Hi T2 friends!
I need a little help with two "hacks" on my T2.
Would like to have them removed and done correctly.
Can I just buy the correct connector for both and I will be fine?

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You will need new connectors, crimp contacts, and header pins for each connection.

Thank you!
So it is the right "sockets" that are used? I "just" need new connectors? Would love a link to the correct connector, looks like there are many sizes.

At 2 ohms, it looks like you may still have the diode installed. Is it?

Usually a stuck switch shows at 0 ohm.

With the wires off the switch the DMD still shows that switch in error? If so, that is odd. As the switches are in a matrix, any failure on the row or column logic will manifest as a string of bad switch errors. Not just one.

Patofnaud - pm sent

Just wondering if the 2 green spots on this connector may be causing the issues.20150912_200609.jpg

Hard to make out that picture to tell if that is green marker or green corrosion.

P206 pin 5 is column 5 and pin 6 is column 6.
Switch 64 is on column 6, although so are 5 other switches. Hence it being odd that only this switch is failing and it not being just a bad switch.

That being said, is that green corrosion? The batter holder and batteries look clean. If it is corrosion, it is just below the batteries and very well could have been battery leakage that was fixed but the connector not caught/replaced. If those pins are corroded you will want to replace them. If they are not the problem now, they will be shortly.

Also I love the electrical tape fix to the GI wires just to the right..

Thanks Patofnaud. .. yea.. not sure the story behind the electric tape... hopefully it's all good connections & in the correct spots.

Thasks so much for your help with this... I'll test it when I get home. I really hope I can contribute even 5% what you & others do here helping with pinball issues someday. I'm going to donate $ to Pinside... that's the least I can do.

Hi guys, just went through some of my inventory and i have 8 or so plug and play shooter lane mods available. All 8 are red i also have a couple blue. Pm me if you want one $25.00 shipped in the US. I use a connector that plugs in under your pf so no hanging wires or alligator clips. I also have several plug and play backpanel mods. These have an inline remote to choose any color you want. These work with most wpc games. Also $25.00

Not available on my website
Chris
www.rockcustompinball.com

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Scamp,

That J206 pin 5 (Column 5) and Pin 6 (Column 6) are trash. Luckily the board connector looks 'ok'. My guess is someone caught a battery leak early, before it did damage to the board but not before it dripped directly down onto that female connector.

I would replace those 2 pins and that housing (FWIW, I'd replace all those IDC pins for crimp style) before doing much else with regard to the switch you are having trouble with. That switch 64 is on Column 6 and on of the effected pins on that connector.

Great Plains Electronics sells all the pins and housings for what you need.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

I also highly suggest you move those batteries OFF the cpu and onto a remote holder to save future troubles.

If it isn't yet - it soon will be - it needs to be replaced. I would recommend replacing the header, connector, and pins.

Are they controlled by the game GI?

Can we see the end result?

Ok, super! thanks for the info. I will be odering those parts this AM. Wish I was closer to you; I could do you some favors.. helping haul your games...

Just listed my T2 with a new lower price. $1300.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-for-sale-t2

I forgot who posted the idea to use 3/4 plastic chrome trim from the auto parts store to dress up the backbox.. I really like it. I need to work on matching up the corners but it came out ok. The chrome look wouldn't look great on many other games but it seems to match well on a T2.20150916_081142.jpg20150916_081154.jpg

Patofnaud... others. I received a new switch today for the T2 right ramp. Will I need to attach that resistor that is on the other switch onto the new one?

The other parts will be here tomorrow... connector.. etc.

Thanks for all your help.20150916_154022.jpg

Yes, that is not a resistor - it is a diode - so look for the stripe and make sure you put it on the new switch the same way!!

A fellow local Pinsider/friend gave me a connector & inserts & it's now 100% working! Thanks everyone.

Woot!!! Congrats!

Great....hope ya bought him a beer or 3.

I think he owes pinside as a whole a beer, or at least a donation to the site.

lol.. I do often.... and would buy you all a beer/root beer anytime your in town.

So now i have not one but two T2's. Plan was to fix them up, but its looking like im not going to have time until after new years (new job and kids soaking up all my free time). If anyone is looking for a package deal for two T2's let me know.

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Has anyone ordered decals from pinballpt?

Im thinking about freshening up the cabs on these starting with the decals.

I miss my T2

On my T2, the J115 looks exactly like yours. There is some really good info on the GI connectors these two places:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
http://www.beerorkid.com/pin/System%20WPC/WPC%20part1/index1.htm

It looks like J115 is 12-pin and J120\121 are 11-pin.

Here are the necessary parts:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=123&pg=1

That's what you get... ...."you don't know what yaa got...till it's gone"............. Joey

I am restoring my T2 with clearcoat and touchup etc.

Just got an idea for a "mod" and would love to hear your guys opinions.
My shooterlane is in such a bad shape that I have to paint it "wood color" but then got an idea.

I have bought this shooterlane cover mod:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/3976/stainless-steel-shooter-lane-cover-for-terminator-2

So I got the idea to paint the shooterlane black and place a blue led strip where it runs. I was thinking that by doing it black it would highlight the stell ball when shooting. What do you guys think? I have seen blue LED stripes on the shooterlane before but not in the combination of the cover and black color.

That sounds like a cool idea Tez. The black may work ok. Do you think that white might reflect the LEDs more?. I'm thinking if you also make the LED strip chase it might really look cool too.

Here's a picture of the led strips I used on all the ramps on my T3, they are only half the width of a reg. strip and they have more leds per length. I got them on ebay, search for "1210 12v (what ever color you want) ( what ever length you want, 30, 60 or 90cm) led strip. Look for a picture of the strips that look like the bottom strip in my picture. They can be cut every 3 leds. They do not have sticky backing, I use Super Glue gel and just use a dab every 3 inch's or so. This is what my T3 looks like.

With no leds on ramps.
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you have a nice T2 paul.

Got an issue where occasional airballs ends up bouncing behind AI lab left ramp sign and getting stuck. No way to get them out but to
open the glass or slam tilt.
Any elegant solutions?

Take off the signs?

They're not providing any info to the player. Not like there's any reference in the code (text or speech) that refers to that as the AI ramp...

Bob, I was just using my T3 as a reference to show what the strips look like.

*edited* oops, my mistake, i'm so used to say t2....

Hi, Just noob here needing some motor advice. I joined the club Saturday, and of course the gun-motor malfunctioned/stopped working during the jack pot mode tonight. I had been noticing a louder moaning noise coming from the cabinet during gun mode, even closed up. I checked the power control board, and all led's are lit except LED3 which is marked normally off. All the fuses appear to be intact. If I try to manually move the cannon it doesn't budge at all. I ran a calibration in menu and got the message bellow. If I switched the motor to on nothing would happen and it would stay stuck in calibration. Is this typical of a faulty gear-box/motor? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Welcome to the club! You have a nice looking T2 there!

You really can't move the gun manually, the gearing is just too high. You should start by dissasembling the gun mechanism, cleaning and lubricating the shaft that the gun pivots on that runs through the playfield. This is notorious for needing cleaning and can actually bind up the gun motor. There are some good threads on here that describe how to dissemble the gun mechanism, just search for them.

If you really need a new motor, prepare yourself as they are pricey...

Sign me up!

Got a machine that needs some work. I've never worked on drop targets before. The drop target won't stay up when the coil pushes it up. It just doesn't catch.

There looks to be a wire, component, diode etc missing (picture attached).

It seems to me there is a lip on the surface of the part that doesn't move, and there's a catch on the portion that does move. and the piece that knocks the drop target down pushes the catch off the lip?? Does that make sense? Do the lips/catch wear down to the point it won't hold? Is there an adjustment? help here needed thanks.

Also working some weird issues, such as a mysterious slam tilt, and during multiball the skeleton lock doesn't always recognize the ball, and in multiball the ball trough kickout continuously fires.

Thoughts?

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Continuation of above post. I now see there is a switch missing the leaf/mechanism etc, and I'm pretty sure a diode.

I'm hoping this was not removed because this was causing problems, but I'm betting it was.

Just got the machine, manual is on the way... Can I get a part number for this switch to replace from somebody?? also, maybe a picture of how it's SUPPOSED to look and what it is supposed to engage.

Again, I'm a drop target newbie... not sure how it's designed.

Thanks... thoughts?

p.s. The coils fire in test mode... this switch is giving no error report.

Things I should check prior to installing new switch to avoid bigger problems?

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You can download a PDF version of the file here: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524 The diagram of the drop target is on page 2-23.

For the target not staying up, you should look at the latch on the target itself and the mate to the latch on the frame of the assembly. Part numbers 03-8033 and 03-8034

The switch is part 5647-12693-31 and there is supposed to be a diode on that switch. I suspect someone cut it off at some point to stop the switch from registering when the drop target stopped staying up...

If that's a pic of the switch under the skull....(switch#77)....there is a long metal arm I don't see on your switch.....but this is not the cause of it not staying up..............Joey

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Ok, replacing the micro switch on the drop target. The diode goes between pin 1 and pin 3... which end does the "banded" end of the diode go? Is this true on all microswitches on this machine? Because every single switch the banded end is on the end without a wire input, with the exception of the ball trough/outkicker switch which has been replaced (poor soldering) and it is backwards from all the other microswitches.

Can somebody check your machine and let me know on the orientation of the diode at the drop target, and the ball trough out kicker micro switches?

Thanks.

Refer to the manual, page 2-36.

See the switch matrix up top?
Find your switch in the multiplication table below it...
I 'think' the skull lock is called "Top Lock" and is switch 55.. According to the table it should have a white-green wire on one end and a green-black on the other.
Confirm that is what you have to make sure we are talking the same switch.
If it is,,,,
Go back to the top matrix, find switch 55, then look at the blow up of a diode just above that multiplication table.. It looks like;

White --|>|- Green

The BAND on the diode is facing the green. And looking that the chart you will see all top row wires are green with a stripe, all left column wires are white with a stripe.

This help?

Yeah, I think so.

Really starting to hate this particular machine. So many issues.

The left side play field "latch" doesn't lay in it's place. It takes a significant amount of tug and firm pressing to get it in place. I see/know of no adjustment for this.

Thoughts?

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Thanks! ordered a paper copy, forgot they were loaded on ipdb!