Neat John- That pin has been played plenty, it's too bad. Never seen a proto besides the video where Steve Ritchie shows off the pin. Really cool red light boards, no decal at the cannon and blue side panels/blue backside. Without looking, different speaker grille too?

and in other news- Exactly how many stock images of the t-1000 are in/on the Pin? I think I've counted three. The right side plastic, the back wall decal and a dmd animation- anyone see any more?

i'm thinking liquid nitrogen tanker replica (lit up) mod
Where it can go, no idea yet lol- maybe the shooter lane

I had the chrome bats on a previous T2 (Less than 6 months ago) I think I bought them from pinball life- Gave them a good pounding for many many games and never had an issue with them.

My current T2 i plan on getting them again- interested to know who has had them break as I just had black lightning bolts break within 2 games on my BSD that obviously were aftermarket. The shop refunded my $ so that was a plus

yep, can happen. Replace with new rubber on the post, can help.

I had one of those T2 arcade games- sold it for a couple hundred after I could not get the 2nd player gun to work. It was such a hard game! Wish I kept it...twice as heavy as a pin too

what number are we at? I need one...lol
Also, who here would be interested in an every so often T2 tournament (honor system, posted scores) ??? thoughts/ideas?

anyone have a link for the all metal hk ship? Haven't seen one for sale

Just wanted to post this and ask just how strong are other peoples flippers? While I've had no trouble making the right ramp, I'm now on my fourth T2 machine and have never had it fly like his does up that right ramp!

He also has a pretty good website at www.aaarpinball.com which includes some T2 restoration tips and tricks as well as some other machines

i got to have a set of those slings! they're much better than stock imo. How much and how do you order? I went to their website but there is no order form?

99% chance yes. Unless someone put a re-imort door on your machine. Sure way to know is look inside, there should be evidence at the transformer clips/line cord of a convert. Not a big deal if the game looks and plays good

Very good to know- wow, marker?

does anyone know where I can find the square left ramp plastic that goes over the metal ramp (image of the T2 head) and a right plastic hand for above the right slingshot?

I really dig color changing 555 bulbs for the cannon standup target inserts. I have blue down at the slings and inlanes, going to do upper area sometime soon along with some in the backbox.

If you're talking about the backbox lights, it's on the driver board-j115. I just did mine, it was a replaced clip but they (previous whoever) wired it wrong! big mistake- it heated up the pin on the connector so much it knocked it out and burned the trace off. I wired it right (wiring combination can be found on the schematics page) and now it runs cool/normal. I had to solder a jumper wire to the burned off pin trace next to the fuise, but all works well now. The other connector this is connected to is j120, check there too. That must be wired right as well. My bet is your j115 is flaking out, it's common. If you need more help, just let me know

that's an easy one, I just took an old clip and wired it in. Check that brown looking fuse too. That stuff is normal, happens from being left on a long, long time when on route

Fuse F107 I believe, runs the cpu payback lamps- check there first

Also, j120 is tied in to your backbox/translight lamps.
My j115 connector clip was replaced. I put in a new driver and within a few games, it melted the pin right off my new driver board because ONE pin got too hot. This translated to someone that wired the clip incorrectly. I had to use the schematics to figure the right combo, then I had to solder a wire on to the trace itself since the pin that melted took that with it. Long story short- make sure your clips are wired right

So many of these 20+ year old T2's have this issue, because many were used in Pizza shops, bars, etc, basically 7 days a week. Leds do run cooler but all the damage was done before leds. In a home setting you'll be good to go once you replace these clips, as long as the pins on the board are okay still. Whenever I have this issue, I just go to my playfield graveyard and wire a clip up

Just replace that fuse if you haven't already. If it's still good, it's bound to blow soon and who needs that to go in the middle of an epic game

That's fuse f106 (5amp slo blow) Which is general illumination (not sure which section) but I believe it's connected to j121. With that said, double check that clip for burn or heat. Also, when you replace the fuse, check to see if it burns up again. If it does, probably a connector issue or a GI short somewhere.

The wire gets pinched in the connector and that's what exposes it to the metal contact in the clip. I believe that requires a tool- what I do is strip the end of the wire, and plastic tube crimp connect it to a good wired clip I took off an old playfield. Makes a firm connection and easy to do, but obviously not ''factory''. Depends how you want to go about it, but I haven't had any issues with it as far as reliability goes.

it's either j115 connector or j120- if the fuse is good

Okay, this may sound more complex than it is, but from your picture there is serious issue with your j115. You need to figure out if the trace lugs are gone from where there are no pins. You can solder to the trace and add a wire to connect to if the trace lugs are gone if replacing a pin is not an option.

Starting with J115, It's a 12 pin clip with pin 9 being the key. From the bottom of the clip, the first pin is yellow/white (does not matter which one) the second pin is a black jumper to the third pin which is a yellow and white also. The 4th pin is a jumper to the 5th pin with a yellow and white. The 6th pin is the last of the yellow and white, yellow and white only. Pin 7, is yellow solid. Pin 8 is yellow solid and jumpers to 10 (9 is key) Pin 11 jumpers to pin 12 and that is yellow solid. So in short, your bottom row of yellow/white wires (4 of them) and your top row of yellow (3) jumpers are in between as shown above.

Keep in mind also, your f107 fuse is good- this runs to both j120 and pin 8 to 10 (with jumper) as shown above. If that pin/trace is bad...you have your answer for CPU lit and general illumination.

My quest for a Billion. Have not done it yet, just put up mid 400 million tonight, current high score is mid 500. On a previous T2 I owned earlier this year, I posted 700 or 800 million, I forget. Stock settings, and abusing the extra ball features is a must. My current is set to wide right outlane.

It's not too hard to get in the few hundred millions, but scoring slows wayyy down when it's more difficult to light your left lane rewards (because the 3 bank targets go out quick) and when it takes multiple shots to hit several targets via the cannon. A way I counter this is to get the right lane lit up to 5 million per shot (love this shot too) early in the game and later as well. Keeping in mind, this is only PER BALL. It goes back to peanuts at balls end. I also find this works great in payback time, because you are getting 5 million for the shot, and 5 million for payback.

Of course, this quest would also gain greatly with a few SUPA JACKPOTS

What ways are others playing/scores?

if you have j120 wired correctly and your fuses are good, then look to j115

tell me exactly where on j120 clip you wired what colors to what- if it's off just a pin left to right, only half will light as you described
I know if it was in front of me I could figure it out in minutes, i just reworked mine last week but it's hard to do over a keyboard

Okay- Now jumper the wires on j120 pins 10 and 11 to pins 10 and 11 on j121. You might get away with putting those just on 121 without 120, but above is how mine is wired and I have had no issues. This should fix it.

Take a bare wire or roach clip and connect the two wires at the end of 120 on the right hand side, directly under to 121's right hand side. (Jumpered) Report back.

Sending a picture of mine really won't help because at the clips it is not jumpered. I traced back several inches and found that it was in fact jumpered to 121 indirectly.

Yes, extend them, and then you can see if all your lights come back on.

try and leave them running through j120, extend to j121

That's what i thought you were doing..

Leave 120 IN- Just affix (nothing concrete) from 120 to 121, pins 10 and 11 and see what happens.

Switch at the ball lock needs adjustment. As for the flipper, check the switch at the flipper button

I don't recall the exact setup, but just check the lock hole and press down with your finger, like the ball would. It should register/hear a slight ''click'' If it doesn't, you need to tweak the switch under it so it does.

I'll be posting a youtube later today of a game I just played on my T2. Just got a new dmd for it, first game was 300 million, a bad game for me lol

Here is the video I took today of me playing my T2
Had a hard time getting the Supa Jackpot...Had a few good shots, one from the left lock random awards was a hurry up and hit the shot right from the eject point.

Okay, it's still the weekend so I'm going to hop on a game and see what I can get for a score. I'll be back ...

Here is my weekend score-

DSC00542.JPG

At the coil, check the linkage and replace the coil sleeve. Should help.

If anyone is interested, I have a full manual set for this game in good condition- $25 includes shipping. This is for both the game manual and the wpc schematics, which came in handy for diagnosing the gi pins on the driver board.

I also have the upper left ramp plastic for $5 extra if you buy the manuals...would be good for modding the eyes with leds

PM me.
Thanks, James

I'm BACK!
(Just picked up another T2 this fine Sunday)
With what looks like a complete spare plastic set in the coin door box...

I know right- I have a lot of reading to catch up on in this thread. It's been awhile

I'm thinking T2 is ready for a software upgrade, something like T1000 combos, or the best upgrade yet- Real music from the film, which was epic. A game over tune of ''You could be mine'' by GN'R. The Payback time music really needs to be music from the film. I always thought that modes music just never fit with the game. All in all though, T2 is a true players pin.

Lots of potential...but who has the skills?

Nope, not normal opreration. Sounds like your roller switch or under playfield cannon switch needs a tweak to either detect home or a ball in the cannon.

Looking forward to my parts coming for mine, so l can quest for a billion points (previous high score is about 770 million).
Nothing too fancy, bought some driver board caps and bridges, plastic protectors to beef up some of the more vulnerable pieces. For now, i'll need to flip back a few pages in this thread to see some of the excellent cleaned up T2's

Nothing compares tp the real deal. The digitals feel way too delayed, though they are great for figuring out the rules...

Does anyone know if the pinsound board works or is downloadable with just the movie/theme music? Without the Arnold impersonator? In other words, with just the movie score, but original Arnold call outs?

Thanks

Well, you know.. there is absolutely no reason to lean over the right side of your machine to judge the shot either.

I mean, to each their own, but the original score from the film is nothing short of Epic.

I'll be working on that original movie soundtrack mixed with the original Arnold quotes, some movie quotes mixed in and ''You could be Mine'' by Guns N' Roses for Payback time, soon.