Hey guys whadda think.....I mean the damage is done.....can I keep playin or will it get worse....???!!!.............Joey

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Yes you can keep playing and yes it will get worse over time. You can put a piece of mylar over the damage to prevent it from getting worse and bend that flap back down so it's resting on the mylar.

Good info! I bought mine and it had 29s. The game played nice. I shopped the entire game and rebuilt the flippers with 30s because I wanted it to be like the manual. I can make the shots fine but the game feels slow. I want to tilt the game a little higher and I might need the 29s in there.

Is it ok to stick the Mylar to the ramp as to use it as "tape" to hold down the ramp...I've tried a lot and can't get the flaps to rest on PF.....and when they do rest...in a few games it comes right back up.....???.....Thank you............Joey

If the ramp pops back up that means the screw holes are stripped. There is a thread on repairing stripped holes. Pinball life sells 2 different size ramp screw. IIRC you need #4 size ramp screws. G.L. Joe

If the holes are indeed stripped, easiest way to repair is to use a wooden match stick (or round toothpick), put a dab of glue on the match stick, jam it in the hole, break the match off flush with the top of the hole and screw it back together.

Toothpicks are too small unless you use a couple of them. Wooden matchstick for small holes like these and for posts use a wooden dowel or those sticks they sell as shish-kabob skewers.

Make sure the glue you use is a wood glue. Elmer's, Gorilla, whatever but it will say Wood Glue as the type. Don't read the fine print (words on wood, plastic...).

Put a coat of the glue [not a blob] on the stick, not in the hole or you'll push it in a makes a mess. Snap it off flush.

Got offered a nice Slugfest and a Black Hole for my T2....barely interested. Any thoughts from the peanut gallery?

Any deal that leaves you without a T2 is NOT a good deal............Joey

I know...like I said, just tossing it around. I am not that serious about it. I really wanna see his BH especially first. Id miss the hell out of T2, and I have a pile of mods I still need to add to it. I dont think its going any where, but it did get me thinking....

I hear yaa.....I'm to the point I've had my 2 for years now...a 3rd is still a bit away....and having something new would be great....but I'd miss them too much...I'm lucky enough to have a great location 5 min away (20+).....that really helps..........Joey

Does anyone know where I can get the bolt and bushing that the playfield sits on in the cabinet? Looking to replace at least the bushings.

Thanks

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Huh,

I mean that is a 2 for 1 deal. That is always interesting.

Love my T2 but I also miss BR.

I tried to email via the site, tried to email direct to an address of Pam, no reactions.....anyone knows if PINBITS is still in business? Does anybody have a spare T2 huntership with mod lying around?

Try emailing [email protected]

I am having a jam up issue with my T2. When I am in multiball and I lock a ball in the skull, a second ball gets caught behind the drop down target. I have to pull the glass off and push down the drop target to release the ball. Anything I can do to fix this issue besides not to shooting the skull once I lock a ball in?

What ROM are you using?

Also, maybe the switch needs to be adjusted. As soon as the ball goes in, the target should go up.

I just replaced mine with two of these:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4329

I was having the same issue... there is a tech bulletin about it... you need to cut a small block of foam and it goes in the skull. helps prevent the second ball from jumping up and getting stuck with the other ball.

See:
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf

I haven't tested this yet, but I placed one of those blue rubber pads on the back metal rail inside... it will take up space and maybe help prevent two balls as well.

hope that helps...

The T2 I recently picked up some some slight wear on the cabinet around the flippers buttons. What have you used to hide the wear? I use the black metal Stern button covers on my Sega and DE games when needed. But T2 has the stainless metal rails, so not sure what would look decent.

Just picked up a T2 this weekend with a missing HK. Anyone have one or know where to find one cheaper than Marco? Over 40 bucks with shipping there.

I need a ship for this T2 and needed one for my previous one and Marco was the only place I found.

That's about going rate for a new HK ship. I would purchase from Starship Fantasy if they offer it just based on my experience with their skull. Marco's skull looks like crap and Starship's looked much closer to original.

Out of stock at Starship. Whomp Whomp. Do you know if there is a quality difference for the HK between the two vendors?

Thanks for the help. I actually just switched out the skull with the Lootcrate one and it seems to do the trick.

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Not sure which with which molds the Marco parts are made but there is a visual difference between the starship parts and some of the others out there. If I were you, I contact starship and would wait until they are available from them.

If you can't wait, I'll sell you my brand new h/k ship and skull with painted teeth for $60 shipped con US. The skull was installed but removed almost right away. They both are from the less detailed molds. PM me if interested. Send me your mobile number if you want pictures.

I contacted Larry this afternoon. Received a reply pretty quickly. Unfortunately, we are looking at a 4 to 6 month wait until he is restocked again. I thought about it and maybe I'll just wait. I'd rather have the original Williams mold.

I'm adding the Lootcrate skull on my 3rd T2. I just sell the original skull on eBay and buy the Lootcrate for $7 shipped. Pays for itself and looks WAY better.

Sorry if this came up before. One more thing that is bothering me. This is the second T2 I've played that has this problem... The habitrail near the left sling tends to not return the ball to the inlane properly. It comes down off the guide but will roll up sometimes out to the left outlane or to the right of the sling. Almost like it has back spin on the ball or something? Anyone else experience that and find a way to resolve?

So I have a question. Has anyone installed the laser mod on the cannon? I have one installed but not sure where to power it from. I'd prefer to only have it come on when actually doing the shot. It's rated at 5v dc I believe.

No because thats cheating. Cheater.

Yes, the charm of the game is that as soon as the gun is loaded you hang over the machine and try to aim. Love that physical element.

I can't remember where I saw the post about how to aim the ball from the gun/plunger but when I pull the trigger it alway hits the top target. Shouldn't it be hitting the middle one?

Mine always hits the top target too, I don't think it's a major issue

They all hit differently, it makes no difference.... It's a skill-shot because you have to time your shot to hit that target when its lit. That's also the reason the lights scroll faster each time you hit it.
If you didn't know what target the shooter would hit and the lights were also moving... it would be a LUCK-shot, not a skill-shot!

If you are looking at the graphic on the display when shooting the cannon it doesn't match up with the target. You have to try and aim looking at the actual cannon.

Anyone ever see a hack like this? I'm assuming it must have worked at some point, but need to totally test everything. Quick testing last night found .67 at 5v, but didn't have time to go further. Getting a new dog tomorrow, so probably not until this weekend can I work on it.

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WOW... .......now that is a hack...!!!..............Joey

Yes I want to be a cheater but I'm just surprised I'm the only one.

Wow, that is one for the record books!

:O

I have a brand new plastic ramp if anyone needs one. pm me if interested.

PM Sent

Anyone got the exact measurements for the Terminator 2 back glass and thickness. I picked up a machine that did not have it and need to buy one or get one made.

Thanks

I have been offered a T2 pin for $2500 is in good shape has been in HUO for some time now. I wanted to know if this would be a good deal for a first pin.

In huo for some time does not mean huo. I have a getaway that has been huo for over 20 years but is whipped cause it MADE MONEY

If it's in perfect shape with absolutely zero playfield wear or other issues then $2500 is fair.

HUO, routed, whatever. Condition is king. Check cab and PF art for fading of the fluorescent ink. Check that the inserts are level (they like to raise or sink on T2). Check the cannon operation is smooth and swift. Check the cabling as it connects to the driver board for hacked up and/burned connectors.

How should it look? I am about to repaint some on mine and have matched the current color. But can easily make it different if it is more correct?

On the PF? For touch ups, I would just match what's there. Trying to repainted all that color on the PF will be a huge job!