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My flipper rebuild kit with new flippers came today (those that came with mine were shot and mismatched). So this def looks like it’s taking care of the problem.
My board is being worked on so no power but my left flipper was sticking and it’s really slamming back now
Question - started to put the right one back together Got the old stuff off. New swtich and end stop on. Grommet thru playfield all in. Just ready to put it all back together and then the old sleeve won’t come out. Ugh. It’s breaking off at the end. Last thing and I’m Dunn then this. Lol.
Any slick way to get that out? The left one going in was tight as well.
49402C8A-C92B-478E-8F29-3F21036C05C6 (resized).jpegHope I can just get it out. It was working fine on the right so just wanted to do the full rebuild as I just got the machine. The left one was sticking a bit
I’ll try that this evening.
Ive seem that mod and wondered how it all worked and how to install it. (The photos makes it look easy ). I’ll be watching for any help you get Good luck!
Does this cleaning method require you to unplug the game first? Or just leave it powered up to see if the bulbs are getting cleaned?
Finally got mine working 100% and did the slight mods referenced by “spfxted”. Still need to paint the teeth white!
779327B3-6BC5-4B51-B7C8-5BBD57657251 (resized).jpeg28735DB3-9177-42FF-A078-5C4D6A408190 (resized).jpegEF2EBDC5-D292-4FCA-9957-3FD3D348D6FC (resized).jpeg6B9B5518-5022-4540-B795-945A63C74E2B (resized).jpegAm looking at some LED’s to help in that regard (only had 2 so threw them in the bottom area).
Any suggestions on that? Rather than the $160 “kit”?
Welcome to the group! I’m sure someone on here will help soon. I’m a noobie and would help if I could. But give them time. There are some great peeps on here that really know their stuff. Good luck on the new game !!!
I’ll throw this out there. Maybe the sound rom chip needs replaced ? Fairly cheap overall but I’d wait for someone with knowledge. It may be a simple connection.
Weird - my plastic tip came off of the plunger to kick the Ball out of the skull. It shot out with the Ball once. Lol. I read here what it was and how to replace it. But it’s still working. So didn’t replace it. Yet.
I do notice that the drop target will stock from time to time and I have to open it up and manually drop it. Then it works again another dozen or so games. May just need some cleaning?
I also can drop 2-3 balls in while in multi ball mode. If there are 3 I’m sol and it’s stuck. If I get 2 in there it will shoot out the first one. Then I also get a 2nd shot.
Is this how it’s supposed to work ?
Received my LED kit today so this weekend is tear apart clean and put back together. Will do the full skull VUK clean out and put that cup piece bAck on while I’m in there. Just in case that is my locking up problem.
Quoted from bruinfan:My cannon is shooting the ball too high and its hitting the metal cover above the targets instead of the targets themselves.
This changed for me when I replaced the targets. At around the same time, I also cleaned the cannon and replaced bulbs. I'm sure I did something, but I'm not sure what.
I'm not seeing a way to adjust the strength or angle of the cannon. Has anyone adjusted the cannon to shoot lower/softer? Is it more likely an adjustment to the targets / cover?
Any ideas appreciated.
After installing the new lighted hunter killer and the laser in the cannon mine is doing the extract thing. Hitting the bar not the targets.
At first thought it was more on the cannon side but I really didn’t make any adjustments there
Could it be I have the bar tightened to much or at lower level? (say attachment strip for ship under the bar instead of on top of it will raise the bar and force the ball down into the targets?)
Any suggestions or tips ?
(And no the laser target isn’t worth it as I can’t align it even close. But my granddaughters think it’s cool looking so leaving in there for them. Lol. But my 9 year old knows to score with the cannon so we need to fix this so she can get back to high scores again. Ha!)
Quoted from Nikrox2:After installing the new lighted hunter killer and the laser in the cannon mine is doing the extract thing. Hitting the bar not the targets.
At first thought it was more on the cannon side but I really didn’t make any adjustments there
Could it be I have the bar tightened to much or at lower level? (say attachment strip for ship under the bar instead of on top of it will raise the bar and force the ball down into the targets?)
Any suggestions or tips ?
(And no the laser target isn’t worth it as I can’t align it even close. But my granddaughters think it’s cool looking so leaving in there for them. Lol. But my 9 year old knows to score with the cannon so we need to fix this so she can get back to high scores again. Ha!)
Aha! Added in a small rubber ring to raise the bar up on both ends. Cannon is now hitting targets correctly now
F823D49F-2F31-40A2-A6F3-EA58C97C580C (resized).jpegFuse 501 blows on me as soon as I power up. Presuming one of the large cap’s shorted?
(On the audio board)
Other ideas?
And what exactly goes thru this? I can’t find schematics and I have all sounds, effects, etc.
I don’t know what I’m missing with that blown? Game seems to play fine.
Here’s another puzzler - I recently purchased the lighted speaker kits for my T2 and another game. First one went in great no issues
I put next kit in my T2 -connecting to J116,J117 or J118. No lights. I send it back
Receive the next kit - same thing. No lights. The two machines are close enough so I ran the cable over to the first game and the lights work. (Prob the first kit they sent did too. Ugh ).
Plug it back into either of the above jacks - no lights. On J118 - the cables orig ran to this jack, when plugged back in - game reboots , so it does get power to and thru that jack and cable assembly
Lights work- check (from other game)
J connector work - check
Lights into those J connectors - nuttin
Any ideas on this one ?
Does this have anything to do with My fuse question above?
I think that’s one of the adjustments you can make. 2 or 3 digits. Need to verify that in the manual tho.
Not sure now. I just scoured the manual and I can not see where that is an adjustment - 2 or 3 digit initials. So that’s prob wrong answer
Maybe it’s a default with the clock style? Guessing entirely there.
I could have sworn that was an option you can adjust tho. May have been another game.
Quoted from Nikrox2:Here’s another puzzler - I recently purchased the lighted speaker kits for my T2 and another game. First one went in great no issues
I put next kit in my T2 -connecting to J116,J117 or J118. No lights. I send it back
Receive the next kit - same thing. No lights. The two machines are close enough so I ran the cable over to the first game and the lights work. (Prob the first kit they sent did too. Ugh ).
Plug it back into either of the above jacks - no lights. On J118 - the cables orig ran to this jack, when plugged back in - game reboots , so it does get power to and thru that jack and cable assembly
Lights work- check (from other game)
J connector work - check
Lights into those J connectors - nuttin
Any ideas on this one ?
Does this have anything to do with My fuse question above?
Turns out this one was fuse 116. Although it was getting the 5v it was not getting the 12v. Fuse “looked” good. With the schematics (much appreciated) I could trace back to TP1. And fuse 116. Sure enough bad. Replaced and light kit works fine
Now on to my Fuse 501 issue.
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