(Topic ID: 211371)

Terminator 2, no boot

By PatS

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 55 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Schwaggs
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_20180306_073543672[1] (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061935550_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061910378_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061851613_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061837334_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061721844_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_061731611_HDR (resized).jpg
9db19afcc4a8c5e99f28ed205ee7eae6226e677b (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_035319494_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20180306_035219828 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pats.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 6 years ago

Hello there,

Sorry for the long post.

I'm having problems with my T2. It's is my only pinball. I've owned it for about 15 years. I had one problem (repairs to cpu board due to battery corrosion) 5 or 6 years ago which was fixed by sending it out for repairs.

I recently moved across state, and when I fired up the pinball at the new house, my sound board fried. Since my finger was still on the switch I turned it back off. No fuses were blown anywhere. After seeing clear damage on the sound board, I removed it. I turned it back on, but it did not turn on all the way, and it resets the circuit breaker in the house about 50% of the time the switch is turned on. I'm not sure if that's caused by the new house I live in, or whatever is wrong with the machine. I measured 122v at the socket.

When it does partially turn on...
The DMD gets a bunch of garbled data on it.
The backbox/playfield do not light up.
Nothing moves or indicates it's on other than the hum of the transformer, DMD garbled data, and LEDs on the circuit boards.
CPU Board LEDS D19 and D21 stay lit. D20 does not light or blink. I'm not sure if it flashes right when it's turned on, I'd have to check again.
Driver Board LED 2 is OFF and the manual says it should be on.
All other LEDS appear correct, even the DMD Board light.

I read that the Varistor might be the problem with the circuit breaker issue, so I took a look inside, and it had no Varistor or Thermistor. I could see where a Varistor had been in place before, but had been cut off. I ordered and installed a Varistor. The machine still resets my house breaker 50% of the time. I did not see where a thermistor had been in place, so I did not install one.

I've tried just booting with just the power plugs to the CPU and Driver boards only (nothing else attached). I just get the same LEDs as above, but cannot see the DMD garbled lights since the DMD board is disconnected.

I thought the CPU board might be to blame since it had failed and been repaired a few years ago. I ordered a Rottendog modern replacement. Installed it, and the LEDs exibit the same behaviour as the original board. I switched back to the old board to verify.

I just pulled the driver board for the first time since I've owned it. Now I didn't see anything obviously damaged, but I did see quite a few spots where repair work was performed by someone named "Zero".

Would a driver board cause the CPU to not boot (D19 should turn off and D20 should flash)?

I don't know what to do next. Since I have the driver board out, I think I'll take pictures. Are there other things I missed, and should check? I've gone over the underside looking for something shorting, or broken during the move. Nothing seems out of place.

Thanks for reading and any help,

Pat S

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Try reseating all the ribbon cables at all the boards connections.

I have. At this point I've taken off every electrical connection in the backbox at least once.

Thanks for helping me

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Could be one or more tantalum capacitors that blew.

Check the ribbon cables above the soundboard.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sound-board-up-in-smoke#post-3403334

Try to boot without ribbon cable on J201 and J202

Yes, my sound board looks similar to the pictures you linked, but a little worse.

I just carefully looked at the cables. The 26 pin has the slightest score marks on it, but it does not appear to have burnt through any of the wires. I'm happy to replace it, but I'd like to test it first.

I've tried booting without the cables. No difference. I will try again once I've put the driver board back just to be sure.

Thanks!

#6 6 years ago

Ok, put it back together today. The only new bit of info was that when the DMD ribbon cables are disconnected from the CPU, the CPU D20 LED flashes.

Ribbon on.
D19 Stays Lit
D20 Stays off
D21 Stays Lit

Ribbon off.
D19 Stays Lit
D20 Flashes
D21 Stays Lit

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from robertg130:

I think your fried your soundboard
You have to check your power driver 5v section,probably is bad and for this reason your CPU won’t boot
I have a spare sound card
Good luck

Yes. The soundboard is removed because it fried. I will try to learn how to check the 5v section.

I actually purchased a Pinsound, but have not installed it because the machine still has problems.

Thank you!

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

What type of circuit breaker is tripping? Is it a standard breaker? GFCI? Arcfault?
Does you T2 have the ground lug on the power cord?

I think it's GF type (late 1970's house). It does have the ground lug. Regarding that issue. I did install a Thermistor today, and that has reduced the amount of times it sets off the breaker, but it still happens.

Does anyone happen to know what causes LED 2 on the Driver board to stay off? High voltage problem?

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

There are different patterns of flashes. See page 1-43 in the manual.
When D19 stays lit and D20 flashes, it could be a problem on the CPU-board with RAM or ROM.

When it did flash, it was random, like watching morse code.

I think I should probably have them all tested after a little more troubleshooting.

Thanks.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

That would only happen when testpoint TP8 on the powerdriver is very high or 5volt too low (or LED is broken).
Maybe there is a connection between the circuit braker tripping and a high TP8.
Measure all testpoints on the powerdriver.
Check setting of transformer (3x3 plug) and mains voltage in your house (be careful here)

I've measured the test points. I'm trying to learn how to check the plug. If you mean how much voltage is at the wall outlet, it's 122v. If you mean at the circuit breaker, I'd have to learn to check first.

Test results

TP1 18.4V
TP2 4.8V
TP3 12.1V
TP6 88V
TP7 26.7V
TP8 22v

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Besides TP2 (too low) and TP3 (those are regulated),the voltages are much higher than normal. That explains why LED2 is OFF on the powerdriver.
Here you can find the jumper settings for your region:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Early_WPC_Transformers_.289_pin_connection.29

Are these wires ok? I'm in the US. They appear offset a row compared to the picture in the link above.

IMG_20180306_035219828 (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_035219828 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_035319494_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_035319494_HDR (resized).jpg

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

They are wrong and you are correct about 1 row being off. Move terminals 4-5-6 straight over to 7-8-9

Well first of all, thanks for helping find this!

If this is the problem, I'm really confused at how this came to be. I'm scared to repin it because, how did it work at the old house this way? I'm trying to think if anyone else might have touched this.

#20 6 years ago

I hope this got it. If not, just let me know, I have no problem trying again.

Thanks zaza!!!

IMG_20180306_061731611_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061731611_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_061721844_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061721844_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_061837334_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061837334_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_061851613_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061851613_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_061910378_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061910378_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20180306_061935550_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_061935550_HDR (resized).jpg

#21 6 years ago

I'm going to wait to hear back before trying anything, but just to let you know, I cannot figure out how to remove the pins...

#26 6 years ago

Thanks all.

Well, it took a while to get those pins out without damaging them. My back is telling me to lay down now

I turned it on, not knowing what to expect, and at first glance, the only thing different is that LED2 on the driverboard is now lit. Which is great. I'll test voltages again in a few minutes. The CPU is still stuck with D19 and D21 lit. The DMD is still showing non moving snowy image.

Thanks again. That's progress at least.

#27 6 years ago

TP1 was 18.4V now 15.8
TP2 was 4.8V now 4.8
TP3 was 12.1V now 12.1
TP6 was 88V now 75.8
TP7 was 26.7V now 22.4
TP8 was 22v now 18.6

#28 6 years ago

Leds on the board 124567 are lit.

Now, are my CPU chips in the right way?

IMG_20180306_073543672[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20180306_073543672[1] (resized).jpg

#30 6 years ago

I reseated the 3 connectors, and tried again. Same scenario. D19 stays lit. D20 flashes for an instant then stays off. D21 stays lit.

I can try reseating the chips. I also have a rottendog CPU board I can try.

#31 6 years ago

Does this indicate something needs to be rebuilt in the driver board to get to 5v on TP2?

#34 6 years ago

I will look into these steps.

Thanks to each of you for the help.

1 week later
#35 6 years ago

Update on this T2 Pin. I sent my driver board in to get repaired. I also ordered a new rottenddog driver board which I istalled it tonight. TP2 now gets 5.1 volts (instead of the original board with 4.8), but the CPU still does not boot. D19 lit, D20 off, D21 lit.

I again swapped the CPU chips over to a new rottendog MPU board, and I have the same results.

I'm thinking now that I should I buy new CPU chips? I've tried booting with the data cables off, and the cabinet stuff disconnected, just power to the driver board and CPU, always the same result.

I'm happy to try any suggestions here. I can take pictures and videos if that will help.

I'm in Spokane Washington btw. Does anyone know anyone nearby that an help?

Thank you for any assistance.

#37 6 years ago
#39 6 years ago

Oh that's great. I'll see if I can do that. Thanks again.

#40 6 years ago

I swapped over the 68B09EP from the sound board to the CPU board, and same result.

My next thoughts are to buy a new chip located at U6 (not sure of the name), and then ASIC. Open to any suggestions.

#42 6 years ago

D20 always lights for the briefest period when the game is switched on then goes off.

I'll make a video of it.

#43 6 years ago

#46 6 years ago

I ordered a U6 chip. If this isn't it, I'm going to try and get someone to look at it or send the boards to be inspected. I'll update after the chip gets here.

Thanks all.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If you bought a brand new Rottendog with U9 (ASIC) then a new U4 (CPU) and U6 (game EPROM) it should work. If it doesn't then I'd contact the merchant or Rottendog. If you bought it without U9 and have a new U4 and U6 then you have to suspect U9. These can be damaged when removed from the socket.
I know it sounds stupid to mention this but make sure you have oriented the IC in the correct direction. The notch should match up or the dot should match pin 1. I was once in such a hurry to test a repair I made I put U4 in incorrectly and thought I screwed up the repair. After double checking traces and continuity it was then I noticed the problem.

The rottendog cpu board did not have the ASIC, U4, or U6. I transferred those from my old original board. I have a new game rom on the way as well as a new ASIC now. Looks like they will arrive around the 20th. I will not install any of these without being sure of the orientation. If I'm not sure I'll post a picture here.

#51 6 years ago

The original everything worked before moving to the new house (which is when the sound board fried and it kept tripping my breaker). After that, D19 stayed lit, D20 off, D21 lit no matter which board I had them in. One time when I removed the data cables it looked like D20 was flickering randomly, but I believe that was before we fixed the low voltage jumpers at the regulator. It's never flickered since.

#52 6 years ago

Since I've got days before the new chips arrive, I've been continuity testing the data cables. So far, so good.

#53 6 years ago

Marco Pinball ships fast. The new ASIC arrived today. I carefully popped it in, and now I have flashing D20, and D19 turns off now. Now I'm going to carefully connect the playfield connections and see if it works. I'll update in a bit.

#54 6 years ago

The game turned on! My excitement level is over 1 million! Thanks for all the help everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
From: $ 17.99
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 26.50
From: $ 110.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 27.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
From: $ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Flashinstinct
Decals
$ 219.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Lit Frames
Decorations
3,900 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Denver, CO
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
3,600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Morgantown, WV
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
4,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
East Hanover, NJ
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 1.00
Boards
Slap Save Creations
Boards
$ 199.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
4,999
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 36.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pats.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-no-boot?tu=pats and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.