New member to the club, love the game so far
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider br81zad.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Averell:Good to know - thanks.
We found some more issues to fix with the next release.
Checked today and I'm running L5
Know where I can get a set of L8.3?
Or is L8.4 close enough that I should just wait?
Started having an issue where the VUK behind the skull is staying in the up position at all times preventing the ball from sinking into the hole/cradle.
If I manually place the ball in the cradle and manually depress the plunger, it fires the ball up and through the habitrail no problem.
Anyone encounter this before? I've tried looking for previous posts on the site, but nothing I've found quite matches this problem.
Quoted from Manny65:Sound like the VUK spring that ensures the plunger comes back down is broken or the coil sleeve needs replacing. You need to lift the PF and inspect the mech - should be pretty easy to determine the issue
[quoted image]
Awesome, thanks. That's where I'll start.
I don't have a working example to compare to, but I would imagine the dowel pin should be fully inserted into the armature when properly assembled. (See image). There's also some chipping to the mounting bracket (also highlighted), but I wouldn't think that would cause the malfunction.
It's tough to see in the pic, so I took a video. The popper cap has a LOT of play, and that dowel rod appears to crash into the fork switch. I think we may have found the culprit.
VUK1 (resized).png
Dowel pin was definitely sticking out too far, but there was also a slight bind in the alignment of the armature and coil. It was catching on the down stroke and the spring isn't strong enough to overcome it. That was the real issue.
Also noticed one of the leads to the coil was in rough shape. Going to reflow that while I'm in here. Anyway, thanks Manny65 for the assist!
Quoted from Manny65:It should be easy to remove the entire mech - probably 4 screws (get yourself some nut drivers if you don’t already have them). The bottom end of the sleeve is broken, so expect that replacing the sleeve and centre the dowel pin, as well as giving the mech a clean will resolve the issue. Check the armature is not damaged
Yep, did all of that and mounted it back in. Plays fine for now (got my new personal best of 114mil ), and it looks like the replacement sleeve is available on Marco.
Thanks again!
Quoted from Averell:Good choice, Pin2DMD has a working Hunter Killer animation... Color-DMD is too stupid and arrogant to fix their remaining bug regarding that issue!
Is anyone selling a Pin2DMD kit for T2?
I'd rather buying everything together than piece by piece
Can anyone sell me an eprom with L8.3 on it?
(Or point me to someone who will)
I tried coinopcauldron, but since 8.3 wasn't an official Willams release they won't sell me one.
They will sell me the U14 and U6 I'll need for the profanity sound though. In case anyone is interested in that.
Quoted from dtrimberger:I did a search and also looked for a different forum post but didn't find a list. Any must have mods people like for T2? Picking one up this weekend.
I really like the Hunter Killer ships that have LEDs
Quoted from loneranger:I can burn one for you if you still need one.
That would be awesome, I'll shoot you a PM.
My T2 is doing a fun trick now.
The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).
Anyone else run into something like that? I've only had time to check a few things:
- Fuses all look good. I even pulled one and powered on the machine, it registered the correct missing fuse during the auto check
- All LEDs on each board are either on/off/flashing as normal with the exception of LED 7 on the Power Driver Board. That one should be 'on', but it isn't
- Oh and the Slam Tilt registers as it should (I was just checking everything on the coin door)
Quoted from loneranger:I've seen this before and it was a broken ground wire on one of the coin switches.
I'd buy that. Next thing I planned to do was get my meter out and see if the controls/coin units were getting power.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu
I'm on daddy duty for a couple hours, but I'll take one as soon as I can
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu
What are we looking for?
20221029_204521 (resized).jpg20221029_204604 (resized).jpgI should also point out that the orange wire appears to have been snipped intentionally. It is for the left coin switch, (the right and center still work)
Not sure what the benefit of killing a coin door like that is. Wouldn't it be easier just to tape over the slot if it was acting up? Lol
I've got cool white in mine and like it. Feels more future-robot-ish to me than the warm white.
It's all subjective though. Not cost effective, but it may be worth just buying some of each to try out for yourself and pick your preference
Quoted from dtrimberger:I actually searched for Foster's and a drill bit... now my holes are way crooked... thanks everyone
Foster's. Australian for crooked playfield holes.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider br81zad.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only?tu=br81zad and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.