New to the club now that I have a pair of T2s I bought on Sunday. First one is done now, with the exception of needing a hunter killer ship and will do some mod for the 3 standups in front of the bumpers - likely the melty cop guy.

Full tear down shop job with full LEDs except the backbox because I don't like the glare on the glass they cause. Installed mirror blades (a must), red LED lit flipper buttons, blue/white LED strip along under the backbox for excellent upper playfield lighting. Can choose from white, blue or white & blue for the upper playfield and I think the combo looks best. Also replaced the lame skull with that Loot Crate skull and LED'd the eyes. An External sub really adds the Ooomph to the music and sounds.

Will be up for sale once I have the ship to install. Going to tear down the other one next once I order the LEDs and rubber I need.

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A few pics with the lights off.

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After replacing the target foam with new foam, I had some skill shots and cannon shots not registering. Had to adjust the leaf switches to compensate for the new foam because the old foam was chewed up and thinner. Can you register hits with your finger? If so, then adjust the leaf switches so the ball hits will register.

The target lights will keep going if a hit isn't registed and will stop once any switch is hit.

Shopped and modded the first T2 I have and should be sold tomorrow. Now onto the next one that requires the DMD driver HV to be repaired, but in the mean time, need to figure out this issue.

When I power the game on, no activity other than I hear it power on and the normal slight hum. Went through all the troubleshooting steps here :

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

These are my findings:
Power board:
LED 7 = off
TP1 (12vu) = no reading
BR5 - one leg reads at over 900, all other legs in the 490 range and solid.

CPU Board:
LEDs D19 on, D20 off, D21 on (normal operation is off, flashing, on)
Can I conclude that BR5 is the culprit? If not, what else can I test that I may have missed?

A friend and fellow Pinsider told me to check the steps below and it does still seem to point to BR5 as the culprit.

"First, make sure that another board isn't keeping blanking on the CPU high (D19 on the CPU board); unplug ALL ribbon cables, and power the game on. If you get the same behavior, then good. If you DON'T, then something else is up, stop here until you get the +12uv up and running.
Before replacing BR5, double-check you're getting input voltages. (Likely, Br5 IS bad, but.. it's good to be safe!). Check AC voltage between J112-1 and J112-5. If you got a goot reading there (between 12 - 18 volts), then yup, BR5 needs to be replaced. Also, check any voltage difference (AC *or* DC) between TP5 and the metal backplane of the backbox. You should get '0' (or really, really close to it) for both AC and DC. This is just makin' sure that there's no ground issue.
Once you get +12uv back up, if that does not fix the CPU, we'll have to keep working on that."

First T2 has been sold and problems worked out on the 2nd one I referenced above. Just need to repair the HV section of the DMD driver board, shop it, mod it and play it for a bit.

I've only had T2 for a short while and having had any airballs that would damage the ship. That said, both of my T2s were missing the ship, so the obviously must've gotten beat up. Do any of you actually get airballs that will launch that high and hit the ship? I'm going to replace the ship on the T2 I have left, but certainly not going to pay $$ for a plastic protector that doesn't seem to be needed if the pin is shopped and playing properly.

The word "protector" is in the product description.

Air balls is what I was curious about. What shots give you airballs? Asking because I had maybe 25 games on the T2 before I sold it and am tearing this one down now and probably will get the same # of games before it's gone. Haven't had an airball yet. Did you replace the black post rubbers with colored sleeves? I know those colored sleeves always give me air balls in games I've used them in.

Starting to mod this skull and just dremeled the rear access for installing LEDs. What a difference a badass skull makes!

https://goo.gl/photos/xeHv85jeWBLJy7xFA

I don't know what a t800 is....so maybe?

Since I replaced the original skulls with the modded skulls, I have two original skulls along with the clear plastic and curved metal ball guides. Going to place them on eBay, but figured I'd ask if anyone here wanted to buy them first.

Was thinking $50 shipped each.

Would also trade one for a hunter ship too.

Need to burn the L-8 ROM. Anyone know what blank chip I need to order?

- just placed order with Borygard, but not sure of what chip it is since he knew and added it to my order.

Is that what causes that annoying explosion sound once in a while even though attract sounds are turned off?

Very annoying, but I'm selling this once it's finished, so not my problem much longer. But thanks for mentioning it in case other new owners like myself are like WTF?

Both skulls have been sold!

I bought a T-1000 figure at a local comic shop for $20. Just popped his legs off and used the upper body from the waist up and looks great for a low price. Has the metal bullet holes in his chest and face and simple to mount on the metal place above the targets.

This is the one. The legs just pop right off from the waist - no cutting or modding needed.

http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=63157546&camp=PLAPPCG-_-PID21193091:TRUS&cagpspn=plat_21193091&eESource=CAPLA_DF:63157546:TRUS

Yup! Subwoofer is a MUST on this game. Night and day difference.

I recently picked up my 3rd T2 in the past 4 months, but it's still sitting in my van. Hopefully the ground dries out enough for me to unload it this weekend so I can shop it, mod it and then pass it along in a trade. Such a fun game to mod and an easy game to shop.

Pics of the last one I did:

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Thanks, I used this skull on both the T2s and have one waiting for the next T2. Makes a huge difference in appearance because the stock skull is so cheap looking.

I found the best result for the eyes was to drill out the black center of the eyes and hot glue a small red LED strip inside. Lights up the eyes great and the skull still has red color in the eyes that looks nice when the LEDs are off.

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You can see in a pic above that I used an old credit card as a mounting plate. I just trimmed the card so it was the same size as the metal base the original skull sits above, then drilled a hole in the card and skull base and bolted them together. Then 3M tape to secure it to the metal base and done.

Then on Ebay sell the original skull and metal ballguide/plastic combo that sits behind it. Free mod since the new skull is only $7 shipped and the old one will sell for around $25.

The T2 I recently picked up some some slight wear on the cabinet around the flippers buttons. What have you used to hide the wear? I use the black metal Stern button covers on my Sega and DE games when needed. But T2 has the stainless metal rails, so not sure what would look decent.

I need a ship for this T2 and needed one for my previous one and Marco was the only place I found.

I'm adding the Lootcrate skull on my 3rd T2. I just sell the original skull on eBay and buy the Lootcrate for $7 shipped. Pays for itself and looks WAY better.

Anyone ever see a hack like this? I'm assuming it must have worked at some point, but need to totally test everything. Quick testing last night found .67 at 5v, but didn't have time to go further. Getting a new dog tomorrow, so probably not until this weekend can I work on it.

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i re-joined the T2 club again this weekend and I'll be installing my DIY stadium lighting on it. Def needs some good, even lighting. What's that blue glare across the middle of your glass from?

Ah ok, I figured it had to be light from a mod, but couldn't figure out what.

I've been playing the heck out of one of the Shadows I have and I think I might sell something else instead. Still thinking about it.

I received this Terminator Hunter ship from Amazon today for $25. I'm fixing up this T2 and the original Hunter ship was broken and a replacement is more than this toy and is still fragile plastic. This toy is mostly die cast, has way more detail, can withstand airballs and was easy to install using the existing wire mount. I drilled two small holes for the wire mount and screwed the mount to the ship securely and ready to play.

On my prior T2s I used a loot crate terminator skull head to replace the existing head. But on those games the original head was cracked and this game only has the common wear spots on the chin, so don't think I'll replace it.

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The bit is smaller than my 1/8" bit. It's not marked since it's small, but just go smaller than the screws you use.

Swapped my Pinstadium lights from Mustang - where it didn't belong anyway but that's where I've had it until I had a game that could really use it.

T2 is the only game I've had Pinstadium installed in that the UV flasher option actually looks cool and wasn't an eye distraction. I connected to a flasher under the skull and the UV with give a quick flash when a ball is loaded and give some nice flashes during the successful cannon shot light show. Perfect addition and not distracting.

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You can't see reflections on the playfield when playing. If standing off to a side, then yes the light strip reflections can be seen. The only reflections I can see when playing a game depends on what is underneath the light strips. Plastic ramp returns? Yes, you'll see reflections off those. My Baywatch, Shadow, Big Hurt and T2 do not have anything very reflective under the strips along the playfield edges. On Mustang though, there are plastic ramp returns along the playfield sides that will show reflections from the lights.

So for those type of reflections it depends on the game. Make a set of DIY stadium lights and check it out. Easy to make, inexpensive and in my opinion they look fantastic.

I used to add spotlights to games that needed more lighting, but I am much happier with the entire playfield being evenly lit using the stadium lights I make.

Yes, that shot can be made cleanly from the left flipper and I actually made it again earlier tonight. I do have blue post rubbers installed, don't recall who made them, but they aren't Titan. But I've run into that issue on other games when using other types of "rubber" in tight spots. Try waxing the posts and rubber rings in the area first.

My experience has been that GI issues have always been with the connector or pins on the board. I make a new connector and that has resolved my GI issues. Last game like that was recently with a Shadow I have. One side of the GI was out and I could get it to turn temporarily on by fiddling with the connector. I replaced the connector and all was working again.

Anyone have a right sling plastic for sale?