I have 2 things I just can't seem to fix so off to the expert fellow T-2ers'

The target ights for the cannon are intermittent, they work I can hit the right target at the right time from playing so much and it regristers points or hits but the lights are not on. Works about 50/50

The second issue is the bonus lights on the right start with the 5,000,000 light and progresses down the board towards 250,000 Proper points are awarded jus the wrong lights are on.

Any help is greatly appreciated, gotta it get it working perfect love this game.

Wow sounds so easy, where would I find the light PCB? I have no clue sorry to bother you.

Thanks going down to finger this out appreciate it!

Just tuning up my T2. I love this game!!!!

I have a issue that is random. Some times the cannon target lights don’t light up. I can usually guess which ones I need to hit. When I miss it will light up quickly so I know for next time.

Any idea on why these lights would occasionally work? I am checking the connections again.

Thanks in advance. John

Oh and these attached pic were left over from the flipper rebuild. I am guessing they are not needed.

B8E0358F-C631-41D7-B81B-6546F7450B3E (resized).jpeg

Thanks so much it didn’t have them. Any way you can snap some photos of where the leads go? I definitely will add them and mine had the skinny little spring so I didn’t use the big ones.

Thanks again!!

John

Is there a post or process for setting the gun to find the home position? My gun will randomly just start swing back and forth and I have seen in test mode, gun can not locate home?

Thanks for the help, oh and I am going to look into the skull ball sensor when the ball gets locked in the skull sometimes it does not regrister but when the machine does a ball search it finds it and I get to "load the cannon" and shoot.

So needing some help on where to get started. I have like 3 switches that are all not working, happened at the same time I assuming it is not the switches more of a wiring or board issue.

The switch in the ball drain that fires the solenoid pushing the ball out out of there. The right out-lane switch and the first target on the bank of three targets to lite the kickback.

I looked for a lose wire in this are and have found none loose, checked every fuse in the game and they are all good, I have swapped out all ribbon cables as well just as a preventative deal.

So what should I be checking next? Thanks in advance, gotta get T2 up and running.

Thanks will do that now.

I imagine that a stop is missing from the plunger solenoid ah?

Pinball life for the replacement?

Thanks

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Found the loose wire. Ground wire fell off the 3 bank advance. That target was working because it’s ground was still connected but the string of grounds from the non working switches was off.

It was the white with gray dash wire.

image (resized).jpg

So one of my coil end switches was not opening. Lead to stuck flipper. I removed the sleeve. The new sleeve is TAF tight as.

If a coil sleeve won’t go into a coil is the coil bad?

Thanks

It is not burnt anywhere or stinky at all. How is the best way to see if the coil is shot?

Thanks

I am tighter then bark on a tree and was thinking a little sanding may do the job. How stupid is that?

I can’t find the part number for the plunger stop. Can anyone let me know what it is? Thanks John

Fellow T-2’ers

I found out why my skull wasn’t always working.

Where can I buy the plastic ball cradle driver rod?

Here’s a pic with the broken part and a faint red arrow pointing at it.

Thanks in advance!!

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Thanks I am not very efficient at finding the correct item at Marcos.

It leads me to this part

515-5352-00 plunge

From this kit:

VERTICAL UP KICKER (VUK) COMPONENT KIT
#565-0029-01
Vertical Up Kicker (VUK) repair kit contains plunger, cap, spring, spring compression clips and roll pin.

Order this kit if you need the 545-5227-00 Vertical Up-Kicker ball "cup".

Ships un-assembled.

Contains the following components:

545-5227-00 ball popper cap
515-5352-00 plunger
266-5025-00 spring
270-5010-00 compression ring (3)
251-5004-00 roll pin
Reference:

Data East / Sega / Stern 565-0029-01
Wico 18-002900
Weight: 0.1 lb

But doesn't say it is for T2

Product Compatibility
DATA EAST
STAR WARS (Data East) , TALES FROM THE CRYPT,

And mine is black not natural nylon.

PLUNGER ASSEMBLY 3.875 INCHES
#A-11336
Ball popper armature and nylon tip extension assembly.
Overall length 3.875 inches (98 mm)

Reference:
D-12642 bottom ball popper assembly
B-12505 bracket
D-11335-2 ball popper assembly
B-11631 bracket
A-11336 armature
D-11335-1 ball popper assembly
20-9314-7 roll pin dowel 3/32 inch diameter x 1/2 long
515-5352-00
Weight: 1.73 oz

BALLY
ATLANTIS (Bally), BLACK ROSE, DR DUDE, DR DUDE, ELVIRA, PARTY ZONE,
WILLIAMS
BANZAI RUN, BLACK KNIGHT 2000, F-14 TOMCAT, FISH TALES, HURRICANE, SPACE STATION, TERMINATOR 2,

Thanks for taking the time and looking at this for me. I need the shaft that fits into the plunger cap.

If you look at my pic I need the part that get driven up by the coil the top of it broke off and you can see where the pin goes into it cuz it is broke there.

Thanks I have the manual and the part I need is not on that fig. That’s why I was asking for help.

The part I need is between arrows 4 and 10.

Maybe it is part 2 if it’s one piece???

Thanks

Thanks so much!!!

John

Thanks so much for help, I did the spring and new cap as you suggested.

Everything is working perfectly now!! Whoot Whoot!!

ONe last question is there a easier way to get that little pin put back into the new plunger plastic hole. OMG it took me forever and the way I was pushing, pulling, and grabbing that thing I can't believe I didn't wreck something.

So please you guys have to have some trick or tool to getting that thing back in there. And don't tell me to spit on it!! LOL

Okay glad there was not a easier trick way to get it in. I left the assembly in my game and what I did was file the one end of the pin to a point. The first time I did not take enough off of it. Then it helped me get it started and I pushed it in using a vise grip on both sides of the assembly. But as you know that pin needs to in a bit deeper so it doesn't hang up on the cup itself so I used a needle nose and a small wire to push it in the final 1/16" and man did my back let me know how stupid I was for leaving it in the game. For anyone doing this in the future follow the advice from tripplett and remove it from the game all together. Oh and I was going to use a hammer I just didn't have the guts to swing it hard inside the cabinet!

Thanks again,

John