Terminator 2: Judgment Day
Williams, 1991You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Langless28.
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Would someone be so kind to measure the tallest end of their t2 cabinet and the shortest? I'm trying to compare its size to another pin I have that was a tight squeeze in my car. Thanks!!
Just the base cab if the above was not specific enough. Not including legs
I can finally join the club. Been searching for a T2 since the beginning. Something always came up. Buyer backed out, too expensive, too far away etc. well this T2 came off route today and was there since 1991.
Overall not bad condition. Some raised inserts but no wear on playfield. Everything works. Biggest issue is a bunch of gi is out and toasty gi connector. Perfect mpu but terrible dmd noise. No noise on vertical dmd test but lots of noise on horizontal test and all ones after that. Basically when a lot of the dmd is lit it's bad.
In my excitement to look over the playfield and examine boards, completely missed that HK ship was missing. Damn. Need to find one. Also missing plastic about 3 bank target.
IMG_8615 (resized).JPGIMG_8616 (resized).JPGQuoted from nugsy:quick newbie question...I just ordered an L-8 CPU chip as the machine came with L-3 originally. I heard someone say to be careful to make sure the sound chip is also compatible with the ROM as that can be important on some games. is there specific compatibility between CPU/sound ROMs on T2 that I should know about or am I good to install L-8 as-is?
Literally did same thing and am cursious if I need a new sound rom too.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Nifty idea! But if it were me, I would tie in the ground wire to the drop target switch, so it was only lit when the target was up.
that is a great idea!
does anyone know where the illuminated drop targets are purchased?
Quoted from DropTarget:Never do on Pinside. I think black looks better, but I like the bounce of white better.
Agree on this.
Quoted from tezting:They are silk screened.
“Due to Silk Screening, These decals have the fluorescent orange red. Colors and Print are perfect.”
That’s what’s make the superior compared to printed decals that I have previously bought.
I think maybe planetary is reselling he’s product? (He got the official license to do them) You can ask them.
Good call. Planetary also says they are silk screened.
With my performance gauged bonus I like to buy something simple as an attta boy (last year it was $200 of parallel clamps). Torn from buying a T2 plastic set or cab decals for 2018.
Quoted from Kingpin22:Does anyone know where this piece goes? It was in the skull loose and appears to fit in the hole where the VUK kicks ball to cannon. Is this supposed to be glued in? Thanks for any help
[quoted image]
It's supposed to be connected to the solenoid that kicks the ball from the skull. A spring and roll pin are needed too.
Anyone have a DIY solution for making the T2 skull eyes cooler? I do not feel like spending $15 on two LEDS for the real mod.
Quoted from Milltown:Thank you.. I've tryed alot to get it there ,every 6 times it may make it once....
Mine is off route, have not done a thing to it (hey ive been busy) and it makes it to pops every time. Is your game leveled left to right and at what pitch?
Quoted from Averell:Now the BackPlex is nearly finished and the LED backlight is already working.
I only have to install the protective strip, but it must be modified and powder coated first.
This is really cool. Since this is the state of my T2 I will definitely do this mod to it.
Great work!
064691BA-5CB9-42DB-B868-13BC71875E72 (resized).jpeg7192C2A1-5261-4AEC-8EB3-075191E3D931 (resized).jpegQuoted from tezting:Need help.
I am in doubt about the rubbers/posts on my game. I think mine might have been changed from stock at some point.
Should there be one or two large rubbers between the two posts?
Mine only had one - but I have a feeling there should be two?[quoted image]
Just tore mine down. Averell is right.
I will also have a used set for anyone else interested in a few months. I bought one of peters new sets.
Quoted from epeabs:Thank you. At this stage if decals are beat, just do the plastic. It probably won't get worse.
i always use metal protectors with any pin i get but plastic might be good in already rippled/ beat areas? Maybe cut around the plastic so it doesn't get worse but then your stuck with them for life unless you re-decal?
Quoted from RCSP:My first post in this thread. I've had a T2 about 11 years. It's in excellent condition. I don 't think it has the newest ROM available, where can I see the ROM revisions so I know if a new ROM will fix my issues?
Issue #1 - During Multi ball I often get 2 balls into the skull. This confuses the game, eventually it spits one ball to the cannon and if you hit the target it immediately says "Get that Super Jackpot".
Issue #2 - Is the drop target supposed to stop the ball from entering the skull? Often I hit the drop target, yet the ball still ends up in the skull. Happens a LOT, several times a day.
Issue #3 - I think this is related to issue #1, during a multi ball sometimes I hear "Get that Super Jackpot" and a ball is loaded into the cannon but no target lights are lit. This happens about every 30 games.
Thanks for the help!
I think after your second super jackpot the target is actually roaming not lit up, to make it that much harder to hit. Not sure I think i recall this being the way...
Long shot but does anyone have a new cliffy set for T2? I didn’t give myself enough time when I ordered it. Kinda at a stall on my restoration. I would send you the new kit I ordered when it arrives in a few week.
Thanks
Quoted from Malenko:Anyone have pictures of where the wires come in that feed the pop bumpers , the GI near the cannon, and the cannon?
Im trying to iron out the last of the bugs and I cant find my "before playfield swap" pictures.
No problem. Just finished bottom side.
The GI for the pops came a little short in my opinion so I made extensions. One wire goes to the tie point in the middle then the other goes to the front most lead (closest the player) which should be tied with a wire to the other two leads.
Let me know if you need the cannon motor and pictures.
4CCCF4C9-1B2C-4D77-BA4D-206420E7FA8C (resized).jpeg5B1712AA-4927-4CF1-B905-EFE29499BBA9 (resized).jpeg8CDA4AF0-8EAD-4AF5-9883-3CE3641C6BF6 (resized).jpegAC58D211-C699-4DB5-8687-2931482D7C44 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinball_customs:I still make them.
Gotta say, it kinda sucks when I see other modders ripping off a mod I created..
Yeah not good form
Quoted from smoothbore19:I have a driver board from my T2 that needs a new header pin, but the board looks like this. Looks like it got hot to the point that the pads melted.
[quoted image][quoted image]
New pads need to be put on the board then stitched back to the traces. If there is continuity then shear luck has done it on those bad traces. Might change when you solder new headers to it. But yes solder won’t stick to the pcb board, it only sticks to metal traces.
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Tyngsborough, MA