(Topic ID: 243110)

Terminator 2 - My first restoration & Cabinet build


By Nacman

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by Nacman
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 38 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
7D535E63-5DC0-4852-840F-C1386173A322 (resized).jpeg
8C40E0C3-A0A4-4D4E-83A6-889FD1155E00 (resized).jpeg
91CFEBDC-C1E5-4433-AE4E-81BB8F964631 (resized).jpeg
43B7537C-39CB-4B0F-A2E2-CDBD9C0F6888 (resized).jpeg
516B423F-D5EC-40BA-B1AA-9E5629B9FA25 (resized).jpeg
879E9172-020C-439F-9FBF-4CD9A969F7B3 (resized).jpeg
BE2B0BA1-1D6D-4A9B-823C-315F8E813B63 (resized).jpeg
77FD9861-D9E8-4FEF-944F-886C80FA2CE0 (resized).jpeg
C94279DE-499B-49D8-82B9-187DB27AB215 (resized).jpeg
024C2A74-AC2F-4EBA-97A9-9BC102ECE00A (resized).jpeg
097DDB6D-F383-473E-82DE-08FC1F09A7A4 (resized).jpeg

11
#1 1 year ago

I am going to document my first attempt to rebuild a T2 I purchased 11+ years ago for $750

It was in awful shape when I got it, it was a routed game but I think it spent the last few years of its life in a bar. It stunk to high heaven. The playfield was in terrible shape, never cleaned or waxed. There is a knife or tool gash in the PF itself. How does that happen?

The cabinet is in terrible shape, eyes gouged out and chipped many places. So this is, based on what I am doing really a re-creation rather than a restoration. I plan on keeping the cabinet and repurpose it for another game. It will need a lot of work and bondo.

So that is all the bad stuff...

The good....
I have an original Williams NOS PF that was cleared 9 years ago and prior to getting it cleared it was signed by Steve Ritchie at a pinball show. I had heard the NOS PF didn’t get diamond plate like the production games did and it was confirmed when I got the PF.

I just performed a swap of all Bridge rectifiers and caps on the driver board. The Caps were swollen at top and the BR and caps were all original.

I have also just finished swapping out all the IDC connectors to crimped pin molex versions.

So my plans for the game are as follows, not necessarily in order;

1) Build new cabinet from Birch ply. - purchased
2) Apply new cabinet decals. -purchased
3) Remove and wash all parts that can be washed, they are black from no love from the operator. - process already started
4) change out GI and other lights to LED - looking for suggestions please
5) Powder-coat rails and legs.
6) Determine if I want to go back to a Williams MPU or leave the rottendog board in place - Suggestions?
7) Try to do something with the ugly gun shooter on the PF- Suggestions - I thought I read somewhere there was something out there for that....

8-100) Much much more.

Some pics and a video or two below in the next post.

-Nacman

#2 1 year ago

8B66A85D-C543-47A6-A536-F63DBB461509 (resized).jpeg92A2E444-383B-4805-8B31-E988E960A4B3 (resized).jpeg89FEF128-A5C0-445C-B417-58929D2AC7AA (resized).jpeg3DC87467-29A2-4369-A7C7-1485636E7F5D (resized).jpeg05B35C13-50F3-4EFC-BA70-BC27081D1850 (resized).jpeg7894E187-0BE1-40B5-9D56-B0F791D59AB5 (resized).jpeg

78F604E2-0252-43B3-97AA-59F26C533B8A (resized).jpeg
#3 1 year ago

Today I produced the cabinet sides after rough cutting them a few days back. Both are identical in shape and size and I used my existing cabinet as the source measurement. The back cabinet and front coin door are rough cut. I sanded and re-painted the back box light door as well. I also tested my Mitre lock bit for duplicating the interlocking design Williams used on their cabinets. After lining up the router bit, it seams to work well.

179CFC70-7400-43D5-B6D5-FE329621341C (resized).jpeg3E0484E8-7996-4DBE-BDC7-DD10E4B533DE (resized).jpeg3F918759-9930-4C19-B5AC-DC5D6F7754AF (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#4 1 year ago

All the Williams cabinet pieces have been cut to size and mitered as required. Test fit today before cutting the coin door.

13BE8C16-F8D0-409E-927B-36659DE850B1 (resized).jpeg400B2DCF-555A-4F99-9BBE-2039D20E61DB (resized).jpegCB8B684C-454C-46E3-8259-959E742DA99D (resized).jpeg
#5 1 year ago

The coin door hole was cut, along with the start button hole which took some planning due to the two different diameters. Also drilled was the gun handle for the shaft actuator, lock down mounting holes and the coin door bolt holes. The bolts that hold the gun on the cabinet will be drilled after the cabinet is all put together.

Waiting on bar clamps before I glue up the cabinet.

5F008EC4-2BB0-4C0C-9C19-B4908A719162 (resized).jpegE6C40C71-FD77-4AB6-9983-6FEF4F45AB89 (resized).jpeg
#6 1 year ago

Back of the cabinet vent cutouts done. I am going to reduce the AC power cord hole size down to the cord diameter and add a strain relief cabinet insert.

0E55E0E4-4278-43F5-BAE9-FBBB6B6F9E3C (resized).jpeg
#7 1 year ago

Looking good!

#8 1 year ago

great looking work!

#9 1 year ago

Nice progress

#10 1 year ago

Thanks rdoyle1978 chad cosmokramer.

I gotta tell you, the best Forstner bits for the money are Diablo’s. I had one, used it for the start button. But the flipper buttons are double recessed, the outside is 1-1/8, and the inside is 1-1/4. I practiced using spade hole bits and round hole saws....Split the top layer on practice board. Not the Diablo’s. Home Depot just delivered the two a i need for the flippers today. I also received the bar clamps for when I glue up the cabinet this weekend.

I finished routing the cabinet top in the back that has a recessed edge and the rectangle access hole for pf wiring harnesses. It came out nice!

EE6434C1-1B6D-4813-B29C-3E53160E46FB (resized).jpeg7EB5608F-198F-4787-8D8C-E09ABD4C4759 (resized).jpegEAE1065A-4BFE-40FA-9661-30E15BEC616C (resized).jpegF394BF0C-AC18-45E0-8504-1D4450F8CAD8 (resized).jpeg
#11 1 year ago

Dry fit the cabinet tonight and will glue it up on Saturday. I am happy with how it turned out. Corners are tight and the bottom floor is birch, not mdf. It will be heavier but I think less prone to issues. The bottom fits in the recessed edges of the side and back. Had to be lightly tapped into place. Nice and tight.
2A0D8A64-A8EE-47EA-A35A-2CE7F88C6E0B (resized).jpeg8C83866A-3DCF-471D-8D39-F60ADB46B274 (resized).jpeg

#12 1 year ago

Very nice. My 2 cents, next time you buy clamps, get some pipe style clamps. I recently converted over to pipe clamps and love it. I have a bunch of 3 ft sections cut and threaded. If I need something longer, I just couple wto of the 3 ft sections to make a 6ft section. Some people complain that the pipes are heavy etc, but it's much cheaper to buy a coupler than a whole new clamp when I need a clamp to be 6 more inches. Also the pipes don't flex when under a lot of pressure.

#13 1 year ago

@nacman This looks awesome! I am following with interest as I have a few system 11 games that function well, but the cabinets are in super bad shape. Judging by the pictures of your workspace, I am assuming you have considerable woodworking experience. Do you think this is something within the realm of an average person?

I haven't been able to find a tutorial or you tube video on building a new pinball cabinet.

#14 1 year ago

wondermellon Do not let my workspace fool you. I have acquired tools from relatives who have passed away, I have bought some over time and bought a few here lately.

I have no woodworking experience, not even is shop in High School. Youtube is your friend. checking and rechecking with a friend prior to cutting is also helpful. Two heads are better than one kind of thing.

The router miter lock lock bit was the most daunting but in the end it was fairly easy. I started out using the plan that can be found on this website for the Williams cabinets. However I ended up transitioning to measuring my T2 cabinet as I found some very very minor discrepancies. Since you have a source cabinet or two you should not have any issues. I could not source easily grade “A” 5-ply birch. What I am using I got from Home Depot and $50 a sheet. I think the main difference is the top layer of wood is very thin as it is the prettiest. Without very sharp cutting tools it’s prone to flaking which will require some filling and sanding as I have experienced. Even with the sharp cutting tools it’s going to happen. What I found that reduces it almost to nothing is putting a backer board behind anything that I am drilling and Clamp it prior drilling and that keeps it from splintering. As far as cutting (table saw and circular saw) I bought a blade with the most teeth I could find and I did not have any problems. Cutting the miter joints with the router caused the most flaking.

feel free to ask me anything but I would tell you jump in the water is nice.

#15 1 year ago

nacman Thanks! I am opening space in the garage and hope to get started this summer.

2 months later
#16 10 months ago

It has been a little while since I posted because work took over and the heat of the summer has slowed me down as well. But nonetheless I have primed the cabinet using an HVLP paint sprayer and using original Kilz. It has been sanded to the point it feels smooth as glass.

I have also just completed the back box and will be painting it shortly. The final color is going to be gloss lacquer black.

024C2A74-AC2F-4EBA-97A9-9BC102ECE00A (resized).jpeg097DDB6D-F383-473E-82DE-08FC1F09A7A4 (resized).jpeg43B7537C-39CB-4B0F-A2E2-CDBD9C0F6888 (resized).jpegC94279DE-499B-49D8-82B9-187DB27AB215 (resized).jpeg77FD9861-D9E8-4FEF-944F-886C80FA2CE0 (resized).jpeg516B423F-D5EC-40BA-B1AA-9E5629B9FA25 (resized).jpeg879E9172-020C-439F-9FBF-4CD9A969F7B3 (resized).jpegBE2B0BA1-1D6D-4A9B-823C-315F8E813B63 (resized).jpeg
#17 10 months ago
Quoted from Nacman:

wondermellon Do not let my workspace fool you. I have acquired tools from relatives who have passed away, I have bought some over time and bought a few here lately.
I have no woodworking experience, not even is shop in High School. Youtube is your friend. checking and rechecking with a friend prior to cutting is also helpful. Two heads are better than one kind of thing.
The router miter lock lock bit was the most daunting but in the end it was fairly easy. I started out using the plan that can be found on this website for the Williams cabinets. However I ended up transitioning to measuring my T2 cabinet as I found some very very minor discrepancies. Since you have a source cabinet or two you should not have any issues. I could not source easily grade “A” 5-ply birch. What I am using I got from Home Depot and $50 a sheet. I think the main difference is the top layer of wood is very thin as it is the prettiest. Without very sharp cutting tools it’s prone to flaking which will require some filling and sanding as I have experienced. Even with the sharp cutting tools it’s going to happen. What I found that reduces it almost to nothing is putting a backer board behind anything that I am drilling and Clamp it prior drilling and that keeps it from splintering. As far as cutting (table saw and circular saw) I bought a blade with the most teeth I could find and I did not have any problems. Cutting the miter joints with the router caused the most flaking.
feel free to ask me anything but I would tell you jump in the water is nice.

Hats off to you nacman ! You make it look easy. It’s coming along great and enjoying the progress! I’m a closet T2 lover. I never owned one but I always love to play it anytime I can.

4 weeks later
#18 9 months ago

I was, and still may at a later time, powder-coat some of the external metal. However, I really like the dark blue in the side art, so I went with a blue metal flake spray paint. Since this is going to be a home use game for me, it should wear ok.

Here are a few shots of the legs and back box hinge.

7D535E63-5DC0-4852-840F-C1386173A322 (resized).jpeg8C40E0C3-A0A4-4D4E-83A6-889FD1155E00 (resized).jpeg91CFEBDC-C1E5-4433-AE4E-81BB8F964631 (resized).jpeg
#19 9 months ago
Quoted from Nacman:

I was, and still may at a later time, powder-coat some of the external metal. However, I really like the dark blue in the side art, so I went with a blue metal flake spray paint. Since this is going to be a home use game for me, it should wear ok.
Here are a few shots of the legs and back box hinge.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice. Gives me inspiration for when I paint my coin door and trim pieces.

#20 9 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Very nice. Gives me inspiration for when I paint my coin door and trim pieces.

I failed to mention and I think it’s really important is I bought a cheap sandblaster cabinet since I already had a large compressor. I sandblasted those legs and then wipe them down with solvent before I spray painted them. The legs looked like this lockdown bar assembly, which was also sandblasted.

image (resized).jpg
#21 9 months ago
Quoted from Nacman:

I failed to mention and I think it’s really important is I bought a cheap sandblaster cabinet since I already had a large compressor. I sandblasted those legs and then wipe them down with solvent before I spray painted them. The legs looked like this lockdown bar assembly, which was also sandblasted.[quoted image]

I do the same, but I use etching primer paint before I apply finish

#22 9 months ago

This is a shot in the dark but I think I’ll ask anyway. I’m getting ready to start transferring all the playfield equipment to my new place yet.

My new play field has got the holes drilled for the Tnuts but it is not Tnutted.

There’s also are missing holes in the new playfield that are missing for the numerous bumper posts and Ramps that are secured with nuts on the bottom side that have that self locking Teflon on the old PF.

Last I have two wires that I am 99% sure where added after the fact and the are in the loom for playfield solenoids. Problem is the wires are cut on both ends of the loom so they’re not connected to anything and I can’t find anything that doesn’t have a missing connection. They are larger wires as if they may have carried higher amps than play field lighting for example. I’m going to attach pics but I have some questions as it relates to all three issue.

1) Since the new play field is clearcoated and the holes need to be drilled through the clearcoat I’m concerned that I may spider crack it when I do. SUGGESTIONS?

2) The holes that are missing, like the example pics with my two fingers on the old play field and in the new play field, how do I know how to exactly line up the holes where they belong?

3) Has anybody got any idea what that brown and blue wire might be or seen it somewhere done to another T2?

There’s no kind of template I can lay up on the new play field is there?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#23 9 months ago
Quoted from Nacman:

This is a shot in the dark but I think I’ll ask anyway. I’m getting ready to start transferring all the playfield equipment to my new place yet.
My new play field has got the holes drilled for the Tnuts but it is not Tnutted.
There’s also are missing holes in the new playfield that are missing for the numerous bumper posts and Ramps that are secured with nuts on the bottom side that have that self locking Teflon on the old PF.
Last I have two wires that I am 99% sure where added after the fact and the are in the loom for playfield solenoids. Problem is the wires are cut on both ends of the loom so they’re not connected to anything and I can’t find anything that doesn’t have a missing connection. They are larger wires as if they may have carried higher amps than play field lighting for example. I’m going to attach pics but I have some questions as it relates to all three issue.
1) Since the new play field is clearcoated and the holes need to be drilled through the clearcoat I’m concerned that I may spider crack it when I do. SUGGESTIONS?
2) The holes that are missing, like the example pics with my two fingers on the old play field and in the new play field, how do I know how to exactly line up the holes where they belong?
3) Has anybody got any idea what that brown and blue wire might be or seen it somewhere done to another T2?
There’s no kind of template I can lay up on the new play field is there?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Plenty of articles on drilling into clearcoated playfields. My technique is to make a soft impression with an awl, then use a small drill bit to prevent spider cracks. There are no guarantees with clearcoat. It has a cure time, and if you rush it, boom, stuff goes haywire.fast

#24 9 months ago

When I did my pf swap, wax paper was my best friend for making templates to drill holes.

Working from the old pf, I would lay the paper on the area and use a pen to mark the location of “landmark” holes that were already on both pf’s (target bank holes, lamp holes, etc). Then I would punch holes in the paper for the locations of the holes I needed to drill. I would then transfer the wax paper to the new pf, line everything up and mark my holes with a sharp pick.

After marking the holes, it’s always a good idea to check them with a digital caliper against your old pf to ensure location before drilling.

#25 9 months ago

Thanks for both replies. The wax paper is a great idea and perfect. The PF has been curing for 10 years.lol. I bought it a long time ago and had it cleared as it wasn’t cleared from the factory. I will let you know my progress!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Fredericksburg, VA
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside