Did the MPU board boot up? Middle LED should be blinking at a decently fast rate. Top LED should be off.
Plugged the ribbon cables in correctly?
(Topic ID: 168978)
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Can you post a picture of the whole MPU and wiring?
Also wondering if you have the game ROM plugged in backwards, which will not allow board to boot up.
I'll take some pics this weekend. The sound it was making was so jarring that I didn't keep the game powered on more than a couple seconds. My buddy popped in a few of the smaller chips last week when he was out redoing the connectors.
Is there a 'right' way to pop in that big square chip? It looked like it would fit in any direction.
New York, NY
You certainly, 100 percent fried something. There's no such thing as a "burning smell" in a pinball machine without consequences. The chip appears to be installed correctly so I'm not sure what it is. Must have put in a connector wrong or something? That smell means fried chip or fried transistor generally.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:The chip appears to be installed correctly so I'm not sure what it is.
I don't see a picture of the chips installed on the new board, only the old one.
Quoted from Minneapolispin:Is there a 'right' way to pop in that big square chip? It looked like it would fit in any direction.
Yes, when installing a chip, you always need to turn it the right way. Normally, there is a pin 1 indicator or a notch that you line up with the socket. In the case of the "big square chip", you align pin 1 to the mitered corner of the socket.
Quoted from herg:Yes, when installing a chip, you always need to turn it the right way. Normally, there is a pin 1 indicator or a notch that you line up with the socket. In the case of the "big square chip", you align pin 1 to the mitered corner of the socket.
Ok good- I did recall seeing a little dot on the holder and a line on the chip. I lined those up thinking that made sense. I'm having my biddy come over tomorrow to take a look. If he can get it up and running on the cheap, I'll keep it. Otherwise, look for this T2 to be sold as is on the Minneapolis Craig's List soon, at exactly my cost. I've kept an itemized list of all the new parts/bulbs/etc I've paid and I'm into the machine for $1197 at this point. I suppose if the buyer doesn't want the new legs, casters, bolts, cab protectors, I can knock the cost down another hundred or whatever the amount of those items were. Fingers crossed. I really wanted to have a nice T2 back in my collection.
If you can remove the connectors for the coils on the power driver board and try again. the smoke was probably a locked on coil frying a transistor. With the connector removed you can see if the mpu is booting without worrying about frying anything else.
Likewise you can pull the fuse for the coils.
Make sure all 3 ribbon cables are plugged in correctly. I would remove the ribbon cables to make sure they were in correctly and to be sure there is not a bent pin.
You only have to remove the short ribbon cable between the MPU and driver board to disable the coils, just note that it will also keep your GI lamps from turning on.
2 months later
For the record, for a WPC-089 (and WPC-S) MPU Board as found in T2, this image shows the correct ASIC installation orientation.
Pin 1 for this particular ASIC is not at a corner. It's in the middle of one side and must be aligned to the arrow in the PLCC socket.
For WPC-95 MPUs, pin 1 of the ASIC (and the orientation of the ASIC) is at the 12 o'clock position. Again, follow the arrows.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
2 months later
The replacement board and chip I bought was installed and then when the game was turned on, it started making a really loud buzzing sound. I turned it on and off and it kept doing it. Then I started to smell burning.
The new board and the old damaged board were left with my tech before xmas and the game has been safely stored away for now. I told my guy to take his time getting to the repair of the original board (I'm out of room anyway). The game looks absolutely gorgeous now, but I still haven't got it working yet. Honestly, I haven't even thought about this game, but now I need to check and see where he's at with the update. I had told him Spring was fine, as I wasn't going to be selling or moving the game during the Minnesota winter anyway.
I'll post an update when this game is eventually working 100%!
For some positive reinforcement...
Here is my board for a T2 that had damage from leaky batteries...
cleaned, neutralized, chips re-socketed, traces checked, etc
Games works great now.
Good Luck
Quoted from motorbreth77:For some positive reinforcement...
Here is my board for a T2 that had damage from leaky batteries...
cleaned, neutralized, chips re-socketed, traces checked, etc
Games works great now.
Good Luck
Let's see the "after" pics... 
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Wellesley, ON
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Let's see the "after" pics...
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Here a quote from his other thread 3 years ago about his "fix".
Quoted from motorbreth77:Yea I know, It does look bad. It worked for a few months, then some switches started randomly triggering and some were delayed. So I reseated ULN2803 on the MPU and lost a row in the switch matrix. the socket was so corroded I lost continuity from the chip to the switch connectors.
Gave the board a scrub and vinegar bath, new socket and chip, good to go.
I planned on replacing 3 other chips in the area, and all those resistors but I ordered the wrong ones. I'll fix that some rainy day.
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