Quoted from loscanones:

I would rather call that "heavy damaged area".
In my opinion you have only three options:
1. Restore the whole playfield - expensive like hell if not done by yourself. Actually it`s better to buy another machine than follow this procedure.
2. Use an overlay for that area. It costs ~40 bucks + transportation. It`s a pretty cheap and effective solution.
3. Do nothing, just clean it.
I attach a picture with the overlay, so you can get the idea.

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Quoted from JakePG:

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Quoted from Manny65:

When you say not working - do you mean in game play or solenoid test mode or both?
Worth reading https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Blown_.2F_Failing_Q20_Transistor_on_the_Driver_Board_and_the_Tieback_Diode
Assuming you have the tie-back connected at the driver board end, then this link will take you through the steps to troubleshoot where the issue is https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

Quoted from Manny65:

Are you sure the return line to transistor is good? How did you fire the coil (briefly short the coil to ground, or short the transistor tab to ground or via the service menu)?

Quoted from Bohm:

Thank you, I had a lot of doubt after reading different things.

This is great information so thank you. This helped me confirm the coil has voltage and will fire, continuity from the coil to the transistor is solid, the fuse is good and Tip102 at Q20 tests functional and we just replaced it so I'm still at a loss. That leaves testing transistor 2N5401 and IC LS374 at I think U2. Kind of debating sending the board off or just buying a new one, it has had a lot of work done to it and I'm a novice at board repair.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Populate your own driver board with one of Victor’s designs (pinsider dumbass)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

sounds like just might need to replace the header and you are good to go?

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Send it to a pro.
You have lots ot options there.
I do this work all the time and can do it for you if you want, but I am in Canada.cheers

Quoted from vec-tor:

Williams has different cabinet switch configurations. The switch should be clear of any obstructions.
The switch most likely needs to be mounted lower in the cabinet.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

There's absolutely no doubt that your game was in water for a bit. Everything i'm seeing is text-book flood damage. I am curious if all the bits under the playfield are rusted and corroded also.

Quoted from Manny65:

With T2 (pre-fliptronics) the 50V power goes through the flipper button leaf switch. However the flippers can only work when the relay is active, which is enabled when you start a game - this is why with your issue the flipper only engages when you hit the start button. Therefore you have a short through your flipper button leaf switch - for example the leaf switch is permanently close, or you have a dead short through the capacitor, or those wires are shorted somewhere else.
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Using a DMM (with the machine turned off) you can do a connectivity test between the 2 lugs on the leaf switch. If shorted (which is suspected), unsolder the capacitor and retest it should now be open. Then test the capacitor to confirm it's shorted and needs to be replaced.
Note the current solder connection on the leaf switch isn't great - here's a great thread on soldering that helped me when I first started out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
As for the issue with the left flipper activating the plunger, that sounds like a diode issue (either failure or installed backwards) which will cause multiple switch activations in the switch matrix. Check out this video which will help you identify the switch/diode with the issue

Quoted from Manny65:

I'm struggling to see the connection between the flipper switches and the plunger being activated ... that said it's good to hear that you've identified the failed component causing the issue.

Quoted from Manny65:

I believe there's a setting that allows you to launch the ball using the flippers buttons - is that turned on?
When it occurs, is it just when there is a ball in the shooter lane? or every time you press the flipper button (regardless where the ball is on the PF)?

Quoted from Manny65:

What version of s/w are you running?

Quoted from Manny65:

Yes that version shouldn't be causing any issues ... maybe try a factory reset just to make sure.
The other thing is to check the solder joints for cracking or poor connections - the solder should be smooth and nicely formed. If the problem disappears as the game warms up, this could point to a poor connection somewhere (like the solder joints on the flipper button leaf switch you posted earlier - not being critical, just trying to give you pointers as to what could be the problem and what to look for).
Hope this helps

Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have a gun calibration procedure? My gun off slightly causing the ball not to roll into it (gets stuck on the wire form). Seems like it can’t find the home position all of a sudden. If it does the self calibration the game will play fine the rest of the night. Also before I do the self calibration during multi-ball it will just rotate back and forth and not go home. (Screwing up my multiball event of course)
Going to dig into this today. Thanks in advance for guidance.

Quoted from atg1469:

Curious, are there any specific LED lighting kits you folks feel stand above the rest? The game I purchased came with LEDs but I'm not loving the color layout. I recently added a blue LED strip to the top of the back panel and was surprised to see how UV reflective the paint is on the plastics and playfield! I really love these neon accents and would like to incorporate a setup that accentuates these features, but I also don't want to create a "blue monster" if you catch my drift! Any help (and photos of solid setups!) would be appreciated, thanks!

Quoted from tripplett:

Did you keep the incan flashers or go LED on those too?

Quoted from EStroh:

This is probably the most divisive topic in all pinball!
My two cents: It's your game - feel free to experiment and do what you want.
My (more detailed) two cents - I have a pretty decent collection of W/B pins, and I almost always use some version of white for the GI and I have migrated from using matching colored LED's for the inserts (I mostly just use white there as well). My BIG exception is T2. I love the glowing florescent rings in the game and I don't think the artwork is all that great otherwise (not an easy thing to admit on a T2 forum page). So for those reasons I just went ahead and did blue "clown puke" lights on this one to try it out with the intension of going back to cool white at some point... but I never did. So my TOTAN sitting right next to it glows in all warm white, and the IJ on the other side is all sunlight white... but the T2 sitting between them looks completely menacing with it's blue light and florescent highlights... I love it!
<Picture not added due to expected backlash>

Quoted from EStroh:

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.
In my defense this is the only pin I've done this to... I otherwise HATE anything other than white in the GI's. I also a have a Pinsound Rammstein mix running on this pin (that I created) as well as a shaker and a TON of mods. You really have to play it to appreciate the adrenaline rush - personally, I play it more than any other pin than I have here (stock looking AFM, TOTAN, TZ, IJ, TNA, W20, etc).
I'm sure 95% of the folks reading this are climbing the walls right now (so sorry). But hey, it's my favorite pin and I'm NEVER going to sell it!
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Quoted from Ant-H:

It’s made by Nemesis. You can buy them from Amazon I believe.

Quoted from Ant-H:

Initially as a complete skull it is far too long to fit as is due to it being a complete skull. But in terms of height and width when compared to the original plastic one did by side, it’s basically the same, just a lot longer from front to back. I did decide at one point to go with the loot crate skull mod but that looked too small imo.
I wanted it to be in the same position as the original, which is why I cut the sides so that I could mount it further back and in the same place as the original skull.
It was a bit more work than just cutting the sides as I had to grind some of the inside of the skull away so that the wire form had enough clearance.
That way the wire form could be completely hidden from one side and I could mount right back so you could still see the drop down target when playing.
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Quoted from ravve:

Just built myself a pinball rotisserie, I´ve decided to remove the playfield completely Wish me luck! Btw, if anyone have photos or descriptons on which connector goes where in the backbox, that would be appreciated! Long story short, my game came with an empty backbox (except for the wire harness/connectors), I have all pcb:s ready but need to make sure to connect them right... Already searched the web to gather pics and hopefully I have enough, but still if u guys have more pics or similar, it would be nice

Quoted from tripplett:

Has anyone installed these PinGraffics blades? If so did you like them? Any other blades people liking in their T2? I'm looking through the image gallery and see a few mirrors but that's all. Thanks.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/holo-terminator-2-pinblades
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Quoted from bicyclenut:

After driving 8 hours round trip, Im now part of the club. Needs a little work and Im going to trick this one out.
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Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks I am not very efficient at finding the correct item at Marcos.
It leads me to this part
515-5352-00 plunge
From this kit:
VERTICAL UP KICKER (VUK) COMPONENT KIT
#565-0029-01
Vertical Up Kicker (VUK) repair kit contains plunger, cap, spring, spring compression clips and roll pin.
Order this kit if you need the 545-5227-00 Vertical Up-Kicker ball "cup".
Ships un-assembled.
Contains the following components:
545-5227-00 ball popper cap
515-5352-00 plunger
266-5025-00 spring
270-5010-00 compression ring (3)
251-5004-00 roll pin
Reference:
Data East / Sega / Stern 565-0029-01
Wico 18-002900
Weight: 0.1 lb
But doesn't say it is for T2
Product Compatibility
DATA EAST
STAR WARS (Data East) , TALES FROM THE CRYPT,
And mine is black not natural nylon.
PLUNGER ASSEMBLY 3.875 INCHES
#A-11336
Ball popper armature and nylon tip extension assembly.
Overall length 3.875 inches (98 mm)
Reference:
D-12642 bottom ball popper assembly
B-12505 bracket
D-11335-2 ball popper assembly
B-11631 bracket
A-11336 armature
D-11335-1 ball popper assembly
20-9314-7 roll pin dowel 3/32 inch diameter x 1/2 long
515-5352-00
Weight: 1.73 oz
BALLY
ATLANTIS (Bally), BLACK ROSE, DR DUDE, DR DUDE, ELVIRA, PARTY ZONE,
WILLIAMS
BANZAI RUN, BLACK KNIGHT 2000, F-14 TOMCAT, FISH TALES, HURRICANE, SPACE STATION, TERMINATOR 2,

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks for taking the time and looking at this for me. I need the shaft that fits into the plunger cap.
If you look at my pic I need the part that get driven up by the coil the top of it broke off and you can see where the pin goes into it cuz it is broke there.

Quoted from Rascal-911:

Recently lost my right flipper, no power.
On the power driver board Fuse 112 was good ,but Fuse 102 was blown, replaced it and it blew again. I am suspecting BR3 rectifier, but haven't pulled the board to tested it yet. My pins don't break down often but when they do I need to go into learning mod, but there is much to learn, so I am looking for advice if I am on the right path from someone who knows these old Williams boards better than me.

Quoted from Rascal-911:

I ill check that tonight. You are referring to the EOS?

Quoted from Rascal-911:

I checked the clearance at the leaf on the cabinet switch and it does hit the ball plunger when button is hit, never did it before but something must have changed. Would that cause a short. I need to round up some fuses to do more testing. Out of stock of 3a slo blow.

Quoted from Rascal-911:

I am waiting on 3A Slo fuses from Digikey, but in the meantime, would 4A slo be too much to test with? It is a 2.5A from factory spec but had 3A installed, but I am worried 4A may be too big to use temporary to see if the cabinet switch shorting on the plunger is the problem.

Quoted from atg1469:

Been working hard on this transformation and figured I’d share the fruits of my labor with perhaps the one group of people that may actually give a shit!
Bought this game beat up and abused but really happy with how she’s turned out so far. I found a lot of great inspiration on this thread and in particular from the glorious build that Dna127 so graciously documented on Pinball life! I wish I had his skill set but I made do with what I had, and paid (handsomely I might add, god damn are chrome parts expensive!!) for the parts I couldn’t build myself.
Hope you folks dig it! Last two items I’m waiting on are the custom cannon and shooter lane covers. Likely need to add a few spotlights up front too in order to brighten up the middle playfield, but that should do it!
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Quoted from DystopicPinball:

Hi everyone,
I'd like to share with you the gallery of all the mods I've made for my Terminator2 pinball!
Thank you
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/my-pinball-gallery/terminator-2

Quoted from ravve:

Guys! I need some opinions for this playfield protector that I bought online.
Unlike other protectors, this one is covering the whole playfield. It came missing a bunch of holes, so I have put LOTS of time into making new holes.
Now it looks like in the pic below.
I compared it to the more known protector, which has cuts in several places. I marked these places with blue line.
Do I dare to put the protector on the game as it is, or should I cut it according to the blue lines? If don´t like the idea of cutting it since I already put that much time into it, but my concern is that there will probably be stuff holding it down if I don´t cut it. Like the ramps. I read that the protector shouldn´t be held by nothing so that it is allowed to be flexible when temperature etc changes.
Opinions? Should I try as it is or will I regret it?[quoted image]