Looks amazing. I've got those same LED ramp signs in mine. That mod is an absolute requirement and really gives the pin a much more modern feel. GLWS.

Mine are RGB, but I think either would look nice.
The brightness is subtle instead of in your face, which I appreciate. Those old signs looked like total garbage.....I was almost happy when one of them broke so I could justify a better looking option...

The one thing I did learn from mod'ing this machine was: never buy/install a light-wire mod. I bought one thinking it would look great on the metal wireforms... Just looked generally sloppy and was a major pain to install. I ended up pulling it back out.

Just finished tweaking the playfield GI to something I'm happy with. Used to have all blue, with just cool white at the lane change rollovers.... Looked really nice but I found the lower playfield way too dark to see very well when playing with the lights off and the plastic graphics looked pretty bad.

Lower playfield converted to all 2 SMD Frosted Comet Sunlights and a blue cointaker LED Strip stuck to the bottom of the hunter-killer ship and alligator clipped to the GI under the playfield and everything is much brighter.

IMG_20180709_001659971 (resized).jpg

Did you also buy the mounting wire for the ship? You'll need that too.....

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7009

You can also get those on eBay for about 7 bucks shipped if you don't want to pay the shipping with Marco and don't need additional parts.

For lighting, I bought a $5 adhesive led strip from cointaker and just attached it to the bottom of the ship. Alligator clipped to the GI under the playfield. Helps a lot. See post #6653 in this thread, where I attached a pic of the lighting with that strip installed.

Pics attached. The wires in the picture just run to the light strip.

IMAG0022 (resized).jpg

IMAG0023 (resized).jpg

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Just pull. You won't hurt anything. I generally just pull one side out and then the other. You can wiggle/rock/rotate it a bit to get the second side out. Just push it back in when done and tap it all the way in place with a hammer if it can't be pushed in all the way by hand. Don't overthink it.

If you can't pull it out, I've used a piece if scrap wood between it and the playfield and then just use a flat head screw driver between the two as a prybar to get them out. The wood shim will prevent any scratching to the playfield.

If you can't find the exact guide, you can make your own from piano wire....pinball sites sell it exactly for that reason.

Which place would yall put them?
[quoted image]

Top and bottom of the slingshot plastics is almost always the first place to put them. Ideally, place them above the star posts but BELOW the screw holding the star posts in place if possible. So basically, the stack is star post -> fender washer -> post screw -> slingshot plastic -> nut. This creates a buffer between the washer and the plastic so if the washer takes a really hard hit, it won't pass the shock on to the plastic and break it anyway.

Those fender washer cost literally pennies, so if you are really concerned about protecting the corners of plastics, just buy a bunch and do as you will....or spend 20-25 bucks and buy and entire plastic protector set, which generally looks a little nicer and protects more that just the corners....

You'll need piano wire and a wire jig so you can bend it properly. Pretty easy. Marco sells one for pretty cheap.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593

There are a bunch of pinside threads on using piano wire, so check those out if you go that route.

Looks good! Since it looks like you are into modding it a bit, I highly recommend mirror blades on T2 and replacing the hunter killer ship with the cinemachines die cast model.

That's the cinematics model I was talking about, which is VERY nice. Looks like they must have drilled it out and added LEDs to it. I just bought the model and attached the existing wireform to it and added an LED light strip to the bottom and attached it to the GI under the playfield. Can't even see the light strip, but it adds a lot of light to that part of the playfield, which really needs it. No idea how much the mod costs, but my DIY version of this: $25 for the model and $5 for the light strip.

I bought mine off Amazon about 6 months ago with free shipping for that same price but there were only a few left at the time....it's more expensive there now. Supply and demand I guess.

I can't say for sure that LPMs is exactly the same....but the design appears to be identical at the very least. Maybe they cast one so they could reproduce/modify it. The engines on the cinematics model are not removable.

EDIT: without seeing it in person, but looking closely at the pictures of the LPM version, the turbines quality seems to be worse than the rest of the ship....and maybe even a different color/shade. This would support the idea of creating a hollow engine cast for the LEDs and then just replacing the original portion with them instead. Just a guess.

That is well done. Makes me feel like maybe I should clean up mine since it always bothers me but I just haven't dealt with it. What did you use as your cleaner to go along with the wire brush? You use a Polish as well?

Recently, and begrudgingly, exited the club and still have some unused cliffys for sale. PM me if interested.

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Partial Cliffy Set for T2 Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Cliffy Set for the Right Skynet (Motorcycle) Ramp and a cliffy for the upper kickout hole above the pop bumpers. Brand new, never used, still in packaging. $35 shipped in the USA...”

2019-10-19

Media, PA

cmack750

35 (Firm)

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 60 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)