Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Thanks! Just found it strange that the bumper would slam down and hit the rubber ring.

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

So one of my coil end switches was not opening. Lead to stuck flipper. I removed the sleeve. The new sleeve is TAF tight as.
If a coil sleeve won’t go into a coil is the coil bad?
Thanks

Quoted from Manny65:

There are quite often unused audio clips on the B/W sound ROMs - I suspect that the sound engineer recorded as many call outs as they could but then it was up to Richie as to which were used in the actual gameplay.

Quoted from Bohm:

Reposting this from the tech forum:
Replaced worn right flipper leaf switch and started popping fuses at F102 and other strange behavior like being able to activate it in attract mode. Turns out the new leaf switch is shorting to the plunger, what I’m trying to reconcile is I can’t seem to place it in a position where it functions normally and doesn’t make contact with the plunger. For the time being I’ve insulated both with electrical tape but that’s not a good long term solution.
I ordered them from Pinball Life (SW-10A-48) but I’m wondering if their version is longer for some reason. I was going to snip off the end but that’s where the contact is so there really isn’t any extra to shorten.
I feel like maybe I’m missing something obvious but I don’t see it so I’m reaching out for advice

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

If I don't fully hit the right ramp with full power, it always comes back down and goes SDTM. Is there supposed to be a wire or other piece to prevent this (like on BOP, ball return from pop bumpers has a SDTM blocking wire), or is this by design? It's just brutal! Yes I know I suck

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

I can’t find the part number for the plunger stop. Can anyone let me know what it is? Thanks John

Quoted from tripplett:

Well I had already taken the pictures. Maybe it will help someone. I don’t have any resistors on R2 or R1. R2 seems to have a jumper.
Looking at the schematic I agree this isn’t your issue. It appears to be a board meant to reduce noise in the circuit.
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Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

A countersink with a flat bottom is called a counterbore. Use the proper term when searching for bits and you will find better results.

Quoted from retroware99:

As part of my PF swap I'm rebuilding my flippers. Based on the photos I saw a few posts ago, it looks like the coils are supposed to have diodes. Mine do not - even though the coils look to be original. So which is it, diodes or no diodes?

Quoted from atg1469:

So oddly my T2 doesn’t have a service outlet in it. It has a cap where the outlet should be which I’m guessing can be replaced with this part from PBL. My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?
https://www.pinballlife.com/ac-service-outlet-snap-in-receptacle-with-wire-leads.html
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Quoted from Cocktaildave:

I am finishing up a playfield swap and the metal ramp top terminator plastic has me a little stumped. The metal ramp holes are too small for a 6-32 screw. Looking at my and others shop pics and it shows attached with 4 hex head screws but how? Should I tap the holes for a 6-32 screw or drill it up for a screw and nut or find a tiny screw and nut? Just looking to keep it as original as possible. I have learned some things and will post some of my findings when I finish it.
Thanks for any help!
David
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Quoted from ravve:

Thanks mate, I will actually replace the slingshot plastics (but not the "hands" above them), and the two big plastics around the skull.
There are only small damages on those, but the other ones are in 100% condition, except for the yellowing...
Hm..