the old solder or flux carmalized. Didn’t seem to hurt the new solders or the connectivity.
    Sometimes an old solder wouldn’t melt, took minutes. Some melt very easily. I’m using a hakko with digital temp. Any idea why some would be so hard to melt?

    Add a little fresh solder.
    63-37 has a lower melting point.

    #373 4 months ago

    One thing i try to avoid when using my 301 is moving the tip around pressing down or moving it around on the pad. I see people on you tube doing this. I will apply heat, get the solder to flow then lift the tip off the pad slightly, then keeping the inside edge of the tip against the pin suck the solder away. Hard to explain, but what im not doing is stirring the soup pressing down on the solder pad.

    I also think its not just the temperature, but the duration you are applying heat that destroy pads. Don’t get on there and make it an afternoon - heat, suck and get off it. I will also reapply fresh solder after i remove the initial stuff and try again. Some joints are stubborn so as much as its my tool of choice, sometimes i need the wick too. especially when the leads have been folded over too much.

    #374 4 months ago

    Question for the group. I’m trying to find a decent but not overly expensive helping hands station with a good size magnifying glass, and I’m having trouble. Amazon has several models in the $35-50 range with multiple arms, but the magnifying glasses all seem to be 2 1/4” in diameter which is smaller than I am used to and seems a bit too small.

    Anyone have any suggestions? Or, if you have used a 2 1/4” magnifying glass, how do you find it?

    I should note that I’m not just using this for pinball but some small side projects using prototype through hole boards.

    Thanks!

    #375 4 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Question for the group. I’m trying to find a decent but not overly expensive helping hands station with a good size magnifying glass, and I’m having trouble. Amazon has several models in the $35-50 range with multiple arms, but the magnifying glasses all seem to be 2 1/4” in diameter which is smaller than I am used to and seems a bit too small.
    Anyone have any suggestions? Or, if you have used a 2 1/4” magnifying glass, how do you find it?
    I should note that I’m not just using this for pinball but some small side projects using prototype through hole boards.
    Thanks!

    I use a LED ring light with 8" lens.
    Something like this:

    amazon.com link »

    #376 4 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I use a LED ring light with 8" lens.
    Something like this:
    amazon.com link »

    Thanks. A lot more than I want to pay for just a magnifying glass, but I’m guessing it’s pretty good. It also is separate from a helping hands station, but perhaps I just need to buy the stuff separately to get what I want.

    #377 4 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Thanks. A lot more than I want to pay for just a magnifying glass, but I’m guessing it’s pretty good. It also is separate from a helping hands station, but perhaps I just need to buy the stuff separately to get what I want.

    Not as nice but much less money, this one works well for me amazon.com link »

    #378 4 months ago

    I was going to purchase a magnifier once, but I picked up some high-strength reading glasses from the store and it was a whole new world

    #380 4 months ago

    That HF one looks interesting, but I was hoping for something with a little more magnification.

    Thanks all. I’m probably going to have to spend a bit more than I wanted, as is typical. Probably get the magnifying lens separately from the helping hands.

    #381 4 months ago

    I've got that magnifier from HF. It is useful for my 54 yr old eyes. I have some helping hands too but never use them. Maybe once.

    2 months later
    #382 31 days ago

    Nub question - who can give a high level "when why and what for" on soldering iron vs soldering gun?

    I have a hakko soldering iron workstation with a temp dial and a nice chisel tip that gets me through most situations, that I'm VERY happy with. But still very curious.

    #383 31 days ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Nub question - who can give a high level "when why and what for" on soldering iron vs soldering gun?
    I have a hakko soldering iron workstation with a temp dial and a nice chisel tip that gets me through most situations, that I'm VERY happy with. But still very curious.

    I use my old 60's weller gun with the roundy plate chisel tip on braids and stuff.
    Its heavy and powerful! Not so good for PC boards lol

    Its a beast!

    #384 31 days ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Nub question - who can give a high level "when why and what for" on soldering iron vs soldering gun?
    I have a hakko soldering iron workstation with a temp dial and a nice chisel tip that gets me through most situations, that I'm VERY happy with. But still very curious.

    I use the gun under the playfield mostly, I like that i can let go of the trigger and it cools down quickly while i'm working on other things. i can leave it in the game and don't have to worry about it like an iron that would remain hot.. I also like it for braid, and light sockets if i need to solder the barrel to the bracket. Mine is a beast also. I think it's 300/200W. You really have to be quick with it on coils or you can melt things in a hurry....

    2 weeks later
    #385 16 days ago

    That's helpful -- I guess I could also ask, "If a guy already has a good soldering iron, is there a good reason to get a soldering gun?"

    #386 15 days ago
    Quoted from mof:

    That's helpful -- I guess I could also ask, "If a guy already has a good soldering iron, is there a good reason to get a soldering gun?"

    Its handy for big jobs to heat the contact without a lot of heat build up in the surrounding area, however a big chisel tip does a similar job at about 100 watts but you have to wait for it to heat up.

    I used it a lot when building model train track, it was perfect.

    I just use mine because it big, heavy and cool to use, like a sci-fi ray gun! And it heats up almost instantly.

    I also like the bright dual lights when you pull the trigger.

    amazon.com link »

    260 watts ia a beast but they also have a 140 watt version.

    #387 12 days ago
    Quoted from mof:

    That's helpful -- I guess I could also ask, "If a guy already has a good soldering iron, is there a good reason to get a soldering gun?"

    Not that I can see, other than if you don't have time for an iron to warm up. I used to have a gun and I csnt really think of a situation it was better for me. Big & Bulky doesn't seem like an advantage under a PF.

    #388 12 days ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Not that I can see, other than if you don't have time for an iron to warm up. I used to have a gun and I csnt really think of a situation it was better for me. Big & Bulky doesn't seem like an advantage under a PF.

    I have agree with this.

    However, a big heavy retro ray-gun is a lot of fun...

    (Yes im into the kirkland scotch again...)

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