Sign me up in the club! I picked up a nice T2 a couple weeks ago and am almost finished shopping it out.
It's looking sweet. I only have one issue that I hope someone can help me with.

The left popper flash lamps light dimly (all the time). When testing the flashers, they just stay dim. They don't flash. Trying to trace where the wires go to on the power driver board. Can anyone help me out with what to check? If I can trace it to the board, I suspect it might be a bad transistor. Anyway, any help or information would be appreciated! When I finish the shop out I'll post some pics!

It has LED flashers in right now.

Thanks for the help, naud! Just got this pin a couple of weeks ago. I suspect that it has always been like this. It was already LED'd out when I got it, which looks great. These are the only two LEDs that aren't flashing, however.
Now, to test this, I just put in some incandescents and they don't fire either. So, something is amiss upstream.
I found this on the pinwiki, that in test mode if you hit the start button it will give you lots of info.
The left popper flashers are blu-red red-wht wires. J122-2 J107-6. F111 5amp sb fuse. Drives Q24 and Q23.
So, now I've checked the wires, the J122 and J107-6 connections (good and solid, no burns). Q24 and Q23 aren't shorted out.
Any ideas what I should look at next?

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I have just finished shopping out a pretty sweet T2 that I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
The good:
LEDs throughout. Excellent boards. No playfield wear. Hunter ship and skull in excellent shape.

The bad:
A couple of pin holes in the translite. Acrylic touchups fixed it nicely.
Just a couple of dings on the cabinet. Picked up some acrylics paints and fixed it right up.
A chipped plastic.
The playfield LEDs are all frosted whites. Not really a bad, but I replaced them with blue frosted and they look great.
Left pop flasher doesn't work (might be a bad Q23 Q24, but it's not bothering me too much, so I'll live with it for now).

Here's a picture of the broken plastic for which I was able to make a replacement!
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I traced out the plastic on a piece of 1/4" mdf and trimmed it on the bandsaw. Then with a bastard file I shaped it to the exact outline of the needed plastic. Then using double sided tape I attached a piece of clear acrylic to this template and created an exact replica of the plastic on the router table using a flush trim bit.
Next I was able to get an image of the plastic and printed it on an inkjet decal sheet. I attached that to the plastic, sprayed clear on top, and white primer on the backside. The result is a pretty good replacement plastic!

I did a full cleanup and installed offboard batteries, a red start button, chrome flipper buttons, Pinbits plastic protectors, undercab lights, apron cards, keychain and colored LEDs in the backbox.

Here is a mod I did on the hunter ship. Using the hunter ship protector, I hot glued 4 flex LEDs and wired it up to the GI.
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This gave me a blue glow to the hunter ship with reds under the engines.
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Here's a few more pics of the finished project.
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Thought I'd share this with everyone. Last night I had a killer game going on (for me) and all of a sudden the dmd started showing garbage. In test mode I was getting the dreaded RAM Address Error.
This morning I was about to move the displays / display driver cards to another machine to verify what was busted, but first I reseated the ribbon cables. Guess what! It's back in operation. So, reseating the ribbon cables fixed it.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Enaud

I did the blue LEDs and love it! Here's a link to my blog about it.
http://www.duaneconnell.com/blog/?p=920

My inlane metal guides are the same as you describe. It's just annoying when the ball goes down the outlane instead of the inlane.

And mine has always hit second from the bottom. It's consistent and I just time for hitting that target.