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Any place to get the T1000 mod that isnt doubling the original price? I think its awesome but I cant justify $150 for it.
This is the seller I bought from
ebay.com link: itm
you can cut the 11"x14" piece in half , and use it on 2 machines. I put the other one in my Street Fighter but it doesnt pop nearly as much and I'll probably take it out. It BELONGS in T2 , its definitely the best bang for the buck mod.
I actually saw it when looking up old threads here on pinside about T2, dont recall who thought of it first but it wasnt me.
it filters the light and make the orange DMD look red. I can take a better pic when I get home. I also installed Metal-mods pop bumper "chrome" stickers. These were installed before the RubyLith, so the DMDis still reflecting orange. I need to buy new glass :/
17545377_10211608122374486_501488597798478261_o (resized).jpg
17546988_10211608106294084_927459503253144079_o (resized).jpg
30th post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-red-dmd-filter
the DMD is still nice and bright, not dark at all same as that guy.
I didnt peel anything, I just cut it in half and put a little piece of tape out of view on the back of the DMD cover plastic. So its sandwiched between the DMD and the plastic cover; same for SFII.
I have no fuzziness issue either.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:But there are 5 Terminator movies!
T3 doesnt count :p
Mine is also almost ALWAYS 2nd from the bottom, sometimes it hits between 2nd from bottom and the middle but it still counts as hitting the lower middle target. Never tried to adjust or look into it because its the same every game.
Shameless self promotion, but I finished T2 for color DMDs
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pin2dmd-colorization-of-terminator-2
Artistically speaking , I dont like the inside blade art alex posted but I do like the one chitown showed in his pix. That being said, if you like that art alex, then put it in your machine and enjoy it! As for toys, they are hit and miss for me but if its your machine and you like them , have at it! I just try to keep mods 100% reversible so if I ever have to sell , I can revert it back.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Someone made a custom ROM to remove that sound from attract mode. This is the only way to do it. I have the file if you need it otherwise I can burn you one if I have a spare eprom in my stash.
I'd love to get that rom too. I currently have the "profanity" rom but I have "fuck you asshole" disabled in the operator menu.
Quoted from rx3:Started working on the Cinemachines Aerial Hunter-Killer ship. Going to have to make or find some lenses for the headlights and burners.
Im giddy with anticipation to see the end result!
$730 on what is basically a brand new play field with a couple of inserts wrong is still a bargain. Swapping the wiring below is a good idea, just leave yourself a note in the machine that you did it. I have a fairly bad wear spot above my hotdog insert and I'd be happy if I got the PF you did.
Quoted from Arcadedl:I've got an extra Brock T1000 chrome figure mod - had bought one of each of the chrome and color ones a while back, and decided I like the color one best. This has never been installed, and also comes with the apron instructions cards included by Brock.
$85 shipped
You should PM ahmedreda on the previous page, they were looking for one.
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:Oh and to the people who like to spread misinformation, no we don't outsource, everything is made inhouse by our team.
Pete
Retro Refurbs
So are you lying now, or were you lying then?
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:It's a special arrangement I made with local print company, and despite this we're cheaper than all other retailers of translites.
Pete
Retro Refurbs
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-2-is-terrible/page/5#post-3699512
At least you didn't refute that the reprints are unlicensed!
I'm not gonna stir the pot with ya Alex, sorry. Pretty sure Ryadimx remembers me from KLOV anyway. But to ignore someone all you need to do is mouse over their avatar and pick ignore , so there's a little short cut for ya!
I thought we were cordial enough in the T2 colorization thread /shrug
Anyfart, Im still a happy member of the T2 club I even have the Data East rip off pin of LW3! :p
So the "Skull shot", I hit it almost exclusively with the right flipper. My buddy Bobby hits is almost exclusively with the left flipper. He cant hit it with the right, I can't hit it with the left.
How do you guys hit it, and who can show me the left flipper technique?
Well does the ball speed matter much or is it just hitting it at the correct point on the flipper?
I'm not above pulling the glass off and just trying the shot over and over
I can never hit the "database shot" so I figured I'd work on this shot first. Most of my scoring is done by triggering "payback time" and hitting even more ramps but jackpot and super jackpot is where its at.
And no Alex, I don't ignore anyone.
Ive owned the pin about a year, didn't rebuild anything. I don't think they are the issue, I'm pretty sure I am. For all the pins I own I aim for stuff on the right with the left flipper and vice versa. With Comet I can hit the center ramp all day long with the right flipper....not so much with the left
I definitely need to replace the escape route targets though, they are beat to hell and misaligned.
I jut reverted from the profanity rom to L8 but I havent broke 200M yet :/
Maybe I'll pull the glass and give it a go and see what happens.
Any place else sell a package deal like this, or have all the parts.......cheaper?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TS1779
ChiTown, I'll give the 200M+ points thing a go this weekend, just not enough hours in the day during the week.
Quoted from ypurchn:How were you not the FIRST person to have your own code installed?!?!
I was, but I pulled it out to work on Godzilla and Lethal Weapon 3 Those are done so this one went back to its home and I ordered more hardware
I need an Arnie plastic so bad =(
Quoted from Fezmid:You have to hit alternate ramps, each 5 times (so 10 shots total). If you can combine payback with multiball, you can really rack up, assuming you can keep track of all of the balls. (I usually can't LOL)
My best game not involving hitting the super jackpot, was done with motorcycle loops. I maxed out the value (5m) then hit like 8 in 10 seconds lol, you get the 5m plus a consecutive million bonus. Sometimes the timing is just perfect and you can really get your loop on.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:SCHEHERAZADE misspeling on TotAN bites on my nerves everytime I see it!
Shahrazad is also an acceptable spelling, how do they spell it in TotAN? I'm just curious.
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:its_me_aj Monk Check out service bulletin #33
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf
This will answer and solve your issue
Different issue. It's not about the ball getting stuck in the skull, its about getting 2 balls trapped behind the drop target. When you lock the Skull shot during multiball (for the jackpot multiplier) you can sometimes get a 2nd ball behind the drop target before it has time time pop up and "lock the ball" behind the target.
Happened to me a ton, I just increased the angle of the game a bit and it happens a little less frequently.
Cards going to be free to download or plastered with your watermark like all the art you showed off over on BYOAC?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:PLENTY of cards out there for T2. No sweat off our backs.
Agreed, the colors are too muddled anyway. Black stroked grey text on a grey background.......
It was more idle curiosity than anything else.
Quoted from Averell:Because he always offers what he can do for free, but in fact nobody there got anything from him. He never shared anything for free and bothered the community with his penetrated behaviour.
so exactly the same reason he got banned at BYOAC
Quoted from Averell:Man, I'm out of here... don't waste my time with that Mikonos bullshit anymore.
We'd rather have you than that bag of beans.
He watermarked a fucking picture of him holding a piece of vinyl -_-
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Just make one post with all the info. We don't need a bunch of your threads peppered in here promoting your product.
Hows about he starts his own thread instead?
Quoted from ForceFlow:But they're about different things and all relevant to T2.
Is there a reason why it bothersome in this case?
specific user's history perhaps (not just pinside) ? I mean that's why I'm irritated by it. If he didn't have the shit reputation he has, I'd still be annoyed by all the giant useless pictures.
The most bothersome aspect that every post is about shit he's selling , and no real interaction with anyone about anything else.
I'm with snakesnsparklers
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Does anyone need a T2 speaker panel in good condition?
I do, $?
Mines pretty chewed up and gnarled.
Quoted from Mikonos:I have printed results. It is difficult to photo chrome material, but it is so beautiful!
I think instead of the PM threats he's just reporting all the posts. So in an effort to be more civil and more verbose I'll try again.
I disagree. Your color choices are questionable at best. The greys muddle together despite the entry level stroke effect around the content text. The choice of red on the "highlight text" is practically unreadable. Sure its more readable with the sun on it, but my pinballs are indoors.
The fence location is poor...... mise-en-scene, and the framing of the text exacerbates the clutter. You may be talented at vectoring existing art, but you lack the fundamental knowledge of art to make your own.
This is not an attack on you but a critique of the "art" you are peddling. If this were a watermark free for all download I'd be less critical but when you are presenting it as a commercial offering, its just not that good. I'd advocate starting your own "art" thread rather than unnecessarily and repeatedly posting to a club thread. There is a difference between "hey here's my 'art' to buy/download" and "hey here's 6 posts full of in progress shots and giant screen shots".
Quoted from Mikonos:... and my custom "crew" card.
And you some how made an even less readable card than before. Your usage of stroke and drop shadow on every layer isn't a design choice, its just an amateur "effect" that every newbie to photoshop does, I used to do it too. Just like the lens flare you used on the Terminator logo. I'm actually shocked you didn't stroke and shadow your water mark. You center framed the next but immediately throw off the image balance by placing logos down the left side. The biggest design flaw in pretty much everything you do is that your images lack contrast. If you have a super dark back ground you use light colored text; if the background is light you use dark text. Its like beginner design 101. If I were going to highlight text, I'd add a soft color tone to draw attention, not completely change the color or use multiple colors to highlight.
Quoted from Mikonos:I like to add information, I think it adds beautiful and useful information in my opinion.
Regards
Ahh yes, without ever seeing this card I would have never known this game had a dot matrix or that Schwarzenegger was the Terminator.
Super awesome of you to give the original artist credit for using his work on your cards:
https://dadmad.deviantart.com/art/Skynet-T800-Factory-424669286
I didnt even mention how the background isnt even based on T2 at all.
Quoted from Arcadedl:Those do look awesome...is their anyone out there willing to print a set for me. I'd be willing to pay a few $$ for time and materials/shipping.
Thanks,
Dan
I am pretty sure I have an extra set. My machine came with them, and when I bought the T1000 mod he packed in another set. Lemme make sure I can find them, and you can have them for free.
EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do have them. Just PM me a shipping address.
Quoted from Averell:Where's that stupid Mikonos Clown?
He got a 1 week vacation from the thread. Don't Beetlejuice him back!
RE: Laser I thought about adding it and wiring in a toggle switch. I don't need the laser to line up the shot, but when my mom visited she couldn't hit the target to save her life.
No doubt it's cheating, but I could see the benefit for total neophytes. I cheat a different way, I lean over to the side of the machine. Well I used to, I can actually just do it without even looking now. There are audible clues for the first shot too.
I thought about buying the laser cannon mod without the laser (He sells that too) just because I like the look of it.
Quoted from SeaLawyer:I'm not interested in it for a tactical advantage. Even before I joined the military, had extensive weapons training, qualified double expert 7 times, and multiple tours down range, I had no trouble hitting the targets on T2. I just think it looks cool as hell!
Then get one, and make the laser be off target
awwwwwman my SFII Alt translight looks SO MUCH BETTER NOW! I knew it was missing something. Speaking of Alt translights, Im working on a T2 alt , all original based on the movie. I commissioned the art so, Im gonna have to break even on it before I release the files for free. Wont clog this thread with large teaser pix but I will post when its done. stpcore will be providing prints as always.
Here's a small section of it, I put a very unobtrusive watermark on it.
He started regular multi-ball, then the trough detected the 4th ball thinking he instant drained and shot it into the playfield.
got a better pic of the back of the playfield picture? The one that is usually just Arnie and Robert Patrick ?
Quoted from Soulrider911:Ya I can snap a pic tonight mine has the chrome ed one... however if I could have found try original that is what I would have used. But it’s grown on me kinda like the reflectiveness of it
I'm going to make a custom one to go with the new translight I'm making, but that one looks neat. Be cool to have a better look at it.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Here is a pic of the backboard decal on mine. Sorry only one I had on phone may have to zoom in a bit I’ll try to get a better one
Yeah the Cannon VUK wireform is in the way , I zoomed in on the other pic and I got a good idea of what it looks like but if you don't mind I'd still like to see it kind of up close and personal
Quoted from Soulrider911:No color DMD, personally I don't feel it does much for T2... compare that to Indy that is chocked full of amazing animations... Indy is a must.
For me, it'd be worth getting for the video mode alone (something I couldn't do on pin2DMD, making colorDMD the better choice) , but I get where you're coming from. The majority of the animations don't really lend themselves to colorization in a manner that matters. Its mostly like, closing doors and shit, but man, the video mode is a brazillion times better with it. The HK Explosion is pretty cool too.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Even color dmd for this title...there are like 4 animations, maybe 5?
Yeah but the their videomode colorization is pretty great on T2. I guess no one is going to want to buy my new T2 alt translight when its done =(
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Got a preview?
Hopefully RetroRefurbs wont steal it and try to sell it out from under me like he did with SFII. That's right, he got banned for persistent copyright infringement -_-
Everything is in 300 DPI or higher. Its definitely busier than the default translight but the pin doesn't have very much of a movie tie in. I plan to redesign some plastic pieces too just so its all a little more cohesive
And I need to re-enforce that this is a commissioned piece by opt2not. I put together the basics in photoshop with movie scenes and he's making it a true work of art.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Sorry bro. Love your work, but def not putting any more money into my t2. Translite looks a little busy IMO....
Yeah I know that art is subjective and some people wont like it, but its for me I'm just making it available in case other people want it. The original draft was way busier, lol.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:DMD Extender is a great option for T2. If you buy a good used LCD panel from eBay you can be all in for about $200. I have mine set to 4 shades of red and it looks awesome, but you can choose other colors to swap in as well.
RubyLith is like $10 with almost the same results.
if anyone buys a set in the US, and doesn't need the arnie plastic, I'll buy it off of you. Its my only cracked plastic =(
I'm going to ensure fitment , and snap some pix of it lit up, yours will be the first order filled if you still want one This is probably going to be a very limited run,maybe 50 total
Looks like you have a credit dot too, so make sure you go through all the switch tests after you sort the lighting out.
lol.
That translight looks neat but doesnt line up with the LEDs very well. Im waiting on my final print so I can start selling my alt translight.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I hope its just the photo quality, otherwise the colors on that PF are very badly faded... And if so, I hope you got a killer deal on it!
Its my crummy cam, the PF is pretty much perfect. There is an ever so slight raise in the "you'll be back" insert but I'll take that over the wear at the hotdog insert on my current PF.
wornout (resized).jpg
yeah we know, mine are getting changed to blue. I believe they are saying those are still the original factory sleeves?
the special insert being clear IS unique
I started my play field swap today, 2 hours in ,looks like barely anything done. Reran the wiring in the head and I've got a bunch of connectors to replace (burned, taped together,etc) and I wiped most of it down. It was filthy.
Are these factory drywall screws? /s
drywall (resized).jpg
I have new targets to replace those anyway, I just thought it was funny. I'm going through and moving all the posts that I can, then I'll flip it over and move all the electronics, then solder all the connections back on, then finally put it back in the body and start putting back in the ramps and stuff. If the hotdog wear wasnt so bad on this game I probably wouldn't bother swapping the PFs but I got a restored one within budget and this is one of those games I dont ever plan to get rid of.
I've been taking a crap ton of pictures as I go in case I or anyone else needs them.
As long as it isnt too pricey to order that tiny piece I will get one.
Im going to pin the solenoids with QCs if I feel up to it, else they'll just get re-soldered. The ball trough cliffy didnt have adhesive but it'll get put on when the time comes. Which at this pace will be the Christmas after next -_-
that goes to a PCB under the playfield that I think can only plug in 1 way, so the PCB must be upside down
Swap that bulb with the one next to it. If the problem stays in the same spot, its likely a trace on that little PCB or possibly wiring to that PCB. If the problem moves its the bulb.
Shouldnt the center target be red? and you should tweak their positions
I've played a hand full, they all had red center targets and the one I bought also had a red center target.
I think mine was also a re-import.
Quoted from Manny65:Well all the T2's I've seen here in Australia have never had a red target there and checking the T2 Parts List is shows 5 white (A-14690-5), 3 orange (A-14690-15) & 3 red (A-14691-4)
I know for a fact mine werent stock, I mean its pretty obvious:
merp (resized).jpg
BUT, I always saw the center target red, so I just assumed they used what they had on hand in red (and in this case, white too lol).
Quoted from retroware99:I just picked up a T2 with a bunch of minor issues and have most of them sorted. But, I have a somewhat embarrassing question. The knocker is not working and I am unable to identify the solenoid/assembly. It might be missing or I might just be an idiot. It was not at all clear from the manual were this is located. A picture or description of where this is located would be greatly appreciated.
I finally slid the wire harness over and started bolting stuff back down. I replaced the pop bumper skirts with new blue ones, going to eventually order new blue clear caps. I also have 2 flipper rebuild kits.
Should I bother buying a playfield protector? The entire topside is still stripped so it'd make for an easy install.
T2again (resized).jpgAlmost done my PF swap, so I decided to go ahead and rebuild one of the flippers:
Everything removed:
dirtmcgirt (resized).jpg
Scrubbed:
scrubbed (resized).jpg
hand polished:
polished (resized).jpg
and all back together:
AFTER (resized).jpg
I know the vid1900 guide says the diodes don't go on the coil stop end, but this is how it was and it worked fine. I only rebuild the flippers cause I had to clean the gunk and I figured I should since its all apart anyway!
I didnt realize the kit didnt come with them till it was too late, so I just got it as clean as I could. They are only like 80 cents a pop, not worth reusing at all to be honest.
Well who ever did the work on this game before was just winging it. I can make all the shots easily enough, I only did the rebuild kits because I had the machine apart anyway. Still undecided on ordering a PF protector.
Off the top of my head so far I've had:
3 drop targets held together with drywall screws
Speaker wire used for the flipper coil wiring
A drywall screw through the left flipper bearing all the way into the playfield
drywall screws holding the back left corner together
2 targets that mounted the wrong way
GI lights just hanging down under the PF
There's also only 2 bolts holding the gun together and 2 others bolting it to the machine. I'm not going to mention all the wire hacks in the loom or the GLOBS of solder on the replaced switches.
I still need to find replacement bolts for the gun though.
Mine almost always makes it, likely always will now with the restored PF and plenty of wax.
Why is the tip out so far on yours?
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I like your instruction cards!
Where can I find those?
mine came with various mods I bought. I have a spare set of the "T1" style cards if you want them.
2020-04-18 (resized).jpg
I can send them in an envelope, no worries just PM me a shipping address.
Now this......
gettinthere (resized).jpg
this puts a smile on my face. I just gotta plug everything back in ans hope it doesnt catch fire.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Looks great. I always feel the same way when I do a restoration. I say a small prayer and then......it always works lol
You must pray gooder, I wired it all up, flipped the switch and the LEDs under the pop bumpers let out their magic smoke.
I pulled the wiring off of the pop bumpers and taped it off, I'll track down the fuse in the morning and try again. I'll probably just get the rings that go under the pop bumpers, and wire them into the GI and not use the wires and staples that are already there.
So after melting the pop bumper LEDs , then unhooking the wires......
alllitup (resized).jpg
I have it all back together and mostly working.
Issues are:
Balls not detected in the trough , I am going to try to adjust the switch and switch placement.
Ball loader arm thingie takes 2 or 3 tries to get a ball in the shooter lane
Right side GI is out, going to try and find the correct fuse that I blew with the pop bumper wiring
Figure out the right way to wire the pop bumper lights
AND THE BIG ONE....
The cannon doesnt move. I have no idea where to even start to fix this.
EDIT: Also the 2 scoops where the database shot and the one above the multiplier lanes aren't detecting the ball either. I did swap out the scoops with clears but I might put the reds back and see if that fixes it.
The ball loader arm is fine, its the cliffy thats sticking up a little, so Im going to try and fix that.
Quoted from Averell:I guess this is a differents between american and british english?
https://www.dictionary.com/e/judgement-vs-judgment/
Both spellings are socially acceptable but judgment is the more common spelling. I cant say anything, I made the same mistake on my custom translight's first print. I only call it a typo because the movie's title lacks the e.
Quoted from Lackpants:Covid 19 has let me work in the basement to social distance myself and I've made alot of my own mods.
So honest feedback, the roses look really bad and out of place (Im aware of the roses in the movie). The Cyberdine building..... its a great idea but in the movie it didnt have a giant sign on the top, just one over the door. I'd ditch the words and put Arnie with a mini-gun in one of the windows instead.
Quoted from smcclain65:Does anybody know where these clear blue flipper bats came from? These are really nice with the clear rubber. I looked at marcos and pinball life and didn't see anything.
I forget where I got mine, probably ebay or something, Ive had em for years.
I found these and they look the same:
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-machinery/flipper-bats-and-shafts/transparent-blue-williams-logo-pinball-machine-flipper-bat-with-shaft-20-10110-10/
or
I sent my original apron to Mr_Tantrum and he made me a replacement one that looks factory. Shoot him a PM.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Can I ask how me charged?
Be faster to just ask him direct, I dont remember :/
The blackest of blacks and you cant tell its a vinyl.
anyone have a line on where I can find replacement bolts for the gun? both the mounting bolts and the ones that hold it together.
ok so after a year I finally got my GI working and the cannon moving!
So onto my next issue.....
My left most trough switch is broken, the one with the "hook"
hook (resized).png
(not my machine but thats the switch)
I dont have a t2 manual so I cant look up the part number, anyone have an idea? I think that being broken is whats causing my trough issues, and even if its not the fix, it still needs fixed.
EDIT : Just to clarify, that picture is NOT of my machine, just of the switch Im talking about, I grabbed the image from the photo gallery of this thread. I know its missing a diode, mine is not, mines got a broken switch actuator that snapped just short of the hook.
EDIT 2: found it
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-12
EDIT THREEEEEEEE: The switches were cheaper at Pinball life, but Marcos had the gun bolts I needed and shipping costs killed the idea of ordering from both vendors :/
cost (resized).png
I finally got around to installing my custom ALT translight.
Lights on, machine off
T2Alt2 (resized).jpg
Lights off, machine on
T2Alt (resized).jpg
If you want one, Jeff West @ ArcadeXL is the only one allowed to print them. This wasnt some art snagged from a website, this was custom made for me by the very Talented Bryan Gillingham of the Artcade blog.
https://www.facebook.com/XLarcades
Just message him and tell him you want the custom t2 translight you saw on pinside.
Thanks but I already ordered everything from Marco per your suggestion. I was playing a game after fixing the trough switch and the left flipper died, so Im going to try and get that sorted tomorrow morning
Decided to paint my dull worn guns. I cant afford powder coating, so this is a good bandaid.
3 light coats of satin black , 3 light coats of clear.
I left the trigger unpainted for contrast and because I figured it'd wear off and be half painted in no time.
Quoted from JohnTTwo:The second issue is the bonus lights on the right start with the 5,000,000 light and progresses down the board towards 250,000 Proper points are awarded jus the wrong lights are on.
Spin the light PCB around 180 degrees.
I'm out guys, been a member a long time but you can welcome DorkInAbox with open arms
Quoted from KJS:Couple of chromies on the go..one for me, one for a friend [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Why you gotta make me miss my T2 so much? :/
Quoted from KJS:Another couple of chromes on the planet....
With a custom coloration (not as custom as max tho, thank god)
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