(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by jrcmlc
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dtrimberger.
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#9381 1 year ago

I did a search and also looked for a different forum post but didn't find a list. Any must have mods people like for T2? Picking one up this weekend.

#9393 1 year ago

Odd question but can somebody give me the standard size of the pop bumper cap screws? My caps need replaced but I'm noticing that they're may actually be 6 different screws holding them down

Thanks

Joined the club 2 days ago btw

#9397 1 year ago

Thanks everyone for the help. I had already looked at the schematics prior to posting but in T2 (and Getaway) the schematic doesn't show the screws.

A google search for "Williams jet bumper screws" did find these at marco which appear to be what everyone else has pointed out.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4104-01020-08

#9411 1 year ago

I noticed in Soulrider911 's rebuild that he used double rubber rings in the upper R playfield. Mine are only singles. What was original and what's everyone's recommendations? And any color preference?

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#9413 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

they should all be double-ringed as the machines came with metal and plastic posts specifically for double rings. Note double ring posts to the left of the upper lanes also.
[quoted image]

Thanks. And the white looks great. Currently have light blue in my titan cart but that might need to change to white or red.

Anything on the ring chart that isn’t accurate? I’ve been seeing some different numbers between the manual and the titan lists

1 week later
#9428 1 year ago

Quick led flasher question. Warm or cool white? And SMd or flat top?

#9430 1 year ago

The T2 I have has the old incandescents. I have cool whites in my cart right now to replace them so I guess I was looking to see if anyone has a preference in this pin.

3 weeks later
#9465 1 year ago

Anybody know the DMD backboard recess size off the top of their head? I was thinking of heading to TAPP plastics for a red acrylic piece to filter the dmd to red on the way home.

Thanks
D

#9478 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

13-3/8 x 3-3/4" so go a bit larger than that.

14 x 4 1/2 transparent red acrylic from Tap plastics, $4. Great mod.

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1 week later
#9509 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I didn't think flood so much but definitely a very humid environment, but maybe you're right.

I've never lived in a humid place while owning pins but wouldn't that have to be A LOT of humidity? Did you rescue this from the jungles of Borneo Kabball ? If yes please tell me you did it with a fedora and a whip.

As far as your restoration my fear for you is that you'll have a hard time offloading this pin moving forward if you don't fix the cab and it doesn't appear to be a simple fix. The restoration cabs listed above look like a nice option though, I wasn't aware those existed before.

Anyway, good luck, keep us in the loop on what you decide. I'm definitely following because I feel like I've reached a point in pinball prices where I might consider a cheap water damaged pin to restore at some point.

#9529 1 year ago

The folks at buthamburg are going to be doing a run soon, that may be the supplier to planetarypinball (not entirely sure but think so). I've been in contact with Peter there. They're moving into a new facility and are busy doing the Alien and Queen playfields. He estimated late January or February for t2 run but don't hold him to that. In the past they ship to the US, not cheap but cheaper than the link listed above.

https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields

#9530 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I will revise my assessment from the other day, perhaps this game wasn't in a flood, i'm convinced that it was left outside in the weather for a time. Perhaps on a patio, or maybe just out in the yard. Its obviously been rained on many times, or perhaps buried under snow. Its been in direct sunlight for quite some time, based on the planking and badly faded artwork on the playfield. I see more hacks than I can name, and why the hell would someone move the transformer for no obvious reason??
Dude, I hope you really didn't pay much for this turd... Assuming of course that you find the condition totally unacceptable and intend to return it to glory.
If it were me, I would salvage everything that is glass, plastic, and not severely rusted metal, and replace absolutely everything that is made of wood, including the playfield. Unfortunately, restoring this thing will probably cost you (parts and labor) at least double what it will ever be worth.

I agree on considering a full redo by mining the parts once everything for a rebuild is available. I also agree it has to be a labor of love, you'll never get back what you're going to put in it.

Nevertheless it might be a great pin to learn about full teardowns and mechs because nothing is terribly complicated about the pin yet it has many parts that are common for future pin repair.

I'm considering the playfield swap listed above because that's all my t2 needs really. It will be my first underside teardown but looking at it seems reasonable. There's another link a couple pages back to someone who did a full swap with great documentation. As others will tell you take a million pictures from different angles but also zoomed out and zoomed in. Try to categorize and separate sections/layers as you take them off. You'll need pics from others as well to help you solve all the hacks in your pin. I also find it useful to go find a relatively pristine pin to play so I can figure out what actually isn't working in my pins.

We might be doing a swap at the same time so we can share info as needed.

#9532 1 year ago
Quoted from dinot:

Had my eye on that. Planetary Pinball's is in stock but it is much higher than Buthamburg. PP cheapest shipping option is $72. So unless Buthamburg has an insanely high shipping amount it is a better deal. Though, I have no idea what it would cost to ship a PF from Germany to the US.

When I looked I think it was about the same or slightly higher ($20?)

#9534 1 year ago
Quoted from dinot:

Had my eye on that. Planetary Pinball's is in stock but it is much higher than Buthamburg. PP cheapest shipping option is $72. So unless Buthamburg has an insanely high shipping amount it is a better deal. Though, I have no idea what it would cost to ship a PF from Germany to the US.
Also, the one reviewer mentioned 2 things. I've done a couple of PF swaps, so not too worried.
1) "No T-Nuts installed." - No big deal. Insert T-nut, 2 light taps from the hammer. T-Nut doesn't need to sit flush with the PF. When you tighten the screw it will pull it up.
2) "You need to make the countersunk for the Pop Bumper mounting screws" - I have no idea what this means. Does anyone have a thought?

Check Soulrider911 's rebuild. He's the guy that does the suuuuupppeeer nice rebuilds (like crazy nice). He used a prior run from Buthamburg and some of his pics may have info on that.

Oh and ya, in my post I mentioned that Buthamburg isn't re-running til January/February so we're both gonna have to wait, but from what I've seen earlier in this forum the wait is worth it.

#9543 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Rotisseries definitely make life easier - check out the PinDoc version https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-in-all-metal-pf-rotisseries-for-18000-shipped
You can also make your own - if you goggle "DIY Pinball Rotisserie" you'll see lots of ideas

Yes, DIY rotisserie

I honestly think if you pump the brakes a bit and play the pin as is for a bit you might be able to save a few bucks figuring out which mechs need replacing vs repairing. By the time you get that done the new buthamburgs will be here.

#9562 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

A countersink with a flat bottom is called a counterbore. Use the proper term when searching for bits and you will find better results.

I actually searched for Foster's and a drill bit... now my holes are way crooked... thanks everyone

#9585 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

In my opinion the playfield can be rescued.
Here are some pictures how my playfield looks like before and how it looks like after a lot of work!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/152#post-5369816
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/151#post-5306554

At work and only had a chance to look at the links you posted but do you have your resto process/technique documented anywhere?

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