(Topic ID: 140075)

Terminator 2 Mylar repair

By Navy_AT1

8 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by fliperz
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#1 8 years ago

I recently purchased a Terminator 2, and have noticed on the play field by the white standup targets (that always get hit during ball launch ) that the mylar is torn / worn through. After taking a closer look, there are actually 2 layers of mylar here. one small one that goes right in front of the targets, and the other covers the entire play field. I was thinking I would just let it be, but this alters ball travel quite frequently sending it veering on another path.

My question is how do I go about repairing this tear in the mylar? I am a super N00b to pinball restoration .. and in general. (but am a technical guy so I am not afraid to get my hands dirty) I have included pictures .

Thoughts? advice?

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#2 8 years ago

Most people here remove the mylar from playfields.
There are a bunch of threads that deal with removing mylar.
Freezing seems to be the best option.
Search for Mylar removal, you will get a ton of hits.

#3 8 years ago

No way to repair - either leave it alone or remove it as stated above

#4 8 years ago

Just use the freeze method and take it off.

-1
#5 8 years ago

I might be tempted to try to cut that area out carefully with an xacto knife along the black lines, use a mylar removal technique (either heat or cold), clean & wax the exposed area, then put a patch of mylar down. Maybe one that fits inside the area that was cut out, and another larger patch on top of the patch to cover the edges/seams.

#6 8 years ago

Am I correct that T2 was one of the first diamond plate play Fields? Being so new to this I am hesitant to remove the Mylar and pull paint... Will the diamond plate make this process go easier? I have seen a number of threads on the subject of removal and the different processes... With two camps of thought. 1) the freeze method. Or 2 ) the goo gone method ( putting goo gone in the crease and slowly but surely pealing it back.) Has any one tried both and find one better than the other?

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Navy_AT1:

Am I correct that T2 was one of the first diamond plate play Fields? Being so new to this I am hesitant to remove the Mylar and pull paint... Will the diamond plate make this process go easier? I have seen a number of threads on the subject of removal and the different processes... With two camps of thought. 1) the freeze method. Or 2 ) the goo gone method ( putting goo gone in the crease and slowly but surely pealing it back.) Has any one tried both and find one better than the other?

If its diamond plated it should say so at the bottom of the playfied.

If it was me, I would try and remove just that top piece of mylar in front of the drops and replace just that.

#8 8 years ago

I removed mylar on my T2 and had no art paint loss , it was very easy using freeze method !

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from PlatinumPinMike:

I removed mylar on my T2 and had no art paint loss , it was very easy using freeze method !

+1

You could remove it and replace it with a playfield protector or new mylar.

#10 8 years ago

I had the exact same looking issue.

I used freeze spray to remove the mylar. Then goo gone and a plastic razor blade to clean the adhesive off.

Then, I had to use an exacto to remove part of the clear coat that had delaminated from the insert (bubbled). It looks good now. Just need to add mylar to the area to keep it protected.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I might be tempted to try to cut that area out carefully with an xacto knife along the black lines, use a mylar removal technique (either heat or cold), clean & wax the exposed area, then put a patch of mylar down. Maybe one that fits inside the area that was cut out, and another larger patch on top of the patch to cover the edges/seams.

UH yeah, don't do that unless you want your game FUBAR! You would essentially be cutting into wood. I used the freeze method and had no issues

#12 8 years ago

I wouldn't attempt just cutting away that area.

Either remove all of the mylar, or "stay at home".

#13 8 years ago

Use the freeze method and remove it. Trust me, you'll be VERY happy with the results!!

-1
#14 8 years ago
Quoted from fliperz:

UH yeah, don't do that unless you want your game FUBAR! You would essentially be cutting into wood. I used the freeze method and had no issues

It would take a gentle, steady hand. It doesn't take much pressure to cut mylar with a *sharp* blade. Even then, you should score it a few times so as not to need to press down too hard to cut. So, no, you wouldn't instantly cut into the wood. Additionally, making a cardboard or wood template would probably help with slippage.

A little risky, yes, but that's why I recommended cutting along black lines. They aren't too difficult to repair if something happens.

Personally, pulling up mylar covering a large area is risky too, especially if you don't intend to restore and protect the artwork.

#15 8 years ago

Well OP you could listen to the dozen or so members who have had success with the freeze method or go with force flows method and risk messing up your pin. Seems like the risk vs reward just aint there for the cut and pray method. IMO I think it would look worse as you would have a perfectly clear piece of mylar next to old scratched and glazed mylar. Good luck and in this case I hope the force is not with you....LOL!

#16 8 years ago

You can easily sand the "new" mylar if you so choose to cloud it up a bit. But that seems kind of silly thing to do.

It's not my pin, so I have no skin the the game (so to speak). I merely offered a possible repair option if the OP wasn't comfortable with pulling up the old mylar in its entirety. It's not a task for everyone.

#17 8 years ago

Thanks for all the advice... After reading a bunch more , and also consulting Vids guide... I went with full Mylar removal via the freeze method. It worked like a charm! I only got a small amount of decal pull from the inserts. There is what I believe is called planking below where the damaged Mylar was but it still looks good. I have cleaned the field down, used novus 2 on it, and wow it looks nice. The plastic ramps look 1000% better after some vigorous novus 2 application. Now I am considering putting mylar back on to protect the already weakened areas.... I do not have the skill set to do a full play field restoration right now ... I don't have the resources to apply clear coat the way folks here on inside say to do it.
Any thoughts?

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from Navy_AT1:

Thanks for all the advice... After reading a bunch more , and also consulting Vids guide... I went with full Mylar removal via the freeze method. It worked like a charm! I only got a small amount of decal pull from the inserts. There is what I believe is called planking below where the damaged Mylar was but it still looks good. I have cleaned the field down, used novus 2 on it, and wow it looks nice. The plastic ramps look 1000% better after some vigorous novus 2 application. Now I am considering putting mylar back on to protect the already weakened areas.... I do not have the skill set to do a full play field restoration right now ... I don't have the resources to apply clear coat the way folks here on inside say to do it.
Any thoughts?

skip the mylar and go full play field protector they make the game play like a NIB just select T2 Williams from the drop down
ebay.com link: Playfield Protectors for Pinball Machines P T

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from fliperz:

skip the mylar and go full play field protector they make the game play like a NIB just select T2 Williams from the drop down
ebay.com link » Playfield Protectors For Pinball Machines P T

I had seen this, but had not seen anyone who had any experience with them... Are they good quality?

#20 8 years ago

Just keep the playfield waxed, T2's are diamondplated should be fine in a home use enviroment. Make sure the balls have not rust spots on them.

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from Navy_AT1:

I had seen this, but had not seen anyone who had any experience with them... Are they good quality?

my buddy has it on his kiss LE and it plays like glass, I will be ordering one when I get my GOT Prem

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