Quoted from KJS:

I'm about to embark on my 4th t2 resto.
I've done 2 beautiful chrome editions but I think it's time for a change as they are a bit common now...
mmmm let's see !

Quoted from atg1469:

Been working hard on this transformation and figured I’d share the fruits of my labor with perhaps the one group of people that may actually give a shit!
Bought this game beat up and abused but really happy with how she’s turned out so far. I found a lot of great inspiration on this thread and in particular from the glorious build that Dna127 so graciously documented on Pinball life! I wish I had his skill set but I made do with what I had, and paid (handsomely I might add, god damn are chrome parts expensive!!) for the parts I couldn’t build myself.
Hope you folks dig it! Last two items I’m waiting on are the custom cannon and shooter lane covers. Likely need to add a few spotlights up front too in order to brighten up the middle playfield, but that should do it!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from AD72:

Installed a TiltAudio! board. What a difference! I tried out a few different sound files. Anyone else with one with a setup to share?
[quoted image]

Quoted from bicyclenut:

Making progress. Thank you to everyone sharing this skull mod... I think its a must mod for this game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

If anyone has a repro playfield for sale, let me know!
Im installing all LED's as my initial tests show that its a HUGE improvement.
I mean like night and day...
2smd frosted sunlight all around! Looks incredible!
With colorDMD, pinsound and a shaker motor, and a CHROME upgrade, this game would be a permanent KEEPER!
I love this game!
@pinballgoddes posted 120,000,000 on her fifth game. She had never seen this title before.
Hopefully Buthamburg will resume production on T2 playfields !

Quoted from Averell:

Install PinSound, Color-DMD, Ultimate Hunter Ship and L8.3 - then you get a blast.

Quoted from mzhulk:

Whats the ultimate hunter ship? Pinbits used to sell one that had different lighting effects but they no longer exist

Quoted from Averell:

If you like, I can send you the latest remix for T2, incl. the original Soundtrack to switch to.
In combination with Game Rom L8.3 you have the choice to use Profanity mode.
And if you use Color-DMD, install the latest update for Chroma to have the selections with working colors while using Profanity.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wow Congrats!
The game looks real nice, even the gun handle looks great!
Nice score!
Its really great to buy a game that actually works LOL !
My game is ok, but needs a playfield I think.
But I didnt pay much for it...

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Side rails arent even dented!!!
That looks like it will clean up really well, VM&P naptha on paper towels to clean the old wax off. Novus 2 on a microfiber rag to rub out the ball trails and any black crap.
Re-clean off the novus with naptha, then wax with blitz or p21s carnauba, buff with a yellow detailing cloth to a high gloss.
If you can get VM&P naptha you can use Colemans fuel by the gallon. Its 99% naptha.
Black oil based Sharpie paint marker for any cabinet and door touch ups, inside and out.
Wipe the marker gently before it dries with a paper towel to de-gloss it.
Rustoleum satin black sprayed wet on a paper towel to rub in and touch up any wood work, inside and out, works wonders.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put in 100% sunlight frosted 2smd from comet.
It looks perfect in all cases.
I only put a color one "here and there" to accentuate a color, like in the terminator eyes i the playfield maybe.
He looks pretty good wit the sunlight bulbs though.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im seriously thinking of getting the CPR glass mirrored backglass.
It would be amazing! But it might make the rest of my game look worn and trashy....
Your game however looks GREAT!

Quoted from Ant-H:

Did you get the XL Pin2DMD from Stumblor? I recently got one for my TAF, but never seen a T2 with an XL screen. How’s it look?

Quoted from Xtraball:

Get these signs, they’re always lit white but when the ball goes thru the left or right wireform the opposite sign turns red. Get the skull eyes that look towards the ball too from Pinsider Gnassel. Just email him, he’ll help you out. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from loren3233:

Lowers are 906 Flashers and I believe the four uppers are 555's wedge base socket.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Most of the inserts are on lamp boards with #555 wedge sockets in rows. I found ir easier to just remove the lamp boards other than fight with the twist sockets.
There are 4 #906 in your lower circle.
there are several extra playfield controlled lamps on bayonet sockets, so its a mix, but mostly #555 wedge.
All of the GI is bayonet.
Im mostly done with my game,
I have used about 100 wedge and about 75 bayonet. There are 40 or more wedge in the very crispy backbox sockets.
The 2smd sunlight frosted look really good everywhere.
I have also used about 20 5 led flasher towers with the wege base, they are polarized.
The 2 lamps under the center 3 standups were too bright, i switched them for 1smd lamps for now.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Weird. Switch 77 works perfectly I switch edge test when I push it by hand. And now the error is cleared. Let see in gameplay. Something is not activating switch 77 I assume.
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

The switch is probably going bad and not triggering sometimes.
You get the error notice if the switch hasnt been triggered in a couple games.
Its no too bad to replace it "in-game".
You might also turn it a little to get a little fimer action out of it.
These days, I just replace 20 or 30 year old switches as soon as they start acting up.
That wooden edge under the display looks a little dry and planky.
Wipe a folded paper towel the edge sprayed with satin black Rustoleum across it.
It will look great and preserve it a bit.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I added the "Bright Eyes" to my skull.
https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html
It looks from the picture that your skull has regular bulbs in it.
I REALLY like the new look it gave him, lol!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Side rails arent even dented!!!
That looks like it will clean up really well, VM&P naptha on paper towels to clean the old wax off. Novus 2 on a microfiber rag to rub out the ball trails and any black crap.
Re-clean off the novus with naptha, then wax with blitz or p21s carnauba, buff with a yellow detailing cloth to a high gloss.
If you can get VM&P naptha you can use Colemans fuel by the gallon. Its 99% naptha.
Black oil based Sharpie paint marker for any cabinet and door touch ups, inside and out.
Wipe the marker gently before it dries with a paper towel to de-gloss it.
Rustoleum satin black sprayed wet on a paper towel to rub in and touch up any wood work, inside and out, works wonders.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, thats 99.99% naptha.
Smear some on a piece of glass.
It should evaporate with no residue at all.
Check it to be sure, then you are good to go.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

The naptha will completely remove all the old wax that looks grimy or had dirt imbedded in it.
Novus 2 does a decent job of buffing off ball trails and stubborn dirt in the clear coat. Clean with naptha after scrubbing.
I use my worn out athletic socks for rubbing out ball trails. The cotton does a better job than the microfiber.
After its all clean, you can buff the clear coat a bit with a drill buffer and a mirror glaze or detailing compound, clean it up with naptha, then apply a coat of 100% carnauba wax.
NOTE: Wax is not spackle or body filler, apply it very sparingly. Think what fingerprints on glass looks like.
You can NOT "build" coats of wax. Softened wax in the can has a solvent to keep it moist. This solvent removes the old wax as you apply the new. You will see it on the applicator, wash the applicator with warm water and dish soap when done. Very slightly dampened applicators do a better job than dry ones.
Then wipe off the dry wax with a microfiber cloth and buff to a high gloss with yellow flannel detailing cloths.
If the clear is hazed, just like on a car, you would have to use a mild rubbing compound (or a scratch/haze remover), then the mirror glaze, then the wax.
The 3" foam detailing pads (with the pad holder) from harbor freight do a pretty good job in a drill motor.
Tooth brushes to remove wax from star posts, wooden spoon handles with a microfiber rag rubber banded onto them and chop-sticks are helpful tools.
Blitz 100 grand and P21S (silver can) are good waxes. P21S leaves less white dust.
Clean out the cabinet with a shop vac to remove black dust and old white wax dust.
You can even vacuum off the bottom of the playfield mechs and wiring. Black dust goes everywhere.
The game will stay cleaner longer.
For between waxing wipe downs I use Mist n Shine detailing cleaner on a soft rag and buff dry. It wont remove the wax but is a gentle cleaner that has a little wax in it. Its WAY better than the useless Novus 1.
I use Sparkle glass cleaner A LOT on plastics, glass and general wipe downs (inside and out). Its ammonia free and safe for anti-glare glass.
Sometimes I spray a little, other times I spray it on a paper towel. You dont want to get wood or playfields too wet at all. Damp is ok.
Naptha on a q-tip (or paper towel corner) removes black from rubber and target faces. Works on white rubber too.

Quoted from Ant-H:

I usually put colourDMDs in my games but on this occasion I thought I’d try out the XL screen with Stumblors speaker lights as well and I’m really glad I did.
I’m currently restoring 2 TAF, one has a standard colourDMD and my one has the XL screen and with them side by side, you can see that the colour files for the XL are lot better with a bigger colour pallet.
I think the colour files for pin2dmds can be hit or miss. I think it really depends on how much work has been down on them. The author of the TAF files clearly has done alot of work as it looks brilliant.
The colourDMD has to much blue imo.
I’ll send you a pm about the lamp board as I modded the one on mine.

Quoted from Buthamburg:

Hello to all.
Our new facility is, so far, up and we can work. The main things have been finalized. Production is speed up now. There are still alot of work to do, building walls and rooms but we are set up and working.
Terminator 2 Playfields.
Silk screened printing.
We have now started to print the Terminator 2 Judgement Day playfields. The white and the 3 gray shades are printed. Alltogether it is 11 colors, 7 more to go. Tomorrow we will continue.
We wish all a nice weekend
Regards from Hamburg
Ron, Leon and Peter
www.buthamburg.de
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

No board missing, you are ok.
The upper left mostly has a fliptronics board there in later games.
T2 is Pre-fliptronics by a couple years.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Beautiful!
You might have to use the system 11 trim to get it installed.
I even made a thread about my adventures 2 years ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim#post-6082721
Lift channel here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=System%2011%20lift%20channel

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I bought all if the available trims.
System 11 trim is perfect.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, It will perfectly fit.
Get the friction tape for the lift channel.
You can put it on the sides and top if you want, but its TOTALLY not necessary.
However the lift channel could fit more snugly. It feels loose (tough its not) without the tape to help it
Put a 2" piece in the center and a 2" piece on each end of the glass about 1/4" in from the edge.
You will have to tap the lift channel on with a rubber or wooden mallet if you use the tape.
Go Slow, tap it on with the other end of the glass solidly on carpet, NOT CONCRETE OR TILE FLOOR!
Put it on so that you cant see it, at least from the front.
If you dont want to pound on your glass, dont use the tape. Its just more solid with the tape.
Trim the tape before you put it on if you want.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nicely done! That looks AMAZING!
The main reason for the system 11 trim is to cover the un-painted edges that can be visible.
Read thru my thread I posted above, there are pictures.
Yours looks great!

Quoted from Averell:

The machine gets better and better - nice work.
You should think about Game Rom L8.3.

Quoted from Averell:

Maybe end of Mai or early in June.
FYI - PPS removed u14 Profanity Rom from T2 IPDB.

Quoted from Averell:

It is included now and some more!
About This File V2.3
Extended with the Profanity Call Out "Fuck You Asshole". Playable with Game ROM L8.3 (available on IPDB).
This Sound Pack includes the original Sound Pack and the remastered Sound Pack that is based on the Sound Pack from EndProdukt, but includes a funny boot.wav.
Of course both Sound Packs run with all other Game ROMs, but the Profanity Call Out "Fuck You Asshole" is only supported with Game ROM L8.3 or higher.
You can switch between the original Sound Pack and the remastered version.
A nice feature is the shaker support, which also works in the original sound pack as in the remastered version.
• Added new Mystery Background Sound "Mystery Background Averell 1", "Sarah On The Run", "Our Gang Goes To Cyberdyne"
• Added new Main Themes "Terminator Main Theme", "Bad To The Bone (long and short)", "Guitars-Cadillacs", "You Could Be Mine (long and short)"
• Added new Call Out "Fick Dich Selber Du Arschloch", "Hey man, Guck Mal Im Telefonbuch Unter Arschloch Nach, Da Findest Du Sicher Deine Nummer"
• Added new SFX for Start Button without Credits "I Need Your Clothes, Your Boots And Your Motorcycle", "Hey man, Guck Mal Im Telefonbuch Unter Arschloch Nach, Da Findest Du Sicher Deine Nummer"

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

This all sounds so cool!!
Really looking forward to it!
Question: when the drop target is in the down position should switch 77 be closed?
Thanks!
Richard

Quoted from vec-tor:

Hello T2 members. I just posted a repair I had to do on
the shooter lane ball launch kicker. The main problem was
the playfield screw holes where severely stripped out.
I hope it can help other T2 members that have the same problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-ball-launch-repair
Enjoy.

Quoted from Averell:

U14 Profanity is recommended if no PinSound or TiltAudio is installed.
But PPS removed U14 Profanity from IPDB.
If we release L8.4 we will include all needed files for download from IPDB.

Quoted from Averell:

Yes Sir
And of course, you need the matching PinSound Mix with Profanity included.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just keep coming back to play my T2, its addicting!
Now, I need Chrome flipper bats!
Everyone seems out of them.

Quoted from Averell:

Yesterday we start testing the release candidate of L8.4.
We play, test and check on three different machines... this will tak a while to ensure, no more bugs remain in the game rom.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I keep getting a ball hung:
[quoted image]
Is my autofire kicker installed correctly?
Is it missing a part?
Is the plunger supposed to be sticking out more, like its worn out?
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Upon observation, the ball hangs there mostly, when it goes down the outline at an angle then rolls up to the left.
Then comes to rest in that slot.
Thinking about the experience of having this happen by removing the apron:
Warping the lower edge slightly so that the ball might have just enough momentum to fall back down?
Or positioning the apron so that the slot is more at an angle?
Ill look to see if I can come up with a solution.
Thanks !
Lots to look at.

Quoted from AD72:

Any experience with that speaker in particular? I am looking for one for mine. Looks like that is $40 on amazon.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Earlier, I added a lamp to the drop target.
I really like it!
While I had the VUK (ball popper assembly) out, I thought it would be fun to add a flashing red lamp to the drop target as well.
There are holes pre-drilled in the playfield to add the lamps.
I put in a 4smd red lamp, hoping it would be bright enough:
[quoted image]
So, now I have 2 lamps behind my drop target. One 2smd frosted sunlight (chaind off of a near by GI lamp), one 4smd red (tapped off of the load gun PCB lamp).
The lamp power is tapped into the GUN lamp on the pc-board:
[quoted image]
It works surprisingly well and adds a flicker to the drop target area.
I guess it could be brighter, but I only spent 15 mins on it as I wanted to test my new VUK armature.

Any comments are welcome and appreciated!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

New firing pin, new spring, new tube stop.
Its slightly longer (its new) the spring fits inside the tube stop, just like the service bulletin shows etc.
I also replaced the bushing, just in case.
Evidently the completely wrong spring was put in at some point. All fixed now!
I put a small amount of silicone grease on the rear plunger to help with binding up, probably unnecessary as the new bushing keeps it perfectly centered.
New is on the left, Old is on the right.
[quoted image]
The trigger action is like night and day!
It works just perfectly.
If your gun trigger feels spongey or misfires, pull it apart and see whats going on.
It might be all wrong like mine was.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its pretty firm, not stiff, but not too bad.
I adjusted the switch so that it "triggers" around the lower 1/3 of the trigger stroke.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mine looks like yours. I bought it from little shop of games, but the starship fantasy one is a lot better and looks shinier.
You have to draw in all the lines with an ultra-sharp sharpie marker on all of them.
This worked exceptionally well for me.
I wiped off mistakes with hand sanitizer on a paper towel. Naptha would of course also work.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

This one is good:
https://starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Terminator-2-Hunter-Killer-Ship

Quoted from dinot:

I went with this ship....pricey but it looks sooo nice.
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/terminator-2/products/terminator-2-hunter-ship

Quoted from DumbAss:

Reflowing solder on a board is not advised. A lot of people advise it. I don't. It's a form of shotgun "repair". It often makes no difference and makes future board work more difficult due to the additional solder that is often added that needs to be melted and removed.
The "top insert" is the top string of the GI in the backbox. The backbox board is called the insert. The "bottom insert" is the bottom string. The "cpu string" is the row of CPU lamps in the center of the playfield. Those lamps are GI. They are NOT part of the (controlled) lamp matrix.
These kinds of GI errors are a little too common. It is often from poor attempts to repair the GI headers and connectors at J120/J121. The connectors get burned badly and attempts to repair it may or may not be electrically correct.
Having said all that, I have no proof for any of it. It's pure supposition based on experience.
Post images of the power board at the lower left corner. Specifically: J120, J121 and the connectors. Include J115 if it looks suspicious. People often confuse the wiring and it appears to work when all the GI is on but when the software tries to control individual strings, the incorrect wiring causes problems.

Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Finally replaced my ColorDMD with a Pin2DMD, definitely worth the swap.
[quoted image]

Quoted from tripplett:

Just so you’re aware J120 and J121 are wired together - so you can plug the cable into either.
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Williams%20WPC%20Schematic%20manual.pdf
[quoted image]

Quoted from DumbAss:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/204#post-7586250
I guess I'll just stop reading this club thread and trying to post help seeing as it is plainly ignored.

Quoted from DumbAss:

So what changed to cause it to work? You didn't specify what happened. I can't see what's in front of you.

This is likely to be the GRN/WHT-GRN string. Check the lamp board. It should have a GRN and WHT-GRN wire connected to it. I don't have a machine in front of me so you will need to verify that.
Once you've identified the string then check the VAC across the pins for the GRN and WHT-GRN wire. You can check this at J120 if there is no connector. Otherwise, you can pull a connector off and check the VAC across the pins. The VAC is nominally 5.9VAC or 6.3VAC. It just needs to be in that range. Do this when NOT in the GI test as that will cause the GI to dim depending on which test and this will affect the VAC.
If there is no VAC then you will need to check the VAC for the pins that deliver the voltage from the transformer secondary. That is J115. Yes. The header with the hot glue.

Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Here’s a comparison.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

AMAZING LOOKING!
I just put Invisiglass on my CCrLE.
Once you have it on a game, theres no going back
You can easily cover sidewall scuffs with Rustoleum satin black sprayed on a paper towel and rubbed on.
Oil based black Sharpie markers work really well too.
Degloss them with a paper towel just before they dry and lightly rub over them to "feather" in the paint.
Between the Rustoleum and the paint marker, you can do a VERY acceptible touch up.
I have even filled blown out Head corners with bondo, sanded it flat and touched them up with this method without even using primer..
On a primarily black cabinet, its easy to touch up.
I have even lightly sprayed Rustoleum satin black on a sidewall with the playfield still in the game.
I just put a beach towel down to completely cover the playfield.
Any over-spray on the stainless is easily wiped off with lacquer thinner or naptha.
TONS of easy touch ups you can do to improve the look of a game.

Quoted from Averell:

Hello,
I can tell that Game Rom L8-4 is finished.
We try to upload to IPDB as soon as possible.
I still have to rearrange the current manual and enhance section "A2 Adjustments".
We like to thank all beta-testers and all the people that have been involved for the last months.
Rest assured, this is the best Game Rom ever and makes T2 even better and more interesting to play.
Enjoy and have fun

Quoted from pinballinreno:

For the absolute best:
Im going to order everything from Buthamburg.
Playfield, plastics, and decals.
Thay have it all and of extremely high quality.
Plus their prices are low for exceptional work.
https://www.buthamburg.de/en/decals/terminator-2-cabinet-decal-set
Im on the wait list for the upcoming playfield release, its gonna be EPIC !
Ill buy everything at the same time.

Quoted from Averell:

Not from me... you need the file and a friend who can burn the rom.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have the ROM burner, a box of ROMs and an eraser etc.
Dave has the ROM, his prices are low, He's a great guy, Its worth a couple bucks to get it done now instead of a couple months...etc.
I DO love the new ROM.

Quoted from rx3:

Nice. I didn't even know these existed. How long is the wait list?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

did you try it in J-116 ?
The colors match, it would have been my 1st choice.

Quoted from Ant-H:

I’d definitely recommend an external power supply for these screens. I had a similar issue with the screen on my TAF. As soon as I installed an external power supply I had no further issues.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Awesome work!
Now just need for Richard-NBA-SF2 to get bored of t2 so I can buy it.
Lol

Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Started working on another Pinsound music pack for T2 recently and thought I would share how it’s going.
Mainly focusing on the main play theme… There are some really good ones out there (remastered OG and OST) but… if you aren’t familiar with my packs I’ve done for other games (BSD, TS, JM) I go for an Epic alternative. I strive for the most punchy, hard hitting and intense music and sounds possible to give the theme a more intimidating feel.
Still lots to do here… SFX, and tweak audio levels and better edit / tweak the music I’m implementing.
Thanks for checking it out!

Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Got a little crafty with my spotlights…
I wired and hot glued in Comet’s 6 SMD pads into their reflector spotlights and mounted them.
This is only 2 installed and it really really lights up the game…
I’ll post more when I’m completely finished, but here’s where it is now:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pbot:

Old current glass is pretty scratched, and I'd love to get Invisiglass for my Terminator 2.
Since I'm not sure about it: Does JJP's Standard Playfield Invisiglass (http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Accessories/Standard-Playfield-Invisiglass.html) fit for T2?

Quoted from DystopicPinball:

Updated mods for your favourite pinball, check the updated gallery:
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/my-pinball-gallery/terminator-2
if need info, just send me a mail or a whatsapp message.
thanks

Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Cheap easy way to freshen up your shooter handle. Some before and after. Painted the screws as well. Shame someone cranked it down at one point and rippled the art above the handle. This paint really goes on nice and dries fast.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from rx3:

LOL! Ok thanks for the advice.

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I've never seen colored wireforms on T2 - chrome is best IMO!

Quoted from tripplett:

Yep, T2 and chrome just go together.

Quoted from Dinsdale:

I took the plunge because Buthamburg didn't have them in stock and I can confirm the owns PP sent me were from Buthamburg. I have those decals and plastics and nothing comes close. Quality is incredible.
I've just spent the past week reading this thread - 10 years worth of posts.
I'm lucky enough that Dna127 is restoring my T2. It's nearly done and is going to look incredible. I've got PinSound, Ultimate Hunter Killer, Nemesis Skull, new LEDs etc.
I will say how impressed I am with the effort Averell and his team have gone into with the L8.3 ROM and now the L8.4 ROM which I am now planning to find someone to burn for me.