(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 10,956 posts
  • 737 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by jrcmlc
  • Topic is favorited by 274 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

53663951190_696642b1ae_c (resized).jpg
53663311748_14568d061c_c (resized).jpg
53662225557_f2e8f3ac6e_k (resized).jpg
Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual_-_Update.pdf (PDF preview)
A2_Feature_Adjustments_(Update).pdf (PDF preview)
Terminator2_L8_4.pdf (PDF preview)
53639132189_e8b428873f_k (resized).jpg
53639132179_2f5a4b2c09_k (resized).jpg
IMG_5447 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5475 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5462 (resized).jpeg
PXL_20240401_002830006 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240401_002816443 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240331_192714330 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240331_192724360 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240331_192719354 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tezting.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

266 posts in this topic match your search for posts by tezting. You are on page 1 of 2.
#2761 9 years ago

T2 has always been my favorite pin. I have been looking for one for a very long time for the right price.
I picked it up this Saturday and have been trying to fix some of the issues, but need a little help from you guys.

When the ball is loaded in the canon. The ball will roll out of the canon when the canon is close to the bottom?

I am also sad about someone putting screw holes in the playfield close to the skull. Why would you do that? Making it harder to have a long game? I will restore the playfield and fix it when the machine is up and running.

image.jpgimage.jpg
#2771 9 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Are those holes from the top down or do they come up from the bottom of the playfield?

Top down :-/

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Your machine is level side to side right?
If so, mine needed the switch adjusted in the canon to let the ball sit flush in the canon, it did the same thing. I just bent the switch slightly with my switch bendy tool.

Do you have a image of the canon where you bended the switch?

In the video you can see how the ball starts to roll out

#2773 9 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Your looks like its sitting flush. Are you SURE you machine is TOTALLY level side to side?

I feel a little stupid. But you might be right.
I did level it by using the round thing mounted ind the left corner (I have never had a Pinball with that before).

But when I measure like I normal do it is not level at all. How do I get it perfect level in the correct way?

4 weeks later
#2828 9 years ago

Hi,
I have LED's under the playfield and thinks that it is time to change the GI to LED. Many of the pictures in here looks great! I like the "cold/metallic" look som members have with the GI lightning.

But are people using blue or cold white or a combination of both? Would love to see a image of your playfield with LED GI lightning and what type of LED's you have used?

#2831 9 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

New T2 I am finishing up. I am not happy with the gi lighting so this is coming back apart. I did make a new backlit apron which I think came out pretty good. All mods made by me, debating adding my interactive cannon mod which can be seen on my youtube. The alternate translight really made this thing look the way I wanted. 80% complete but here is a pic.

20150111_201246.jpg 182 KB

20150111_201452.jpg 207 KB

Looks good, are you using White or Blue GI or a mix?

I hope more will join with image end LED's used.

#2840 9 years ago

Could more share there playfield ligtning and write what colors they have used?

1 week later
#2848 9 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Do not buy this!
I`m talking about playfield protector "very good quality".
It costs me about 130$ and today i removed it with a pair of scissors and throw it in the garbage.
The material was visibly degrading after few hours of playing - testing the machine.
As you can see in the pictures, the surface is badly scratched and the material is not transparent anymore.
Playfield looks now much better without it.
I do not recommend it - unless you feel happy to throw your money.

1001-Terminator-2.jpg 65 KB

_MG_5503.JPG 72 KB

_MG_5514.JPG 48 KB

_MG_5515.JPG 66 KB

_MG_5493.JPG 281 KB

Wow I am shocked. Was thinking about getting one for another game. Are you pinballs new? I thought it was a very hard material that was used..

#2853 9 years ago

Just curious. Do you know if it is easy to polish smooth again?

#2868 9 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

I have only been using Comet for a while now. They are awesome and I have NEVER had a problem with bulbs. I did my T2.
I used the supreme 4 SMD non-ghosting in the inserts matched to the color of the insert. (I like them bright)
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528-ng.htm
and for the GI and the backglass I used the single LED frosted and domed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8mm-led.htm
They are so inexpensive, I usually buy the 25 pack if possible. Even if I only use 10-15.
A machine usually runs $100

IMG_20131207_193959_520.jpg 217 KB

Are all your GI blue?

#2889 9 years ago

I Would like the apron
(Denmark)

1 month later
#3050 9 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

How good did it feel pulling off that film?
I've been following your build and it looks amazing. You should consider adding these more realistic eye LEDs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256

Best upgrade I have ever bought. Such a little thing with such a big impact of the overall look.

1 week later
#3119 9 years ago

Hi,
Does anyone know a guide to take the canon apart? Or have pictures of doing it?
Mine is not running very smooth so would like to clean it.

1 month later
#3267 8 years ago

Question about touchup.
Has any matched the orange around the inserts with Createx colors? I would love some advice on what colors I should mix to get close.

#3290 8 years ago

Has any bought a good set of insert decals? (top quality)
I can see Classicarcade has some for sale on eBay but have read a lot of bad stuff about them.

#3315 8 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I really like the look of purple/blue GI on Terminator. The purple is plenty bright enough and really fits the sci-fi theme.

Can you share an image? Never seen purple on t2

3 weeks later
#3364 8 years ago

Hi,
Need some T2 help.
What is the part number for the "yellowed post" on the image?

Billede_27-06-15_09.51.22.jpgBillede_27-06-15_09.51.22.jpg

#3366 8 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Standard posts you can buy at most any pinball supply house..
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=91&pg=1

Thank you.
Should it be bigger than the black post? Also is original color white?

#3369 8 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

White would be terrible to keep clean. Go with whatever you think would match that area.

Quoted from Pinterest:

The original color on that is yellow!

Thank you very much for the help

I have one more question (might come more as I take T2 apart for restoration).
Should the "tip" of the kickback look like this:

Billede_28-06-15_11.44.58.jpgBillede_28-06-15_11.44.58.jpg

#3378 8 years ago

Thank you all for the help
Do anyone know why they drilled holes in the bottom of the playfield?

image.jpgimage.jpg

#3383 8 years ago

The decal under the right ramp, do anyone know where I can buy it?
I am not able to find any information about it.

#3401 8 years ago

1 week later
#3454 8 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

5mm led's seem to be a perfect match

image.jpg

Do you have link and price?

#3476 8 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm putting in all red post sleeves from Cliffy in the T2 but read that the Williams designers always used a yellow sleeve in their games..... not sure how much or any of this is true but... where would the yellow one go? Thanks

Mine where at the right. As you can see previously in this thread.

#3524 8 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

While we are at it...how about this blue....???...Thank you.............Joey
image.jpg

Lol. That looks 100% like mine. I will decal mine. What will you do?

#3556 8 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

I have a T2 I'm going to restore with cab decals, nos playfield.Playfield in the game has day one mylar over diamond plate ? Anyone ever removed this safely?

I removed mine yesterday on a none nos without any problems at all.
Do you know where to find more nos playfields?

image.jpgimage.jpg

#3565 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Yes, I removed the mylar over my T2 DP. It went really easy using the freeze spray method followed by the flour glue removal trick. Good luck!

I tried that for the first time. Could not believe how great it worked!

#3572 8 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Stock bros. i have them stock.

Stock bros?

#3575 8 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

I think he is sying they came stock with the game. My Illinois is a bit rusty

I guess me slang/English failed

#3592 8 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

looks like my play field is finished soon

DSCN9780.jpg DSCN9782.jpg DSCN9781.jpg DSCN9783.jpg DSCN9784.jpg DSCN9785.jpg

Looking great! Are you doing the touch up? Have you changed all insert decals? They look so "clear".

#3604 8 years ago

Hi T2 friends.
Have some of you installed better speakers in your T2?
I did it in my Transformers and I think it was worth it. But I have never installed it in an "older" machine and am in doubt if it is worth it?

1 week later
#3686 8 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

-----

DSC_0404.jpg DSC_0406.jpg DSC_0405.jpg DSC_0407.jpg DSC_0409.jpg DSC_0408.jpg DSC_0410.jpg

Looks amazing!
Is that a canon without a laser? If where did you get it?

#3687 8 years ago

Hi,
Do any of you have the "timer" insert decal in spare? Would like to buy it

#3689 8 years ago

Has any of you added new decals and clear coated after? I have to add a new timer decal on mine. When removing the old I can see that it looks a lot clearer without the old hazy clear. So thinking about removing all decals and stick new on. But would like to hear people's experience and if it is worth it?

#3691 8 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

You need to be careful which type of decals you have installed. I cannot recall which are which but I think the mylar style decals do not clear coat well at all. The cc does not react well with these. The standard decals need to be covered with cc or mylar to stop them from wearing.

Thank you for the heads up! Now I really need your help. Any here who know who has "good ones" for T2?

3 weeks later
#3751 8 years ago

Hi T2 friends!
I need a little help with two "hacks" on my T2.
Would like to have them removed and done correctly.
Can I just buy the correct connector for both and I will be fine?

Billede_13-09-15_20.23.33.jpgBillede_13-09-15_20.23.33.jpg

Billede_13-09-15_20.23.24.jpgBillede_13-09-15_20.23.24.jpg

#3753 8 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

You will need new connectors, crimp contacts, and header pins for each connection.

Thank you!
So it is the right "sockets" that are used? I "just" need new connectors? Would love a link to the correct connector, looks like there are many sizes.

#3764 8 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Hi guys, just went through some of my inventory and i have 8 or so plug and play shooter lane mods available. All 8 are red i also have a couple blue. Pm me if you want one $25.00 shipped in the US. I use a connector that plugs in under your pf so no hanging wires or alligator clips. I also have several plug and play backpanel mods. These have an inline remote to choose any color you want. These work with most wpc games. Also $25.00
Not available on my website
Chris
http://www.rockcustompinball.com

20150111_201246.jpg

Are they controlled by the game GI?

#3781 8 years ago

I am restoring my T2 with clearcoat and touchup etc.

Just got an idea for a "mod" and would love to hear your guys opinions.
My shooterlane is in such a bad shape that I have to paint it "wood color" but then got an idea.

I have bought this shooterlane cover mod:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/3976/stainless-steel-shooter-lane-cover-for-terminator-2

So I got the idea to paint the shooterlane black and place a blue led strip where it runs. I was thinking that by doing it black it would highlight the stell ball when shooting. What do you guys think? I have seen blue LED stripes on the shooterlane before but not in the combination of the cover and black color.

1 week later
#3824 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Just be aware that the slings on ebay do not have accurate colors. The fluorescent red (orange) isn't fluorescent.

Where can you get the correct ones?

#3828 8 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

now with Guns n Roses background
» YouTube video

Video is not available? Would love to see/hear

1 week later
#3855 8 years ago

Hi,
Do anyone know if the teeth of the skull in the middle was totally white from the factory? Maybe one of you have an image from a NOS playfield?

1 week later
#3876 8 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Starting to mod this skull and just dremeled the rear access for installing LEDs. What a difference a badass skull makes!
https://goo.gl/photos/xeHv85jeWBLJy7xFA

Is it just me or does the original skull look a lot more like the T800 from the movie?

1 week later
#3892 8 years ago

Can anyone tell me where I can buy this canon cover? I can't find it anywhere...

DSC_0319.jpgDSC_0319.jpg

2 weeks later
#3918 8 years ago

Anyone know what material the Gun is? I would like to have new chrome on mine but the guy I talk to who should do it is afraid that it might be Zinc and if that is the case it will be a problem

Billede_03-11-2015_20.02.51.jpgBillede_03-11-2015_20.02.51.jpg

#3920 8 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

yes it is
zinc diecast
not every Chrome Company could do it
i asked here in Austria 2-3 and found only a great Company

Thank you very much.
But it is sad news

#3922 8 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Mike Chestnut in the US not only will rechrome T2 handles, but usually has fully rebuilt ones in stock for faster turn around. Plenty of threads exist.

But I am from EU

Quoted from tezting:

Thank you very much.
But it is sad news

Has anyone tried if some of the chrome paints available for airbrush etc. is a good alternative? (fx. alclad)

#3933 8 years ago
Quoted from ThiagoValdez:

I guess the question becomes whether to forego the front piece altogether or just eliminate/replace the text.
I actually did a design that had more detail in the bust, but removed the detail when I realized it would be obscured by the lettering.
Here is the current and previous design side-by-side:
sidebyside.png
But I didn't want to waste waterjet time on something that wouldn't be seen.
What would you recommend? Changing the text to something else? eliminating it? Removing that whole section? I'm open to ideas.

I like the text in red, but I can see that it is a little silly that there is 2 x Terminator in red just above each other.
I can't decide if it is best with more detail or something else that Terminator in text?

1 week later
#3948 8 years ago

What kind of flipper coils are you guys using? The manual says x30 but mine has the more powerfull x29 (Was there when I bought the machine).

#3950 8 years ago

What is the must correct color? I ordered a new repro and wonder if mine has been dis colored by the sun/smoke etc. or if the repro is wrong?

image.jpegimage.jpeg

image_1.jpegimage_1.jpeg

#3952 8 years ago

Its a little hard to see.
Is yours grey or brown?

#3955 8 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

I'd say gray....like the bottom one in your pic..............Joey

Thanks! Then the repro is good My old one was very brownish.

#3969 8 years ago

Blue or Red flipper buttons with light?
Please share your vote and image

1 week later
#3994 8 years ago

How much have you spend on your T2? I just did the math on mine... And I must say I am a little shocked! Small stuff just adds up. Also rechroming the gun was not cheap. $3400(including machine) and I am not done yet.

1 month later
#4064 8 years ago

Anyone here who has a scan of a nos playfield or closeup images?
I need to see a none faded color for my restoration

1 month later
#4149 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

fading of the fluorescent ink.

How should it look? I am about to repaint some on mine and have matched the current color. But can easily make it different if it is more correct?

#4151 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

On the PF? For touch ups, I would just match what's there. Trying to repainted all that color on the PF will be a huge job!

I know and I have started. Will have to repaint like 80%.

1 week later
#4170 8 years ago

If any of you have something for water slide decals on the playfield, please let me know It would be a great help on my restoration.

#4171 8 years ago

The black on the apron. Is that glossy black or satin black? I am restoring mine so your help would be great!

#4173 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Mine is gloss black Tez.

Thank you! If yours has damages and you want to restore it, please contact me

#4192 8 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I bought my T2 new in '91 and havn't needed to remove the grip since I installed it out of the box.

The current T2 you have now is from NIB? :-O
Wish it was me!

#4195 8 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Yup, HUO. I personally unboxed and assembled it (and 100's of others) because I worked at a Williams distributor in Michigan at the time. We sold it to an operator (friend of mine too) in 1992, who took it to his house for his personal collection, then I bought it from him 2 years later. I've had it since 1994. When these machines came new, the gun handle was not attached, I had to attach it to every single one. There was also a "recall" of sorts on the handle, and I had to open all the early ones we got and replace the offending parts. Mine came as new with the improved handle because it was one of the last ones built.

That is awesome! Do you remember what the problem was?
Just curious where there a special reason why you got it back in 94 and could keep it for so long? (I have noticed must people change there collection often)

#4199 8 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I still have a document from Williams back then that I can scan and post. I have kept it this long because its the best pin Williams (Steve Ritchie) ever created in my personal opinion... I never get tired of playing it! "The Getaway" is a dangerously close second, and I have that too. My Getaway unfortunately is not HUO, but its in great shape and I will never give it up either!!

Thank you for sharing

#4200 8 years ago
#4208 8 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Some pics of the trigger handle, what it's supposed to look like...
It is normal for the spring to sloppily go through the collar, the collar's only function is to limit travel of the trigger/pin.
The spring actually compresses inside the collar when you pull the trigger.
IMG_3165_(resized).JPG
IMG_3168_(resized).JPG
IMG_3170_(resized).JPG
IMG_3169_(resized).JPG

This is "funny" I was sure that the trigger was the other way. I was thinking why should it else be "shaped" and I also looked in the manual
Screen_Shot_2016-04-07_at_07.31.12_(resized).pngScreen_Shot_2016-04-07_at_07.31.12_(resized).png
But guess I was wrong

1 week later
#4216 8 years ago

I am thinking about getting PinSound for my T2.
The video of it sounds awesome but I really miss the real Arnold voices.
- What is the reason for not using the original voices?
- Is it possible to make a version with the music from the video but with original voices?

#4219 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

To improve the quality of the Arnold callouts when played through the pinsound board, you have to improve the quality of the source material which means re-recording them. You could use the originals with the pinsound board but the quality will not improve all that much.
Also, many of the things Arnold says in the pin, are not in the movie.

Thank you for the answer. I wonder what pinball arcade did? Or are the samples on their t2 just as "bad" as the original t2?

#4221 8 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

TPA uses the same original audio.

Thank you.
So no noticeable audio improvements? (Noise reduction etc. )

#4223 8 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Glad to see someone else wants to do the same thing as I do if I get a pinsound card. While I appreciate the effort put in by the voice actor to re-record the call outs, it bothers me because I know that's not actually Arnold. If I end up with one of these cards I would like the original call outs with the real T2 theme music and maybe add in Guns N Roses for a multiball or something.

Great idea with GNR

4 weeks later
#4333 7 years ago

Hi,
I need some color help
The grey street (outer lane) is that the same grey color as in the middle? When I look I think the street is a little lighter but I am very much in doubt.

#4339 7 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Hi,
I need some color help
The grey street (outer lane) is that the same grey color as in the middle? When I look I think the street is a little lighter but I am very much in doubt.

Color-blind bump?

#4342 7 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

A little confused.....by street do you mean escape route shot...?...and middle..pop bumper area....?..........Joey

Yes! Correct, are the two grey exactly the same?

#4344 7 years ago

Like 100%?
Would like to know if I could use the same color when repainting the colors. But as said I am in doubt if the route is a little brighter or not.
Thank you for helping me

#4358 7 years ago
1 week later
#4365 7 years ago

Have always wondered.
Should the orange/red on the cabinet be red or fluorescent orange?
I have only seen faded cabinets..

#4367 7 years ago

Oh my
I have new decals and they are not fluorescent...
Anyone know where you can buy cabinet decals that looks like the original?

#4374 7 years ago

Is it possible to get a nos playfield or in very good condition? Have there been talk about a reproduction?

6 months later
#4703 7 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Just spotted this on RGP:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/schpWGFg8tc
It looks like Peter somehow obtained the rights for T2, and is gearing up to reproduce T2 playfields.

OMG!!!!
I have been waiting for a repro but never thought it would happen.
How is he's quality?

#4728 7 years ago
Quoted from Sinistarrett:

Heres what I did with my beat up skull, decided rather than get a new shiny one I got out the propane torch and sandpaper and went with a " battle damaged" look.

Very nice!
Did you use Penske or airbrush?

#4737 7 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

I did not bought it. I made it with my mini-lathe machine.

Open a shop and start selling them?

1 month later
#4800 7 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

That looks great, how much would a complete chrome package Cabinet decals, backbox decals and translite be?

+1

1 month later
#4888 7 years ago
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

Who likes chrome?
We have some new chrome goodies coming soon. Apron decals, target decals, cannon, and backboard all printed on REAL chrome.
Teaser:
» YouTube video

I like your Retro intro
Would you share price? Is it possible to see them installed?

1 month later
#5011 7 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Recommendation for stock cabinet decals? Anyone know of official or nos decals? Assuming they are all repro scans?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-repro-cabinet-decal-set

He is doing licensed silk screened decals with flourenced colors.

#5025 7 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

So... a fellow pinsider (I don't know if he wishes to stay anonymous, but again, thank you man, so very much!) was kind enough to share with me scans from all T2 plastics, and here's what I'm going to do:
I reached a buddy of mine who already made some reproduction plastics for me in the past, and based on these scans he will be able to produce a whole batch of new sets, including the Cyberdyne plastics.
The bad news is that it may take a month or two for the new plastics to arrive but on a good note it will be possible to share with the community, in case anyone needs to replace a few T2 plastics.

Can you do the fluorescence color?

#5036 6 years ago

Damn. The original plastics had it right?

1 month later
#5172 6 years ago

Hi Club,
How many of you would be interested in a playfield replacement?
I am trying to get Buthamburg to do a rerun because I missed the first run:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-repro-playfields-pre-order-open#post-3769931

But he needs a lot of preorders to do another run

3 weeks later
#5247 6 years ago

Anyone know where they have the right ramp in stock? (mine is cracked)

2 months later
#5459 6 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Pretty pumped on this beautiful brand spanking new T2 playfield I recently received!

You have seen that the one Lock insert and the other are swapped?

#5520 6 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Keep posting! I need to strip mine down and rebuild. I will be doing the same process, want to do it right. Any do's and dont's are appreciated!
Where you able to get cabinet decals? I have been waiting for months for repros
Do you guys want to go in on an order from pinball center? I need a few things. Anyone have a out of usa mailbox?

Peter that did the repro playfields will also make decals. In right colors and as close to the original as possible.
He's playfields are awesome quality!!

1 week later
#5598 6 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Hey Ya T2 metal heads,
anyone attempted to make a shield of some sort that fits behind the skull head to prevent a odd air ball dropping in behind it, TIA

Mine had foam there. I think it might be a fix Williams suggested?

3 weeks later
#5659 6 years ago

Where and do they have the original color?

3 weeks later
#5729 6 years ago

Hi all!
I got some great news, Peter who did the T2 playfields are thinking about doing a second run! So if you want new shiny great looking playfield. Please let him know and sign up for one
He is currently talking about July so you have plenty of time to save up.

#5734 6 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I'm a bit uninformed but interested. What was the cost and who is Peter?

You can see the last run here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-repro-playfields-pre-order-open

Quoted from Soulrider911:

They are super nice, but plan on pre drilling a lot of the holes.

Just got an answer from Peter about this:
"We weren’t sure, for some original have it, some don’t.
But I have heard that people are drilling it, so in future we will have it drilled."

Quoted from Soulrider911:

On mine the clear coat is pretty soft.

Have you tested recently with a nail? He is putting a lot of clear on, so I think it takes some time before it is totally cured.

Quoted from Soulrider911:

I would not put it up against an HSA

I would nearly always have a new playfield compared to a restored one. It is new healthy wood, so the shooter lane is "perfect" and does not need paint etc. Also there will be no bondo etc. on the playfield or paint over paint. Restoration is awesome and I don't doubt that it can be awesome! But if I could choose I would always buy a new one, I guess thats also why you are selling you HSA and keeping the new one? (Sorry if I misundertodd you, but understood it like HSA > New playfield)

#5738 6 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Anyone know when they are doing cabinet decals?

Beginning of December he said today. They will be silk screened with fluorescent color.

#5739 6 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

tezting interesting points. And I agree with a lot of them.
In my case my old playfield (that went to HSA) was in amazing condition to begin with. No bondo needed, healthy wood, no planking, no raised inserts, really could have been used as it was.
As a collector, I would always chose an original, but that’s just me and that’s because like an old car, I like keeping them as original as possible. That does not mean that my opinion is fact for every other person In This hobby.
There are tons of advantages of repro playfields. One being color. Newer printing techniques and the fact a new pf is well new, the colors are un faded.
I’m not saying one is better than the other because that’s in the eye of the beholder.

Sounds like you had a healthy playfield. So if it is just small corrections and clear coat I think it can look great.
I understand that having it 100% original and looking great is nice. But the way I see it is where is the line? When you are removing the silk screened art and adding decals to the cabinet? Why not just restore that also? And some are changing boards to new rotten ones?
But somehow people have a special opinion on the playfield with the milky inserts (old clear) this should be kept original!!!
I hope you get my point (just what I think). Changing out the playfield is just like removing the original cabinet art. Or changing out another major part. Either have a perfect 100% original or don’t. I don’t understand why people look different on playfield repros? New ones are perfect and have clear inserts

1 week later
#5804 6 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

ypurchn snakesnsparklers I spoke with Pete actually last night. So they are having some Bally Williams issues due to PPS / Copyright. They are in the process of getting a license to put them back on the site, but no guarantees.

So there might not be any plastic set?

1 week later
#5828 6 years ago

Peter has some great news!
They look great and plastics are next.

Screen Shot 2017-11-29 at 12.35.34 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2017-11-29 at 12.35.34 (resized).png

1 week later
#5850 6 years ago

Just opened my cabinet decals from Peter from B&T Automaten Vertr.
The orange is just spot on! Like the playfield. The quality of the material is also much better than other cabinet decals I have bought. They seem more strong/protected?

If you are looking for are restoration of you T2, reserve/buy your playfield and/or cabinet decals and/or plastic-set from him (they are licensed). The quality is top notch

#5851 6 years ago

So I recommend a company for doing great products that licensed and I get PM "threats" ? Kind of hostile...

Screen Shot 2017-12-06 at 10.10.27 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2017-12-06 at 10.10.27 (resized).png

#5855 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Dude... I know disguised kind of people like you... too damn well... every time I posted sthg about the plastics I acquired down in my country, you came here right after praising that beloved company of yours, announcing over and over their "licensed" plastic sets...
Please, don't get me wrong, I'm completely fine with that, no worries, but what surprised me is that you got the nerve to send me a PM "interested" on how did I get my plastics, where could you also buy, etc, etc... So that's my answer to your PrivateMsg, buddy - simple and straight.
Anyway, the only thing I regret in my now not-PrivateMsg is my grammar error: "Definitely not TO you".
On another note, if anyone else needs some of my help on that matter, PM me (I promise to keep your Msg Private), and I'll be more than glad to positively contribute!
Like I think, and fellow pinsider soulrider911 just stated, we should all get along for a common cause (pinball), but unfortunately, grumpy and jealous people are to be found everywhere...

Dude, I dont understand why you take it so personal and have to attack me with "disguised kind of people like you" PM's etc.
Lets get the FAQ straight.
- I asked you about a plastic set, because I wanted one!
- I did not order from you because Peter contacted me and said he would do a set.
- I have NOT talked bad about YOU or your PRODUCT.
- I give recommendation to Peter's products because I really think he is doing a good job. I know because I have a new playfield and now decals from him. If it was something from another company and for another machine, I would do the same. I am not "taking any sides"

So take a chill-pill and stop attacking me (and maybe others?)
After 3 years and many posts/threads - This is the first time I "meet" someone like you. Hope you take a deep breath and I never hear from you again.

1 week later
#5895 6 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Well this weekend I finally got fire up my Freshly restored T2, Plays awesome! Had to make a few minor adjustments to the cannon, and the lunch Guide and it was playing great. I only got to put about 20 games on it, but it was a blast.
Sadly this morning I go into my Pin room to clean them, and I look down and my T2, my heart just about broke... My brand new Reproduction playfield has started ghosting in a major way. After countless hours and $, to walk in and see this was very rough to put it lightly.
I'm sure the first question is: where did the playfield come from. It was from Peter at buthamburg. Now I don't want to come off negatively towards Peter, He is a stellar person to work with and I know he will make this right. Others have this playfield and I have not heard of any issues, so I'm thinking it may have just been my luck.
tezting
Its also a good thing I send my Old T2 PF to HSA, as its looks like I may actually have to use it.

Shit! I can feel your pain
My playfield is not mounted yet but is same batch as yours. I am getting really nervous now.
I know he has done playfields for other games as well. Has this ever happened before on he’s playfields? What does Peter say to this?

#5913 6 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I personally am not interested, but I'm sure there are a number of people whose playfields are far worse than some ghosting. I'm sure they might looking to replace theirs, so was just curious as to what you'd be doing with it.

Have they signed up for the next run of playfields? Just contact Peter and he can help with a new playfield.

1 week later
#5923 6 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

My apron is banged up....where can I get a brand new replacement apron?

+1

#5925 6 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Apron could be refurbished this way.
First stain off all old coating, next sand or glas blasting and at last powder coating and new decals.
Here's an example of T2, F-14 and Indy, at the end the same Job.

I am not a fan of the stickers. I think it is to visible. I have started to make water slide decals for mine. Then clear over it all.

1 month later
#6051 6 years ago

Waterslide decals would be the best. Also blend in much better as the original. If someone has the PS skills it would be awesome if they did them ☺️

#6056 6 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Huhuuu.... here's my new stuff... loads of decals and custom made parts.
Also new galvanized parts for Cabinet and Backbox.

Who made the serial number sticker? I could use that.

1 month later
#6161 6 years ago
Quoted from Habeboo:

I just wanted to post some pics and a video link to a Terminator “Skynet” topper we designed for a client. It features:
1) Custom designed artwork.
2) 3D sculpted skull with lighted eyes
3) Fully illuminated, multi level design.
4) Animated “flickering flames” background
5) 12 illumination sources with interactive strobing lights.
This was built as a one-of-a kind design but gives you an idea of what is possible
» YouTube video

Impressive!

#6163 6 years ago
Quoted from Habeboo:

I just wanted to post some pics and a video link to a Terminator “Skynet” topper we designed for a client. It features:
1) Custom designed artwork.
2) 3D sculpted skull with lighted eyes
3) Fully illuminated, multi level design.
4) Animated “flickering flames” background
5) 12 illumination sources with interactive strobing lights.
This was built as a one-of-a kind design but gives you an idea of what is possible
» YouTube video

How much does it cost?

4 weeks later
#6283 6 years ago

RAL is just a color code. So I would be surprised if it was not possible to find it ☺️

#6296 6 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Ah Mikonos... well well - last week banned in the German Pinball Community Flippermarkt

Why?

#6307 6 years ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

Hi tezting again!
Let me explain this publicly for the benefit of all.
This was your question: "Yes it’s the apron you posted in the thread.
But they suck because of all the black on the sticker.
Water slide decal is a ultra thin transparent material you can use for etc. pinball restore. You print on it and then you put them where you want them and you can clear coat over them. When you do that it looks like it was painted direct on because it’s so thin."
Transparent vinyl without white ink have 2 problems: 1) darker effect in back colour because gloss print material. 2) Transparent vinyl printed becomes translucent vinyl (but with black colour, it becomes oppaque).
I just prepared a little graphic to explain it in a better way. Here is:
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Transparentvinylexplanation.jpg
About printing with white ink, it is expensive and not all print shops have special machines or installed white ink.
Regards

So what do you suggest? I want to paint the apron solid black and add “something” and then clear coat it.

#6326 6 years ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

If there are not more printing questions about "Terminator 2 Aprons"

Actually I had. But the hostile and negative reactions in this thread made me stop asking.
First time a see this kind of reaction in this forum (beside a personal attack from a very active member here that I also addressed earlier).
Do you have your own thread where I can ask questions? I guess the pissed off people are not active there.

1 week later
#6373 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Agreed. He thinks his game is the greatest and if you mention anything being off about it (like those ugly ass art blades) he flips out and then scours the site for pictures of your games and posts them with pathetic come backs. Sad.

Not to mention the threats you will get on PM.

#6412 6 years ago
Quoted from Sinistarrett:

Wondering whats the status on these new plastics from Peter...anyone know?

I don’t know the status for plastic. But I think he is doing more playfields. So if any need please contact him.

#6413 6 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

The decals from Peter (BUT) are perfect and the only licensed ones in the market right now.
They have that orange that almost will be discussed if reproduction or next gen, etc. are compared against them.

I also bought a set and they look great! Better than previous decals I have bought from other sellers.

#6415 6 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

In Germany you have to pay ~300 Euro for licenced decals, next gen are affordable for 125-140 Euro.
And the substrate is always the same and not worse or better.

Yes.
But if you think about all the hard work you have to do if you want to do it right when replacing decals. The price difference should not be the reason.

2 weeks later
#6494 5 years ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

So I removed all Mylar minus the big peace in the pop bumper area. Used the freeze method. It was my first try at this, and I am super stoked that no paint came off. Now I am going to start flushing up the inserts. I plan on using a clap with pieces of wood, and heat on the bottom side of the playfield. None of the inserts are very bad just few with slightly raised corners. I am hopeful that they will stay flush with this method as I am not planning to use any new glue if I don't have to. What kind of success have yall you have using this kind of method? Thanks Shawn

I really think you should add new glue. I have previously tested without and they did not stay.
I have flushed all my inserts and glued them and they are not moving anymore

#6496 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

2-part epoxy, and just running a bead around the edge where the plastic meets the wood

That is exactly what I used and how I did it

1 week later
#6512 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

All the brackets, flaps and ramps... galvanized in zinc and chrome.

Wow! How much?

#6528 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

Help me out with one of those translights I have no issues with South America.

You will properly get a PM from him now. But be very careful! He might send you personal threats (he did to me and other members I have talked with) if you do/say anything he does not like. Very unpleasant.

#6534 5 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Hi all. Well back on track. I am doing a restore on T2 and going custom. I will be selling the original plastics so if the guy a few comments above please don't kick a baby!! and send me a pm and you can have dibs on them when I am ready to change over! Cheers.
In Australia pinside gets a bad wrap often but I don't know why as it has so much good information and people.
You are always going to get the trash element and I choose just to ignore them....

Can you tell more about the custom ideas?

#6565 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball77:

Does anyone have a excellent playfield for T2 for sale? I may do a full restore on my game.
I missed the HSA Restored Terminator 2 Playfield that Soulrider911 had for sale.
Thanks. PM me with what you have.

I can also confirm Peter is making great stuff and that he is doing a second run of playfields. So if you want your T2 to look amazing (playfield/decals/plastics) contact Peter ☺️

1 week later
#6570 5 years ago

Can someone tell me if the T2 backbox has a 90 or 45 degree angle?
Related to my thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/correct-backbox-edge-williams

If someone has a good image of there original box in good shape it would be great help!

#6572 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Hope this helps... in my opinion its 45°.

Damn! Some say 90 some 45
Does someone have a really nice original T2 that can check?

#6579 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

Here are some pics although mine are more beat up than I thought.

Thank you. It looks like mine. It’s around 45 too and 90 bottom?

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Mine is square on the top corners (well, actually very slightly rounded) and 45 on the bottom.
It is probable there were many manufacturers of these cabinets and possible there were variances between manufacturers.

You might be right. But I did not know they did.

2 weeks later
#6617 5 years ago

Is it normal to have this piece of wood in the bottom of the cabinet?

4309875D-522A-48CE-8C76-F696057235B8 (resized).jpeg4309875D-522A-48CE-8C76-F696057235B8 (resized).jpeg
#6619 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Yes it'a a plate for WPC coin box.

Thank you

#6620 5 years ago

I am thinking about getting chrome siderails and lockbar.
Members who have it, are you happy with your choice?

Also, if there is a member from EU, where did you buy?

#6622 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Rails and bar in chrome is a nice effect, but I'm careful regarding scratches from rings or wristwatches.

Thank you.
Where did you buy them?

2 weeks later
#6706 5 years ago

When doing T2 restoration small things matters

C81AB931-0199-4546-9816-C501205A1EC6 (resized).jpegC81AB931-0199-4546-9816-C501205A1EC6 (resized).jpeg
#6708 5 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Totally understand. It was just something I have started briefly so far as I want to get rid of the cockrock guitar vibe somehow and will still be looking further into better sci-fi type stuff. Unfortunately the movie soundtrack is pretty slow so only good for parts. Maybe I ll check out the other movies in the series as well.

Will you include GnR?

3 weeks later
#6755 5 years ago

Some of my plastics are okay, some are yellow. I have bought some replacement plastics from a pinball store (5/6 pices) and not added them yet.
I will be replacing them all with this new set. Might be a little crazy, but I would like to have the exact same color on all my plastics and same quality.
So my one will be up for sale shortly after

2 months later
#6844 5 years ago

Can someone with the original backbox give me measurements for the three yellow "lines" on this image? I forgot to measure and have to install new decals. Would be great help so I can align perfectly.

IMG_6271 (resized).JPGIMG_6271 (resized).JPG
#6850 5 years ago
Quoted from zimbakin:

What are the 3 yellow lines? I don't have those on my back box, so not exactly sure what you want measured?

Sorry if they where not so visible

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 08.26.16 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2018-10-24 at 08.26.16 (resized).png
1 month later
#6903 5 years ago

I am about to install a beautiful T2 repro playfield.
But what drills/tools do I need to buy to prepare all the holes etc.?
I think I read about a restoration guy in here who where selling a "pack" with all the tools needed but can't find the thread/person.

1 month later
#6981 5 years ago

Have many of you changed the leg brackets to the "new style" on your T2? Are there only benefits by doing it?

#6988 5 years ago

I have talked good about Buthamburgs products many times. Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. I took a picture where they are side by side and I hope you can see my point. I have bought from pinball.center and PinballPT and both does not have same deep black as Buthamburg. Also there’s are not sharp at all! Hope the picture speaks for it self.
I am really happy about installing he’s decals they look and feel like the real deal!
Just want you to know before they go out of stock.

1659426A-B93B-48AB-89AB-39DD0D782E83 (resized).jpeg1659426A-B93B-48AB-89AB-39DD0D782E83 (resized).jpeg
#6989 5 years ago

Here’s a picture Buthamburg it installed close up.

4BEB6643-E5ED-4F35-8CC0-971E9FE17C8D (resized).jpeg4BEB6643-E5ED-4F35-8CC0-971E9FE17C8D (resized).jpeg

#6991 5 years ago
Quoted from grimholtz:

[quote]Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. [/quote]
Where to buy? I dont see it at https://pinballpt.com

I bought a full cabinet decal set from PinballPT and some inner decals. I sold the cabinet set when I saw that I could get a better product. I kept the inner decals so that’s what I am comparing with on the photo. But looking at the quality I might just put them in the trash.
It’s some time ago I bought them. I am not sure if they where listed back then or if I asked via email (because of license issues) but bought them from them.

#6999 5 years ago

Are people using LED flashers for this game? If, what are you using? What brand? Colored?
Please share your experience - will be a great help for me I am very much in doubt..

#7003 5 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Are these better than the silk screened ones from planetary?

They are silk screened.
“Due to Silk Screening, These decals have the fluorescent orange red. Colors and Print are perfect.”
That’s what’s make the superior compared to printed decals that I have previously bought.
I think maybe planetary is reselling he’s product? (He got the official license to do them) You can ask them.

#7004 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Just my opinion but cool white flashers are a must for this title. You can use the tower type or the flat ones. Keep all of them the same color. The light show at the end of the game is fantastic. the only incandescent lights I have in it is at the Auto Fire. When I got the pin it had led flashers in it but was blinding while playing. Everything else is color matched in the inserts.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Great input. Thank you very much

#7015 5 years ago
Quoted from Mad3007:

Hi all,
just finished my T2 with custom satin finished decals a lot of chrome and stainless steel [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How much did you pay to get the apron chromed?

#7030 5 years ago

Is this right?
I thought the metal should touch the wood everywhere? I must admit I am a little nervous about installing them.
Maybe one of you have a close up image of them installed in there T2?

3E276577-67EF-42AD-A225-D56BCE23518B (resized).jpeg3E276577-67EF-42AD-A225-D56BCE23518B (resized).jpeg
#7033 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

The T2 has the older system 11 style leg brackets. It’s just a flat threaded metal piece. The one you have were made mostly after 91. And yes, it should sit in there flush but still should work. Just make sure you align it the best you can.
[quoted image]

I know and I still have the originals. But I have read that the newer styled brackets where better. So I bought them to take better care of my T2.

Quoted from KJS:

I always adjust the new brackets in a big bench vice to suit each machinethey vary alot!

So you adjust the sides until all three sides touch the wood? I am unsure If I can bend them enough so the side with the bolt holes can touch wood.
Do you have a image of the new style installed?

#7036 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

The wooden piece in the center is too narrow for the metal bracket to fit flush. There is no way you can manipulate enough to get the newer piece to fit flush with the cabinet on all three sides. You can add a shim of wood in the center to fill the gap, maybe a paint can stirring stick cut and drilled to size might be close. The new design you have is the best version, since the threaded part is reinforced and therefore less likely to strip. If it was me and I wanted the new design, I would try to glue in a wooden piece to fill the gap, then redrill the holes, and paint to finish. But if your power supply is mounted like mine, you will need to move it over some for it to fit of course.

Quoted from jibmums:

While that bracket may not fit flush due to the triangular brace in the cabinet not being large enough, from your photo it also looks like the bracket itself was not bent correctly. When you have one edge of the bracket flush up against the inside of the cab, the other edge should also be flush, but yours looks like it was bent at about 95°-100° instead of a 90° right angle. If so, even if you shim it, it's still not going to bolt in securely.

Thank you both for your help.
So it sounds like I have to bend it and also add a piece of wood between the bracket and the cabinet before it will fit as it should. "Funny" enough I asked the store before I ordered if they would fit and was told "yes".

Right now I feel like I will trash them and use the original ones. I am doing a complete restoration so just wanted the "best" now when everything was taken apart. But guess this might not be the best after all..

#7040 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

That's a pretty thick piece of metal, I doubt you'd be able to bend it even slightly unless you either use a metal press or are Superman. I'd contact wherever you bought it and have them send you a replacement, just take some photos to show them that it wasn't made correctly.

This is there answer:
“If it is an old cabinet, the wood might have warped a bit.
Can you screw in the bolts for the legs? If yes, you can carefully screw it tighter till leg is fixed.”

I dont feel my cabinet I warped at all. Forcing them in like he says sounds dangerous to me?

#7043 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yeah, I wouldn't force it either. Metal vs Wood, metal wins every time, you don't want to split the corner of the cabinet. Should be easy enough to see if your part is bent at the wrong angle, check it on a piece of graph paper or even just the corner of a piece of paper. Your cabinet would have to have warped really REALLY badly to allow that much of a gap.

You are a genius! They are not 90degrees at all I hope you can see it on the image.

Also this forum is pure awesome! Thank you for all the help..

Should I try and make them fit or should I demand my money back and buy somewhere else? (Because I hope they normally are fine?)

033E3C94-E69A-42CA-81FA-9432CEAFD289 (resized).jpeg033E3C94-E69A-42CA-81FA-9432CEAFD289 (resized).jpeg7DC27E1B-E25D-4C58-B37E-DCFB668640B2 (resized).jpeg7DC27E1B-E25D-4C58-B37E-DCFB668640B2 (resized).jpeg
#7055 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I completed my shop job including a little paint restoration over the weekend.

Did you clearcoat that or put mylar over? If not it will not last...

#7061 5 years ago

Does anyone have these sideblades installed:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/t2
I would love to see an image of them in a machine

#7067 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

I'm about to order them...

Please take picture and share here when installed

3 months later
#7224 4 years ago

Anyone know where I can buy these two stickers?

0E4B8391-FD3F-4D5D-BFF2-B8DAEA7A22EE (resized).jpeg0E4B8391-FD3F-4D5D-BFF2-B8DAEA7A22EE (resized).jpeg
#7227 4 years ago

Hello T2 friends.

I installing new ground wire and cant remember how the wire is attached to the lock in the backbox. Can anyone tell me or have a picture?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7229 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

It's just screwed between lock assembly and wood.
My suggestion is, to drill the screw through the wire and fix it between lock assembly and wood
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you

1 week later
#7233 4 years ago

What battery solution should I use to replace this?
Are people using the nvram? Or?

I am not a fan of the remote battery holder. Not that it does not work but would rather have another solution for my beloved T2.

#7236 4 years ago
Quoted from athenspin:

I have NV Ram in several of my games. No complaints and no changing batteries!!

Quoted from Schwaggs:

NVRAM is cheap on WPC and up games. The chip with the serial number sticker is the RAM chip that you would replace with NVRAM. Biggest risk is pulling the RAM chip and soldering in a socket. The traces on WPC era boards are small and fragile. I suggest finding someone with experience to perform the installation. If you are in the Atlanta area, I'll do it for you!

Thank you both!
Where did you buy yours? A link would be a great help ☺️

#7243 4 years ago

What is your experience?
Is it worth upgrading the speakers when I am still using the original soundboard?

I find must speaker sets for T2 a little expensive so would like to know if its worth it.

1 week later
#7286 4 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

I should have taken before photos before the cleaning. I had to wire brush the scum out of the once black grip. Gross...
The fricken gun off the game is heavier than most real guns. Do some games have plastic guns or are they all metal?[quoted image]

Goldeneye has a black plastic gun.

2 weeks later
#7307 4 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

My plastics are yellowed slightly from either smoke or sun damage I am not sure. What would be the best thing to try and bring these back mean green and some novus?

I have bought a licensed set and it looks great. There are some still in stock fx. Here https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/7695/s/terminator-2-plastic-set/category/155/

3 weeks later
#7341 4 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. Where can I buy one?

2 weeks later
#7368 4 years ago

Hi,
When I toke my T2 apart 4 years ago I forgot to take a picture of where the plastic where the glass slides under the siderails where placed. Do someone have an image or can tell me the distance?

636C071D-6098-4D02-8E17-30E198E1F904 (resized).jpeg636C071D-6098-4D02-8E17-30E198E1F904 (resized).jpeg
#7370 4 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Easy. Just slide the channel all the way to the back.

Thank you!

#7374 4 years ago

I need some help.. again..
Has any one installed the "newer style lockdown bar receiver"?

My old T2 one was in very bad shape so I bought a new one. The only one I could find in EU was the new style one.
I think I had read somewhere that I could install the new style one without any issues.
But now I have tried and it does not seem to align up correclty?

Has anyone installed newer style lockdown bar receiver in a T2? And can you give advice? Or have I just wasted 110 euro

Receiver (resized).jpgReceiver (resized).jpg
#7376 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

I need some help.. again..
Has any one installed the "newer style lockdown bar receiver"?
My old T2 one was in very bad shape so I bought a new one. The only one I could find in EU was the new style one.
I think I had read somewhere that I could install the new style one without any issues.
But now I have tried and it does not seem to align up correclty?
Has anyone installed newer style lockdown bar receiver in a T2? And can you give advice? Or have I just wasted 110 euro [quoted image]

No T2 members have changed there lockdown bar receiver?

2 weeks later
#7395 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Have any of you had to repaint any of the bright orange keylines around your playfield inserts? If so, what brand and color did you use, and how close a match was it?

You can get perfect match with createx fluorescent. I also think there Vid also talks about it in he’s playfield thread. (Might be wrong. But read about it when I had to do it)

#7397 4 years ago
Quoted from Brendo78:

Hi T2 owners I’m building a T2 from scratch and have a playfield and cabinet. I’m after any spare parts you might be willing to sell. Ramps , rails, assemblies, plastics anything you can spare. I’m in Australia and got the $$$ for shipping So if you’re willing to help me out let me know what you have cheers Brendan

Should it be NOS? Or can it be used? Mint or with damages?

#7410 4 years ago

Has anyone done a T2 Playfield swap?

What would you recommend:
Have the playfield in the cabinet or outside the cabinet while populating it?

I would like to do minimal damage on the cabinet etc.

Ps. if you have done a thread with images of the process, please share a link

1 month later
#7465 4 years ago

Do someone know what size t-nut that are used to hold the plastic close to the flippers? (2*3)
Image has the original one and one I thought was the right one (a little to big)

A3E58417-2658-4F55-BA4F-93CC557E227D (resized).jpegA3E58417-2658-4F55-BA4F-93CC557E227D (resized).jpeg
#7467 4 years ago

I guess it must be that one then as I have tried the other two
Thanks!

#7479 4 years ago

Hi,
I need to order new rubbers for my T2 restoration.
What should I buy? The standard sets must shops have? Or something else? If - please share image and pro/cons

1 week later
#7488 4 years ago

Can someone please help me with a part number or name of the screw on the image. It seems to be used a lot on this game?

screw (resized).PNGscrew (resized).PNG
#7490 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Phillips round head wood screw. Might be #6 or #8. I'm not sure on the length.

You are a champ!

Looks like this?
4106-01033-08

#7494 4 years ago

Anyone installed T2 PinBlades?

Would love to see them installed. Thinking about buying.

Screen Shot 2019-10-28 at 08.12.17 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-10-28 at 08.12.17 (resized).png
#7501 4 years ago

Can someone please help me.
I can’t figure out if there should be a washer on the top side when mounting the rails of if there is only a washer under the playfield?

48F233B1-D825-4B7C-A09E-E56C68941182 (resized).jpeg48F233B1-D825-4B7C-A09E-E56C68941182 (resized).jpeg
#7504 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Typically always a washer on top or when tightened the rail will dig into the art work in short order.

Quoted from the_one:

I do mount clear plastic washers usually.
Regards Patric

Thank you both for fast replies

2 weeks later
#7526 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Anybody have any favorite art blades they'd like to share pics for on T2?
Full mirror blades seem pretty cool for this machine, but curious what people have tried.
Thanks!
G

I would also love to see.
I am in doubt about what to buy...

#7531 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Those do look pretty sick. Definitely leaning towards these!

But does anyone have a picture of them installed?

#7533 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

I ended up ordering the non-mirror ones here: https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/terminator-2-pinball-sideblades/?fbclid=IwAR05OPij14P5DsjoySRDIScMmvY9XUk2X2Hn09zjMISsE6VxAepzuJ2YBvU
There's some shots in the gallery of them installed, but I'll take some pics when I put mine in.

Thank you

Do you know if it is the correct fluorescent orange? Or just red...
Why did you not choose the mirror?

#7543 4 years ago

When I picked up my T2 it had a yellow post here and was told that it was correct. It was something Steve often did.
Is this correct? Do anyone else have a yellow post here?
I can see that the rubber kit from pinball.center also has a yellow post in the kit.

D8C74C46-3C0E-4320-AA23-7A9268759A69 (resized).jpegD8C74C46-3C0E-4320-AA23-7A9268759A69 (resized).jpeg
#7545 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Here is a pic, as I was tearing a T2 down for resto, yellow appears to be correct.[quoted image]

Thank you!
It just seems strange. Only yellow post on the game..

#7547 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Here is a pic, as I was tearing a T2 down for resto, yellow appears to be correct.[quoted image]

Btw. wonder why your special insert is white? is it the same on the other side?

#7550 4 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

Mine's black and my special insert is red on both the PF in the game and the restored PF

Mine are also red in both sides on both my playfields.
Wonder if they changed “design” during production?

#7557 4 years ago

Anyone who has a good picture on how the metal for the light in pop bumpers are connected? I know some where soldered together.

8E671FF8-C9F6-45E4-B687-D732F15B1A37 (resized).jpeg8E671FF8-C9F6-45E4-B687-D732F15B1A37 (resized).jpeg
#7560 4 years ago
Quoted from aztarac:

You're in luck - just got done stripping a playfield. Hope this helps- white wires from the harness were soldered at the 'V' in the metal tabs at the bottom of the picture (by the t-nut) and the yellow wire was soldered at the 'T' in the metal tabs in the middle of the picture.[quoted image]

Thats perfect! Thank you so much

#7563 4 years ago

Anyone know a place that has this in stock? (I think its the right one forT2)

Screen Shot 2019-12-06 at 11.43.49 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-12-06 at 11.43.49 (resized).png
1 week later
#7575 4 years ago

When looking at my two Ball Eject Assemblies one has a AE-26-1200 and the other one has AE-26-1500.
When I look at the manual it says AE-26-1500 for both (unless I am reading it wrong?)

Has a previous owner installed the wrong coil? (the one on the left to get the ball in play)

left (resized).pngleft (resized).png
1 week later
#7623 4 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

As long as it isnt too pricey to order that tiny piece I will get one.
Im going to pin the solenoids with QCs if I feel up to it, else they'll just get re-soldered. The ball trough cliffy didnt have adhesive but it'll get put on when the time comes. Which at this pace will be the Christmas after next -_-

I don’t know if it is any help.
But I started my T2 restoration 4 years ago! (Had two kids meanwhile so lots of stand stills in progress)
Currently I am doing the playfield swap maybe working one hour each evening before bed. DAMN it takes a lot of time. One thing is resoldering and remounting components another is also polishing parts etc. I knew it would take time but I am still chocked on how much time it takes!!
Just wanted to let you know you are not alone
C0B785F2-2784-4CD6-9514-72E11E2DA044 (resized).jpegC0B785F2-2784-4CD6-9514-72E11E2DA044 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#7634 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Finished the BackPlex today, I only have to install a small protective strip and a LED backlight.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I have not seen this "mod" before. What is the idea with the plexiglass? Will you light it up or?

#7636 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Yes. it will be illuminated with LED.

Nice!
Hope you will share an image when done?

Also, where can I buy it? Or can I make it my self if I can buy the sticker?

#7642 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Sure, you can make it on your own.
Please find attached dimension sheet and decal.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you so much - this is perfect!
What material are you printing that sticker on? Something I can get on eBay.de
I think I might have to go to my printshop to have it printed on vinyl. Because of the width

#7659 4 years ago

Need help.
I am in doubt about the rubbers/posts on my game. I think mine might have been changed from stock at some point.
Should there be one or two large rubbers between the two posts?

Mine only had one - but I have a feeling there should be two?

IMG_7481 (resized).jpgIMG_7481 (resized).jpg
#7664 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

And consider the outer red lane guides.
The have flaps only on the inside... in that case you have a better illuminiation next to the plastics.
Often lane guides with two flaps will be used but that's not how the machine left the factory.

Thank you.
All mine had two flaps As you said. But changing that to stock as well
I guess it was duo to limited parts by the operator.

#7665 4 years ago

Love the new plasticset!

549828D7-48ED-4BB1-BE8A-E540D8DEB77B (resized).jpeg549828D7-48ED-4BB1-BE8A-E540D8DEB77B (resized).jpeg
#7667 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

What are you doing with the old plastics? I am looking for just the clear ones.

I will try and sell it as a complete used plasticset.

#7670 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballer247:

How much for the complete set?

How much is it worth? 50$? or is that too much?

#7673 4 years ago

Feel stupid...
How do I change the coil on this mech?
I can’t figure it out and would like not to break anything.

CA8ECBC0-9B58-4D0B-8637-5EF5A4BCED3C (resized).jpegCA8ECBC0-9B58-4D0B-8637-5EF5A4BCED3C (resized).jpeg
#7675 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

There is a small roll pin on the black VUK, just use small pliers or a roll pin punch, and pull it out, then assembly breaks down easy, see my pic[quoted image]

thank you!

#7687 4 years ago

Has anyone installed this or similar?
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/9434/playfield-protector-for-terminator-2

I got a new repro playfield with nice clear coat. But the protector is “cheap” and I am thinking about if it is a good idea to add even more protection?
Or is it overkill and have some kind of negative effect on the game..

1 week later
#7693 4 years ago

What happend to all the details on this repro sticker I bought? (Look at the shoulder etc. )

Anyone know a place in Europe where I can pay a better one?
1F318C73-13A2-4F8C-8973-11E17530BBC7 (resized).jpeg1F318C73-13A2-4F8C-8973-11E17530BBC7 (resized).jpeg

#7696 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

What happend to all the details on this repro sticker I bought? (Look at the shoulder etc. )
Anyone know a place in Europe where I can pay a better one?
[quoted image]

Or are people doing something else when replacing the drop target?

#7708 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Kinda a dumb question but how hard is a playfield swap on this game. I got some planking in certain spots, chipping graphics on the inserts and such. Are the new playfields as good as the original. Would i be better off getting the current one restored?

I am in the middle of the process and was in the same situation.
Restoration nearly costed the same as the new playfield. I bought a new and have not regretted it. Inserts are bright and nice etc. not cloudy etc. as a restored one typical have. Overall it’s great quality repro.
This is my first playfield swap. I don’t find it hard. Just time consuming. (Polishing and cleaning all the parts)

2 weeks later
#7733 4 years ago

I am really starting to get annoyed about the poor quality of reproduction parts.
First I had the decal for the drop target that was *hit. But now I also have a speaker panel that is *hit. Colors are off (Way to bright) and printet text are blurry etc.
Why do they make so bad reproductions? Its not like the technology has gotten worse the last 30 years! "!#€%"#€%

If anyone know where to get OK reproductions of:
1. Drop target decal.
2. Speaker panel.

Please please please let me know

#7735 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I feell your pain, it's really disappointing when the item you've bought (including paying $$ for shipping) turns out to be such poor quality ... you don't want to use it and nor do you want to sell it to someone else. And how many times do you try in sourcing a product to get what you should have got the first time round?
I'll have to double check my speaker panel and target decal I have ready for use and see how they compare

Exactly! Its waste of time and money and worst of all its frustrating.
I bought the speaker panel 4 years ago and was excited to be ready to install it... Now I feel like burning it or driving over it with a car.
When speaking to shops who sell it. It is like they know it is crap, but they rather sell crap than nothing. I guess some people dont care og they dont get enough complaints...

1 week later
#7740 4 years ago

If you get a new playfield. Make sure to get new plastic as well. I am glad I did!
The colors are matching so much better than my camera can catch.

26DA856C-5690-4F13-A383-1ADA5EF3085A (resized).jpeg26DA856C-5690-4F13-A383-1ADA5EF3085A (resized).jpeg50EDC2F3-29EB-477A-BF04-30C72565332C (resized).jpeg50EDC2F3-29EB-477A-BF04-30C72565332C (resized).jpeg5B67631B-AD28-4A29-9974-D96F56F5CE2B (resized).jpeg5B67631B-AD28-4A29-9974-D96F56F5CE2B (resized).jpeg
#7742 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

What are you doing with old plastics? Selling any?

Yes, all.

#7746 4 years ago

Need help from this awesome club!

The two top black spacers used where I marked with yellow. What size should they be? On my machine two different lengths are used...
Maybe a image from the side would also be very help full.

IMG_7827 (resized).jpgIMG_7827 (resized).jpgspacer (resized).pngspacer (resized).png
#7749 4 years ago

Thank you both. Sound like it’s original to have both sizes at once so it will have an angle.

I have another question that I hope to get help with. The spacer over the flasher does not do anything at all. But it was like that when I disassembled it?
The whole skull area seems a little strange. If someone has pictures around the skull please share them.

6C4A3C86-05C5-4B62-8505-2B01807261FF (resized).jpeg6C4A3C86-05C5-4B62-8505-2B01807261FF (resized).jpeg
#7752 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

What harig said. Looks like it just holds up the clear plastic.
[quoted image]

I see - thank you!
But its longer than the two the clear plastic is mounted with? Is that correct?

#7754 4 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Yes correct, it is longer than the two.
yours is just Upside down..

Thank you so much.
Do you also have an image from behind?
My plastics are VERY tight and overlapping in the back. I can’t see what’s wrong?

959F2947-DAB8-4977-9E81-66A95B90B428 (resized).jpeg959F2947-DAB8-4977-9E81-66A95B90B428 (resized).jpegA60121FE-20F1-4509-935C-C44AE119B498 (resized).jpegA60121FE-20F1-4509-935C-C44AE119B498 (resized).jpegF72F2DE8-A4D1-4962-A08B-A270AF321DA1 (resized).jpegF72F2DE8-A4D1-4962-A08B-A270AF321DA1 (resized).jpeg
#7756 4 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Sorry I don't have Pics....just disassambled mine.
What Skull do you have? Repainted Original or Loot crate?

Original skull.

#7759 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Here's a few more of mine, hope this helps. Excuse the dirt, pre-shop photos.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you. That’s perfect.
Looks like your plastics are not overlapping behind like mine are.
Now I just have to figure out if it is the left of right plastic who makes the problem.

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

You have the hole location incorrect, or your screw is at an angle into the playfield.

Playfield was pre drilled but they can be wrong. What puzzled me was that I can’t figure out what is wrong.

#7761 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I bought repro plastics and noticed my plastics were a tight fit.

Original silk screened or?

#7763 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

From the German supply house who did the playfield and plastics

That’s the same as mine!!
Could you please share what you adjusted to get it to work? Because you holes in plastic and playfield should be the same as mine

#7764 4 years ago

Thank you all that helped on the right track. Had to make new holes to make it fit. What a pain in the *utt..

#7766 4 years ago

I am Really thankful for all the help I get in this forum. A complete restoration gives a lot of Questions.

The left main ramp. What size/type rivets are used? I would like to take mine apart to polish it really good.

DFC56ECD-3E0A-4D57-99D5-4A77BA96B14E (resized).jpegDFC56ECD-3E0A-4D57-99D5-4A77BA96B14E (resized).jpeg
#7770 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Lot's of places have rivits.
PinRestore has rivits as well as presses and dies if you need that sort of thing:
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

i am looking at there master kit.
But what tool should I use for them?
I have never done rivets this way.

1 week later
#7778 4 years ago

Has anyone bought a new main ramp for there T2 and still own the machine? I would like to know how well it fitted your game.

#7784 4 years ago

Need help with the left ramp:
- What screws are used for the ramp to be mounted in the backplate?
- There is a small laneguide just after the five white targets. Should this guide be on the inside or outside of the ramp?

I have not pictures of those two places So need help once again.

IMG_8022 (resized).jpgIMG_8022 (resized).jpgIMG_8023 (resized).jpgIMG_8023 (resized).jpg
#7786 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The lane guide goes on the inside of the ramp. The screws are #8-32 I believe.

Thank you!

#7792 4 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I also believe screws are 8-32. Here's a couple pictures I took before delving into my current playfield swap.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you.
It does not look like the lane guide is on the inside of your ramp. Is that correct?

rail (resized).PNGrail (resized).PNG
#7795 4 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

In this picture from last night, the post is not installed nor the ramp. But it does show the lane guides installed. Not sure if that helps or not.[quoted image]

Thank you. But it is actually the angle/placement of this metal piece.

40FE3A18-CC88-42D6-9943-8510A41923B2 (resized).jpeg40FE3A18-CC88-42D6-9943-8510A41923B2 (resized).jpeg
#7797 4 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Got it. This is the only picture I've got from that angle that might show what your looking for. It's not a close up, but at least shows that guide with the ramp installed.[quoted image]

That’s perfect. It’s “behind” the ramp.
Now I have two different answers?

#7801 4 years ago

Case closed!
Thank you all very much.

I will make it go inside the ramp then

#7804 4 years ago

I am having big issues with my new ramp. No matter what I do I can’t get it to fit. Specially the ramp protectors can not be mounted. They have wrong angle and are way to high up from the post. Its to wide and to tall. I dont get it...
What is wrong??? I hope its just me who does not know how to mount it correctly.
Please help...
1 (resized).jpeg1 (resized).jpeg11 (resized).jpeg11 (resized).jpeg

#7807 4 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Maybe the repro ramp has higher sidewalls thus the protectors do not fit?

Height seems to be around the same as the original a little taller. Maybe because of the thicker plastic? But he has sold hundred of the ramps so I can't be the only one with this problem.
Are there something I dont understand about the protectors and mounting this ramp in general? I am really puzzled about this. Cant figure it out..

#7810 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

That ramp is way too thick at the front and looks too tall. Are your 2 front metal original to the game?
Here is my game, original ramp and post.[quoted image]

I think they are original.
Here are som shots from different angels.
IMG_8072 (resized).jpgIMG_8072 (resized).jpgIMG_8073 (resized).jpgIMG_8073 (resized).jpgIMG_8074 (resized).jpgIMG_8074 (resized).jpgIMG_8075 (resized).jpgIMG_8075 (resized).jpgIMG_8076 (resized).jpgIMG_8076 (resized).jpg

I guess I could drill new playfieldholes and maybe move it a little to the left. But it will not help on the height?

#7812 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Who ever made that ramp messed it up. The one side is a rolled edge compared to the other side. Bummer all the way around.

Its made from the original tools. The only one available:
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Terminator-2-Ramp

#7813 4 years ago

Seems right

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7815 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If they've made the base of the ramp (ie under the flap) thicker , then the whole ramp will sit higher as they can't reduce the height of the sides due to the ramp protectors needing to sit on the inside of the ramp itself. Do you have the original ramp to compare directly?
Maybe worth checking with Larry at Starship Fantasy, as something is amiss here

I still have the original ramp and that fits fine.
I have written to Larry but I have not heard back.
If the thickness is a general problem I would love to know how other people have solved this problem when installing it.
I really need a new one as my original is very damaged.

#7816 4 years ago

- Has no one in here replaced their ramp? Would LOVE to hear what’s wrong.
- or am I just unlucky and got a faulty ramp?

#7818 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Working on my T2 and I have a new ramp from Straship Fantasy.
It's not complete mounted yet, but testwise no issues so far.
Starship is the only manufacturer for these licenced parts and they always use original forms.
They don't sell unready parts.

Could you please share some images where I can see the spacing between the posts with the side protectors? Where I have my main issue.
Would also love to see your top right mount?
Where did you buy it?
Wonder why mine has issues...

#7820 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Bought mine from PinWitch Germany and she got them from Starship Fantasy, there's no other manufacturer for this ramps.
Here some pictures, but as I said, not complete.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you. You are great help!
So when the side protectors are on. Do they touch the posts where they should mount? Or are there large gap between like mine making them impossible to mount?

On the image it looks like the ramp is to much to the right like mine. But can’t see if you line it up correctly with the holes in the playfield.

#7822 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Well, I have checked it and in my opinion the ramp doesn't fit to 100 %.
Depending on the angle to the height the left side is perfect and the protector is ecactly in position.
The right side is a little bit different, but it's possible to bend the edge to mount the protector to the post.
It's recommended to use a hot air gun to bend the ramp on the right side more to the middle.
The original ramp is made of thinner material and easier to fit. The new ramp is "reinforced" and maybe this is the reason why it doesn't fit at all?

It’s here it does not fit. Look at the distance between the metal and the post.
Does your fit there?
Mine is about 1 cm to high. Can never bend it down that much.

DC041422-1848-4AE1-9E4E-E13B392B27E4 (resized).jpegDC041422-1848-4AE1-9E4E-E13B392B27E4 (resized).jpeg
#7824 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The ramps are wrong and the mold has to be incorrect. Reach out to Cliffy at passionforpinball and see if he can modify his ramp protectors or can sell you higher rubber post sleeves.

Thank you! Because this is driving me crazy...
I have been thinking about a longer post but the second problem is that its to wide (too large to the right).
What really puzzles me is if there are sold hundred of these ramps. Are only some(mine) wrong or or have all made custom stuff to make it fit?
Would love to have confirmation from some who has installed it and it just "dropped in". Thats why I am very excited that Averell has one.

Still waiting for an reply from Larry..

#7826 4 years ago

Thank you very much.
Looks like mine is wrong/wrose? But very strange if he uses the same mold?

Would you mind measuring the inner width of the ramp in the end and the height of the side close to the post? I can then compare with mine - would be great great help. (need to send it back very soon if I don't want it)

Quoted from Averell:

Actually the ramp is higher, but only because the edges protrude too far down the side - this could be shortened.

I am not sure where you are talking about. Could you highlight it on the image with a circle or something?

#7829 4 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

What happens if you "test fit" the ramp by removing the rubbers off of the three posts? Can you get it to "nest" into it's spot? Do all the screw holes line up?

If I mount it with the screws in the bottom. The left protector screw is to high but aligned OK. The right is to much to the right and too high.
It is actually not the posts on the left it hits the must but some of the rubbers used in the pop area.
This:

48AA9B50-E413-492A-B5DD-E4C616FF5D73 (resized).png48AA9B50-E413-492A-B5DD-E4C616FF5D73 (resized).png
#7830 4 years ago

I guess I just have to send it back and order another one from a different store. Just don’t understand why they can be so different if they use same original tools.

#7832 4 years ago

My ramp questions have been filling up this thread and sorry for that. But it was just so strange.
I have written to other ramp sellers to try and find one that is fine and got an interesting response today from one seller:

"We are currently looking into this issue with the manufacturer and does not sell any ramps until we have sorted this issue."
"We just received info from the manufacturer to check our T2 ramps."

So it sounds like there are some kind of issues and they(Larry?) are working on sorting it out.

So if someone is looking for a ramp watch out - hopefully they will manufacturer some ramps that are spot on soon.

#7839 4 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Is that so hard to understand?
All ramps come from Starship Fantasy because they have the rights to them - nobody else makes them.
So it doesn't matter who sells them.
If the batch is bad, everyone has the same problem!

I bought two different ramps. They both had different issues and when looking at yours it’s also different.
So it does matter who sells them. If they come from different batches or not does not matter. There are just different versions out there where I thought they all where the same as I though tooling was locked. I was wrong.

#7841 4 years ago

Should the rail be mounted above or under the sling plastic? I have seen both in here. But what is right?

F462D6D4-AD88-4246-A562-E8C75920C2AC (resized).jpegF462D6D4-AD88-4246-A562-E8C75920C2AC (resized).jpeg
#7844 4 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Above, as in the pic. Always above, on any Williams game anyway.

Thank you very much. Mine was under when I bought it.

Quoted from aztarac:

Just finished rebuilding a T2 playfield and I had the same issue with the ramp from Starship Fantasy - it sits higher than the original as others have noted and shown in their pictures. However, I was able to get mine to mount to the posts and get the flap screwed down without too much effort (I didn't feel like I was going to bend or break anything). Perhaps you just got a bad one out of the batch?

I hope so. I have send it back for a refund and hope Larry gets back to me. When he does I will buy a new one that hopefully can be mounted.

#7845 4 years ago

I know I have had a lot of question but I hope some of them can also help others one day.

The right rail puzzles me.. Is it correct that it should rest/touch the right plastic? It seems like the two mounting points is not enough to hold it up from touching the plastic? Or am I missing something?

I have added a lot of washers on the slingshot mounting to get it higher so it touches less. But I know that is not original and that is what I would like it to be.

IMG_8127 (resized).jpgIMG_8127 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7854 4 years ago

I started my T2 restoration 5 years ago and today I fired it up for the first time. What a feeling!

I need some debug help.
Some insert light are not lighting and some a lighting constantly where they should blink. (Mabe ca. 15%)
What is the common course for this? How should I debug it?

Example of one light acting up:

#7856 4 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

Swap that bulb with the one next to it. If the problem stays in the same spot, its likely a trace on that little PCB or possibly wiring to that PCB. If the problem moves its the bulb.
Shouldnt the center target be red? and you should tweak their positions

Switching bulbs does not help.

It looks like its this row.
Should I look for connector 133?
Because my 133 only has one wire?

Also my left side GI is not working (have changed from 120 to 121 without any luck) But I guess thats another problem.
IMG_8265 (resized).jpgIMG_8265 (resized).jpgrow (resized).PNGrow (resized).PNG

I just thought that if a row had trouble there where no light? Here there are light its just strange/abnormal

#7858 4 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

My T2 restoration is coming along pretty well. Been working on the cabinet in between playfield work. This "new" skull is a piece of crap. Has anyone used a better mod? Maybe 3D printed or something along those lines.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Its hard to tell. But looks like the shape is correct but the makeup/paint job is crap.
Can you maybe save it by painting the black better and giving it teeth?

#7859 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Switching bulbs does not help.
It looks like its this row.
Should I look for connector 133?
Because my 133 only has one wire?
Also my left side GI is not working (have changed from 120 to 121 without any luck) But I guess thats another problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I just thought that if a row had trouble there where no light? Here there are light its just strange/abnormal

I unplugged the skull eyes and now all lights work as they should. I guess I have to check for a short and maybe the diode on the skull.

#7864 4 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

I've never seen one with a red target (or light) there, even back in the day playing it on locations.

I have never seen one with red target. The original did not have one and the reproduction does not have one.
I can use a red led if it was normal? But never heard or seen it before.

#7869 4 years ago

How bright should the four CPU lights in the middle be? I find mine a lot dimmer than the rest of the lamps.
Is this normal? Seems odd.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
4,999
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 21.95
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
4,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Cleveland, OH
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Invasion
 
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Decals
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 36.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 39.99
Rubber/Silicone
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
 
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 9.95
$ 12.99
Playfields
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
 
$ 27.95
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
266 posts in this topic match your search for posts by tezting. You are on page 1 of 2.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tezting.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only?tu=tezting and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.