Terminator 2: Judgment Day
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Just joined the club! (pics to follow).
Super excited about this game.
Unfortunately Im missing the hunter ship and the cannon isnt working right, plus a couple missing plastics.
Parts ORDERED! Ebay had what I needed this time. Im "stoked" to get this game!
Hopefully Ill have it playable soon!
Quoted from Manny65:Just ask if you can't work something out - happy to help
Ok, thanks!
WTF is going on with my skull.
Zip ties and foam rubber?:
skull (resized).jpg
left side (resized).jpgrt side (resized).jpg
Also, he is sitting way too high and the glass is rubbing on him.
He has a crack on top.
What is the best replacement skull?
What are the correct lights for the eyes?
Looks like time for a skull rebuild!
Quoted from docquest:I think thr foam is to prevent balls from getting in there.
Possibly, Ill look at it better when I get it apart.
Also he is suffering from TED. The left eye sticks way out...
What are good looking lamps for the eyes in red perhaps?
My game came with "Plate Glass", lol...
I have already thrown it out and put in tempered.
Quoted from docquest:Pinball life sells some red leds specifically designed for the T2 skull eyes
https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html[quoted image]
Perfect!!!
Just ordered thanks!
I havent pulled it apert yet, Im curious about the zip ties???
I can sort out the foam, thanks for the SB.
My skull is sitting a bit high and hitting the glass.
He is also tilted a bit to the right.
Can anyone see from my pictures if he is mounted correctly?
Quoted from Manny65:It looks to me that the original mounting holes in the skull have cracked and the skull has been “repositioned” on the mounting bracket with some additional assistance of zip ties. Hence why it’s not in the correct position.
Replacement OEM skulls are available but the quality varies. Or you can retrofit a T2 skull - if you search the thread for “loot crate” you’ll see what others have done (I also believe Nemesis is another option)
Ill pull it apart tomorrow and see whats going on.
The cannon problem was due to a ruined battery holder and the game not holding its settings.
I fixed it by putting in a franks coin battery mod in place of the rotten battery holder.
Works perfectly now.
The cannon doesnt search endlessly.
Quoted from Manny65:If the cannon starts playing up again, check the "home" switch on the mech (under the PF). Typically when the cannon swings endlessly or doesn't align with the wireform, then the issue is the "home" switch isn't working on needs adjustment.
Im going to replace all 3 of the old worn out switches tomorrow. I have them in my parts bin.
Meanwhile:
Can someone take pictures of their skull head mounts.
Similar to what I posted? I need a reference, something on my game isnt quite right.
Too many hacks on it...Its difficult to get specifics on how it was originally mounted.
Im pulling it apart tomorrow to examine the ball poppper VUK. Something tells me that its trash.
Quoted from Manny65:In regards to your skull mount, in looking at it on my laptop (rather than my phone) and comparing it to my game they seem to be mounted the same. I'm unsure why someone has drilled the additional holes for the zipties - that's definitely not how it came from the factory. Be aware that the skull mount brackets attach to the plastics on either side, so it's not sturdy and can flex a bit. In addition your left plastic is broken off the front post (near the top of the extra ball insert) which is quite common, however this will make the skull mount even more unstable.
Here's a coupe of pics of mine, and I also threw in one of the Home and At Mark switches in case you need it.
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Thanks for these pics.
This is extremely helpful! I ordered replacement plastics from the guy on Ebay (a very helpful service).
I should have time to replace all of the switches today and begin adjustments.
My cannon gearbox has a bit of slop ( 1/2" as others have reported) in the gearbox and needs cleaning and lubing,
Its a bit expensive to replace the gearbox and I am unclear as to whether the slop in it is a critical failure point, or normal.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It appears that the mech has disassembled itself, but where are the parts?[quoted image]
Impossible to reach!
My retrieval robot wants to help:
part retrieval robot (resized).jpg
Good job robot!
VUK needs a little TLC.
Some corrosion:
corroded bracket (resized).jpg
Cleaned up a bit and passivised with some Flitz for now, and added the missing rubber grommet bumper:
passivised for now (resized).jpg
Assembled the switch and molexed the wires. (Ill change the switch wire molex next week, to a mini-fit jr so there is no confusion down the road...)
Ready to install:
molexed and ready to install (resized).jpg
I tested it and it works well enough.
I now see what the foam rubber was for, that I questioned earlier.
This broken off plunger, and missing popper cap will certainly launch the ball into the skull head directly all the time.
Next week it will be fixed properly.
Quoted from pinballinreno:While waiting for a new plunger and ball popper "cap".
Ill continue on the cannon switches.
The 2 switches below the playfield, Mark and Home were bad.
switch locations (resized).jpg
Its super easy to replace them if you just mark the "Mark" switch location with a sharp pencil before removing it.
They come out as a pair and have connectors that you can just disconnect.
They are just regular DB3 or DB5 micro switches, it pays to have spares of these "just in case", they are used everywhere! I buy them by the bag of 100 if they are on sale for $2.
It looks like they have been replaced a couple times.
Installation was easy and only required that the Home switch be adjusted "live" while in gun test mode.
When the cannon goes as far as it can to the right, just stop it, raise the playfield and adjust the Home switch until it "just registers" Home..
My Mark switch is currently adjusted where the old one was.
I "may" dial it in better, but the 2 games I played were fast and fun and I could hit most of the targets.
The lower left "Stand-up" was crushed on my game and had to be rebuilt to get it to work. It was super corroded and looked like it hasnt worked for years. I use Flitz on a q-tip to clean gold contacts.
Ill take a look at my "mark" settings and make sure that one can make the lower switch shot from the cannon.
It may be set a little high...
Today was the first time I could actually play a game!
This game is AMAZING!
Its tons of fun and not like any of the other games in my collection.
i bought the game broken and didnt pay much for it.
It had been sitting for 11 years, unplayable.
Im super happy to get it running without any super high expenses,
Im really enjoying it!
Quoted from tripplett:It is a super fun game, Steve Ritchie classic. Great shots, easy rule set for newbies but still has challenge, good sounds and music, etc. Glad you got it running. Hopefully you don’t have any battery acid damage later to deal with. That is common. Take them out and use a coin battery adapter or NVRAM.
No battery leakage! In fact the batteries were removed on this game.
Someone had the forsight to remove them for storage.
The contacts were literally "rotted" off on the battery holder.
I used the "franks" coin battery board. They are easy to install and dont have the risks involved from removing the RAM chip.
Personally for "rock solid" performance, the NVRAM is better for the long term, and it can be installed any time, but the coin battery mod is quick and easy.
I used my last one on this, time to order a few more!
They are handy to have "on hand".
Has anyone installed a "lighted" drop target in their game?
What did you use for the decal?
Are there pics of this installed here?
Thanks.
Quoted from bicyclenut:Making progress. Thank you to everyone sharing this skull mod... I think its a must mod for this game.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks amazing!
Which one is this?
Is it this one?:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010MBYJ12/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1
I see a lot of 1/2 scale loot crate skulls on Ebay.
Quoted from bicyclenut:amazon.com link »
This one on page 194 of this thread
Great!
Ill save it for my resto.
Quoted from Averell:Better use this one... sold from an italian guy here on PinSide.
It's printed in Resin and fits in perfect.
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Nice!
My skull is a bit broken up, so Im looking for alternatives.
The Marco one looks terrible.
Im also looking into lighting up the drop target!
Do you have a link or contact info?
Quoted from Averell:Try to get in contact with Dystopic Pinball.
He's located at Modena in Italy.
Here he is:
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/my-pinball-gallery/terminator-2
Quoted from Averell:Yes, chrome is critical and not smear-resistant, so it's better to choose standard look.
Or you save a lot of money and use this dishwasher mod.
[quoted image]
From this picture, I can see how my skull is probably supposed to be mounted!
Quoted from harig:If you have an eprom programmer the files are available for free
I really should get one...
Which one works the best?
My parts came today!
I touched up and rebuilt the skull, it was put together completely wrong, and added the bright light LEDS!
He looks cool now!
Pinballgoddess says he looks like he is wearing spectacles!
Maybe so, Arnold is 75 ths year...
I replaced the broken plastics.
I put small fender washers under the ends of the new plastics hoping that they will survive (crossing my fingers).
I replaced the missing plastic in the center.
Added back in the missing Hunter Ship.
I think it came out pretty good, considering the bland unpainted model that arrived...
I painted in the lines on the ship with an Ultra Fine sharpie.
hunter ship painted (resized).jpg
I repaired the cracks in the skull with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. It should hold up really well.
On the missing Chome that had rubbed off, I just touched it up the an oil based sharpie paint pen.
I aged the paint with a little hand sanitizer on a Kleenex.
I think he looks pretty good with a few battle scars.
more skull touch ups (resized).jpg
hunter ship installed eyes ;it (resized).jpg
Tomorrow, Ill rebuild the left VUK and look for more problems lol!
Im having a BLAST fixing up this game!
Its tons of fun to play if everything is working right 
Im grateful that I could actually buy a replacement Hunter ship for a 32 year old game!
I got it from little shop of games in Florida as it was in stock.
Starship fantasy might have been a better choice, but Im happy with the outcome.
Quoted from tripplett:Never heard of a L3 rom. Is that what it showed at boot up? I thought L8 was the original factory shipped rom. The latest is L8.3 and 8.4 as mentioned above is coming in a few months.
Lol, might be a proto ROM for all I know.
Either way, its L-8 now.
All the parts finally came it to rebuild the VUK.
The plunger is broken off and its missing the popper cap.
begin VUK rebuild (resized).jpg
The cap is installed after the mech is mostly assembled.
Its held on with a small dowel.
Its not super tight and can easily be pushed in with channel locks. If it binds up, its crooked, so straighten it and try again. It doesnt take much force if its going in straight.
The cap has a slot in it to actuate the forked switch plate. It has to move freely up and down with little or no resistence. Make sure there are no burrs on it and test it before assembly.
Parts:
Cap, plunger, retaining dowel, new coil sleeve, new spring all installed.
Get this all assembled before you install the switch.
cap installed (resized).jpg
Its best to pre-adjust the switch after you install it, before putting the mech into the game. Fork goes on top...
switch installed (resized).jpg
Since the popper cap has a slot to actuate the switch, its best to use a ball to make your adjustments.
Its adjusted properly when the contacts fully close at 75% of the slot opening with a ball resting on it.
You have to bend the fork up "more" than you would think (before you put a ball on it), to take the weight of the plunger and not close the switch until a ball is resting on it.
switch propely adjusted (resized).jpg
All done and it works perfectly!
The ball shoots up really forcefully with a cap on the plunger.
Without the popper cap the ball would rattle in the wireform and sometimes fall back down to be launched again.
I think it would be near "impossible" to rebuild this mech, mounted in the game. Possibly why it was never fixed since it sorta worked but ultimately ruined the forked switch.
Molex the coil and switch. Then you can easily rebuild it on the bench.
Quoted from tripplett:I too rebuilt mine last summer using Marco parts. About 6 months later the plunger started to come apart. The result is the switch stopped getting triggered. I pulled on the cap and the whole black plastic section came lose from the metal plunger. Cleaned it all with alcohol and epoxied it back on. I don’t know if it will hold long term. It’s not the best design and not as good as the original pinned design. I’ve emailed Marco about it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
WOW, thanks for reporting this defect!
Your experence with these parts might be just a random problem and might just be a fluke....
But my experience is that, I have no luck at all and it will likelly happen to me also.
I looked at the plunger and the black insert should have been reinforced the a roll pin drilled into it to keep it from popping out of the steel plunger.
Most plungers of this type have a roll pin, in fact its hard to find a williams part without it.
You epoxied it back, but it may, or "may not" hold for long, it should have lasted 40,000 plays. Drill a hole in it to lock in the black insert and press in a roll pin.
I may rip mine apart and add a roll pin.
I can easily drill it out and put in a roll pin if needed
Thank you so much for talking about this defect.
I took apart my drop target for cleaning an coil sleeve replacement.
While its out of the game, I decided to light it up.
Its pretty easy, there was even a dimpled hole for the lamp on my playfield.
I replaced the black target with a translucent one from pinball-mods (@zitt).
Put a fresh decal on it and added a lamp, wired from a nearby GI light.
Lamp installed:
Drop target up:
target up (resized).jpg
Drop target down:
target down (resized).jpg
It looks pretty good in a semi darkened room.
I might put in a 4smd lamp to get it a little brighter, but Im out of them til my next Comet order.
It has a 2smd sunlight in it right now.
So, it looks less impressive in the up position, but when its down its plenty bright.
Im thinking of just adding another lamp next to it attached to the "load gun" flasher.
This should add a slight amount of animation when the insert is flashing (has anyone else added a lamp to the flasher?).
Mezel-mods is out of stock in these mods, but its easy enough than anyone can do it.
Over all, Im super happy with my $6 investment!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I took apart my drop target for cleaning an coil sleeve replacement.
While its out of the game, I decided to light it up.
Its pretty easy, there was even a dimpled hole for the lamp on my playfield.
I replaced the black target with a translucent one from pinball-mods (Zitt).
Put a fresh decal on it and added a lamp, wired from a nearby GI light.
Lamp installed:
[quoted image]
Drop target up:
[quoted image]
Drop target down:
[quoted image]
It looks pretty good in a semi darkened room.
I might put in a 4smd lamp to get it a little brighter, but Im out of them til my next Comet order
It has a 2smd sunlight in it right now.
So, it looks less impressive in the up position, but when its down its plenty bright.
Im thinking of just adding another lamp next to it attached to the "load gun" flasher.
This should add a slight amount of animation when the insert is flashing (has anyone else added a lamp to the flasher?).
Mezel-mods is out of stock in these mods, but its easy enough than anyone can do it.
Over all, Im super happy with my $6 investment!
If anyone has a repro playfield for sale, let me know!
Im installing all LED's as my initial tests show that its a HUGE improvement.
I mean like night and day...
2smd frosted sunlight all around! Looks incredible!
With colorDMD, pinsound and a shaker motor, and a CHROME upgrade, this game would be a permanent KEEPER!
I love this game!
@pinballgoddes posted 120,000,000 on her fifth game. She had never seen this title before.
Hopefully Buthamburg will resume production on T2 playfields !
Quoted from jibmums:You should install an LED/OCD board too. Looks awesome with the insert lamps getting gradually brighter/dimmer like incandescents, instead of just on/off.
I watched the incandescents carefully before installing the LED's, and filmed the game so I would have a reference.
They original lamps flash so rapidly, and move about so quicky in attract mode they looked like uncontrolled LED's!
Im not seeing any different behavior with the LED's installed, if anything the lamps behave slightly better.
The LED's are MUCH brighter and fill the inserts PERFECTLY! The regular bulbs look terrible by comparison.
Other games that I have upgraded to LED's were noticeably harsh and stark looking and flashed so fast it was annoying, as well as ghosting problems.
LEDOCD totally fixed these games.
Normally, I totally agree that LEDOCD is a must have.
Oddly on T2, I havent felt the need to install one of my LEDOCD boards.
I think it looks amazing without it, in fact the look has improved so much I dont think it needs it.
I think because of the many HUGE square inserts, the look is really good as it is.
Also, I upgraded to the L-8 ROM. There is no ghosting at all.
I think that LEDOCD is manditory for games that ghost badly.
Again its odd that my game looks so perfect without the LEDOCD board in it.
I was totally prepared to install LEDOCD, but as of now, Im going to skip it on this game.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I’m loving your enthusiasm for this game!!
With all the media coverage of recent AI developments, the game seems current after 32 years.
The 60 minutes show last sunday was an eye opener!
Meanwhile we are watching the extended blu-ray if the film and really getting into the whole vibe.
I dont know how long Ill keep the game, but we are having a BLAST with it!
Quoted from Averell:Yes, that's it.
It was develped by Wurlitzer some years ago and he gave the Project to AVO.
I wrote a new installation instruction in German and English.
Well, it's not a cheap product, instead high end and worth any penny.
I agree, its a MUST have if doing s full resto.
It looks AMAZING!
The pinsound movie theme is the coolest thing I have seen to date.
Quoted from Averell:No, this is how the wiring should guided at the 5 bank targets.
[quoted image]
Black sheathing over the wires would look cool...
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Besteek-50ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving/dp/B07F5G1RNF
Quoted from jibmums:Hey, if it works for you as-is, that's great. Personally, I couldn't stand the look of T2 with just the LED's, whereas on Jackbot next to it, I didn't mind them so much. Once I installed the LED/OCD board though, I LOVED the way it looked. To each his own!
I think it varies from game to game, and how you perceive it all...
My Taxi runs the LED's so fast it looks bad.
Adding the LEDOCD board is so much better.
Although, now that you mention it, I could slow everything down a bit on my T2 with the LEDOCD board.
I can see that it would be a less frenzied look.
However, with the regular bulbs its quite fast and frenzied and blinks fast.
So, with LED's its about the same IMHO.
The frosted LED's that I like to use do take the edge off the harshness a bit too.
Quoted from Ant-H:That’s what I used on mine. Not cheap, but definitely a must have mod for T2.[quoted image]
Your game looks really good!
Quoted from tripplett:My T2 came with one of these but it wasn’t installed. The previous owner just included it. It’s kind of heavy. I’m not sure what to do with it so it’s just sitting on a shelf.
Quoted from tripplett:I’m not sure what to do with it so it’s just sitting on a shelf.
Send it to me, Ill pay the postage.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Send it to me, Ill pay the postage.
Seriously though, I was happy to get a repro one as mine was missing!
I love the way my game has progressed from badly worn and broken, to super fun to play!
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:Good Afternoon! I finally got around to installing my new Skull from Dystopic Pinball on my T2, and it's giving me some issues, and I wonder if y'all might give me some advice. I wired the skull into the same connector as the old skull was using. When I turn the game on, the eyes ghost really badly, and some insert lights on the playfield stay lit rather than go in the sequence like they should. When I start a game, the eye's come on bright and fine, however no change with the inserts. There are 4 or 5 inserts on the playfield that do this. If I unplug the skull, everything works as it should as far as the insert lights. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks,
Chris
Sounds like it needs a diode on it or its wired wrong, or you have a bad diode in the lamp matrix.
Generally, multiple lamp activations are due to a lamp wired wrong, or a bad diode.
I pulled apart my cannon assembly and gear box today for some MUCH needed lubrication.
You dont have to actually rip apart the gearbox as the end is open for maintenance.
I flushed it out with Brakleen until the starting gear spun easily and quickly with a finger flick.
It was very, VERY tight from dried grease. All of the gears turn easily with NO resistance after cleaning.
The electric motor also seemed slow and sluggish.
I flushed out the motor with circuit cleaner spray thru its vent cut-out and drained it off.
A lot of black liquid came out, so I flushed it a couple times until it was relatively clean inside.
The motor runs MUCH faster now and doesnt seem to labor.
After reassembly I liberally applied silicone grease to all the gears, shafts and bushings with a Q-tip.
Using a 10v power supply to rotate the gears to get them all lubes up helps immensely.
I pressed new grease into the grease cup on the main shaft.
Running several minutes and applying grease to dry spots that appeared seemed to do the trick
The box runs fast and relatively noise free.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I pulled apart my cannon assembly and gear box today for some MUCH needed lubrication.
You dont have to actually rip apart the gearbox as the end is open for maintenance.
I flushed it out with Brakleen until the starting gear spun easily and quickly with a finger flick.
It was very, VERY tight from dried grease. All of the gears turn easily with NO resistance after cleaning.
The motor seemed slow and sluggish.
I flushed out the motor with circuit cleaner spray thru its vent cut-out and drained it off.
A lot of black liquid came out, so I flushed it a couple times until it was relatively clean inside.
The motor runs MUCH faster now and doesnt seem to labor.
One thing that had annoyed me was the excessive rotational play in the cannon.
In my case the gearbox is tight and not worn out at all!
The keyway in the bushing assembly is also not worn much at all.
However there is room for improvement.
I used a machinist trick and slightly twisted the flat key SLIGHTLY..... with a couple tiny crescent wrenches.
slight bend in key (resized).jpg
This took out the play in the bushing shaft and now the cannon has only about 1/4" to 5/16" of rotational play.
I also added back in the missing grommet.
My cannon is quick and solid with very little play now!
Quoted from tripplett:I too rebuilt mine last summer using Marco parts. About 6 months later the plunger started to come apart. The result is the switch stopped getting triggered. I pulled on the cap and the whole black plastic section came lose from the metal plunger. Cleaned it all with alcohol and epoxied it back on. I don’t know if it will hold long term. It’s not the best design and not as good as the original pinned design. I’ve emailed Marco about it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
On seeing how your VUK plunger fell apart.
I noticed this one at ministry of pinball and ordered it:
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/ball-popper-armature-assy-set.html
I like the spring and felt it was needed
It also has the roll pin.
I didnt like the way that the switch had to support the ball as well as there was no way to retract the popper cap without a spring to keep it working properly.
This should be way better.
vu_kicker-2_mop (resized).pngIm continuing on installing LED's in my game.
WHAT A DIFFERENCE ! ! ! !
I did see a slight buzz 0t 60hz flicker in the GI lamps.
Disabling GI dimming seems to have corrected it. I can also add in a couple regular lamps, but havent so far.
Does T2 use any GI dimming in ay of its features?
I havent seen any use of GI dimming so far.
GIOCD anf LEDOCD are always on my mind when I do an LED update.
So far, I havent seen any real need for it, but you never know...
With my gun/cannon working properly, I posted 172 million earlier today to get the Grand Champion score off the preset on my game!
What a fun game!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:In the club as of yesterday! Needs some work to make it look pretty! Should be fun!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow Congrats!
The game looks real nice, even the gun handle looks great!
Nice score!
Its really great to buy a game that actually works LOL !
My game is ok, but needs a playfield I think.
But I didnt pay much for it...
I wanted to get chrome colored flipper bats but little shop of games is out of them,
Does anyone else have them?
Im WAY too cheap to get actual metal ones.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:My playfield is pretty good I think!! Dirty as hell tho!!
Chipping in a few spots. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Side rails arent even dented!!!
That looks like it will clean up really well, VM&P naptha on paper towels to clean the old wax off. Novus 2 on a microfiber rag to rub out the ball trails and any black crap.
Re-clean off the novus with naptha, then wax with blitz or p21s carnauba, buff with a yellow detailing cloth to a high gloss.
If you can get VM&P naptha you can use Colemans fuel by the gallon. Its 99% naptha.
Black oil based Sharpie paint marker for any cabinet and door touch ups, inside and out.
Wipe the marker gently before it dries with a paper towel to de-gloss it.
Rustoleum satin black sprayed wet on a paper towel to rub in and touch up any wood work, inside and out, works wonders.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Thanks man! Starting to clean tonight. To replace the back box / head decals I would need to sand this down I assume? The wood has lots of “splitting” in it like planking.
To fill in the lower corner. Wood filler? [quoted image][quoted image]
If the game is running 100%, then I work on the cabinet.
Completely disassemble the head.
Sand it down to the wood with an orbital sander.
Fill the corners with bondo it they arent too badly missing.
Any cracks can be clamped and glued with titebond III glue.
Any loose joints can be countersunk and wood screws applied deeply and glued with titebond.
Use bondo to cover the screw heads.
For bad planking and unstable fibers, I mix titebond glue with about 25% water and paint it on then let it dry.
It sands out pretty good.
Fill any voids with Half-Time filler, it dries and is sandable in 10 mins, so you can keep working on it until your satisfied. You can also "butter" any end grain with half-time to give the front a more finished appearance.
Sand everything square, but very slightly round off sharp edges to keep wood fibers from splitting out.
Use Kilz oil based primer on the wood. 2 coats sanding very smooth, both coats.
You can get Kilz in gallon cans and use a foam roller and foam brush. For hard to sand areas you can get Kilz in a spray can.
Let the primer dry at least one day, maybe 2. It should not be super cold to the touch, but room temperature.
Primer has to be dry to sand properly. Dry sand, never wet (it raises the grain of the wood)
Use Rustoleum satin black paint or similar, 2 coats or more if you need to sand it out. It will take a week to dry if you have to sand out runs.
DONT PAINT THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAD. Leave it primer white or if it looks good enough, leave it alone. If you paint it, it will stick like glue to the bottom cabinet. It takes a LONG time for the paint to dry.
Apply decals, Trim them back 1/8" from the edges so they dont catch on things and lift off.
Seal the white edge of the decal with Sharpie oil based paint marker.
Reassemble, and your done!
It takes about 6 months for the paint to dry super hard and durable, until then its super easy to touch it up if needed.
Do the same with the lower cabinet, they dont have to be done at the same time.
Again, dont paint the bottom of the head, just leave it primered and lightly sanded, or leave it alone.
You can however paint the bottom of the head if you use urethane automotive paint.
It catylizes super hard and wont stick to the lower cabinet, basically it dries hard in a couple hours.
I do it both ways, but the Rustoleum looks more factory as they used cheap paint, and its WAY easier to touch up.
Painting and restoring cabinets is kinda fun and pretty easy.
Remember, its just a plywood box lol... not fine furnature.
On backbox Stencils:
Someone near you might have the silkscreen stencil, or let you borrow it. This is preferred.
It looks perfect with the yellow stenciled warning text.
By all means its not necessary, but it looks cool and the sign of a better job.
Dont be tempted to BUY the crappy big warning text sticker for the back.
Its better to just leave it alone, the stickers fall off and bubble horribly over time.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Ordering leds. How many flashers does T2 have? Are they just in the back box? I’m
The game looks great!
There are #89 and #906 bulbs I havent got to them yet.
Off hand, at least a dozen #906 and maybe 6 or 8 #89 bulbs, but I dont have a count yet.
I was getting some buzz/flickering in the GI LEDs but turning off GI Dimming seems to have fixed it.
Todays work was to replace the cannon switch and both ramp switches.
They were seriously bent out of shape and still only worked 7 out of 10 times....
The ramp switches had been replaced before, but the cannon switch looked melted, shrunken and horribly abused lol.
The new switches work prefecly after minor lateral adjustments.
You should never have to "bend" the actuator on switches (replace them)...They didnt do that at the factory...
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:For the inserts should I go cool white or color match some?
I put in 100% sunlight frosted 2smd from comet.
It looks perfect in all cases.
I only put a color one "here and there" to accentuate a color, like in the terminator eyes in the playfield maybe (but they wiil probably make orange...).
He looks pretty good with the sunlight bulbs though.
For me its simple, I buy 100 or 200 555 sunlight 2smd frosted,
And 100 #44 sunlight 2smd frosted and go from there.
This works in nearly all games.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Sounds good!
Glad you got your switches fixed!
I put some leds in the back box that I already had. Cool white. The translite looks like it has faded quite a bit over the years from the incandescent bulbs.
Any one stock a good quilting translite?
Thanks!
Richard
Im seriously thinking of getting the CPR glass mirrored backglass.
It would be amazing! But it might make the rest of my game look worn and trashy....
Your game however looks GREAT!
Quoted from Ant-H:The CPR mirrored back glass looks awesome.
Seriously, If it redid the cabinet, theres no way I would put a stale old translite in it.
CPR backglass all the way!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Hmmm, maybe. I was looking on their website earlier. If I am not mistaken the are a Canadian Company. Only a few hours from me.
I also want a pinsound board, and a pin2dmd HD from https://stumblorpinball.com/
Your game looks so good, I say GO FOR IT !!!
Quoted from tripplett:Yes, the 8.3 rom fixes the bong bong. But I’d just deal with it till 8.4 comes out in a month or so. It has a lot of new stuff in it. That is unless you have a rom burner and don’t want to wait.
Are you burning ROMS?
I just put 8.0 in but I wouldnt be adverse to trying the 8.4 with a new sounds rom.
Sell me 2 ROMS !
Quoted from Ant-H:Did you get the XL Pin2DMD from Stumblor? I recently got one for my TAF, but never seen a T2 with an XL screen. How’s it look?
I am HIGHLY interested in the stumblor wide screen for my TAF.
Its only slightly more expensive than the ColorDMD.
Is it a "must" have? Or would the ColorDMD be sufficient.
Also, do the "Thing" lamps fit under the stumblor screen?
I know, so many questions.
If you dont want to answer here, please PM me.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Didn’t buy yet. I will soon!! How’s the quality? Amazing eh?
Im totally sold on the hi-res wide screen concept.
For me, its a no brainer. Better, wider screen in hi-rez artisically re-drawn for the new screen....
AND its actualy cheaper than ColorDMD???????????
Quoted from AD72:Or does anyone have scans of them? They would look cool laser etched in plexi. I need them as well.
I was thinking they could be laser etched and bottom lit with micro LED's and set in a little tray.
I just dont have the time to do it.
Quoted from Xtraball:Get these signs, they’re always lit white but when the ball goes thru the left or right wireform the opposite sign turns red. Get the skull eyes that look towards the ball too from Pinsider Gnassel. Just email him, he’ll help you out. [quoted image][quoted image]
those look GREAT!
Most of the inserts are on lamp boards with #555 wedge sockets in rows. I found ir easier to just remove the lamp boards other than fight with the twist sockets.
There are 4 #906 in your lower circle.
there are several extra playfield controlled lamps on bayonet sockets, so its a mix, but mostly #555 wedge.
All of the GI is bayonet.
Im mostly done with my game,
I have used about 100 wedge and about 75 bayonet. There are 40 or more wedge in the very crispy backbox sockets.
The 2smd sunlight frosted look really good everywhere.
I have also used about 20 5 led flasher towers with the wege base, they are polarized.
The 2 lamps under the center 3 standups were too bright, i switched them for 1smd lamps for now.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Thanks guys! The pop bumpers are regular GI correct?
I thought I put in wedge?
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Hey guys!
The only error I have is Switch 77 Drop Target.
The drop target under the skull is up at the start of the game. When I hit it, it goes down no problem. When it is down I hit that shot and the vuk fires the ball to the cannon no problem. So I thought all may have been OK.
But now I’m seeing it is a problem in multiball. I’m getting 1-2 balls stuck there and even the ball search didn’t clear them today.
Turned the game off and on, then the vuk kicked them out to the cannon then to the drain.
How do I solve this issue?
Thanks!!
[quoted image]
Test the drop target assembly in solenoid test, up and down.
I molexed the wires to my drop target, and my VUK.
This makes it super easy to remove them and inspect them.
You have 2 things in play:
Drop target switch might need adjustment or replacement, coil sleeve probably needs cleaning, hinge points may need dry lube.
VUK switch might need cleaning or adjustment or both, probably needs the coil sleeve cleaned.
Resolve the drop target issue first.
Likely the switch needs adjustment or a wire fell of either the upper small solenoid or the switch. The diodes can also break off.
The switch can become loose or even fall of. Its held on by two 1/2" 2-56 screws.
It can also break or get intermittent. These switches take a beating. Replace it with any DB5 or DB3 pinball switch (with diode, silver band on diode points toward the "actuator hinge" side of the switch) and just move the actuator over to the new switch.
In some cases the E-clips and springs fall of and the target drags. Check it against the manual to see if it still has all of its parts.
The plastic target slot that holds the e-clips and springs can be lubed with dry lube for smooth operation if needed.
Check for broken off wires before making any adjustments.
Check that the drop target itself isnt broken and the protruding flange contacts the switch properly
Adjust the switch by turning its body. You make have to loosen one of the tiny switch retaining screws to do this.
Test it in solenoid test to make sure it goes up, and down.
Note:
The drop target assembly is stupidly difficult to remove.
The lower left hex screw is located in such a way that few tools can reach it.
To remove it from the game:
Its easiest to remove the mounting plate for the upper kicker solenoid from the main assembly, by removing the 2 short Philips screws with a #2 Philips screwdriver at an angle with the screwdriver shaft resting on the coil itself. Press hard while turning.
Upon reassembly replace the impossible to reach screw with a regular phillips cross head sheet-metal screw, so you can easily get a screwdriver in the remove the screw. Put blue locktite on the short Philips screws.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I molexed the wires to my drop target, and my VUK.
This makes it super easy to remove them and inspect them.
you have 2 things in play:
Drop target switch might need adjustment or replacement, coil sleeve probably needs cleaning, hinge points may need dry lube.
VUK switch might need cleaning or adjustment or both, probably needs the coil sleeve cleaned.
Resolve the drop target issue first.
Likely the switch needs adjustment or a wire fell of either the upper small solenoid or the switch.
The switch can become loose or even fall of. Its held on by two 1/2" 2-56 screws.
Check for broken off wires before making any adjustments.
Check that the drop target itself isnt broken and the protruding flange contacts the switch properly
Adjust the switch by turning its body. You make have to loosen one of the tiny switch retaining screws to do this.
Test it in solenoid test to make sure it goes up, and down.
Note:
The drop target assembly is stupidly difficult to remove.
The lower left hex screw is located in such a way that few tools can reach it.
Its easiest to remove the mounting plate for the upper kicker solenoid from the main assembly, by removing the 2 shrort screws with a #2 phillps screwdriver at an angle with the screwdriver shaft resing on the coil itself. Press hard while turning.
Upon reassembly replace the impossible tp reach screw with a regular phillips cross head sheetmetal screw, so you can easily get a screwdriver in the remove the screw.
The VUK forked switch can be adjusted and cleaned in the game.
I wrote a little about it earlier in this thread.
Check to see if all of its parts are present via the manual (mine was in bad shape).
I use a little Flitz or Simichrome on a q-tip to clean the contacts, then "wash" it off with a q-tip dipped in naptha.
The lower leaf contact can be bent near its base, for adjustment, with needle nose pliers or a highly recommended leaf switch adjustment tool:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
If the coil sleeve needs cleaning, the coil wont have enough power to easily clear 2 balls.
If the coil wires are hanging by a thread, the coil wont have enough current to fire to balls out.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Oddly enough, the error did not return during gameplay and the game seems to be playing 100%!
The switch is probably going bad and not triggering sometimes.
You get the error notice if the switch hasnt been triggered in a couple games.
Its no too bad to replace it "in-game".
You might also turn it a little to get a little fimer action out of it.
These days, I just replace 20 or 30 year old switches as soon as they start acting up.
That wooden edge under the display looks a little dry and planky.
Wipe a folded paper towel the edge sprayed with satin black Rustoleum across it.
It will look great and preserve it a bit.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Thanks! Yes I bought that paint you recommended already!! Just didn’t do it yet!!
Thanks!
Richard
It looks like your game is missing the clear plastic with the metal collar that goes behind the skull.
There is a potential ball hang on the left skull mounting screw without it.
Im not sure of the part number of the plastic yet, or if its easy to get the metal "collar".
Can someone "chime" in with some info or spare parts?
The metal collar you can live without, Im not sure it does anything and doesnt really do anything cosmetically.
I think this is the plastic:
There is also a spacer that holds it on in the rear.
You might also need this one on the right side if its missing:
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Weird. Switch 77 works perfectly I switch edge test when I push it by hand. And now the error is cleared. Let see in gameplay. Something is not activating switch 77 I assume.
[quoted image]
I added the "Bright Eyes" to my skull.
https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html
It looks from the picture that your skull has regular bulbs in it.
I REALLY like the new look it gave him, lol!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Before I use it, this was a naptha correct?
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Yes, thats 99.99% naptha.
Smear some on a piece of glass.
It should evaporate with no residue at all.
Check it to be sure, then you are good to go.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Got it!! Will do tonight!!
Should I notice a big difference in the playfield appearance?
Thanks!
The naptha will completely remove all the old wax that looks grimy or had dirt imbedded in it.
Novus 2 does a decent job of buffing off ball trails and stubborn dirt in the clear coat. Clean with naptha after scrubbing.
I use my worn out athletic socks for rubbing out ball trails. The cotton does a better job than the microfiber.
After its all clean, you can buff the clear coat a bit with a drill buffer and a mirror glaze or detailing compound, clean it up with naptha, then apply a coat of 100% carnauba wax.
NOTE: Wax is not spackle or body filler, apply it very sparingly. Think what fingerprints on glass looks like.
You can NOT "build" coats of wax. Softened wax in the can has a solvent to keep it moist. This solvent removes the old wax as you apply the new. You will see it on the applicator, wash the applicator with warm water and dish soap when done. Very slightly dampened applicators do a better job than dry ones.
Then wipe off the dry wax with a microfiber cloth and buff to a high gloss with yellow flannel detailing cloths.
If the clear is hazed, just like on a car, you would have to use a mild rubbing compound (or a scratch/haze remover), then the mirror glaze, then the wax.
The 3" foam detailing pads (with the pad holder) from harbor freight do a pretty good job in a drill motor.
Tooth brushes to remove wax from star posts, wooden spoon handles with a microfiber rag rubber banded onto them and chop-sticks are helpful tools.
Blitz 100 grand and P21S (silver can) are good waxes. P21S leaves less white dust.
Clean out the cabinet with a shop vac to remove black dust and old white wax dust.
You can even vacuum off the bottom of the playfield mechs and wiring. Black dust goes everywhere.
The game will stay cleaner longer.
For between waxing wipe downs I use Mist n Shine detailing cleaner on a soft rag and buff dry. It wont remove the wax but is a gentle cleaner that has a little wax in it. Its WAY better than the useless Novus 1.
I use Sparkle glass cleaner A LOT on plastics, glass and general wipe downs (inside and out). Its ammonia free and safe for anti-glare glass.
Sometimes I spray a little, other times I spray it on a paper towel. You dont want to get wood or playfields too wet at all. Damp is ok.
Naptha on a q-tip (or paper towel corner) removes black from rubber and target faces. Works on white rubber too.
Quoted from nstern2:I bought a T2 a few weeks ago and it plays great except occasionally the gun lock will only require 1 shot to lock it. Drop target looks to be working properly, but I'm still a pinball newb so I'm not sure what would cause that or what I am looking for.
Test that the drop target does up and down in the solenoid test.
Bang on the playfield with palm of your hand and see if it falsely triggers "in game".
The drop target might just need cleaning, adjusting and a coil sleeve.
Sometimes the target itself has worn and it slips off the ledge on the mech.
Sometimes the ledge on the mech has worn a bit and the worn target wont stay put.
Either way, it probably needs maintenance.
If you put in a new drop target, its a great time to get the clear/translucent ones.
Then you can put a lamp behind it!
Molexing the connections makes for easy bench repairs.
Quoted from Buthamburg:Hello to all.
Our new facility is, so far, up and we can work. The main things have been finalized. Production is speed up now. There are still alot of work to do, building walls and rooms but we are set up and working.
Terminator 2 Playfields.
Silk screened printing.
We have now started to print the Terminator 2 Judgement Day playfields. The white and the 3 gray shades are printed. Alltogether it is 11 colors, 7 more to go. Tomorrow we will continue.
We wish all a nice weekend
Regards from Hamburg
Ron, Leon and Peter
www.buthamburg.de
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
AMAZING NEWS!
I cant wait to get one!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Adding pinsound this week. Just looking in the back box. Almost looks like there is a board missing in the upper left corner?
Richard
[quoted image]
No board missing, you are ok.
The upper left mostly has a fliptronics board there in later games.
T2 is Pre-fliptronics by a couple years.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Did most of my led swap tonight!
I did notice that the 4 lights for the cpu inserts are not working. The board the 4 lights are connected to has 3 pins going into the connector. Is that correct? It looks like it may be missing one pin. Not sure.
Thanks!
Richard
[quoted image][quoted image]
Always spread out the ends of the LED bulb wires to 45 degree angles before inserting them.
Pull the board and see if you can use a 9v battery to light up the lamps with jumper wires.
9v used gently will not burn out the LED's.
If you can manually light up the bulbs, you have a connector issue.
Check for loose or cracked pins on the board, reflow the solder as necessary.
Replace the connector with a trifurcon if the wires are loose.
I had to do the same.
Quoted from Asanteiro:Hello friends ... I have a problem on my t2.
I start a new game the ball goes out to the ball launcher runner and the OUTHOLE KICKER coil KEEPS activating as if looking for a ball, it does it 7 or 8 times and then stays normal.
The game works normally. Just that...
Something I hear that the first time it searches for a ball, it makes a sound like the ball enters the trough.
This is the famous restarts?
I checked all the cables, clean etc and still ....
Is it the cpu? Mmm I would bet.
Greetings Alex!!!
Check all the switches with the edge test.
You might have a broken wire or a failed switch.
You might see multiple closures on the matrix screen.
Sounds like a bad or broken diode on one of the switches.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Mirrored backglass from CPR. VERY well packed!![quoted image][quoted image]
Beautiful!
You might have to use the system 11 trim to get it installed.
CPR glass is slightly thicker than the regular 1/8" translite glass.
The pinball life system 11 trim, and the lift channel fits perfectly. Get some friction tape for the lift channel.
I even made a thread about my adventures 2 years ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim#post-6082721
Lift channel here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=System%2011%20lift%20channel
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Great! Thanks for all your help!
I got some new trim! Hope I can make it work!
I bought all if the available trims.
System 11 trim is perfect.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Yeah, to tight!
So all 4 sides system 11?
Yes, It will perfectly fit.
Get the friction tape for the lift channel.
You can put it on the sides and top if you want, but its TOTALLY not necessary.
However the lift channel could fit more snugly. It feels loose (tough its not) without the tape to help it
Put a 2" piece in the center and a 2" piece on each end of the glass about 1/4" in from the edge.
You will have to tap the lift channel on with a rubber or wooden mallet if you use the tape.
Go Slow, tap it on with the other end of the glass solidly on carpet, NOT CONCRETE OR TILE FLOOR!
Put it on so that you cant see it, at least from the front.
If you dont want to pound on your glass, dont use the tape. Its just more solid with the tape.
Trim the tape before you put it on if you want.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Couldn’t wait for new trim. Haha. Under the advice of CPR, they suggested to use a hair dryer to heat up the trim and tap it on about 3” at a time!
That’s what he does.
Worked!
Seems right in there however!
Richard
[quoted image]
Nicely done! That looks AMAZING!
The main reason for the system 11 trim is to cover the un-painted edges that can be visible.
Read thru my thread I posted above, there are pictures.
Yours looks great!
Quoted from shepP:Will the German and English language Call Out and SFX be mixed together?
I dont speak German, though I do like a lot of German foods.
Quoted from vec-tor:Hello T2 members. I just posted a repair I had to do on
the shooter lane ball launch kicker. The main problem was
the playfield screw holes where severely stripped out.
I hope it can help other T2 members that have the same problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-ball-launch-repair
Enjoy.
If a hole is worn oversized, I usually re-drill it, fill it with a piece of hardwood dowel hammered in, glue it in with titebond then dremel it flat.
Then drill a new proper sized hole.
It seems like a lot, but its simple and easy once you do it.
You somewhat did the same thing with pieces of wood and epoxy.
Either way its a good repair.
In other areas like wood screw post holes, I just replace the post with a machine screw one and add a t-nut.
My gun fires inconsistently.
This is no good when battling Robots and Cyborgs.
Fortunately the switch is easily removed from the game to work on it.
trigger switch (resized).jpg
It appears the this was the original switch! Its lasted a very long time.
I just replaced the switch and moved the actuator over to the new switch.
NOTE:
I had to press the actuator hinge tabs a little closer to the switch body.
If it fits too loose, the actuator will move side-to-side too much, and fall off the gun's firing pin.
Too tight and it wont retract, I spent about 5 mins getting it "just right".
To compensate for wear on the firing pin, I had to bend the actuator tab slightly.
Other than that, regular turning of the switch got it adjusted properly.
Now it fires perfectly, all the time, and I have it adjusted so that it fires about halfway thru the trigger stroke.
Quoted from rx3:A little WD40 and a scrub brush works really well. For the wrench...
LOL !
It was my Fathers wrench.
Its 60 yers old, I like the patina.
Quoted from Averell:We're very close to a release candidate and here's the preliminary change log for L8.4:
• Added pre-menu report of CPU U6 Checksum value to report the ROM stored checksum value.
• Removed the L8.3 Sound Test “Sound 05 Explicit Stop” code which was inadvertently in L8.3.
• Fixed the L8.3 Function ID Overlap issue, now using non overlapping ID for the L8.3 function.
• Fixed 5-bank “Targets Remaining” discrepancy w/lit targets when targets hit simultaneously.
• Added feature adjustment “Cannon 1 hit” to restrict hunter ship hits per cannon shot to 1.
• Fixed the PAPA Lost Super Jackpot bug when ball-popper hit during lengthy animation sequence.
• Fixed the Payback Time Security Levels inserts misalignment issue after Security Pass award.
• Fixed Bonus lamps at Tilt. Bonus-X lamps and Hold Bonus lamps cleared when player tilts.
• Added feature adjustment “SS Autofire Time” to allow adjustment of the skillshot autofire timer.
• Text correction, German “sek.” Changed to “Sek.” In menu system for abbreviated “seconds”.
• Added feature adjustment “Super Jackpot” to adjust how 5-bank lamps behave for super jackpot.
• Fixed auto-fire ball saver during first multiball so it always returns ball without loading cannon.
• Tournament Mode Enhancement: Database awards same awards for all players.
• Tournament Mode Enhancement: 5-bank lamp patterns for multiball start same for all players.
• Tournament Mode Enhancement: 5-bank single lamp for jackpot same for all players.
• Tournament Mode Enhancement: Video Mode same for all players.
• Tournament Mode Enhancement: Gun-trigger during attract mode shows previous game scores.
• Fix when Adjustment A.1 03 is set to “NO EX. BALL”, no EB animations and no lit-EBs.
• Fixed issue where start-button would play sound when zero credits and attract sounds are off.
• Added “L8.4” as new adjustment value for feature adjustment “Attract Mode”
• For L8.4 attract mode, start-button will play sounds when there are zero credits.
• For L8.4 attract mode, gun-trigger will play sounds.
Is the non-ghosting patch applied to all these releases?
Quoted from Averell:Of course it is, there's a sub menu to switch that patch On or Off.
A separate ghostpatch is unnecessary.
I really want to try this ROM.
Is the profaninty sound ROM required?
Can someone send me the ROM's, I dont have a burner yet.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Anyone use a pinsound shaker in their T2?
Or anyone have any feedback on it?
I have a pinsound board and need to order the wire to convert it to stereo sound and may order their shaker as well.
Thanks!
Richard
Definitely get the shaker!
I have them on all of my pinsound games, its AWESOME!
Quoted from dinot:Is there an an external volume control that I can install on my pin? I saw one from a company (Pinnovators) at Pinfest that used the coin reject buttons but they had a module that goes along with it to trick the pin into thinking the door was open. I was telling the person that my T2 doesn't have an interlock switch.
I have a Pinsound Plus and my kids and I don't agree on the sound files. So when each of us plays we need to open the door, lower the volume to zero, and then turn it back up to switch sound files. It gets a little annoying.
Maybe get the headphone station from pinsound?
I use it all the time to change orchestrations without opening the coin door.
And you can use it for headphones ! But I mostly just use it for a volume control.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Hmm. Looks like mine I think. I don’t ever get hang ups there. [quoted image]
Good to hear.
I might increase the pitch 1/2 a degree.
It could just be a momentum issue.
Quoted from dinot:Mine was fine at first. I removed the apron to address something. After I reinstalled the apron, I'd get hangups there. I ended up removing and reinstalling the apron paying close attention to make sure it mounted properly and then I didn't have a hangup again.
Quoted from vikingerik:I've gotten hangups there on occasion. It's because the edge just to the right of the kickback (looking from the player's point of view; it's to the left when looking from above in those pics) is worn down to a flat surface so the ball can sit there. The real fix is to file/sand down the metal so it's an inclination pointing towards the trough again.
Upon observation, the ball hangs there mostly, when it goes down the outline at an angle then rolls up to the left.
Then comes to rest in that slot.
Thinking about the experience of having this happen by removing the apron:
Warping the lower edge slightly so that the ball might have just enough momentum to fall back down?
Or positioning the apron so that the slot is more at an angle?
Ill look to see if I can come up with a solution.
Thanks !
Lots to look at.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:All good yet?
I will look at it tomorrow, I had to work out of town today.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:New sub! Waiting on my pinsound 2.1 connector.
[quoted image]
Thats going to make a big difference.
I received my new VUK plunger and cap today from Ministry of Pinball.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/ball-popper-armature-assy-set.html
Its a MUCH better version than what Marco offers.
The plastic end is "pinned" and there is a light spring to help return the cap to its proper position.
VUK plunger fromMoP (resized).jpg
Very easy to install, if you have already molexed the switch and coil.
The pin is easy to insert and remove with big needle nose pliers.
The switch adjustment is as before, with a ball sitting on it.
If you are rebuilding the mech, this is the plunger to get from Ministry of Pinball.
Its WAY better than the Marco one.
Earlier, I added a lamp to the drop target.
I really like it!
While I had the VUK (ball popper assembly) out, I thought it would be fun to add a flashing red lamp to the drop target as well.
There are holes pre-drilled in the playfield to add the lamps.
I put in a 4smd red lamp, hoping it would be bright enough:
So, now I have 2 lamps behind my drop target. One 2smd frosted sunlight (chained off of a near by GI lamp, no diode needed), one 4smd red (tapped off of the load gun PCB lamp, diode "IS" needed).
The lamp power is tapped into the "Load Gun" lamp on the pc-board:
molex added tp pc board wiribg (resized).jpg
It works surprisingly well and adds a flicker to the drop target area.
I guess it could be brighter, but I only spent 15 mins on it as I wanted to test my new VUK armature.
Any comments are welcome and appreciated!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Looks great!
It was a fun thing to do since it was apart.
I really think that the drop target was "supposed" to be lighted.
The pre-drilled holes are an EXACT fit for adding a couple lamps.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I received my new VUK plunger and cap today from Ministry of Pinball.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/ball-popper-armature-assy-set.html
Its a MUCH better version than what Marco offers.
The plastic end is "pinned" and there is a light spring to help return the cap to its proper position.
[quoted image]
Very easy to install, if you have already molexed the switch and coil.
The pin is easy to insert and remove with big needle nose pliers.
[quoted image]
The switch adjustment is as before, with a ball sitting on it.
[quoted image]
If you are rebuilding the mech, this is the plunger to get from Ministry of Pinball.
Its WAY better than the Marco one.
The new plunger works perfectly!
I really like the spring they added.
It takes some pressure off the switch and helps pop the cap up off of the switch.
I think the switch will hold its adjustment better this way.
I took apart my flaky, sticky gun assembly:
I looks like its assembled wrong, or the wrong spring or even the wrong tubing sleeve.
This spring definitely does not fit inside the ring, the ring is just jamming onto the firing pin bushing.
It also looks like the spring is supposed to go inside the ring per the service bulletin:
t2 gun assembly (resized).jpg
All new parts might come today!
I will post the result.
New firing pin, new spring, new tube stop.
Its slightly longer (its new) the spring fits inside the tube stop, just like the service bulletin shows etc.
I also replaced the bushing, just in case.
Evidently the completely wrong spring was put in at some point. All fixed now!
I put a small amount of silicone grease on the rear plunger to help with binding up, probably unnecessary as the new bushing keeps it perfectly centered.
New is on the left, Old is on the right.
new firing pin (resized).jpg
The trigger action is like night and day!
It works just perfectly.
If your gun trigger feels spongey or misfires, pull it apart and see whats going on.
It might be all wrong like mine was.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Nice!
My trigger fires every time. But it does feel a little stiff to push it.
Does yours take much force to push in now?
Thanks!
Richard
Its pretty firm, not stiff, but not too bad.
I adjusted the switch so that it "triggers" around the lower 1/3 of the trigger stroke.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Sounds like mine is about right then!
Just realized my Hunter ship is broke in 2 places. I have the led mezel mods for the ship on order. Where is the best place to get a new shinny ship like the one pictured here (mine is the first pic).
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]
Mine looks like yours. I bought it from little shop of games, but the starship fantasy one is a lot better and looks shinier.
You have to draw in all the lines with an ultra-sharp sharpie marker on all of them.
This worked exceptionally well for me.
I wiped off mistakes with hand sanitizer on a paper towel. Naptha would of course also work.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Looks great! But they are sold out now!
This one is good:
https://starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Terminator-2-Hunter-Killer-Ship
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Looks great!!
Another question, in my GI test mode: “top insert” , “bottom insert” and “cpu string” all don’t light up. I knew my 4 led bulbs were not lighting up the cpu inserts but I’m not sure what “top and bottom Insert” lights are?
I assume these 3 problems may be connect somehow?
I tried reflowing the solder on the light board for the cpu inserts last night no luck.
Thanks!
Richard
Is there voltage at the board or sockets?
If not, I would check the connector in the backbox and look for a broken wire somewhere.
Quoted from DumbAss:Reflowing solder on a board is not advised. A lot of people advise it. I don't. It's a form of shotgun "repair". It often makes no difference and makes future board work more difficult due to the additional solder that is often added that needs to be melted and removed.
The "top insert" is the top string of the GI in the backbox. The backbox board is called the insert. The "bottom insert" is the bottom string. The "cpu string" is the row of CPU lamps in the center of the playfield. Those lamps are GI. They are NOT part of the (controlled) lamp matrix.
These kinds of GI errors are a little too common. It is often from poor attempts to repair the GI headers and connectors at J120/J121. The connectors get burned badly and attempts to repair it may or may not be electrically correct.
Having said all that, I have no proof for any of it. It's pure supposition based on experience.
Post images of the power board at the lower left corner. Specifically: J120, J121 and the connectors. Include J115 if it looks suspicious. People often confuse the wiring and it appears to work when all the GI is on but when the software tries to control individual strings, the incorrect wiring causes problems.
My j121 was all burned up too and got replaced with trifurcon.
Its the upper half of the backbox lamp insert.
The connector was incredibly burnt!
The pins on my driver board were shot from this and terribly corroded looking.
I just did the regular "replace all the burnt headers" with black ones on the driver board.
My 4 lamp CPU board in the playfield was flakey as hell.
It had cracked pins as well as a worn out loose IDC connector on it.
Reflowing the pins and replacing the IDC with a trifurcon has made it rock solid.
Its only a 2 wire connection on a 4 pin connector, so its easy to fix.
The bad, missing, burnt, glue covered connectors need replacing.
I would trade out the board with a spare, and start cleaning it up or send it out for service.
You can change out the connectors with little or no expertise, they are simple.
Newark has pretty much everything you need at really low prices.
I have seen worse. It looks worse than it really is in most cases.
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:Finally replaced my ColorDMD with a Pin2DMD, definitely worth the swap.
[quoted image]
What are the differences?
I would like to see a side-by-side comparison.
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:Here’s a comparison.[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks wonderful!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Ok! The top and bottom string in the back box always worked. I had my new mirrored back glass off as it was not fitting correctly with the stock plastics around it. I removed my back glass and put a towel over the back box to reduce the glare on the playfield glass while I waited for new plastics to arrive to fit it correctly, I didn’t even notice in the test it was going on and off. So all good there!
I’ll check the rest tomorrow!
Thanks again!
Richard
The CPU 4 lamp board might be a burned or loose connector in the backbox, its on the GI circuit.
I had to replace the connector on the 4 lamp board and reflow the header on it.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Ok!
So the fact that my j120 is empty is normal?
Thanks!
J120 and j121 are tied together, so essentially they are the same connector.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Installed Pinball Lifes bright eye mod and also some JJP invisa glass from Pinball life.
[quoted image][quoted image]
AMAZING LOOKING!
I just put Invisiglass on my CCrLE.
Once you have it on a game, theres no going back
You can easily cover sidewall scuffs with Rustoleum satin black sprayed on a paper towel and rubbed on.
Oil based black Sharpie markers work really well too.
Degloss them with a paper towel just before they dry and lightly rub over them to "feather" in the paint.
Between the Rustoleum and the paint marker, you can do a VERY acceptible touch up.
I have even filled blown out Head corners with bondo, sanded it flat and touched them up with this method without even using primer..
On a primarily black cabinet, its easy to touch up.
I have even lightly sprayed Rustoleum satin black on a sidewall with the playfield still in the game.
I just put a beach towel down to completely cover the playfield.
Any over-spray on the stainless is easily wiped off with lacquer thinner or naptha.
TONS of easy touch ups you can do to improve the look of a game.
For the absolute best:
Im going to order everything from Buthamburg.
Playfield, plastics, and decals.
Thay have it all and of extremely high quality.
Plus their prices are low for exceptional work.
https://www.buthamburg.de/en/decals/terminator-2-cabinet-decal-set
Im on the wait list for the upcoming playfield release, its gonna be EPIC !
Ill buy everything at the same time.
Quoted from dinot:I am checking IPDB every so often to see if 8.4 gets posted. Then I will buy it from a ROM seller.
you can email the files to Astil gaming and he will burn your ROMS too.
He might already have them once they are posted.
Quoted from vikingerik:What should happen is that any time the drop target falls while there's already a ball in the skull, the target immediately pops back up, so that a second ball can't sneak in. (If one does, and the VUK isn't strong enough to clear two of them, then yeah you have to get in there manually. Although you don't have to shut the machine off, or even remove the glass all the way, just slide it down a little bit so you can reach inside the skull.)
Is the target staying down when it shouldn't? My guess would be that the drop-target-down switch isn't registering so the game doesn't know to pop it back up. (All the other behavior is based on the switch inside the skull and not on the drop target switch.) Look for that in the switch test, see if it registers the drop target going down.
exactly. its the VUK switch not working right.
I had to completely rebuild my mech and switch.
Molex the connections for easy removal.
Quoted from vikingerik:There's two different switches - one registers the drop target going down, the other registers the ball in the skull. It sounds like the latter (what I'd call the VUK switch) is working, since he can start multiball without any problems, and the drop target raises after a lock in the skull during multiballs. It sounds like the drop-target-down switch is the one that's not working; that's not needed to start multiball or score a jackpot, but is needed to re-raise the drop target when it should stay up while a ball is locked in the skull.
Check that the VUK still has the popper cap/cup on it. Often they are missing. Check it against the manual.
The VUK should fire the ball immediately or a soon as a ball rests on it.
With the game powered up, it will fire the ball even if a game isnt started if you drop a ball onto it.
If its unreliable, the forked switch contacts may need cleaning or adjusting. They are gold, dont file them, use metal polish on a q-tip if they are black.
The drop target assembly might just need inspection, cleaning and lubrication. Often thay are not assembled correctly and need parts. They also get worn and are not reliable.
If something isnt right, remove both assemblies from the game and inspect them for proper operation.
Adding molex connectors to the wires makes maintenance a breeze.
Generally the mechs just need cleaning and new coil sleeves and coil stops if they look worn out.
Switches sometimes get loose and need adjusting.
Switches do get old and unreliable, but they are inexpensive to replace.
Quoted from Grublet:Thanks so much for the advice, you guys are great! I did some testing/inspecting and here is what I have so far.
The Good!
*The VUK fork switch is registering just fine in switch test
*The drop target switch (When target is dropped) is registering just fine in switch test
*The skull popper solenoid is firing fine in coil test
*The drop target solenoid is resetting the target (shooting it up) just fine in coil test
The Bad!
*The VUK popper cap is indeed missing. With a single ball in the skull, it still shoots it up to the canon...just not with two balls.
*The target knock down assembly (small solenoid attached to the drop target assembly) is only dropping the target 25% of the time in coil test mode...the rest of the time is just makes a small humming sound, and the target remains standing.
The Confusing!
*If the drop target reset solenoid is working fine, AND both the VUK & drop target switches are working fine, why on earth would the drop target NOT raise back up in the event of a drop during multiball? Again, I'm very new to all of this, but this almost sounds like a programming issue. Thanks for any further thoughts!
Remove both mechs from the game (as I suggested)
Buy this plunger assembly:
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/ball-popper-armature-assy-set.html
The drop target assembly needs to be rebuilt, adjusted and lubricated at its lubrication points (metal on metal rubbing points, hinge points, bearings etc.).
Buy a new drop target and decal. Pull it apart and see if its missing parts compared to the manual. Ministry of pinball should have the parts so you only have to order from one place.
It sounds like its in bad shape.
Use fine silicone oil with PTFE or dry lube.
After everything is cleaned up and rebuilt it will work flawlessly.
Quoted from tripplett:I meant no ill intent on my post so I'm not sure why anyone would get pissed. Who is "they are done" in your statement? Averell or IPDB? As far as I can tell from Averell's statement below it was done a week and a half ago. As for IPDB I don't believe there is any 'work' or 'testing' for them to host file - they just make sure it is clean with no viruses and upload it. Previous roms haven't taken this long to post.
We are all excited to try L8-4, but perhaps I was a little over zealous. It's probably going to be the deciding factor if I keep my T2 or not. Currently the wife doesn't like it and wants a different game but we don't have the room for another.
Get a Cactus Canyon remake.
The Wife will love it !
Pinballgoddess cant stop playing it.
She also hates the T2, but I love it!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:My before and after so far!
Having a good time with it!
Richard
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Looks great!
I have the custom ROM among with the profanity ROM coming soon:
https://www.pinballrom.com/product-page/terminator-2-custom-cpu-8-4
Dave is a great guy and does great work!
Quoted from tripplett:How did pinballrom get the files? I thought no one was releasing 8.4 until after IPDB posted it...
If they've gotten their hands on it and IPDB is taking their sweet time is there another source to d/l the files in the short term?
Just get one from Dave at pinballrom.com
Fast service, excellent quality!
ROM suppliers need Love too!
Mine just came today! Fast 7 days shipping from the great white north!
Might cost 2 cups of coffee, Daves prices are very reasonable.
I just installed L-8.4 and the profanity ROM.
I didnt reset to factory settings, I just stuck in both ROMS (powered off of course).
The game displayed L8.4 and all added adjustments were available.
I changed to the LED lamp driver, added 5 seconds to the autosave (required by @pinballgoddess) and turned on the profanity (required my me...).
NO MORE DOOR CRASHING SOUND in attract mode when sounds are turned off ! I love it!
Thats all for now, I have to read the .PDF....
It works PERFECTLY!
Quoted from tripplett:While that may be true I have access to a rom burner and have extra roms. Why would I pay for another?
I have the ROM burner, a box of ROMs and an eraser etc.
Dave has the ROM, his prices are low, He's a great guy, Its worth a couple bucks to get it done now instead of a couple months...etc.
I DO love the new ROM.
With all of the AI coming out at the speed of light. Skynet is here!
I only have 6 years and 1 month to get good at killing cyborgs.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Just ordered mine!
You will get it in a couple days!
Pinballgoddess LOVES the longer ball save!
Quoted from Averell:Hihihi...
Pinballgoddess has hated the game since I got it.
She says the game HATES her (it can be a brutal game with 6 second ball times), and she's a pretty formidable player.
With the 10 second ball save, she just posted a 209 million score. She has only played about 12 games on it prior.
Now she says the game is OK.... (she's a woman, there is really no pleasing them...)
This ROM will open the game up to many people who thought it was too brutal.
Thanks for this!
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:My hd pin2dmd from Stumblor is ready to ship!
Can’t wait![quoted image]
Thats gonna be EPIC !
Im waiting for then to build one for my TAF project.
Quoted from tripplett:I lost my job a few months ago so pinching any pennys I can for now. Why would it be a couple of months? As soon as it is posted to IPDB can’t I download and burn it? That’s like a few minutes of time. Problem is I’m not sure what the delay is with IPDB.
This whole thing is confusing. Averell and team worked hard to get L8.4 done and make sure it was free and available on IPDB before anyone else would have it. Apparently that didn’t happen.
I very sorry to hear about your troubles, I hope things look up for you soon.
About adding to or making changes to licensed software, you have to have the blessings of the license holder.
Otherwise its just a hack, or custom ROM.
I doesnt really matter if its exceptional work (as it is in this case), you need agreements etc. to move forward officially.
Im confident that Rick will give his blessing on this, but it will take a bit of time to get his attention.
He has hundreds of more pressing issues each day.
The next time I speak with him, Ill give this update the "thumbs up".
Im using it daily and so far its ROCK SOLID! In fact it seems to run smoother and a hair bit quicker than the 8.0 I was running.
The many hundreds of hours working on this shows that its truly a labor of love for this game.
IMPRESSSIVE work for the team, REALLY nice work.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Cool! Now you just need someone to play the game while you watch the (probably insanely expensive) screen!
Oddly the big screens are cheaper than the colorDMD.
They include custom speaker panel wood as well as the plastic panel, hi grade speakers, cabling, software and the screen. $600. Ready to install.
You may or may not have to install the color files, but they can also do it for you.
ColorDMD = $500, comes with nothing and you have to program it yourself. Its just the screen only and you have to build it.
https://stumblorpinball.com/collections/hd-pin2dmd
If you need a new display to replace a burned out or broken one, they are also $500.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DMD32
So, not "insanely expensive" at all!
In fact a great value comparatively.
But I do have to agree, EVERYTHING in pinball has become expensive.
Quoted from docquest:I've got one an ot looks great. Anybody know if the Pin2DMD will require an update if you install the new L8.4 ROM?
There was some discussion about a fix they implemented for colorDMD or LEDOCD.
Its done now, so I think you should be OK.
Im REALLY liking the LED lamp driver thats included in the L8.4.
I was going to install the LEDOCD, but its no longer needed.
Quoted from jibmums:Does that mean that the insert lamps slowly get brighter/dimmer like an incandescent, with just the L8.4 rom? Got a video? If that's true, I'll pop out my T2 LED/OCD and move it over to Jackbot.
Yes they flash quite a bit slower. Maybe not as perfect as the LEDOCD system provides, but VERY acceptable.
I was just about to install one of my LEDOCD kits (I have a few of each in stock). I dont think its totally necessary now.
When you ge the L8.4 ROM you might make the same assessment as I did.
You have to turn on the LED lamp driver in the adjustments menu.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Does anyone have a set of Habitrails for sale in good or okay condition? I really don’t care as long as it has everything and isn’t rusty.. oxidized is fine. My left habitrails ball stop was missing from the T2 I just picked up.
Also, is anyone burning 8.4 yet? If so, can someone let me know where to send my money?
Thanks!
Please read back a few posts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/205#post-7621085
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Picked up a T2 this past Saturday morning from a buddy to completely go through, shop out, dial in for him. Well, I kinda fell in love while working on it... So, I bought it from him.. Now im back in the T2 club, and I figured I would post everything I’ve done to it for those like myself who like build / repair logs.
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Bringing her home
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Cab was actually pretty nice all things considered
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Getting it setup
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( God, don't mind my weird hand position and dirty ass nails.. It was from the game I sware lol ) Going through everything, I noticed The GI was out in the backbox.. so I knew to look at J120 and low and behold... Some nasty hack work...
[quoted image]
Although, it could be much worse.. most connectors were pretty clean and some had even been replaced, but I will replace them with the correct IDCs as soon as my Huge PBL order comes in
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After re-pinning J120 correctly, I organized all the wiring as nice as possible.. Disconnecting nearly everything and re routing in a much more sensible path.
[quoted image]
Look at all those lights
Next I went over the entire machine... Checked every switch, every wire, every mech for functionality. Drop target, slings, pops were all non working. You would have thought fuse.. but it was loose connections... Easy tweaks and adjustments. Noticed my metal ball stop on my left habitrail was MIA (joy....) The right habitrail was missing a structural piece (sigh....)
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Pasta anyone? lol
Then I began to remove everything off the top playfield
[quoted image]
DIRTY
[quoted image]
Filthy ramp...
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Not so filthy ramp after flame polishing
Wet sanded every single ball guide, habitrail, trough, legs, trim, lockdown bar with 1200 grit sandpaper and 91% alcohol
[quoted image]
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Then I began to scrub the playfield
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Before pictures
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After
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Final reassembly
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Cabinet pictures
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Definitely happy with how it has turned out thus far.. Still have a lot of work to do to it.. But thats all mainly cosmetic upgrades.
I'll continue to update as I do more and more to it, but here is a short 1 ball play video of it as it sits now. Plays brutal AFThanks for reading!
[quoted image]
Nice shop job, that's a beautiful game!
In the future do yourself a favor and replace the bad IDC connectors with trifurcon and molex.
I have put 30 or more in my game so far (my game had some corrosion issues). The main issue is the quality of the wire and insulation has degraded over time.
Trifurcon and molex doesnt depend on the insulation to hold and secure the connections.
It only takes a little more time but will last WAY longer.
If you have questions about this, just ask
I would try J-116, the wire colors look similar and its black instead of the regular white color connector.
Unplug it and try the new one there.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:It’s always bugged me with the shooter handle they went with on T2.. then to reuse it but only change the grip pattern slightly for STTNG. How hard would it be to make a shooter handle for this game? Or any game?
If I could somehow find a shop or someone who could do metal castings I would fully fund the project. I want my shooter handle to resemble his Hero 1887 Winchester shotgun as used in the movie.
Anybody know where to start with a project like this?[quoted image]
The IJ or Shadow or Dirty Harry gun handle would likely work with a little TLC.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I got the dmd in! It looks amazing! Stumblor is great to deal with!
I pluged into j1118. Gameplay goes fine until the ball goes to the cannon. The cannon moves to fast and when you shoot the cannon the game re-boots! Lol
I need an adaptor of some sort. Or external power supply.
Richard
[quoted image]
did you try it in J-116 ?
The colors match, it would have been my 1st choice.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Ok! Can you post a link for the one you recommend?
Thanks!
Richard
Stumblor has some info on this:
https://stumblorpinball.com/en-us/products/pin2dmd-external-power-supply-hook-up-cable
https://stumblorpinball.com/blogs/news/adding-an-external-psu-to-a-pinball-machine-wpc
power supply here or something similar:
Quoted from SideLaneDrainer:I am a new member of the club. I got my T2 earlier this year and have been lurking in this thread for the past few months to learn how to master this machine. My specimen had its challenges and seems to have been on route for decades! The guy I bought it from made sure it worked electronically: boards revised, NVram installed, L8.3 rom, etc., but mechanically it had its flaws. The gun needed adjusting to make sure you could hit all targets, drop spring was too weak, etc. The usual for this machine I quickly learned reading through all the posts here. Got it all fixed thanks to the shared knowledge in this tread. Now I am working on the cosmetics: thorough cleaning, renovated the skull and replaced some plastics. All lamps were already replaced with led, but the GI was mainly blues and reds. It seemed appealing at first, but I quickly got fed up with it. Now I have replaced that dark lightning with Sunlight style leds and I am loving it. So much better imho!
One thing I am struggling with is the metal plate above the row of 5 targets. How to place it? Looking at the zillion pictures in this thread there is no common agreement on this. According to some veterans the metal barrier should go behind the targets and that was my initial setup. However I experienced that the lower target was difficult to hit as the ball bounces of the metal. Now I have changed to the setting with the barrier up. It plays better and the shape of the plate seems to confirm it actually is the right way. How was it intended?[quoted image][quoted image]
Second picture, barrier down and behind the targets.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:I replaced all coils with new
What was wrong with the coils?
Did they "ohm" out incorrectly?
Did they need new diodes?
Have you considered the "bright eyes" from pinball life, I bought them and they look really cool.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:I just like "new". I also wanted to do my own soldering (as someone else did a terrible job in the past on them) and that the plungers flow in nice and easy.
I've ordered a few different T800 model heads off of Etsy that I'm going to try and fabricate to fit in place of the stock.
New coils are pretty and look fresh but:
Recently it has been reported that the "new" coils may not be as good as the older ones.
In general and for the future as this comes up a lot:
New coil sleeves and new plungers make the coils fire "like new".
Diodes can be replaced with more robust IN4007 to make them new.
The coils are just a roll of copper wire that seldom fails. The resistance chart is what people use to see if a coil is like new still.
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
You can sonic clean the coils or put them in a dishwasher to clean the grit off of them. Then blow them off with compressed air.
LTG has suffered through the new coils and has had coil failures that had never been seen before.
The consensus is that due to the high cost of copper, the new alloy is inferior to the older one and is less flexible or fails more easily?
So, I dont buy the new coils any more unless there is a resistance problem or the sleeves are super tight due to swelling.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Very interesting, these had tight coil sleeves.
If the coils sleeves are super tight and difficult or impossible to remove, the coil has swelled.
If you cant get a fresh coil sleeve into the coil, the coil should be replaced. If the sleeves press in firmly, but go all the way in "and the resistance checks out", the coil is still good.
Its a good practise to have a couple coil sleeve kits available to manage maintenance.
The same sleeves are used in many games.
I mix and match sleeves from a variety of coil sleeve kits all the time as needed.
Quoted from AD72:I need to replace the gun trigger spring. Anyone have the size information or where to get one? Also when I was a GSPF they had STNG gun handles for sale but they were dark chrome plate. I would guess that would be a direct replacement.
The STNG and T2 gun handles are interchangeable and (other than the "grip" texture difference) "exactly" the same.
The T2 gun had a different molded "grip" texture, personally I like the STNG handle better, its more futuristic looking, but its not stock.
Its cheaper and better to rebuild your gun with all new parts and swap the handle halves for plated ones.
https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/terminator-2-t2-gun
I had to completely rebuild my gun trigger to get it to work right, firing-pin, spring and bushing, including a new cabinet switch.
Marco had all the parts.
Manual here:
Quoted from ravve:I am about to make my own side art blades, with self-adhesive "chrome paper".
I wonder if anyone has a template and/or the correct measurements that I can use to cut after?
Ive seen that treatment.
It works best if the wood is sanded flat, filled, primered and painted.
The surface should be VERY flat.
Quoted from tripplett:I don't have an answer on your lights, but make sure you don't get the replacement skull popper from Marco. It consists of plastic and metal parts that are just press fit together and doesn't have the pin to hold it together like the original pieces. This was covered a few pages ago on this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/199#post-7533047
Yep, get the one from ministry of pinball.
I posted about this, its REALLY nice.
Quoted from little-italy:Thanks looking for a chrome one. Anyone chromin these?
Send yours in for an exchange:
https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/terminator-2-t2-gun
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Hey guys,
I have been advised to double check something here. This connector from the transformer. Is it wired correctly?
Thanks!
Richard
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I just looked and its exactly like mine.
Quoted from scampcamp:Ohh no. I just realized that the last 5-6 years that I had T2 that there was no rubber tip on the shooter rod & see some mushroom damage. I don't play it alot so that probably saved some damage to the pf from beat up balls.
Would a T2 need a special shooter rod since it's not the usual manual pull style?
The part number should be in the manual.
Quoted from scampcamp:Figured out it's not mushroomed & doesn't use a rubber tip. It has the auto-plunger which uses a nylon tip.[quoted image]
Yes, thats why I said check the manual to familiarize yourself with the unit.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Those skulls look nice !!
I like the distressed metal one.
Although, I also like my cracked and "touched up" distressed plastic one too, lol.
Has anyone put the Halographic silver flipper bats on?
I think they would look COOL !
I also think chrome colored bats would be great if anyone had them still.
Quoted from nugsy:Stupid question - how do people recommend getting to screws in the back portion of the playfield? It doesn't slide forward really (though I know I could pull the hinge off the bolts) but with the playfield resting on the cabinet arm, I have a tough time reaching some of those rear screws to replace plastics or rubbers. Really tiny screwdriver? 90 degree screwdriver?
I have a couple of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-DR-55-Profile-Ratchet-Screwdriver/dp/B00B4TECTQ/ref=asc_df_B00B4TECTQ/
They are WONDERFUL for tight places and have a thumbwheel !
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Has anyone seen an original translight fade to transparent or is this most likely an aftermarket translight?
[quoted image]
It looks like someone may have used an aggressive cleaner and washed all the white backing off of it.
The white backing is VERY delicate and WINDEX will remove it.
Quoted from mmr61184:Really, I have been told windex is the way to go and was least aggressive.
I think it has to do with ammonia.
Ammonia free cleaners are best for pinball.
Still however its best to NOT soak the white backing, it gets soft real fast.
Quoted from Whatnow213:Anyone know how to put these wires back into the female connector? I never worked with this type of connector before.[quoted image]
Jam a fresh piece of wire (further down the wire a tiny bit) into the connector with the edge of a
credit card. Sink it all the way down to the bottom.
Use a tiny screwdriver to help press the wire down firmly.
The proper fix is to replace the connector with a molex type.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:I’ll probably get a bunch of shit for this but…..
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I think this looks Wayyy better and more theme fitting than that dumb phaser looking shooter handle.
I just need to have it black chrome plated and all the rest of the trim as well and she’ll look reeeeeal nice
No.
Quoted from mikeflan:What I need is one of these, but they don't ship to the USA:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/3772/overlay-for-terminator-2
Anyone in Germany wanna forward this to me in the USA if I have it shipped to them? Thanks.
Pinball center parts can be good, or very bad.
Its a toss up.
It would be great to see how good the decal is.
Quoted from mikeflan:What I need is one of these, but they don't ship to the USA:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/3772/overlay-for-terminator-2
Anyone in Germany wanna forward this to me in the USA if I have it shipped to them? Thanks.
I would just wait for buthamburg to get new playfields done:
https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields/50013-terminator-2-repro-playfield
They are nearly finished and are BETTER than the original.
They will also have plastics and cab decals to make your game SHINE!
Quoted from Scoot:I have the Bride of Pinbot playfield from buthamburg and it is hands down, the best replacement I have ever installed.
Im on the list for the T2 playfield, plastics and decals.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:It does look nice! Love mine.
I was going to get my old playfield clear-coated. Decided today it would make more sense to just get a new playfield. Hope the make them soon!
Richard
I made the same decision.
I would only pay the big money for restoration if I could NOT get a new playfield.
T2 playfields will come out soon enough. I have many projects before I can get to it.
The game plays like new as it is, other than a few misfires on the gun (that is TOTALY new and rebuilt including a new switch).
Probably just molexing the switch wires on the CPU board will firm it up.
Quoted from Doknkeyshaunjr:Hello!
Today at 11:30 AM I became the proud owner of a T2 pin. It's my 1st real machine (I also picked up a Godzilla Pro). The game is so much fun. I absolutely love the MIDI style 90s guitars and I mean the shooter is a gun handle for crying out loud.
I did have one question though. I think I may have something on it I need to fix. I keep hitting the left side ramp (that has the lock and database lights) and the ball just sits there. The machine goes through a diagnostic where it tries to find the ball and after about a minute it pops back out.
I'm guessing that's not normal behavior but I'm not sure what the best approach is to fixing it. Any ideas would be most appreciated!
Since you just got the game:
go into switch test mode (edge) and test every single switch in the game with a ball.
note the results and fix/adjust as necessary.
Quoted from Sehested:I have just brought this from Morpheus on pinside. Very nice product and super good communication.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-cannon-laser-mod
I love the laser! It seems to fit the theme of the game.
Some call it cheating, others call it technological progress.
Im on the fence about it all, but will probably get it down the road...
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Where is the best place to order side rails for t2?
Metal or wooden?
https://www.pinballlife.com/47-316-williamsbally-wpc-stainless-steel-side-rails-set-of-2.html
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-rails-reproduction-rails
Quoted from durgee7:Look what I found! Washer in the G.I. socket!
[quoted image][quoted image]
WTF ?!?!?!?!?
Quoted from durgee7:Averell,
I did a quick hack and reconnected a G.I. yellow wire that looked cooked (pics) at the connector. This was the same issue with my old Judge Dredd. Unfortunately, G.I. is still not working.
While in the cabinet, I also noticed two wire terminals that were not connected. (pic included).
Tripplett,
I ruled out the power driver board being the issue by following your advice and removing J121 while F106 fuse was included. Once I reconnected J121, the fuse blows. Here's a quick video:I am now going to check each and every light socket/led along that white/purple G.I. string.
I appreciate all the support!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Get rid of that wire nut.
It needs to be re-pinned and put back in the connector.
At the very least solder and shrink tube it.
Quoted from Dan_Halen:Anyone ever have a successful skill shot trigger multi ball? It doesn't seem to start the animation or scoring, but the game definitely kicks out the remaining balls. It's pretty consistent, so I'm not sure where to start. I was going to see if there's an issue with the trough switches, but was just looking for any additional pointers. Of the nearly 30 games I have, this is the only WPC and since moving it I've been having several issues including the ColorDMD no longer working. Just wanna tackle one at a time though, so the multi ball thing is first. Any input would be great!
Maybe replace the shooter lane switch.
Quoted from Kabball:Hey guys been about 9 months since I was last on this forum and probably missed countless helpful posts. Anyhow I am about to start my T2 total refurb.
By way of reminder my cabinet was incredibly bad, I bought a brand new Williams Cabinet reproduction with T2 graphics from Virtua Pin. Took forever to get but looks great. I got the one with full trim meaning coin door etc etc.
Okay so now I am back to my dilemna on the playfield. Mine looks okay after cleaning and now I debate clear coating it and rolling with it or getting a new playfield since everything else will be so perfect and new.
Are there any options available atm? A quick search shows that one out of Germany has not had another run or I can't find one for sale. One ebay company had the stick on variety. Any suggestions on playfields out there in the wild to buy and use for this project or am I stuck refurbing my existing one?
Thanks - feels good to be back.
Buthamburg should have them by the end of the year.
Quoted from JvdS:Can someone please make a picture of the power board with a close up if J120 and J121.
I need the wiring colour for both but someone hacked the molex, it's a mess.... and I'm not sure if the stupid new wiring connects to the correct colours...
Would be great, thanx in advance!
[quoted image]
Time to read the schematic I think.
Quoted from durgee7:I appreciate any tips you guys have on keeping the slip-fit plunger from separating/failing
while waiting for ministry of pinball to reopen:
Drill a 3/32" to 1/8" hole thru the plunger and plastic end piece.
Press a 1/8" roll pin thru the hole. Grind off any excess.
It will hold forever.
I did this on mine to get it to match the original.
Later I got the Ministry of pinball part as its WAY superior, but really the one marco sells just needs to be pinned.
Also put a little silicone oil on the end cap to make sure it operates freely.
Quoted from durgee7:I plan to remove the assembly, desoldering wires from coil lugs in the process
Get used to molexing assemblies instead of unsoldering them.
The skull plunger assembly is a BITCH to work on, Molex it and NEVER look back.
Molexing mechs as you work on them is SUPER important and will change your life.
See my posts on this plunger repair please.
If you have questions of how to start, PM me or ask here and Ill post links and instructions as I always do.
Quoted from AD72:I must have shorted the wires to the single drop target when I was working on the machine. I noticed a nick in one of the wires and it must have shorted out. The coil went melty. Sleeve completely melted. I put in a new coil but still no actuation when I run through the coil test. I attached a multimeter and got no voltage when doing the repeat coil test. I am afraid to go look at the power board. I may have shorted a fet. Thoughts? Which fet is it on the board and what type?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Check fuse F-103 before anything else. It might be an easy fix.
The drop target has 2 coils on it:
One for raising it, and a little one for knocking it down.
Q20 is the transistor for resetting it (big coil).
Q52 is for the little coil that Knocks it down.
Sadly, sometimes when a coil is shorted, it does kill the transistor associated with it.
Its not too hard of a fix though.
Replace the both pre-driver and the driver transistor as a pair if that is the only problem. Sometimes you have to replace the resistor and maybe a diode to shotgun the circuit if its burned to a crisp.
The numbers are on the transistors and they might be listed in the manual on the driver board page.
Marco sells them as well as Newark electronics.
Quoted from durgee7:The Data East VUK plunger assembly with cap has been tested and is working well. I'm just posting as an alternative for a pre-pinned shaft (with cap spring). I'll make sure to update if anything fails with the assembly.
[quoted image]
It looks "stock" and should work just fine.
Quoted from scampcamp:I looked in the manual & couldn't find the part numbers for the T2 flipper button contact assembly. (both sides). Anyone know where I'd look? Thanks
Are you looking for the cabinet switches?
Page 2-37 in the manual, 1st 2 lines.
switch:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-10A-48
the complete assembly:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9990-1
But Marco is out, you can however just build one up from parts
or Pinball Wizard claims to have them:
Quoted from jibmums:That's just the bracket that holds the prop when when it's not propping up the playfield. Screws to the inside right cabinet, look and you should find the two holes.
It screws into the little wooden block.
Quoted from Averell:My suggestion is to use Mylar in that area where the cannon fires the ball to the targets and where the balls fall off the wire ramp.
And don't forget the Cliffy's!
ALWAYS mylar the "pops and drops".
Quoted from mmr61184:Drops definitely, but pops even in a home environment
Yes.
Its such a pain to do it after the playfield is populated.
And its insurance for the future,
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Can you order a cliffy set for this game? Or is there a wait time?
Yes you can, and always there is a wait time.
Quoted from Calze:Hello everybody,
yeah, i finally joined the club three months ago! I love everything about this game - the artwork, Arnie‘s callouts, the original cheesy 90s arcade music, the simple ruleset and so on… played it first back in 1995 and instantly fell in love.
The game usually runs really nice, there were just a couple of little fixes here and there to do. Yet i discovered two strange problems - the 2nd one isn’t a real problem - and i‘m curious for your opinions:
1. The pin seems to need a little time to warm up like an old car engine. That means when you power it up and immediately start a new game, every time the volume is lower than normal and once and a while the game also goes dark after 2-3 minutes and restarts/reboots. But if you power the pin up and wait for 5 to 10 minutes everything runs stable and perfect for hours.
2. When i make the „database“ shot i NEVER received „Autofire” as the random award. I know that these awards aren’t really random at all but not once in a hundreds of times?!
Get the latest ROM, its amazing!
Quoted from Gnassel:Is this normal and within tolerances? Is it the same with your playfields?
Yes
Quoted from dinot:Anyone else having issues with FedEx? They are claiming that there are customs clearing issues. But I am not convinced. It arrived into the US (Indianapolis) late on Thursday evening. And since then it went to Baltimore, MD and then Linthicum Heights, MD (my local hub). If there were a customs issue, would it not have been in Indianapolis? It has moved inside of the US since then.
I have had issues with FedEx "making up" reasons in the past for not being able to deliver. For example, I had a driver last year who wouldn't work on Fridays. Any delivery meant to arrive on Friday would always get a bogus reason (usually, I'd get business was closed in the exception note on the tracking....which is interesting since I am a residential customer) The reason I am not convinced about it being a customs issue is that I didn't get a customs issue until it made it to my hub.
I am just frustrated with FedEx and am venting now (especially, since I need to leave town tomorrow and I don't have anyone here to accept the delivery)
When the delivery is CRITICAL and time is of the essence:
Fedex, UPS, USPS will ABSOLUTELY let you down HARD !
One helpful thing I am using recently on Amazon orders is their lockers.
They dont seem to be able to deliver any time that anyone is here to recieve the shipment. Then off it goes to Alaska or somewhere else...
But they do seem to be able to deliver to a locker WAY faster and more efficiently than my home or business.
That said, things are NOT the way it used to be and deliveries are sketchy at best, at least around here.
Its gotten so bad that I have had to meet up with a driver to pick it up on route from the UPS truck because they couldnt guarantee deilvery EVEN THOUGH ITS ON THE TRUCK !
I also have had success having Fedex and UPS hold my delivery so I can pick it up myself.
You might call them, explain the situation, and have them hold it at a location nearest to you.
Quoted from Kabball:Looking to order a Color DMD for my T2 recreation project. LED or LCD? I thought maybe LED would look a little more retro but color? but in watching the videos on the site they seem kinda hard to tell apart.
Any advice on which one to get?
For the money, I would get the Stumblor wide screen display.
Its only slightly more expensive but is a one piece drop in replacement with all new components.
Quoted from Kabball:Going to be ordering all new coils
Coils are only a spool of wire that rarely wears out.
Unless they are damaged, they should be good.
The copper in the older coils is more ductile than what is being put in the new coils.
The older coils are better.
Quoted from Kabball:How come these flippers I have do not use that extra bracket and spring the kit came with in the picture here? Should I just throw it on and use it anyhow?
[quoted image]
Read vids guide to rebuilding flippers and it might become clear as to whats going on.
Upgrading to the newer style return springs that came in your kit are MUCH better than the original setup.
Your questions are answered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
The yellow non-polarised capacitor that you labeled "not used" is clearly shown on the schematic that you provided above.
The capacitor is used to reduce pitting of the contacts on the EOS switch.
Quoted from dinot:Folks,
How should I lubricate the cannon gearbox? I've seen it referenced on here but not exactly how to do it and what to use.
My cannon (with the glass off) sounds a bit harsh. Like it is struggling. With the glass on, it seems to move ok (so when you can't hear it). Yesterday the board that is soldered on the bottom of the motor broke off on mine and I rigged it back. The tabs off of the motor broke and I used short pieces of Romex to rig it. I was going to just replace it with a new assembly but I rethought it and rather than give in and drop that much coin, I want to see if lubricating the gearbox will help it at least sound better.
Thanks,
I pulled it out and sprayed it out with WD-40,
Then LIBRALLY sprayed WD-40 gel or bicycle chain grease on all the gears.
Then ran it on my bench with a 9v battery until is sounded good.
Then I blew it all out with compressed air and wiped out the extra grease.
Then I put a towel down in the game to catch any drips for 2 weeks and wiped it off as it dripped,
So far its quiet and drip free weeks later.
Quoted from dinot:Interesting. I was thinking grease of some type or gear oil.
Is there an obvious place to get the lubricant in there? Do I need to remove the motor and go from there?
Theres a big cutout in the side of the gearbox that you can see and lube all the gears.
Mine was pretty dry so soaking it down for awhile with wd-40 to clean it, then greasing it worked very well.
Any type of the new no-drip chain lube sprays will work great.
I used the stuff I bought for my garage door opener.
Its very simple to pull out the mech.
Quoted from docquest:I got my cannon apart and will be using brakleen to get the old hardened grease out of the gearbox.
What type of grease or lube is recommended to put on gears once they've been cleaned?
I use chain lube or WD-40 gel these days.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/215#post-7968012
Quoted from durgee7:Update: I double-checked both underside cannon position microswitches and they activate as intended. Somewhere, there's a disconnect between the ball launch trigger switch and cannon. It fires intermittently only after really pressing the trigger harder than normal.
I replaced the gun switch and adjusted it so that it activated about 3/4 into the trigger pull.
I also rebuilt the gun assembly by replacing the plunger, spring and associated parts from the manual.
Marco had everything.
In spite of this, sometimes there is a "lag" from pulling the trigger and firing the cannon.
I think its software related, but could also be a loose connectror on the CPU board or power variations, as it doesnt happen all the time.
Its minor but annoying when it happens. I havent delved into it deeply yet.
Quoted from Averell:Why on earth do you want to buy this crap for that poor plastic hunter ship?
The better solution is to save the money and order the UHKS from AVO in Germany.
Might be talking about the Dystopic pinball one:
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/dystopicpinball-com/terminator-2
Quoted from docquest:Still working on my playfield swap. Can you tell which one is the original part, LOL.
Is it normal to get that deformed after 30+ years or was something out of alignment?
[quoted image]
That is abnormal wear.
More like "willful" destruction.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Weird issue.
The gun trigger works in test switch. And when launching ball it works perfect. But after the ball is loaded into the cannon I have to press the trigger twice for some reason.
Any thoughts?
Thanks![quoted image]
I had the same issue once in awhile.
Adjusting the switch so that it clicks about the middle of the triger stroke helped a bit.
I finally replaced the switch with a new one and adjusted it to click pretty close to the 1st quarter of the trigger stroke.
Still it fails once in awhile.
Reseating the connectors on the CPU board also helps a bit.
Next when I get around to it, I going to replace the IDC connector on the CPU board with a trifurcon.
I think the random trigger failure has to do with a loose or corroded pin on the IDC connector or pin on the CPU board.
One test I did was to test the switch 10 times before a game was played in switch test.
The trigger didnt fail on that game.
So, check the CPU switch connector first maybe.
Quoted from CraZyMuffin:I could use some help tracking down a shorting plunger coil transistor if anyone has any ideas
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-plunger-coil-locking-on-q58-shorting#post-8067426
Sounds like a bad coil or coil diode, or a shorted wire.
A bad transistor will definitely cause a coil to be locked on.
Bad shorted coils will blow transistors quickly.
You could also trace the wires from the auto launcher to see if the are pinched or grounded to something metal.
Basically the only mechanical parts involved are the connector at the driver board, the wires, the coil and the diode.
If you unplug the connector to the coil (j-130 ?) or (j-127 ?) or both, does the fuse blow?
If you unsolder the wires from the coil does the fuse blow? etc.
Quoted from CraZyMuffin:Coil is new, measures 3.9ohm, board is new dumbass board, neither coil wire shows any connection to the ground braid, but it still blew the transistor.
On my last test (with new transistor), I unplugged both connectors at the board and jumped the pins to the coil with alligator clips. It worked. So must be the wires.. now to figure out what's going wrong with the wires.. didn't see anything obvious
If it doesnt blow up with the connector removed, its the wire or bad diode.
I have recently received coils with bad AND reversed diodes on them.
Yes they put them on backwards sometimes. You really have to check stuff these days.
Dont EVEN get me started on the CRAP that Marco has sent to me recently, I would be embarrassed if I were them.
AND they wouldnt resolve it....Oh well...
Quoted from MStem80:What's different in latest game rom?
TONS of improved features and settings.
Its REALLY nice.
The changes are in this thread.
Quoted from LTG:I don't have it handy. Here is a picture. You can see how far it sticks out and maybe guess the length. It can stick out more, so doesn't have to be exact.
LTG : )
[quoted image]
Ive seen old house keys used for this...
Quoted from jrcmlc:Look at how fuckin nasty these posts are. This game came from a guys house and had been there for decades...with the original rubbers on almost everything, I think he just waxed it and let the rubber get all funky in the wax residue or something.
[quoted image]
You aint seen nothing yet, lol...
Ive dealt with MUCH worse.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Some progress. The terminator head is going to be an issue, one of the rivets is broken, plastics broken, fairly hard to tell how it all goes together... Might post about that later.
I posted some things about mine in this thread.
Maybe it will help.
Quoted from jrcmlc:There has to be an order to how this thing all assembles around that up shot wireform, I imagine there 9 ways to do it wrong and one to do it right. Does all of it get assembled and then wrapped around the wireform is the wireform supposed to be out when this is installed and then the wireform installed after? So much of mine was broken that it may have come apart in a way that, when not broken any longer, or can't go back in that way.
A picture would help.
The VUK installs from under the playfield. Is this what you are talking about?
Quoted from jrcmlc:I will take one when I'm near it, thanks. I'm talking about the t1000 head and all the plastics around it, the metal ring around the back etc. I got all of that off in one piece but parts are broken, once I fix them, I'm not sure it'll go back in the same way I removed it lol.
I can take pics of my game if you need it
It all does go together in an odd way, but makes sense once its all assembled.
Mine was assenbled TOTALLY wong lol.
But hour on the web helped me get it right.
The one thing that threw me was the big piece of foam in the skull.
Thats was ACTUALLY a fix recommended as a service bulletin.
So, I made a new piece of foam, BETTER, and got it assembled correctly.
The service bulletin mentioned using packing material from the game setup etc...
The stainless guard surround? it goes on loosely as per spec, but is interesting as it stands.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Here are pics of the cluster I removed.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Not too bad actually.
Broken right plastic, but theres a guy on Ebay that has them.
I bought them.
You have more pieces that I had when I started.
My skull was cracked and broken, but little fiberglass tape and epoxy fixed him right up.
Get the bright eyes from pinball life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html
It seems silly but it DOES make a huge difference.
There is also a regular white spool spacer in the rear somewhere, that keeps the plastics at the right level.
Dont over think it, it really only goes in one way to get the skull NOT at an angle.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Speaking of stand up targets, it seems like wiring them on the bench with molex might be the move on that....thoughts?
Thats how I do pretty much everything.
I also hooked up 2 4smd led lamps to the drop target.
one white lamp from the GI, and a red one off of the lock insert so it flashes a little.
It makes a difference to me and does look cool.
If you look theres a dimple for a lamp already there behind the drop target.
The lamp was deleted during production.
Quoted from PhillyArcade:Is this even good? lol
[quoted image]
Looks like a prototype ROM?
Get the new 8.4 ROM
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Cleveland, OH