(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • 736 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by jrcmlc
  • Topic is favorited by 274 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Luckdragon100.
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#7444 4 years ago

Joined the club today! Surreal feeling pumped a million quarters into this baby as a teen.

Anybody have any leads on custom color Instruction Cards? Thanks. G

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#7446 4 years ago

First "mod" on my new T2 today. Cool instruction cards I found here:
http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Terminator-2-V1

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks who replied etc. G

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#7449 4 years ago

Hi all. Still a newb here but I got a "Check Switch 62 - Left Ramp Made Error." The top part of the switch has come off the nub, so it's dangling loose and out of the lane. All the electrics still work, when i tap it by hand. Does anyone have any fixes for making the top metallic piece fit back on properly again? Many thanks and apologies if I got any of the terminology wrong haha.

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#7451 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I assume you mean the actuator arm (the metal strip that the ball makes contact with) has come off the black plastic knob on the switch body, that the actuator arm pivots on. In this case unscrew the switch off the wireform so that it is easy to handle, the actuator arm will have 2 holes that clip onto those knobs on the switch (1 on either side of the switch). If that area of the actuator arm has been stretched you may need to press the metal sides slightly together so that it doesn't pop off the knobs on the switch. If the knob has been completely worn down and won't hold the actuator arm in place then you'll need a new switch. Once you have clipped the arm back into place, you should be able to press the arm and hear the switch click. Then just screw the switch back into place (note that the switch will need to be positioned such that a ball passing by will trigger the switch but still allow the ball to continue on down the wireform).

Thanks so much for all the advice and help with the lingo! I took it apart and was able to click it back into place. Best, G

#7453 4 years ago

Does everyone think this is the best idea to re-chrome the shooter gun? Thanks! G

Screen Shot 2019-09-20 at 6.24.57 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-09-20 at 6.24.57 PM (resized).png
1 week later
#7462 4 years ago

Added chrome molding to my T2 to cover up some rough wood patches and add a little pop. Thanks calico1997 for the idea!

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1 month later
#7510 4 years ago

Hey everyone! I got a used machine about 2 months ago. Been working great, but my center target suddenly stopped working. It's the square one in these photos. I did a few manual tests with my hand and no matter how hard I pushed it, it doesn't register anymore.

Probably over my head and something I'll need a pro to repair, but just putting it out here in case anyone has ideas. In the UNDER picture, it's the one with the silver attachment... I do see one loose yellow cable under there, but not sure if that has anything to do with it. Thanks for any help you can give!

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#7513 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes the loose yellow wire should be connected (quite common issue to occur). Just need to solder the wire back on to the switch terminal (see how the yellow wire daisy chains between the switches, so you just need to solder it back on the centre switch that has the one yellow wire)

Thanks for the tip! Sounds encouraging. Just ordered a soldering kit

1 week later
#7520 4 years ago

Anybody have any favorite art blades they'd like to share pics for on T2?

Full mirror blades seem pretty cool for this machine, but curious what people have tried.

Thanks!

G

#7530 4 years ago

Those do look pretty sick. Definitely leaning towards these!

#7532 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

But does anyone have a picture of them installed?

I ended up ordering the non-mirror ones here: https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/terminator-2-pinball-sideblades/?fbclid=IwAR05OPij14P5DsjoySRDIScMmvY9XUk2X2Hn09zjMISsE6VxAepzuJ2YBvU

There's some shots in the gallery of them installed, but I'll take some pics when I put mine in.

1 month later
#7600 4 years ago

Hi all. I was trying to hook up a PinballBulbs LED light strip at the back of my playfield, and I couldn't get it to work with any of the suggested J116, J117, and J118 ports. Not the end of the world, but when I re-powered my machine, my Color DMD isn't working anymore. So frustrating and I feel like I want to cry haha. I tried all the connections again, tightening, removing, pushing back in etc but nothing seems to work. I hear sound and all the other lights are working, but nothing on the DMD. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be forever grateful. Some pics attached. Many thanks! G

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#7602 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Sounds like you have a blown fuse in the top left of your power driver board.

Thanks for the suggestion. Is there a way I can identify / verify this? Or a number so I'd know which fuse it is? G

I just tried it with a ribbon from my Ghostbusters Color DMD and it didn't work, so the ribbon is eliminated.

#7604 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

[quoted image]

Ok thanks for the info! So would I be focusing on the 601 / 602 ones then, as those link to the Dot Matrix board?

Attached are some pics from the power board. You can see F116 at the top left and F115 and F101-105

If the fuse is busted on 601 / 602 would it look visibly burnt out or should I just get a new one and try it?

Thank you so much. G

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#7608 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

F116 is in the top left of the power driver board. ColorDMD runs off is 12Vunregulated. LED7 will be off if it is blown.
[quoted image]

OK! Led7 is not lighting up, so presumably that means F116 is blown.

2 more newb questions:

1) Is there a trick for getting the fuses out or do I just wedge them out with a screwdriver?

2) Do you know where I could find a replacement fuse for F116 online or how I'd search for it?

Thanks again everyone. Pinsiders have been such a Godsend as I navigate these new stormy seas haha.

#7613 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

It's alive, after spending a few years restoring it from the ground up, it's finally done. Had some wiring issues on playfield swap that were a PIA, but plays great now.[quoted image]

Looks beautiful!

#7618 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yeah, that is important. Power off anytime unplugging connectors or ribbon cables to boards or replacing parts.

Thanks! Great tips, everyone. Got a fuse puller and some fuses coming in the mail and I'll try those out! G

#7628 4 years ago

Picked up a buddy for my T2 pinball Happy New Year, all. G

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#7629 4 years ago

Thanks PinballManiac40 and everyone for all the help with my DMD shutoff. Was some fuses I blew when I improperly plugged in my LED strip. Everything's working now. Pinball Gods bless you all

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1 month later
#7709 4 years ago

Does anyone know what you actually get for SPECIAL in the Database Mode? It hits the knocker and does a huge light show every time, but I still have no idea what's SPECIAL points-wise or otherwise beyond that, haha. Thanks. G

#7711 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Does anyone know what you actually get for SPECIAL in the Database Mode? It hits the knocker and does a huge light show every time, but I still have no idea what's SPECIAL points-wise or otherwise beyond that, haha. Thanks. G

Really helpful, thanks!

#7712 4 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

That depends on your settings. Traditionally it's a replay (which is probably what yours is on, since it hits the knocker). Since mine's at home in a free play environment, a replay is worthless, so I have it set to Points. See manual page 1-11 (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual.pdf) , standard adjustment 15 -- you can set the special for Credit (replay), Ticket, Ball (extra ball), or Points (1M).
Edit: Yes, hearing the knocker definitely has value too, but at home it's all about the high scores!

Really helpful, thanks!

1 week later
#7727 4 years ago

Hi all. I've been playing the crap out of my T2 lately, and I broke the link on my crank assembly for my left flipper.

I'm been looking online and I think the part I need is "Williams Plunger, Link & Crank Assembly - Left, Early WPC" but it seems to be out of stock everywhere I look.

Any suggestions? Thanks a bunch! G
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#7730 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

If you don't want to do a total rebuild or even replace the crank assembly, you can just replace the plunger:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10656
Heck, technically all you need to replace is the link, but then you 'd have to punch out the roll pin, which is a pain in the ass.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8050-1

Really helpful, thanks! And thanks @jetmechinnc.

1 week later
#7737 4 years ago

Hey all. I'm pretty new to repairs etc, but the link on my flipper broke, so I replaced it and the plunger tonight, but I must have screwed something up because the flipper sticks in the up position (left). It still gets power and flips, but it stays up like this. Any thoughts on what I screwed up? Thanks!

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#7739 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The EOS switch (you can see this in your 2nd pic - it's the leaf switch that is to the right of the coil and below the yellow capacitor) is not adjusted correctly. When the flipper is activated the plunger will be pulled into the coil and as the flipper mech rotates there is a small arm that will connect with the leaf switch separating the switch contact. Maybe you've accidentally bent the leaf switch such that it is no longer contacting when the flipper is down - you should be able to compare to the other flipper as a reference. Below is the EOS setting from the manual[quoted image]

Thanks for the tip. I'm pretty sure I bent it when I was trying to get the new parts screwed in. I tried to bend it back, but I guess I did it improperly. I'll play around with it! Thanks. G

2 weeks later
#7774 4 years ago

Curious where / how you guys mount your time travel mod? I love it, and I like how it sits in the corner (after I bent the metal back) but it keeps slipping down eventually, or every time I lift up the playfield. I tried wedging it on the corner plastic with some two-sided tape, and that kind of works, but curious if anyone has any smarter ideas? Thanks! G

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1 month later
#7965 3 years ago

Hey everybody. Is there any way to buy individual plastics or do you need a whole set? My two blue curved pieces that go around the skull at the back are pretty broken, so I'm looking to replace those. You can't see too well in these pics. Looks a little tricky back there but I may go for it haha. Thanks. G

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#7967 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Marco has them in stock
31-1-50013-16 (left side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-16
31-1-50013-19 (right side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-19
However I've found that there is a fair bit of colour variation on different T2 reproduction plastics compared to the originals. That said given you need both these (so they'll match), it may not be as noticeable with you other plastics as they are not directly next to them.

Thanks for the tip, once again! Yeah they're pretty far back and obscured too, so probably not a big deal if the colors aren't 100% the same. Going to try and fix it up though because the skull even shakes a bit when i hit it, because the plastic bases are not solid. Thanks again!

1 week later
#7999 3 years ago

Thinking about getting these chrome flippers from Pinball Life. Anybody have any experience with these or have some they recommend instead? Thanks! G https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly-no-logo-gold-or-chrome.html

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2 months later
#8055 3 years ago

Hey all. I picked up Judge Dread's helicopter mod, but my playfield's a little crowded in the spot by the skull where installation is recommended. Wondering if anyone has found any other cool spots to put theirs? Thanks!

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2 weeks later
#8070 3 years ago

Is there a way to just reset the Grand Champion score while keeping all the other high scores in tact? Thanks. G

2 months later
#8139 3 years ago

Played a late game last night in the garage and things got really crazy! Lots of Super Jackpots, back to back.

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3 months later
#8502 3 years ago

Hey all. I've got a discolored square in my ColorDMD LED. Sometimes it goes away, but it's hanging around a bit.

ColorDMD is only about a year old. Bought New. Moderate home use. I reseated the cables etc, didn't see anything crazy on first glance. Next I'm going to try re-uploading the software via the USB, but just checking if this looks familiar to anyone!

Thanks. G

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#8505 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

That looks to be a bad RAM chip on the DMD controller board. Swap boards between BSD to see the problem move to it and to show the other board works in T2. The part is not in an IC socket unless someone by chance replaced it in the past.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a shot! G

7 months later
#8712 2 years ago

Hey all. Quick question. I changed the batteries on my T2 for the first time since I picked it up a few years ago. For some reason, now whenever I turn on the machine, it says "Factory Settings Restored" every time and "Date and Time Not Set" etc... I set the date and time, save it, turn on free play mode, save it etc, but every time I turn the machine off and on again, it's like it never happened and all the settings are erased. The machine is also plugged in FYI. I'm sure it's just some dumb small thing, but any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

#8716 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Sounds like one of the battery tabs on the battery holder is not making connection to a battery. Post a picture of the MPU board. I suggest NVRAM install, but this requires delicate desoldering/soldering.

Thanks for the responses! I checked the batteries and they're all fully charged Lithiums. The previous owner installed an external battery holder (pictured). I noticed that the black cable connecting the battery holder to the board was not connected and was just dangling, so maybe I pulled it loose when I changed the batteries. Not exactly sure where it connects, but I tried connecting it to the minus (pictured). Still no luck yet though. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much! G

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#8721 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Connect the black wire to the very left negative pole[quoted image]

This fixed it for now. Thank you!

#8722 2 years ago
Quoted from DrBernd:

….and you solder point look awful, you should use some flux

Haha thanks for the tip. I think this must have been done by previous owner. What kind of flux would you recommend? Thanks!

#8723 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

This is intended as good advice and not as insult... But my thought is, if your knowledge and skills with electronics is this limited, you really shouldn't be working on your machines yourself. An expensive disaster is inevitable.

No offense taken. I definitely understand touching anything comes with potential catastrophic risk lol. In this case, I was just trying to change the batteries like a good Boy Scout haha, but I stumbled into trouble. Working great now though.

6 months later
#9067 1 year ago

Hey all. I was having some battery issues with my MPU board, so I replaced it with a new Rottendog one. I installed it and everything was working great at first. I went back in a few minutes later to tighten the screws on the board a bit and now my gun / plunger isn't firing. I checked all the wires etc and nothing seems loose but just curious if anyone here had any first troubleshooting solutions. Not sure if I blew a fuse on it or something. Thanks so much! G

#9090 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Go into test mode - check the shooter lane switch is working and test the plunger solenoid. This will determine which is causing the issue

Thanks Manny! I went into test modes. Shooter lane switch is working but plunger solenoid isn't. So weird since it was working when I had the new board loosely installed, then stopped working when I tightened it up. I tried loosening it a bit but didn't make a difference.

The manual says the plunger plugs in at J127, so I checked that, replugged it etc.

Here's a little video of the new board installed, in case anything leaps out.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k10aik9ucd2d04g/IMG_3048.MOV?dl=0

Thanks so much for the guidance! G

#9097 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

So check you have 50v at the plunger coil. Check the resistance of the plunger coil. If both of these test good then try grounding the driver transistor tab for the plunger solenoid, if that works then test your driver transistors - the Pinwiki WPC webpage will give you details of how to test

Thanks Manny. You've always been a big help to me (and lots of others on here).

I'm still learning, so I got scared of some of those tasks and terms haha, but I sacked up and turned on the machine to get started....

And now the plunger is working again... haha

Will see if it starts acting up again but hopefully not.

Thanks again,

G

14
#9109 1 year ago

Together at last

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6 months later
#9470 1 year ago

Hey all. Just running into an issue where my gun trigger won't fire on startup, so I can't start a game. I went into switch test and the gun shows Open / Closed as as I pull the trigger, so that part's working. Shortly before this, I had an issue where the ball was stuck in the skull tray and not being recognized, so maybe it's a board issue? Any ideas where to start would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

#9475 1 year ago

Thanks for all these great tips. I'll try all these tonight! G

#9479 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. Just running into an issue where my gun trigger won't fire on startup, so I can't start a game. I went into switch test and the gun shows Open / Closed as as I pull the trigger, so that part's working. Shortly before this, I had an issue where the ball was stuck in the skull tray and not being recognized, so maybe it's a board issue? Any ideas where to start would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

Looks like I just had some loose cables in the backbox. I think i must have pulled something loose when I was trying to get the speaker panel back on. I pushed in some slightly loose bits and that fixed it haha.

Since I'm going through the machine and polishing it up, does anyone have a lead on a shooting lane protector for T2? I'm looking for something like this Mezel one but I couldn't find one that said it fits T2. https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector

Thanks a bunch for all the help and suggestions! G

Screenshot 2022-12-03 at 11.27.17 AM.pngScreenshot 2022-12-03 at 11.27.17 AM.png
#9480 1 year ago

Also, in my quest to get this baby dialled in, I've been trying to solve this annoying color DMD issue with the purple square pictured here.

- I reseated all the connectors
- Display Test showed no RAM errors.
- I traded the J603 Ribbon with a working one on my Dracula to see if that was the issue, but no luck.
- I took the DMD board from my Dracula and tried it on the T2 and I still got the same purple thing, so it's probably an actual issue with the Color DMD?

There were two other ribbon cables on the top left that I'll try switching out with Dracula tonight, just in case, but thought I'd see if this is ringing any bells for anyone. Many thanks! G

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#9482 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

From the looks of the display issue and confirmed by your tests, that’s a DMD issue

Yeah, seems like it. Emailing ColorDMD / Dmod / audihere now to see if they have any suggestions! G

2 weeks later
#9598 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Also, in my quest to get this baby dialled in, I've been trying to solve this annoying color DMD issue with the purple square pictured here.
- I reseated all the connectors
- Display Test showed no RAM errors.
- I traded the J603 Ribbon with a working one on my Dracula to see if that was the issue, but no luck.
- I took the DMD board from my Dracula and tried it on the T2 and I still got the same purple thing, so it's probably an actual issue with the Color DMD?
There were two other ribbon cables on the top left that I'll try switching out with Dracula tonight, just in case, but thought I'd see if this is ringing any bells for anyone. Many thanks! G
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just to close the loop on this from a few weeks ago. I spoke with Randy at ColorDMD and he explained my purple square / blotch was a module issue and I could either send in the faulty module for potential repair at $30 + shipping or buy 2 new modules for $60 + shipping. I bought the 2 new modules, installed tonight, and now I'm back to 100%. Feels great Thanks for all the help diagnosing! G

IMG_5913.jpegIMG_5913.jpeg
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