(Topic ID: 230992)

Terminator 2 judgement day


By Nikrox2

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 64 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 60 days ago by Nikrox2
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 months ago

I have a “possible” line on a T2. Hasn’t worked in a few years Owner may not sell so I want to make the “right “ offer. (Enough to have him sell it , but not too much where it’s above value after fixing it). Don’t really know what’s wrong with it so it’s a pig in a poke! Any suggestions tips or pricing ideas?

#2 4 months ago

Make sure no alkaline damage on cpu board, anticipate burnt gi connectors.

#3 4 months ago

What condition?
I wouldn't go over 1,000 non-working

#4 4 months ago

Great things to look for ! Thanks !!! And yeah. I was thinking $500 -$750?? But I’ll need to look inside

#5 4 months ago

I don't know, depends on how much of a project it is. If the game is complete and not far from working and a decent playfield I don't see why as much as $1500 isn't out of the equation. Working players condition T2s are going for $2500+ these days.

For a deal, and to make up for your effort, maybe $1250 max if you're looking for a deal Id guess.

Just my opinion!

#6 4 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Great things to look for ! Thanks !!! And yeah. I was thinking $500 -$750?? But I’ll need to look inside

That’s insultingly low and not the “right offer” if the guy has checked onlineand thinks it’s worth $5,000. It’s a tough situation these days.

On the other and you never know! Maybe he doesn’t give a crap and just wants to get rid of it.

Sight unseen and anticipating for sure acid damage on the board, id probably offer $1100. Probably has GI burn too but who cares, they all do, and that’s a $9 and hour or two fix.

#7 4 months ago

Again thanks ! That’s exaxtly what I didn’t want to do - insult him. So this helps !!

#8 4 months ago

If you guaranteed it to all be there and just not working I’d come get it for a grand right now without looking at it. I agree with Levi. $500-750 is insulting.

#9 4 months ago

A grand or less is probably insulting if it is all there. I'm seeing older games in lesser condition for more than that. I'm passing on DE Simpson's that is a little more money and complete, just has some fixable problems.

Granted a $1000 sight unseen is fair for the buyer as a risk taker, but the best option would be to go see it in person and make an offer accordingly. I think It would probably be something more like $1500 -$1800 depending on everything..

#10 4 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I think It would probably be something more like $1500 -$1800 depending on everything..

This is probably way more accurate.

2 weeks later
#11 4 months ago

Hi,

I'm looking at a T2 right now as well. I saw the game today, the left side of the DMD is out, there were some matrix lights out, but I don't know if it's just bulbs. The seller said that the PF canon shoots on it's own (is it supposed to do that?). I wasn't in a position to get deep into the game. The batteries were recently removed, bit I'm sure were in the game for years. The batteries themselves didn't show ant signs of leakage. I guess my largest concern is the DMD. Would you think it's the display our driver board? I wiggled the connectors on both ends of the harness and unplugged then plugged the harness back in, with no change.

any thoughts?

#12 4 months ago

Display probably going out , or ribbon cable (s). Cannon could be home switch or wire loom wearing out under playfield. Bulbs burn out, or possible a column or row out ( transistor)

#13 4 months ago

You can get a used one for about $100. Usually from someone who replaced theirs with a colorDMD.

#14 4 months ago

Thanks guys,

I'm supposed to pick up the game on Thursday. I didn't really want to trouble shoot it in front of the seller. I did reseat the ribbon cable, but no change.

#15 4 months ago

These days, I just to a visual inspection and load it up. I don't try to get it working. Otherwise, the seller might change their mind about selling or decide to bump up the price because it started working

Pretty much anything can be fixed or replaced.

#16 4 months ago

exactly

#17 4 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Again thanks ! That’s exaxtly what I didn’t want to do - insult him. So this helps !!

What ever happened with this?

#18 4 months ago

Find out tomorrow ! I’m meeting him tomorrow after work to look it over and hopefully get it. Excited really. I’m mainly older EM machines so possibly getting something like this is a wish list for me. I’ll keep everyone posted to the outcome Maybe send a photo of it in my car! (Hope)

#19 4 months ago

As it hasn’t worked for the 2-3 years I’ve seen it, I will probably be on here asking stupid questions to get her back up and running. Fingers crossed!

#20 3 months ago

I got mine today.

now to find out what's up with the DMD.

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#21 3 months ago

Good news! keep me posted on your progress. Don’t know the shape of mine (still negotiating) so any item is useful.

#22 3 months ago

will do. good luck with the negotiations.

#23 3 months ago

Me thinks it B the DMD.

anyone have an extra?

#24 3 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Me thinks it B the DMD.
anyone have an extra?

Buy a ColorDMD.

#25 3 months ago

come on... I have a ColorDMD on my T2 and can we just all stop acting like it's the greatest thing ever? T2 has minimal dots, why else did it take them a long ass time to color a pin that is highly popular? Not a great add-on for the price of $400+. The second any other pin I own gets released in ColorDMD i'm yanking mine out of T2 and going back to orange...

#26 3 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

come on... I have a ColorDMD on my T2 and can we just all stop acting like it's the greatest thing ever? T2 has minimal dots, why else did it take them a long ass time to color a pin that is highly popular? Not a great add-on for the price of $400+. The second any other pin I own gets released in ColorDMD i'm yanking mine out of T2 and going back to orange...

Agreed on the colordmd option for T2. Just not worth the upgrade.

I went with the $4 red film upgrade and think it's perfect.... way better choice than a color dmd.

Of course, since hes trying to solve a bad dmd issue it's more understandable. But still.

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#27 3 months ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Buy a ColorDMD.

I'm not sure if it's a keeper, and hopefully getting a replacement old fashioned, boring, orange display tomorrow.

#28 3 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

come on... I have a ColorDMD on my T2 and can we just all stop acting like it's the greatest thing ever? T2 has minimal dots, why else did it take them a long ass time to color a pin that is highly popular? Not a great add-on for the price of $400+. The second any other pin I own gets released in ColorDMD i'm yanking mine out of T2 and going back to orange...

Didn't realise I even implied it's the greatest thing ever... But if you have to buy a new display, why not go for the best? Maybe it's just me.

#29 3 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I'm not sure if it's a keeper, and hopefully getting a replacement old fashioned, boring, orange display tomorrow.

Good for you. Something just doesn't sit right with ColorDMD in older games like this. I prefer the original look as well.

#30 3 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Good for you. Something just doesn't sit right with ColorDMD in older games like this. I prefer the original look as well.

Soooooooo.......

Let's start an argument........how you we feel about LEDs in older games?

LOL, No, let's not go there.

BTW, since this was Nikrox2's thread about him getting his T2.....What's happening with that?

#31 3 months ago

ColorDMD in T2 looks badass. Makes a killer game even better. Must add IMO...Arnie animation on the bike, The T1000’s. Love it all

#32 3 months ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Soooooooo.......
Let's start an argument........how you we feel about LEDs in older games?
LOL, No, let's not go there.
BTW, since this was Nikrox2's thread about him getting his T2.....What's happening with that?

I have LEDs in only 1 of my 5 games, if that tells you anything.
Nothing to see here. Move along.

#33 3 months ago

I meet with the “possible” seller this week again. He’s not yet ready to part with it yet but I keep prodding . I’m doing my best to get it tho!

I have to ask, if I do get it- most of my machines are older EM’s where the head comes off. My road king head tilted. Does this one tilt or come off? Just trying to plan ahead and will need to know for planning any help. Once apart their not too heavy. One man show. But with the tilt it’s almost a 2 man gig. Thanks

#34 3 months ago

This one tilts. You can take the head off, but you have a few dozen connectors to remove.

#35 3 months ago

Ill grab my son and just keep it all together (if I can swing the deal!) lol

1 month later
#36 73 days ago

Well, keep those Pinsider fingers crossed! Finally got to the actual "make the offer" stage on this one, so should know today if accepted or asking for more..or declining to sell. If all goes well, I may be able to bring this one home on Friday! We shall see

#37 73 days ago

good luck

#38 73 days ago

Whoop Whoop! Offer accepted, well I had to raise it $100 more than the original offer, but we've come to an agreement and I pick it up Friday! Yeah!

Now, of course I'll need to plug it in and see if it even works, then the usual clean / fix what's broken, but this one is a no mod unit, basic factory.

What would be the top 10 mod's I should do for the best bang for my buck ? (Maybe I should start a new thread?)

I'll save the full "I brought her home today" post when money has been exchanged and she's sitting in my house (don't want to jinx it!)

#39 73 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

What would be the top 10 mod's I should do for the best bang for my buck ?

Heavebs no...please resist the urge to do any mods until you have the stock game working 100 percent reliably for a good amount of time. Even then, be very selective and sparse in mods
Stock games are GREAT!

#40 73 days ago

Thoroughly agree 1000% there "wayout440"! Good call tho, I like my games to be as original as possible, even with the dents and scratches...how do they say that on TV - oh "Patina"

But yes, just running it through all the diagnostics, etc - as I've never even played this game before, so I don't even know what to expect or how it's supposed to operate...

So probably first step it to get a manual with schematics, to even see how to do the diagnostics, then possibly find one locally to play and see what it's supposed to do, work and sound....

Then see where this one falls.....really worried about possible battery damage on this one... I've seen it sit for 3 years and not turned on...(but I've been "told" it all works"...we shall see)

Just thinking ahead....I see the mirror blades, LED"s, all of these other add on's, etc - so wishful thinking on my part....but yes, get her working 100% first!

#41 73 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

.....be very selective and sparse in mods
Stock games are GREAT!

Hear hear!!! I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this. Led's under inserts are enough mods for me.

And Nikrox, congrats!

#42 68 days ago

And finally. Arnold is in the house ! One flipper needs rebuilt (I’ll do both) but all else seems to be working Changed the batteries. (No corrosion luckily). Amazing find really! Took many months of negotiating but brought it home today

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#43 68 days ago

Congrats! Great score, and great game!

Obviously the backbox GI is out, and the left side of the playfield - both easy fixes and common on this game. T2 was my first DMD game also, and my backbox GI was also out. First molex repair I ever learned. Check fuses first, then check the connectors in the lower left corner of the driver board.

Looks like the tail of the HK ship above the standup targets is broken off, those are available though. Can upgrade to a lighted up model -

Does the flipper go down when you shut the game off? Any credit dots on the display once the game boots up?

Did you get the manual? If not, print one off here - https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual.pdf

Let's get this thing working 100%!

#44 68 days ago

Dude! Thank you. We are sitting here now, not knowing how it all should work and you see it all from a photo! Amazing Thank you! Will check on those items and yes that piece is broken wouldn’t have known. Again thanks for the help !

#45 68 days ago

And you’re right ! Removed this connector and it broke in half where it looks like it had burnt before.

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#46 68 days ago

Ok, good! At least we know the problem now, and easy to fix -

How do those other connectors look? I think that's the backbox one that's cooked - how is J121? Should be your playfield lights - give that a push -

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#47 68 days ago

Yes. I can push them in and I’m getting all lights. Intermittent of course because the connector is fried and in 3 pieces.

Playfield stays on. Both sides now. Top backbox. Bottom is the issue

I do notice when I can get them all working there is heat back there at that connector. So much so it would probably fry again

What’s the cause of this?

#48 68 days ago

On the Skull...get the cool led eye sockets and paint the teeth white. Get the led H/K ship ...looks cool and protects the ship.

#49 68 days ago

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#50 68 days ago

The actual pins on those boards should be replaced too, they've had so much heat put on them they're breaking down, same as the connectors. The general illumination circuits werent designed well on this game. Putting led's in will greatly reduce the stress on the system, as will #47 bulbs instead of #44s, but once you replace those connectors and pins you should never have a problem again in a home setting. Be careful removing the connectors, looks like that top pin got bent a bit.

Fixing that backbox connector may get the bottom part working again - if not, swing the backbox open and check the connector going up to those lights -

You're doing great! It's exciting when things start working, isn't it? lol

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