Saint Paul, MN
Quoted from dbloom:Damn, I was afraid that was the case. Has anyone ever gotten them re-chromed? Any idea how much that costs?
You can buy chrome legs from Marco or Pinballlife. The chrome isn't the best though.
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What about chrome paint? This one has good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7718830-Bright-Metallic-11-Ounce/dp/B000Z8DGXK
Quoted from dbloom:What about chrome paint? This one has good reviews. amazon.com link »
Hi dbloom -
Forget about trying chrome paint with the T2 gun handle it won't hold up.
Mike Chestnut is the man for chrome and often has the gun handles in stock to swap out.
He is "880Turbo" on pinside and his email is [email protected].
I would recommend you try him first.
See this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mike-chestnut-plating-turn-around-time
Quoted from dbloom:What about chrome paint? This one has good reviews. amazon.com link »
I tried it and it's junk. Just buy the chrome legs.
Quoted from Pinterest:Hi dbloom -
Forget about trying chrome paint with the T2 gun handle it won't hold up.
Mike Chestnut is the man for chrome and often has the gun handles in stock to swap out.
He is "880Turbo" on pinside and his email is [email protected].
I would recommend you try him first.
See this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mike-chestnut-plating-turn-around-time
Yup those are the best, show quality chrome but you'll pay for it though.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yup those are the best, show quality chrome but you'll pay for it though.
Actually - his prices are quite reasonable - check him out.
Quoted from Pinterest:Actually - his prices are quite reasonable - check him out.
Yes they are for show quality. But $70 for 4 standard chrome legs is a good price. Just like anything pinball related it all boils down to what quality you want and how much you want to spend.
Just curious if anyone has used coin takers led kit? #23 on the map shows where it supposed to be the return lane with a 555 cool but on the games it's a clear lite hurry up insert .... And #24 says lite video mode which on the map says right return lane. I'm confused.
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from dbloom:Damn, I was afraid that was the case. Has anyone ever gotten them re-chromed? Any idea how much that costs?
Why would you invest the money in rechroming or buying new Chrome legs if you are just selling anyways? Your sale price is good, it should move without you doing anything extra. Don't sweat it.
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Why would you invest the money in rechroming or buying new Chrome legs if you are just selling anyways? Your sale price is good, it should move without you doing anything extra. Don't sweat it.
That's what I thought too but it is his game. 
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Why would you invest the money in rechroming or buying new Chrome legs if you are just selling anyways? Your sale price is good, it should move without you doing anything extra. Don't sweat it.
Well, because I've had a change of heart and took the ad down. 
Thinking about selling the pin actually had me missing it prematurely and got me re-motivated to work on it. Weird, I know... 
Quoted from scampcamp:Where should the lights go for the "Hotdog" thanks
Underneath the hot dog? I feel like maybe I'm missing something...could you be more specific?
Brugge
Quoted from scampcamp:I put in new frosted LED's behind some targets (pictured) and when playing lights in this are pretty blinding & in your face. Do people put in some type of diffuser? Thanks
2015-09-07_20.57.48.jpg
You could try cutting a piece of plastic milk jug and standing it up back there. I've done it before on my HS2 and it works great.
I had the same complaint. I switched them out with frosted red leds and it's much easier on the eyes.
Those are great ideas. Thanks. I was going to try & leave the LEDS under the pf & have the light shoot up but I like the frosted idea better.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:I switched them out with frosted red leds and it's much easier on the eyes.
I did the same thing - I used the 1-LED red Ablaze frosted from PBL. It's a tricky spot because the player can directly see the bulbs. I had a similar situation on a different pin and I ended up taking a permanent marker and blacking out the side of the bulb that faces the player. I was a quick and easy fix for that situation.
Quoted from scampcamp:I see my T2 main cabinet speaker has some holes. Marco is out of stock. Anybody else sell stock speakers for this? Thanks
Just take it out and slide a powered sub under the game. That's what I did.
Don't remember if that game is a 4ohm or 8ohm...
The 4ohm I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066BO2QK
The 8ohm I use: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-8-Classic-Woofer/dp/B0002KRBH8
Quoted from MustangPaul:Just take it out and slide a powered sub under the game. That's what I did.
I think I have a extra powered sub around here. Could you explain how I'd go about hooking it up? My T2 has a 8 ohm speaker in the main cabinet. Thanks MustangPaul
Just run the + wire from the game to the + terminal on the sub and the - wire from the game to the - terminal of the sub. It's just like hooking up a normal audio speaker. But remember the sub has to be a powered sub.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate you're help.
Would you know which part number this switch would be? I don't have the manual here at work & I wanted to order from Marco. Thanks again!
Thanks BreakingDad! You may want to get your finger checked out.... I think somebody put it in a blender. 
...............Joey
Quoted from Patofnaud:Does it always show that? Or just when you manually activate it?
If always, then your switch is broke 'stuck'.
If only when you activate it manually, then switch is fine.
^ this before you go metering, ordering or replacing the switch.
Quoted from scampcamp:It always shows that when in test mode
Then you either have a bad switch or a short.
NOW, is when you would take a meter and test the switch. One trick prior to testing or replacing is to remove the wires from the switch and see if it still reports the switch stuck, if not then your switch is stuck shut or the 1n4004 diode is shorted. If it still reports that switch with the wires removed then your looking at either a problem in the switch matrix or a shorted wire under the playfield.
Patofnaud... I undid the wires from the switch & it still shows the same error. Now.. do I just follow the wires & look for bad connections?
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