Just picked my T2 up this past weekend.

Does the WPC95 red DMD filter from Pinbits fit the T2? That is the only one they have in stock.

Thanks!! Now I need to find one.....

Thanks for the tip Joe. I just ordered it.

Here is a link to some information on a post from another T2 topic when I was looking for a red DMD filter.

I ended up finding something that worked at Marcos. It is for a Gottlieb but it fit perfect and only cost $4.85. And it is just like Rubylith only it doesn't separate from the clear sheet.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=30189U

For that price, there is no reason that any Terminator should be orange..... unless you wanted it I guess.

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I did something similar with my hunter mod. I hot glued the flex LED's to the protector. I cut the LED's off of the bases (be careful not to cut the resistor) If you have more than one color, mark them so you can tell them apart off the base. I put blue lights around the edges that are connected to the GI and I put 5 red ones spaced up the middle that will be connected to the white target lights. I will finish it during the holidays sometime. I got involved in another project.

IMG_20131208_190320_042.jpgIMG_20131208_175529_917.jpg

IMG_20131208_180805_848.jpg

Finally finished my mod for the ship. Blue LEDs connected to the GI. I tried tying into the 5 target lights for the red LEDs but it created ghosting back to the inserts in the playfield.

I ended up tying into the cannon flashers. I think it turned out pretty well.

IMG_20131231_104105_230.jpg

Same here. Pinbits showed out of stock but wasn't really.

I would definitely put some mylar there. Wax it really good before you put it on or it will lift the paint if you ever have to peel it off. (even with freeze spray)

Die Cut Ball-Drop Protective Playfield Mylar $.39

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=305

Yes. It's just peel and stick. If you are careful, you can't even see them. I usually put them down by sticking a corner on the tip of an exacto knife and gently placing them in.

Yeah. I think terrorists are using Rubylith to guide missiles or something.

Don't do it! That's all I am going to say.....

My skull eyes dimly ghost just a little no matter what LEDs I have. The symptoms where the multiple bulbs come on full is usually a short in the lamp matrix. If you go back to incandescent and it is STILL doing it then you know you have a short. I can usually find the short by going into single lamp test mode and the one that doesn't light is usually the problem area. (not in your case though, I guess) It could also be a short at the connector. If that doesn't do it. Then get a flashlight and get in close and look at each socket and wiring. It's also usually a 44 socket. The 555's are pretty short-proof.

I added a mod to my T2 that includes a working flame thrower and a T1000 that melts into a puddle on the playfield whenever a super jackpot is reached.

I am still working the bugs out of it but it is going to be great.

Pictures soon.

I haven't had the issue you are having with T2 but I did have the same thing with a Pinbot.

Can you lower the target assembly under the playfield by adding washers between the assembly and the playfield?

You may have to fill the wear with a piece or two of mylar. You can fill a groove by building up strips of mylar like an upside down pyramid. In that area, you will never see it.

I would go with Comet Pinball LEDs. They are inexpensive super bright and the owner is a great guy to deal with. I usually spend $100 or less per machine. (without #89 flashers they are usually a few bucks a piece)

I use these non-ghosting in all my inserts. 89 cents
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

I color match the bulb color to the insert color. He gives price breaks if you buy a bag of 25 of any color.

For the GI I use frosted retro look bulbs. 45 cents
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/25-pack-1retroled.htm

I did my T2 in mostly blue and red so I did the 25 packs and added to it.
IMG_20131207_193959_520.jpg

I used Comet LEDs in my cannon flashers and in my Hunter mod. (Hunter ship is flashing red in picture. It isn't always this bright)
IMG_20131231_104228_827.jpg

For example here is my order with Comet when I ordered for my T2. I ordered 4 packs of 25 so I had a bunch left over. And I use white non-ghosting in the yellow / orange inserts. They look better to me than yellow bulbs.

There are also some bulbs in this order that I tried and didn't use at all like the 15 frosted reds. I like to try a couple of different layouts and see what I like better. I also order some red #89s. Anyway. This is just an example of an order.
2014-02-11 13_58_48-Comet Pinball LED Bulbs.jpg

Got my shooter back from Mike Chestnut. Replated gun and the trigger and replaced spring. Sent back ready to install. Awesome job. Can you tell the difference?
Before
IMG_20140119_182046_719.jpg
After
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Answers:
The screws are in correctly I guess, they are just black. The Torx is on the left side.
$85 total cost.
Yes the misaligned decals are factory (as crazy as it sounds). I got the T2 from a pretty reputable guy and I asked the same thing.
Before
IMG_20140119_182106_914.jpg
After
IMG_20140227_080421_179.jpg

Feels so good, you want to leave your hand on it. (that sounded weird)

Man that post is shiney!! Where can I get those? I would love to have a few of those without sending them out to get them chrome plated.
2014-03-17 13_44_10-Terminator 2 Club....Members Only! « Pinside Pinball Forum - Pinside.com.jpg

I put a big quilt over the front of the cabinet (over the coin door) folded up so there is about 6 inches of padding. Then I lift the playfield straight up out of the hinges and then slide it forward so that it is out of the hinges and and the playfield is sitting on the hinges at about the last 2 inches of the back of the playfield and then gently set the front edge down on the quilt. The fact that the underside parts are sitting on the quilt is not ideal, but compared to removing and putting in a rotisserie it is too easy. I have never had a problem breaking anything on the underside. Some people use this technique and build wood blocks so that the front of the playfield is sitting on wood blocks. I tried that and it really didn't work for me.

The cool part of this technique is that you can power it up and look at the lights while you are doing it. Especially if you have a lot of parts to remove if you don't like the way the lights look.

Hope you got this figured out. Patofnaud is right about using a meter. You should be able to figure this one out in a few minutes with a meter. Unplug the GI connector from the board and check ohms on each pin (on wire side). The dead short will be easy to spot. Then trace that wire backwards to the playfield. Take a flashlight and look at each socket carefully. Also make sure that you haven't put any screws through wires if you removed some things.

I would think it would break when the canon hits it. Maybe not

Mine does the same thing once in a while. I noticed on mine it seems like the left flipper is triggering it when it does it. I am thinking bad diode or capacitor maybe.

I can't recreate it when I am in a mood to work on it either.

Either the inserts are sinking or the clear is lifting. Not sure Vid's guide can help you if the whole playfield is doing that.
Is the clear coat factory?

I have only been using Comet for a while now. They are awesome and I have NEVER had a problem with bulbs. I did my T2.

I used the supreme 4 SMD non-ghosting in the inserts matched to the color of the insert. (I like them bright)
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528-ng.htm

and for the GI and the backglass I used the single LED frosted and domed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8mm-led.htm

They are so inexpensive, I usually buy the 25 pack if possible. Even if I only use 10-15.

A machine usually runs $100

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For the most part. I think I have a few frosted cool whites up around the pop bumpers someplace where it seemed a little dark.

Finally got my original 1991 T2 poster up before my super bowl party. Interesting how to tell it is an original single sheet. It is printed on both sides. and one side was backwards.

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Thanks. I can't take credit, the previous owner had them done.

Marco has them in stock once in a while. They are sold out of the smaller ones. I am pretty sure that is what you want. (measure and make sure)
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9672

Looks like Action Pinball has them in stock.
http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=20-9672

I looked at my machine the other night. You just need the small ones, they will work. You will need to cut them down a little and make a slot for the wire on at least one of them.

Rock. love the alternate translite. Where did you get that? I would love to have one.

There has got to be a picture of this someplace on Pinside. I do the blanket trick and lift the playfield out of the hinges, pull it forward so the wood at the back edge of the playfield is sitting on the cabinet hinges on each side and set the front of the playfield on a thick quilt draped over the front of the cabinet. Been doing it for years and never had an issue.

Use the Shop Vac attachment with the little brush on the end and try not to touch the playfield. Once the majority of the glass is gone, gently use the brush to get the remaining glass without brushing. The trick is to vac everything "up" without touching any glass.

Now you just need to hot glue a couple of finish stainless washers to the LEDs and you are good.
I got mine at a local hardware store for 10 cents each. Home Depot has them for 5.98 for 25.
2015-03-19 10_12_35-The Hillman Group #12 Stainless-Steel Washer (25-Pack)-2908 - The Home Depot.jpg

Glad I could help. They look great.

I forget too. Seems like the bulb had to be turned around? Unless it is a 44 then not sure....

remove excess weight. It's probably illegal now...

I am a huge Terminator fan. Just saw Terminator Genisys. I am going out on a limb here. There will never be a Terminator Genisys machine built. Ever....

And I believe that Genisys hurt the value of my T2. ha ha

Those are called "Cliffy's" because I guy named Cliff makes them. They are after market. I looked around and I can't find who has them in stock right now. Normally Bay Area Amusements has them I think. That is where I bought mine.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/
http://bayareaamusements.com

I like yours better. I will PM you.