(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • 10,956 posts
  • 737 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by jrcmlc
  • Topic is favorited by 274 Pinsiders

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#7459 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Here is the reason my pop bumper caps are opaque white. They light up red and the center flashes blue when struck

I'm interested in doing something similar in my HS2. What are you using to create the 2-color LED effect under the opaque caps?

5 months later
#7828 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Thank you! Because this is driving me crazy...
I have been thinking about a longer post but the second problem is that its to wide (too large to the right).
What really puzzles me is if there are sold hundred of these ramps. Are only some(mine) wrong or or have all made custom stuff to make it fit?
Would love to have confirmation from some who has installed it and it just "dropped in". Thats why I am very excited that averell has one.
Still waiting for an reply from Larry..

What happens if you "test fit" the ramp by removing the rubbers off of the three posts? Can you get it to "nest" into it's spot? Do all the screw holes line up?

1 year later
#8629 2 years ago
Quoted from rx3:

Those are nice, but I prefer mirrored blades for T2.

Ditto. I have mirrors on mine and love the way it looks

7 months later
#8794 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Anyone have a solution as to why I can only enter 2 initials for a high score?

My bet is that your start switch is wired incorrectly. If the wire that should be attached to the NO terminal is attached to the NC terminal instead, this will cause the problem you are describing.

Question: when you start a game, if you press and HOLD IN the start button, does the game start? Or does it actually start when you release the start button?

4 months later
#9061 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Looks like he lost power on a lamp column.
As far as I can tell by the pics…

I think he means a GI string is out. Probably just a fuse if that's the case.

2 months later
#9202 1 year ago

I'm not a big fan of aftermarket toppers, but I made this awhile ago and I kinda like it sitting on top of my T2.

34 LED's were added to this 16" long HK when I built it, including a lot of blue "flicker" led's in the engine pods. The clear cover is just to eliminate a lot of necessary dusting.

2 weeks later
#9248 1 year ago
Quoted from jimjam:

Since we are on the topic, has anybody found a fix for the kickback to return the ball to the top of the playfield

Just for fun I put a ceramic "power ball" in mine. I was quite surprised to see that it gets kicked all the way to the top of the playfield every time, despite the steel balls never doing so.

BTW, a ceramic ball fires through the right wireform like a bullet. Don't knock it till you've tried it!

1 month later
#9358 1 year ago

i'm running 8.1, which I believe was the first version to remove the slamming door sound. 8.1 doesn't have the the profanity callouts.

2 months later
#9545 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Okay so as to the possible water damage and possible rust on the bottom of the playfield. I got a better look today and although the bottom of the cab is rather grungy looking. I feel like the bottom of the playfield is rather clean looking. Any thoughts?
I also put in a few playfield shots including the right inlane which I feel is the worst spot. But you can see a fair bit of that protective Mylar? Stickers around.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm doing a semi-scratch build starting with an IJ that was under water. By any chance have you pulled any screws out from the bottom of the playfield? Do they look like this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-and-indian-jones-semi-scratch-builds/page/2

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#9546 1 year ago

.

3 weeks later
#9634 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Curious, are there any specific LED lighting kits you folks feel stand above the rest? The game I purchased came with LEDs but I'm not loving the color layout. I recently added a blue LED strip to the top of the back panel and was surprised to see how UV reflective the paint is on the plastics and playfield! I really love these neon accents and would like to incorporate a setup that accentuates these features, but I also don't want to create a "blue monster" if you catch my drift! Any help (and photos of solid setups!) would be appreciated, thanks!

This is probably the most divisive topic in all pinball!

My two cents: It's your game - feel free to experiment and do what you want.
My (more detailed) two cents - I have a pretty decent collection of W/B pins, and I almost always use some version of white for the GI and I have migrated from using matching colored LED's for the inserts (I mostly just use white there as well). My BIG exception is T2. I love the glowing florescent rings in the game and I don't think the artwork is all that great otherwise (not an easy thing to admit on a T2 forum page). So for those reasons I just went ahead and did blue "clown puke" lights on this one to try it out with the intension of going back to cool white at some point... but I never did. So my TOTAN sitting right next to it glows in all warm white, and the IJ on the other side is all sunlight white... but the T2 sitting between them looks completely menacing with it's blue light and florescent highlights... I love it!

<Picture not added due to expected backlash>

#9637 1 year ago

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.

In my defense this is the only pin I've done this to... I otherwise HATE anything other than white in the GI's. I also a have a Pinsound Rammstein mix running on this pin (that I created) as well as a shaker and a TON of mods. You really have to play it to appreciate the adrenaline rush - personally, I play it more than any other pin than I have here (stock looking AFM, TOTAN, TZ, IJ, TNA, W20, etc).

I'm sure 95% of the folks reading this are climbing the walls right now (so sorry). But hey, it's my favorite pin and I'm NEVER going to sell it!

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#9642 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

making my own soundtrack for it would be incredible, so how did you do that? I'm sure it's been covered a hundred times so if you can just direct me to a thread or give me some key words it would be much appreciated.

It's just a Pinsound board (with a Pinsound shaker in it as well). The long version of how this is done can be found here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound/page/3

But in short, it's fairly easy. Go to the Pinsound site and download one of the T2 sound packages... maybe the original one to start with. The file and folder structure is pretty straightforward and intuitive. All you really need to do is replace the "stock" .wav sound file with your own replacement .wav file(s) for each sound you want to change. Getting the music cut where you want and setting audio levels when you create the .wav files is the time consuming part. I use Audacity for this. If you want to share your results with others you can load it up on the Pinsound website. I've made about 8 versions for Getaway (including Van Halen, the music from John Wick, etc) and some for a few for other pins as well. There really aren't too many music files in a T2 pin to deal with (about a quarter as many as are in a Twilight Zone).

#9643 1 year ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Well that will definitely stand out in a lineup! Many years ago I experimented with some blue GI, but found it so dull I couldn't see the ball nearly as well. Is that a problem for you?

It actually doesn't look this blue in person. But no, it's easy to track the ball.

#9654 1 year ago
Quoted from AD72:

EStroh What are the HK and figure mods you have there? I just got a T2 and it is all stock. Lighting looks good!

The interactive HK ship is from AVO Pinball.
I just picked up the figures from Ebay many years ago. Judge-dreads (from the UK) sells an interactive one with led eyes (also on Ebay).

2 weeks later
#9709 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaBeast:

Hey all - I've searched this thread and haven't seen anyone with a similar issue, and would love some advice. I just replaced a blown fuse that controls the solenoid that pushes the ball up the small ramp into the ball trough when it drains. Everything is working now, but when the ball is pushed into the trough by the solenoid, it is forceful enough to knock another ball into the shooter lane. So when my ball drains, another one gets unintentionally kicked in, auto-launched, and my game never ends. Great for a high score, but definitely not as Sir Ritchie intended.
I checked the settings to see if there was a way to decrease the strength of the solenoid, but I don't think that was a thing yet in the early 90's. Any advice that you can give me to solve this? Much appreciated!

You're correct, you can't "dial down" the power on the coil via a menu setting. You have something mechanical going on. My first suggestion is to remove the apron, start a game, and take a good look at the phenomenon. Hopefully the problem will be evident.

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