I had a Lethal Weapon 3 sited at my Local. Just swapped it out for my minty T2. They prefer the LW3. WTF!! I might drop my EM in for a real culture shock

Some pics of the trigger handle, what it's supposed to look like...
It is normal for the spring to sloppily go through the collar, the collar's only function is to limit travel of the trigger/pin.
The spring actually compresses inside the collar when you pull the trigger.

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Was it Mike Wiley? He's a great guy

I'm ashamed to admit, that I don't remember. When I bought the machine, I was not even working at that distributor anymore, and that was the last time I saw or talked to him... 22 years ago. A lot of names and faces have been deleted from the ol VRAM since then.

TheOnlyest - Thanks so much for taking off your Terminator 2 gun handle & posting pictures. I really appreciate your time & effort. It's back together & works great!!

No prob bud, sorry for taking so long.

Now I need a return favor! I need a pic of the driver board IN the game, nice high-res, making sure that every connector on all 4 sides can be seen. I'm doing some research on possible variants between early and late versions of this game. So multiple people that would do this would be greatly appreciated!

This is "funny" I was sure that the trigger was the other way. I was thinking why should it else be "shaped" and I also looked in the manual
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But guess I was wrong

After I left home for lunch I realized that I took pictures of my Funhouse boards. I think they are the same but I'll take pictures of the Terminator 2 driver when I get home tonight.

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The boards are basically the same (WPC), but there's a possibility that some of the actual wiring connections are different.
Thanks for the effort!

Sorry for the mix up

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Awesome! thanks very much bud. I see that your GI connector was no exception to the T2/WPC "burn" plague!

I am thinking about getting PinSound for my T2.
The video of it sounds awesome but I really miss the real Arnold voices.
- What is the reason for not using the original voices?
- Is it possible to make a version with the music from the video but with original voices?

To improve the quality of the Arnold callouts when played through the pinsound board, you have to improve the quality of the source material which means re-recording them. You could use the originals with the pinsound board but the quality will not improve all that much.

Also, many of the things Arnold says in the pin, are not in the movie.

It's a Pinsound board, you can do what you want. What this guy did was his personal preference. If you want to use original sounds and mix in some redone sounds, go for it.

Thank you for the answer. I wonder what pinball arcade did? Or are the samples on their t2 just as "bad" as the original t2?

TPA uses the same original audio.

Thank you.
So no noticeable audio improvements? (Noise reduction etc. )

Glad to see someone else wants to do the same thing as I do if I get a pinsound card. While I appreciate the effort put in by the voice actor to re-record the call outs, it bothers me because I know that's not actually Arnold. If I end up with one of these cards I would like the original call outs with the real T2 theme music and maybe add in Guns N Roses for a multiball or something.

Great idea with GNR

Is a good idea.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/soundtrack

You guys are "waaaay out of lie-E-ine".............Joey

Congrats... The only plastics ever available are NOS, and a few repro specifics like slings. ebay is your best bet, good luck finding much.... More mods than any other machine I know of, spend a Sunday reading through this thread.

I have a mod for sale, they are my LED Leg Light-Ups. Look for the topic "New LED Leg Light-Ups", or in the Market Place. Also Pinsider beatmaster has his Shooter Housing Light up for sale too. Combined our mods put your game in a whole new light.

They are the clear plastic cab protectors so they extend out from the leg about 3/8th of an inch and that 3/8th lights up and lights up some of the cab too. Look at the pictures on my topic.

My T2 is back together after being stripped, cleaned, cleared, powder coated, and cleaned some more.

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Nice! Love the black and the black rubbers. I always thought white rubbers looked out of place with this theme.

It was hard to see in my other photos here is a close up of the powder coat. Also a big thanks to Joe at Laseriffic for the plastic protectors.

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Thats one interesting T2.

Oooo. That looks really cool. Like a light-blue flake? Really different and cool. I've always been curious--what does a professional charge to powder coat a pin these days (rails, coin door, lockdown bar, etc.)? Do they do all the prep or do you?

If there's not much masking off and if they have the color in stock 250 to get it done.

Interesting that you got the gun assembly done too - did you pull it apart to have it powdercoated?

Now when I hit the target under the skull there is no "initiated target activated" voice. Anyone have a idea what could be the issue?

Its likely the game doesn't know you hit the drop target, use the switch test to see if it registers the target in the up and down positions.

Ok.. I'll try that. The target does drop when it's hit if that means anything.

Does the database light up when the drop is hit/down...???............Joey

I'll check that tomorrow. After the target is hit & goes down... the ball can go through & I hear "shoot the target" & it loads the cannon.

That just means your drop hole switch is working, but clearly the drop target sensor is not working, I cant remember if its an opto or a cherry switch, but I guarantee that is the problem and should be a very simple fix.

Thanks theOnlyest... would the opto or switch be right below the target... under the playfield?

There are no optos in T2, but yes the drop target microswitch is located directly underneath and attached the drop target assembly. You can't miss it.

Yes. I pulled it apart and taped the inside off. I didn't powder coat the trigger.

Is the microswitch circled look like it may be bad or not positioned correctly? Nothing seems like it would be able to trigger it?

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The switch looks like its similar to a roll-over switch, and I cant see the wire part of the actuator. You can push the drop target up and down with your hand to see if the switch actuator moves when the target drops down. You can also gently move the switch actuator with your finger to hear and feel the click of the switch operating. As a side note, i'm concerned about the spring sticking out from behind the drop-target assy in the first pic that clearly isn't attached to anything?? I believe that's the spring the pulls the target down when its dislodged. I apologize for being vague, I am at work now and dont have the benefit of being at home to look at my game.

Here is a diagram of the drop target assembly if it may help. I agree that spring needs to be connected to swiftly pull down the drop target to engage the microswitch.

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Oh ok... maybe that the problem... its the spring pointed with a green arrow? It should be attached to the microswitch?

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