Make sure no alkaline damage on cpu board, anticipate burnt gi connectors.

What condition?
I wouldn't go over 1,000 non-working

I don't know, depends on how much of a project it is. If the game is complete and not far from working and a decent playfield I don't see why as much as $1500 isn't out of the equation. Working players condition T2s are going for $2500+ these days.

For a deal, and to make up for your effort, maybe $1250 max if you're looking for a deal Id guess.

Just my opinion!

That’s insultingly low and not the “right offer” if the guy has checked onlineand thinks it’s worth $5,000. It’s a tough situation these days.

On the other and you never know! Maybe he doesn’t give a crap and just wants to get rid of it.

Sight unseen and anticipating for sure acid damage on the board, id probably offer $1100. Probably has GI burn too but who cares, they all do, and that’s a $9 and hour or two fix.

If you guaranteed it to all be there and just not working I’d come get it for a grand right now without looking at it. I agree with Levi. $500-750 is insulting.

A grand or less is probably insulting if it is all there. I'm seeing older games in lesser condition for more than that. I'm passing on DE Simpson's that is a little more money and complete, just has some fixable problems.

Granted a $1000 sight unseen is fair for the buyer as a risk taker, but the best option would be to go see it in person and make an offer accordingly. I think It would probably be something more like $1500 -$1800 depending on everything..

This is probably way more accurate.

Hi,

I'm looking at a T2 right now as well. I saw the game today, the left side of the DMD is out, there were some matrix lights out, but I don't know if it's just bulbs. The seller said that the PF canon shoots on it's own (is it supposed to do that?). I wasn't in a position to get deep into the game. The batteries were recently removed, bit I'm sure were in the game for years. The batteries themselves didn't show ant signs of leakage. I guess my largest concern is the DMD. Would you think it's the display our driver board? I wiggled the connectors on both ends of the harness and unplugged then plugged the harness back in, with no change.

any thoughts?

Display probably going out , or ribbon cable (s). Cannon could be home switch or wire loom wearing out under playfield. Bulbs burn out, or possible a column or row out ( transistor)

You can get a used one for about $100. Usually from someone who replaced theirs with a colorDMD.

Thanks guys,

I'm supposed to pick up the game on Thursday. I didn't really want to trouble shoot it in front of the seller. I did reseat the ribbon cable, but no change.

These days, I just to a visual inspection and load it up. I don't try to get it working. Otherwise, the seller might change their mind about selling or decide to bump up the price because it started working

Pretty much anything can be fixed or replaced.

exactly

What ever happened with this?

I got mine today.

now to find out what's up with the DMD.

IMG_3330 (resized).JPGIMG_4691 (resized).JPGIMG_7602 (resized).JPG

IMG_2135 (resized).JPG

will do. good luck with the negotiations.

Me thinks it B the DMD.

anyone have an extra?

Buy a ColorDMD.

come on... I have a ColorDMD on my T2 and can we just all stop acting like it's the greatest thing ever? T2 has minimal dots, why else did it take them a long ass time to color a pin that is highly popular? Not a great add-on for the price of $400+. The second any other pin I own gets released in ColorDMD i'm yanking mine out of T2 and going back to orange...

Agreed on the colordmd option for T2. Just not worth the upgrade.

I went with the $4 red film upgrade and think it's perfect.... way better choice than a color dmd.

Of course, since hes trying to solve a bad dmd issue it's more understandable. But still.

20180129_171000 (resized).jpg

I'm not sure if it's a keeper, and hopefully getting a replacement old fashioned, boring, orange display tomorrow.

Didn't realise I even implied it's the greatest thing ever... But if you have to buy a new display, why not go for the best? Maybe it's just me.

Good for you. Something just doesn't sit right with ColorDMD in older games like this. I prefer the original look as well.

Soooooooo.......

Let's start an argument........how you we feel about LEDs in older games?

LOL, No, let's not go there.

BTW, since this was Nikrox2's thread about him getting his T2.....What's happening with that?

ColorDMD in T2 looks badass. Makes a killer game even better. Must add IMO...Arnie animation on the bike, The T1000’s. Love it all

I have LEDs in only 1 of my 5 games, if that tells you anything.
Nothing to see here. Move along.

This one tilts. You can take the head off, but you have a few dozen connectors to remove.

good luck

Heavebs no...please resist the urge to do any mods until you have the stock game working 100 percent reliably for a good amount of time. Even then, be very selective and sparse in mods
Stock games are GREAT!

Hear hear!!! I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this. Led's under inserts are enough mods for me.

And Nikrox, congrats!

Congrats! Great score, and great game!

Obviously the backbox GI is out, and the left side of the playfield - both easy fixes and common on this game. T2 was my first DMD game also, and my backbox GI was also out. First molex repair I ever learned. Check fuses first, then check the connectors in the lower left corner of the driver board.

Looks like the tail of the HK ship above the standup targets is broken off, those are available though. Can upgrade to a lighted up model -

Does the flipper go down when you shut the game off? Any credit dots on the display once the game boots up?

Did you get the manual? If not, print one off here - https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual.pdf

Let's get this thing working 100%!

Ok, good! At least we know the problem now, and easy to fix -

How do those other connectors look? I think that's the backbox one that's cooked - how is J121? Should be your playfield lights - give that a push -

Capture (resized).PNG

On the Skull...get the cool led eye sockets and paint the teeth white. Get the led H/K ship ...looks cool and protects the ship.

The actual pins on those boards should be replaced too, they've had so much heat put on them they're breaking down, same as the connectors. The general illumination circuits werent designed well on this game. Putting led's in will greatly reduce the stress on the system, as will #47 bulbs instead of #44s, but once you replace those connectors and pins you should never have a problem again in a home setting. Be careful removing the connectors, looks like that top pin got bent a bit.

Fixing that backbox connector may get the bottom part working again - if not, swing the backbox open and check the connector going up to those lights -

You're doing great! It's exciting when things start working, isn't it? lol