New member to the club.
I already had this thread marked as a favorite. I already have 2 mods coming from Judge Dredd gent from the UK, the Hunter/Killer V2 LED mod and the red eye mod for the upper left T-800 plastic.

Cleaning it up a bit first. And if the mods come in soon all the better.

You may want to look into the flat rate 'if it fits it ships' boxes. The boxes are free and the USPS cost is under $6.
And there are way around the Paypal fees.

Again thanks for this supplying the community with an affordable mod.

Or $8.95 from Amazon.. And Prime Eligible!!

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Wings-Jetranger-Police-Markings/dp/B0013SMM22/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1

I'm expecting my copter today. I'll probably hold off installing it until I an figure out how to add blue/red police lights to it.

Spotlight eh? That may be an easy one to add. Even tied to the flasher circuit if I used a 12vdc one. Hmmmmmm....

Tail mounted it eh? I was thinking of using the hole on the opposite side and a bent stiff wire up to the skid on that side.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dmd-extender-update#post-1281896

Now there is a mod!

As promised, here is a vid of my T2.

Fully LED'd,
Cointaker blue light up flipper button kit,
Hunterkiller mod,
T-800 red eye mod in upper left,
T-800 skull teeth hand painted and Comet Bulbs Optix as eyes instead of the 'condom' look
and Hot Wheels Helicopter on ramp.

I may be interested. My apron paint is fairly beat up. Let me know.

Does it have LED or incandescent flasher bulbs?

Well then, from one 'naud' to another,,,, sounds like you have the 'warming resistors' issue that happens when install LED full LED flashers and you no longer need to keep the incandescents 'warm'. It was common on System 11 games to have to remove them if you went LED flashers and that is the symptom you have.

I 'thought' WPC-95 didn't use them, so let me go dig out some prints in a bit and take a look.

Did this just start or did it work fine prior?

Bad link Mocean. What were you asking for it? Drop me a PM I'm just up the road. I *errrr* I mean Santa already has me a set of the regular blue ray, not the collectors pack, but a topper would not be a bad idea.

Nice of Judge to make those. Even if not lighted, that a common missing part.

Now if he did them in 'english',,,,,

Speaking of T2 mods, tonight I made and installed my own undercab lighting kit on my T2. Hooked it temporarily into the flasher under the right ramp. I'll perma connect it to that flashers output off the driver board in a day or so. Cost me under $20 using;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MSAKZK

and

http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Connector-Conductor-Strip-monochrome/dp/B0062RBR84

I'll take some vids and pics tomorrow.

I just used it on my T2, and if anyone wants to see a side by side comparison.....

DSC01157.JPG

While I'm posting T2 pics, instead of those FUGLY condom eyes on the T-800, or paying for the mod eyes, I cheap'd out and simply used some nice Cometpinball non-ghost led's for mine.

I also used 3 of those 'sparkly bling things' inside my pop bumpers along with 3 more of the Cometpinball non-ghost bulbs..

DSC01158.JPG

I did sir. Just used some Createx (sp?) airbrush paint and a small brush. Mixed a pinch of black into some white and freehanded.

Nice thing with these paints is that you must use a heat gun to set them, so if you F'up you can just wipe it off with a towel prior.

Another thing I did was to use clear washers in my lane guides as protectors. T2 uses non-standard guides and are not exactly the easiest to find. Always out of stock, or one one style on hand.

There was not an 8 inch option (never is ) but I ordered some with the thought that you only need that couple of inches for the furthest back of the side and you could patch that in fairly easy, and no one would notice unless they shoved their face up in the cab.

Rock add your url to make it easier for folks to find you. Unless PM's are best?

Thanks for the link Rock.

On that sellers other auction it did not have 8". ebay.com link: Mini Diamond Plate Vinyl Tape Choose Your Size

I would combine that with the Nordman's Sparkly Pop Bumper Enhancement Thingy

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3069

Here they are being used in my T2... It would hide the 555 wire and cover up the white inside of the pop body.

DSC01158.JPG

The Judge's HK mod has blue lights that sequence from front to back while GI is on and a pair of red leds under the engine pods that flash when the lamp you hook them up to does. I have mine hooked to Extra Ball.

Dare I say, $10K by Christmas.

deal.gif

Also if any were #44/47 style sockets, make sure you didn't spin the lug around where it is now touching the mounting tap. And shorted LED's are not unrealistic if the epoxy broke as you were twisting them in.

Sure. Ohm meter. Disconnect GI ohm across the two leads, should not show short. You couls even start removing bulbs and retesting with power off. Or you make a circuit breaker adapter in place of the fuse. Easiest thing is just lift the playfield and go over.with a fine tooth comb looking for.what got crushed or twisted.

Exact same set up I've been using.

+1.. here is the Service Bulletin.

Service Bulletin: SB 33
DATE: September 19, 1991
GAME: Terminator 2
SUBJECT: POSSIBLE BALL HANG-UP BEHIND SKULL
SYMPTOM: IF 1 BALL IS IN THE SAUCER UNDER THE SKULL AND ANOTHER BALL HITS
IT WITH SOME DEGREE OF VELOCITY THE SECOND BALL MAY DEFLECT INTO THE
SKULL
SOLUTION: USING A SHARP EXACTO KNIFE, CUT A 2-1/4' SQUARE CUBE FROM A
CORNER OF THE SHIPPING FOAM (NOT STYROFOAM) PACKED WITH THE GAME,
SUPPORTING THE BACKBOX FOLDED DOWN ON THE CABINET.
IF THAT FOAM CANNOT BE FOUND, MOST ANY FOAM RUBBER CUT TO SPECIFICATIONS
WILL DO, OR A FOAM RUBBER CUBE (PART # 23-6671) CAN BE ORDERED FROM THE WMS
GAMES PARTS DEPARTMENT.

(Insert picture of back of skull)

Pull skull forward gently, compress foam rubber cube (2-1/4' sq.) and insert in skull below "eyes"
bracket. Release foam and tilt skull back to original position "looking at player'.
Make sure that the ball gate wireform swings freely after foam is inserted to prevent other problems.

Define unable.

Unable to hit them when shot because the ball does not make it?
Unable to hit because the ball will not launch?

If unable to launch, there is a cam with a switch on the underside of the playfield that stops the cannon from shooting past its outer limits, it is probably out of alignment.

They were always cheap knockoff's... Sneeze on them and they break. Just don't mount two on the playfield and don't point it out to anyone and no one will EVER know.

To paint the teeth, I used Creatix Airbrush paint and did it by hand while it was mounted, then fixxed it (Creatix needs heat to set) with a heat gun.

DSC01158.JPG

Pm sent..

I used the IPDB L-8 rom a couple months ago no probs. Got to remember its a larger file and you will need bigger EPROMS than the L-6 fit in or it will not work.

Nice..

I've danced this dance before.. To use L-8 you must upgrade to a larger EPROM than the factory 2G,

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-rom-questions

For me, I went from L-3 to L-8 because I was chasing an odd scoring issue with the 3 targets up dead center, which turned out being a miss wire from factory.

That was my issue. You hit the left one and the right one lit and visa versa.

I ended up swapping the two trigger wires to correct it. After I did I noticed that if you twist the module 180deg that the lamps are on, it may have fixed it also but it looked like it would stress the wires.

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

Thank Tony. He put a ton of work into that.

Andy version has a micro chip to sequence the light and a separate input you can tie to any bulb (like the skull lock) to make the sequencing stop and the engines flash. I 'thought' pinbits was just flashing based on 1 input.

True. True.

I like it, I worked with Andy directly and he was able to bundle the HK ship mod and the Skull ramp LED mod to save me shipping. Nice chap.

No, I have the stock red ones on mine, however, I did use the 'Sparkly pop bumper things' under them with LED.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3069

As Arnie would say, no problemo.

I don't know if I ever posted this before, and I ain't reviewing 66 pages of T2 posts to check, but here is my T2

The vid was prior sparkly things, prior to the Super Band flipper rubber, prior to the red filter I put on the DMD, and prior to all new targets I replaced about a month ago. I'll post a new one to youtube same day.

lawlz..

Standard posts you can buy at most any pinball supply house..

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=91&pg=1

White would be terrible to keep clean. Go with whatever you think would match that area.

Noooooo. It should not be mushroomed. It should have a nylon tip screwed into it. Kind of of like this:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=681

Not sure if this one will work but you get the idea.

To hold golf tee's?

If it spikes for the new release, it will come right back down once the box office dies off.. Always does.

And I am one of those T2 folks who is NOT selling his, not because of some lame sequel, but for the memories of playing it when it was originally released. Good times... Good times...

Pretty sure it's 3x 5/16ths rings. One each post. If I remember tomorrow I'll snap a pic of mine. I like those pop bumper lights, bought some from Melissa on Friday for an StTNG.

I went with the factory red ones, then used a single large upfaceing SMD for the LED and a Denis Nordman Sparkly Thing for the inside of the pops... This pic was prior to the Sparkly Things http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3069

DSC01158.JPG

There is a rubber placement chart in the manual on page 2-40... Any additional rubbers you see or do not see in pictures was 'artistic freedom' of the owner.

Don't remember if that game is a 4ohm or 8ohm...

The 4ohm I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066BO2QK

The 8ohm I use: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-8-Classic-Woofer/dp/B0002KRBH8

Does it always show that? Or just when you manually activate it?

If always, then your switch is broke 'stuck'.
If only when you activate it manually, then switch is fine.

^ this before you go metering, ordering or replacing the switch.

Then you either have a bad switch or a short.

NOW, is when you would take a meter and test the switch. One trick prior to testing or replacing is to remove the wires from the switch and see if it still reports the switch stuck, if not then your switch is stuck shut or the 1n4004 diode is shorted. If it still reports that switch with the wires removed then your looking at either a problem in the switch matrix or a shorted wire under the playfield.

At 2 ohms, it looks like you may still have the diode installed. Is it?

Usually a stuck switch shows at 0 ohm.

With the wires off the switch the DMD still shows that switch in error? If so, that is odd. As the switches are in a matrix, any failure on the row or column logic will manifest as a string of bad switch errors. Not just one.

Hard to make out that picture to tell if that is green marker or green corrosion.

P206 pin 5 is column 5 and pin 6 is column 6.
Switch 64 is on column 6, although so are 5 other switches. Hence it being odd that only this switch is failing and it not being just a bad switch.

That being said, is that green corrosion? The batter holder and batteries look clean. If it is corrosion, it is just below the batteries and very well could have been battery leakage that was fixed but the connector not caught/replaced. If those pins are corroded you will want to replace them. If they are not the problem now, they will be shortly.

Also I love the electrical tape fix to the GI wires just to the right..

Scamp,

That J206 pin 5 (Column 5) and Pin 6 (Column 6) are trash. Luckily the board connector looks 'ok'. My guess is someone caught a battery leak early, before it did damage to the board but not before it dripped directly down onto that female connector.

I would replace those 2 pins and that housing (FWIW, I'd replace all those IDC pins for crimp style) before doing much else with regard to the switch you are having trouble with. That switch 64 is on Column 6 and on of the effected pins on that connector.

Great Plains Electronics sells all the pins and housings for what you need.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

I also highly suggest you move those batteries OFF the cpu and onto a remote holder to save future troubles.

Woot!!! Congrats!

Refer to the manual, page 2-36.

See the switch matrix up top?
Find your switch in the multiplication table below it...
I 'think' the skull lock is called "Top Lock" and is switch 55.. According to the table it should have a white-green wire on one end and a green-black on the other.
Confirm that is what you have to make sure we are talking the same switch.
If it is,,,,
Go back to the top matrix, find switch 55, then look at the blow up of a diode just above that multiplication table.. It looks like;

White --|>|- Green

The BAND on the diode is facing the green. And looking that the chart you will see all top row wires are green with a stripe, all left column wires are white with a stripe.

This help?

9.5 times out of 10, your cabinet is not level side to side. Drop a level across the front, then against up against the backbox.

T2 do GI dimming but only when it goes to 'sleep' after some time of being turned on but not played. It is adjustable in settings. T2 does not use GI dimming during gameplay.

My T2 fully LED'd..

Older vid, I've done some work to it since then and will post a newer vid when I get 10min to myself

You may want to change those bulbs to frosted to diffuse them more. Clear bulbs there are just asking for blown retinas.

20140812_144700.jpg
20140812_144628.jpg

Mike Chestnut in the US not only will rechrome T2 handles, but usually has fully rebuilt ones in stock for faster turn around. Plenty of threads exist.

It's a Pinsound board, you can do what you want. What this guy did was his personal preference. If you want to use original sounds and mix in some redone sounds, go for it.

Is a good idea.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/soundtrack

Huh? Its a simple 1N4004 diode. If you own a pin you should have them on hand as they are used everywhere.

If the switch is not passing edge tests and it is the ONLY switch your having trouble with then high probability you found your problem.

And if use a meter to test them you should look at some Youtubes. They test different depending on what lead is on what, whether in circuit or not, what meter you have, basically 548 means nothing.