Quoted from loscanones:Don`t forget: You cannot play pinball in low gravitation!
Virtual pins could work
Quoted from ForceFlow:For a mostly vanilla T2 that's clean and shopped, they seem to hover around the $2200-$2600 range.
Bought my T2 right in that range then shipped it to HEP for the restore. It was a functional, somewhat clean pin. Everything worked. Perfect for restoring. What level of the process you want to move up to is where the price increase comes in play.
t2's a keeper for me. Just so much nostalgia... it's not the first pinball I ever played, but it's the first one I specifically remembered that I played. Just waiting on that color dmd...
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Pretty sure the DMD animation has no correlation to the gun. Never was supposed to, its just an effect.
I was pretty sure the display was supposed to match up with the cannon. For example, when the crosshairs on the DMD are lined up with the middle of the ship, the cannon is supposed to be aimed at the middle target.
Maybe I'm wrong though. Going to do some more digging.
Edit: it appears as though I am wrong and mistaken. For some reason I thought you could use the animation on the display but that doesn't seem to be very accurate. Regardless my cannon is still slow and needs to be cleaned.
Quoted from Bugsy:I was pretty sure the display was supposed to match up with the cannon. For example, when the crosshairs on the DMD are lined up with the middle of the ship, the cannon is supposed to be aimed at the middle target.
Maybe I'm wrong though. Going to do some more digging.
You're wrong.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Also, lets talk about price on T2 right now. WOW, is it inflated. What is the deal?? I have seen more $3000-$4000+ T2s than I have ever seen before. Usually its craiglist with the dumb prices, now its pinside.
I'm thinking about selling my players T2 for around the $2200 OBO mark...if that makes you feel better?
Quoted from mavantix:I'm thinking about selling my players T2 for around the $2200 OBO mark...if that makes you feel better?
Im not mad or anything. I might be if I was trying to get a T2 though. I could sell mine quick at $2500 as I know a few people who want it at that price. I think I might push for $3000 though on the open market if I ever sell.
Hey all! Not a member yet, but I will be someday -- this machine is my holy grail. I'd had a deal secured on a nice one, of which I was going to take delivery this month, only to have it sold out from under me last night. Naturally this is a crushing disappointment. As such, the hunt is back on; if any of you have been thinking of letting yours go, maybe now's the time! [wink wink]
Quoted from Sinistarrett:what is that cable wrap you used?
It`s Viablue, used in HI-FI or professional audio equipment.
A customer asked me to mod a motorcycle for him. It was for lethal weapon, but I think maybe it's better for t2. Its 5" long. What do you think?
They aren't cheap toys so I don't think I'm going to produce them as id likely have to charge too much to make it worthwhile, but I thought it came out nice. Has a mount in the back to attach to any playfield screw.
Thats way cool. Not sure where it would go though. Pretty big. Over the chase loop would be the best place...but it wouldnt match the scale of the other toys Ive used. Now I gotta find a scale police bike, thanks pal! Haha
I think it's 1:18 scale. I'm going to find another and fit it into a t2 I recently sold to my friend. I think it should fit, it's not very tall.
It may fit by the cannon or by the upper lanes toward the top right. I thought it was cool. I'm debating making it as a production mod if there is demand and I can find them. Not sure what to charge, but am thinking $80-100. That bike isn't cheap.
Has anyone added any action figures to their game? I found some nice looking ones, but 7" seems really tall. I like the look and detail of these figures, but was hoping to find something smaller.
Quoted from Lermods:I think it's 1:18 scale. I'm going to find another and fit it into a t2 I recently sold to my friend. I think it should fit, it's not very tall.
It may fit by the cannon or by the upper lanes toward the top right. I thought it was cool. I'm debating making it as a production mod if there is demand and I can find them. Not sure what to charge, but am thinking $80-100. That bike isn't cheap.
Right on. I have the police heli above the right ramp and the swat van in front of it mounted to the plastic stack before the cannon. I think theyre 1:32 scale.
So many thing to buy to mod t2 lol. It gets out of control. Gotta pick and choose my battles.
Backbox almost done...only some EEprom labels and few screws to install.
I was trying to find an elegant solution for ribbon cables so i came with an idea...to have them covered - with style.
Not so bad for a 30 minutes job.
Backbox can "breathe" now, and looks like it should be - according to my standards.
Does anyone happen to have a T2 "right hand" plastic that sits over the right slingshot. Mine is chipped and cracked. I checked all the sources including the ones overseas with nothing available. I'd be willing to purchase just the 1 plastic, both left & right hand plastics or a whole plastic set if needed. I know how hard these are to find but I'm hoping someone has a spare they don't need. Thanks-Joe
image_43679_1 (resized).jpg
I've bought a Terminator 2 pinball last month and I love it!
It's still quite stock, but I'm considering of modding it a bit with some LEDs and some chrome/stainless stuff.
Nice topic.... I'm halfway reading all the T2 posts and already seen a lot of cool stuff to put in the game.
So I went to fix a friends T2, and his chief complaint was that the cannon does not aim at the bottom-most target.
I noticed a small link on the gearbox has some elongated holes, introducing some slop to the whole thing.
Instead of buying a $300 motor from Marcos, does anyone make this link separately ?
Thanks.
Quoted from loscanones:Cable management on the back of the main cabinet...more space, and no rubbing against PF - that was really annoying for me.
And...no more spaghetti under PF
What did you use for cable management?
Hello everyone. I have a T2 gun that is made out of aluminum for sale. I'm going to list it on eBay but not sure what price to list it for. I don't think there are any aluminum guns ever done before. So this would be a one of a kind...
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
So my dmd started looking like this tonight. Game plays normally. You can tell what the dmd trying to display still but it's all jumbled. I've tried reseating all the connections but it didn't help. I have a spare dmd from my No Good Gofers...is that interchangeable with T2?
Quoted from Jakers:So my dmd started looking like this tonight. Game plays normally. You can tell what the dmd trying to display still but it's all jumbled. I've tried reseating all the connections but it didn't help. I have a spare dmd from my No Good Gofers...is that interchangeable with T2?
Yes they are interchangeable but I doubt that problem is with the actual DMD. You most likely have a bad ribbon cable leading to or from the DMD controller board. Can you borrow the cables from another machine to test? Look carefully at the pins to get them lined up properly and make sure you have pin 1 aligned on the same side of the cable (easiest to put the red tracer on the ribbon towards pin 1 on each board).
Hi all, I joined the club a few months ago. 1st pin, learning a lot. I've read through many posts here and appreciate all the tips and the pics to help me along the way.
I'm am very much an amateur and just learned ohms law this weekend when making a 'mod' (not really a mod but I used one of my kids flashing snowflake wands to make a $5 HK flasher). Also, re-rubbered, LED'd (cointaker), moved my battery holder, and tried to patch up some lacquer cracking (pretty bad) and tried to touch up but I really need to do a better job color match.
Pics (out of order) and a question.
Question: The mod appears to run throughout the entire game but I think this is due to a 100uf capacitor that was part of the wand. Should I remove that cap? I'm thinking of buying another wand and building a test kit.
If you have any questions let me know. Very happy with the T2!
Pics below
Quoted from Schwaggs:Yes they are interchangeable but I doubt that problem is with the actual DMD. You most likely have a bad ribbon cable leading to or from the DMD controller board. Can you borrow the cables from another machine to test? Look carefully at the pins to get them lined up properly and make sure you have pin 1 aligned on the same side of the cable (easiest to put the red tracer on the ribbon towards pin 1 on each board).
So my problem ended up being a loose ribbon cable connection at J601. All is well now. Thanks!
Quoted from Jakers:So my problem ended up being a loose ribbon cable connection at J601. All is well now. Thanks!
Congratulations on the fix! Glad you are back up and running!
No. First off you have a broken left side plastic which is missing the front mounting hole and allowing the whole assembly to rotate. The skull is mounted to the plastic with L brackets with 2 screws into the plastic and 2 rivets into the skull. The skull movement forward and back could be a combination of the first issue and/or loose L brackets screws or rivets.
Just joined the club again.This is my 3rd T-2 and the nicest.Looks new with a crystal clear mylar over the diamond plate.Rediscovering how great this game really is,Simple with satisfying shots. Bought it to flip but will keep for awhile because of the condition.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:No. First off you have a broken left side plastic which is missing the front mounting hole and allowing the whole assembly to rotate. The skull is mounted to the plastic with L brackets with 2 screws into the plastic and 2 rivets into the skull. The skull movement forward and back could be a combination of the first issue and/or loose L brackets screws or rivets.
Got it. I just ordered a replacement plastic and hopefully that will fix both issues. Thanks!
I've been playing T2 a lot on location lately and had a rules question that I hoped someone could answer. It concerns starting multiball when hitting the skull. The machine I'm playing on isn't in the best condition and I'm wondering if there's an issue with the sensor or if it's just the ruleset. I've read the rules that I could find online but the don't really go into the details of the 2nd, 3rd, etc multiball. I've watched Bowen PAPA video and he mentions that for the 2nd multiball and on there's a timer that starts once you hit the skull the first time and open the drop target. You only have so long to load a ball int eh skull before the target goes up again. Is that correct and if so does anyone know how long the timer is?
It also seems like when I get tot eh 3rd multiball opportunity and above multiple hits to the drop target are needed before it open? Is this part of the ruleset or could there be a problem with the sensor on the drop target.
Got my personal best of 147 million yesterday. I know that's small potatoes compared to most on here, but it still earned me 3rd place on location.
I hope this makes sense, any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Yes, the timer is standard. You only have so long to hit the skull.
I don't recall the 3rd multiball taking more than one shot to enable but its not something I see very often....
Not sure how long the timer is. Maybe 20 seconds if I was to guess? The insert blinks faster and faster.
The multiple drop target hits is new to me. Mine is always one shot then the timer.
Thanks for clarifying, that helps. I'll pay more attention to the number of hits and the length of the timer next time I'm playing. But I suspect there also a bit of an issue with the sensor in the drop target.
That looks great, how much would a complete chrome package Cabinet decals, backbox decals and translite be?
Quoted from PeterG:That looks great, how much would a complete chrome package Cabinet decals, backbox decals and translite be?
+1
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