Quoted from Quadrider:Thanks Brother! Its looking like the 2 on the left are the 4056 and the one on the right is the 4057. That’s what I’ll order. Thanks again!!!
...the one on the right looks more like the 4036 acc. to the manual
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Quoted from Quadrider:Thanks Brother! Its looking like the 2 on the left are the 4056 and the one on the right is the 4057. That’s what I’ll order. Thanks again!!!
...the one on the right looks more like the 4036 acc. to the manual
Quoted from jibmums:Thought I was all done and gonna post pix of the finished game, and now the "dialing in" problems surface after the first few games. So it looks like the holes for the right inlane/outlane wire guide were drilled all the way thru my playfield, and every time the ball exits the right habitrail is knocks the wireform down into the pf a little bit. I was wondering why that wire was down at pf level when I got the game, and now I know. Any of you T2 owners had this problem? I'm thinking the best fix is a screw and washer next to each hole.
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I guess the best fix would be to repair the damaged pf: remove the wireform, fill the holes with e.g. „2 compound liquid wood“ and finally drill new holes only half the way through the playfield...
Quoted from Cdonnerusmc:Do you have any video clips you can share with us of it working in action? Can you tell us all the features? I'm definitely interested.
Hi, here‘s a short description:
- turning on the game or knocking down the skull drop target turns on the searchlights
- starting a game or loading the gun starts search modus/movement
- succeeding the skill shot starts destruction modus/shaking
The ship is milled from a solid aluminium block and finally chrome-plated, so absolutely worth the money.
Just my 5 cents...
Quoted from Bugsy:Does anyone know where you can get the Artificial Intelligence Lab sign from this picture? I'm guessing there is also one for the Skynet plastic too?
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...I guess it was a private (not commercial) initiative by a member of the German flippermarkt forum
Quoted from Mickpat:My T2 diamond plate playfield is mylar protected and I would like to remove the mylar using the freeze method. Has anyone had any issues removing the mylar and damaging the paint? Any tips or advice?
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…no problems with my T2 playfield using this method. But you should work very slowly, be patient
Quoted from Luckdragon100:Thanks for the responses! I checked the batteries and they're all fully charged Lithiums. The previous owner installed an external battery holder (pictured). I noticed that the black cable connecting the battery holder to the board was not connected and was just dangling, so maybe I pulled it loose when I changed the batteries. Not exactly sure where it connects, but I tried connecting it to the minus (pictured). Still no luck yet though. Any thoughts?
Thanks so much! G
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….and you solder point look awful, you should use some flux
Quoted from Averell:Hello at all,
after more than 4 years I've finished my Terminator.
Now it's in perfect condition and works very well again.
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Congratulations! You did a really great job
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