There is no fliptronics board.
There is an EOS switch you should check if it is clean and tight closed.

First, are you sure it's a mechanical issue and not an electronic one? Have you checked voltages? Is the EOS switch adjusted properly? It should only be opened when the plunger is pulled in almost all the way, and should only have a 1/8" gap.

No, T2 is not a fliptronics game. It started with TAF.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC-89_.26_WPC-S

You do not normally need an entire flipper assembly. A rebuild kit is normally fine.

The last time I rebuilt T2 flippers, I used the slightly later WPC rebuild kit with the return springs, rather than the compression springs. The compression springs don't seem to last very long before being destroyed. I also used coil stop A-12111.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=244

http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#KT-WFLIP06

Note that these later WPC kits appear to contain coil stop A-12390, instead of A-12111. Here's a breakdown of the parts found in the PBResource rebuild kit. You don't have to get the full kit--you can order only the parts you actually need.

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-WFLIP06.html

Both PBR and PinballLife have them listed individually, so all you have to do is search for the part numbers.

Don't be hard with your son. A properly maintained flipping mechanism is supposed to take abuse, so it is likely that it was a matter of time before your flipper would fail with any use.

Is it not flipping at all or is it flipping weakly?

Also, have you exhausted the built-in diagnostics? (Switch tests and coil tests could at least confirm which parts are OK.)

I just redid the flipper mechs in the T2 I just got off route. Bought the kit from pinballlife.com and also bought 2 new coils (11629). Took me about an hour to clean and rebuild both and it wasn't too bad. The kit did not include the flipper bushings so get those too.

The flipper parts in my game were beyond worn out and broken. It was impossible to get the ball up either ramp. Even replaced the bats which were cracked.

IMG_9751 (resized).JPG

I didn't realize you were waiting on an answer to something. What additional questions did you have or what went unanswered?

There's something else wrong with the machine. No machine should require a rebuild after one year of home use. You can try a rebuild if you already bought the parts, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't restore the flipper strength.

Have you checked the EOS switches on the flippers? You should be able to move the flipper bats by hand and see the EOS switches open/close in the switch diagnostic.

Posting some pictures might be able to help us help you. Post up pictures of both flipper switches (with the contact points visible), the end of stroke switches (with the contact points visible) on the flipper mechanisms as well as the flipper mechanisms. From this, we should be able to see if they have been replaced lately.

Weak flippers on this era machine can be caused by worn flipper switches (on the side of the cabinet), worn EOS, mis-adjusted EOS, mechanical issues, power issues (caused by bad solder joints, connectors, etc)

My estimate at this point is the PDB needs solder reflowed and potentially rebuilt.