Nope, i bought it quite a while ago, at the beginning of restoration ( maybe two years ).

Check out the marks from inserts. Those marks are BELOW the surface, due to contact with playfield.

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Just curious. Do you know if it is easy to polish smooth again?

No way. I tried already.
The material they use is Makrolon, not Mylar.
Same material -different thickness - is used to create repro`s plastics for pinball.
That garbage is just a thin piece of plastic, nothing else.

Here is a picture with one of the pinball i use. No way to have scratches from this!

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Hmm I just ordered one for my F-14. I hope I don't have these type of results. Did you wax the protector? I know a lot of people do.

No wax - the scratches appear few minutes after i use it and , as i said, ON THE BACK of the "protector".
I have a slight impression that the pinball is faster without that crappy plastic.

I put one of these rubylith filters on my T2 DMD and think it looks great and under $5 shipped.
ebay.com link: Rubylith 1 Sheet 4 1 2 x 14 1 2 Pinball Machine Red DMD Filter

before
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after
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I completely disagree with this. I have one for T2 plus a lot of my other games and it is super clear and nice looking still. It still looks like a nice clear coat job after a year of playing on it. So you must have received a bad one, put it on a dirty playfield, used scratched/dented balls on it or something else, because all of mine look perfect.

The one that i received was never clear, the playfield was crystal clean and waxed since it was restored as a High End machine. It is obvious that you did not bother to follow the story of restoration.
If you make a small effort and read a little bit on the top and check the -big-picture with the pinball i used, you will realize that your comment is at least inappropriate, if not insulting ( i WILL NOT say stupid).
I did not post those pictures for you to come forward and tell me how great is yours. It`s not relevant at all for this discussion.It will be relevant if you mention when, from where you bought it, how much you paid.
It is just a warning for whoever will buy something like this, to be careful and especially WELL INFORMED.
I strongly believe that this is the purpose of this forum, to share experience and information. Negative experience is more than welcome to be shared, it can prevent other people for doing same mistakes.

P.S. I "like" your logic: mine is perfect, therefore yours cannot be different, it`s your fault!

I dont know if this is the right place but ill give it a try:
For whoever wants some 20+ used plastics, i will give them for 10 USD + postal charges.
Most of them have scratches or bended because of the heat. Originals.
ONLY for Europe. I do not send to Romania.

SOLD!

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PM

Hey now relax, no reason to get upset. I have many of these, not just one and they are holding up quite well. This is a public forum so if you come on here ranting about a product I think is a good, well made product, I then have the right to give the public my experience with the product as well. There is even an entire thread about this product and the reviews on it are pretty good. I think you might be one of the only people I've seen complain about it?

Hey guys has anyone ever used Comet LEDs in their T2? The used to offer a sample pack, but it is no longer available: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/sample.htm

Does anyone have suggestions of specific bulbs to try on my T2. I would prefer to order from Comit, but I honestly have no idea what bulb would function best in inserts and GI.

I don't know if you're into kits but if you are this one is amazing! It really lights up a T2 with the flipper light strip, rear light strip and extra spots.

http://pinballbulbs.com/products/terminator-2-pinball-ultimate-led-lighting-kit

http://pinballbulbs.com/sites/default/files/Terminator2_0.jpg

Im relaxed, dont worry about that.
Your statement "I have many of these" does not bring any light in this matter.
When you bought them, what company-online site you used, how much it costs, are made of what material, Makrolon or Mylar?
Unless you bring this info to surface, we have only "hot air", a pointless exchange of words.
This is your second post in this discussion, still i cannot find any technical details-pictures, except "your opinion"

Yes, you have the right to defend whatever you want, even to disagree with my comment. But do not jump to conclusions based on assumptions.
A nice day to you.

I have only been using Comet for a while now. They are awesome and I have NEVER had a problem with bulbs. I did my T2.

I used the supreme 4 SMD non-ghosting in the inserts matched to the color of the insert. (I like them bright)
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528-ng.htm

and for the GI and the backglass I used the single LED frosted and domed.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8mm-led.htm

They are so inexpensive, I usually buy the 25 pack if possible. Even if I only use 10-15.

A machine usually runs $100

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Are all your GI blue?

I still need ideas to get my eye lights to stay in. The left side bulb always pops out after about a game or two, even with hot glue dabbed inside the socket.

My skull does move a bit, its lose some how on the left side, so thats probably my main issue, but it doesnt bother me enough to tear that whole pain in the ass area apart again.

Thanks for the reply. I want to buy a few bulbs to see what works the best, so this is a big help. I want to avoid the other package deals offered by other websites. The prices are ridiculous when you buy their kits.

Is it necessary to match the insert bulb colours? Or, will they look stupid without the coloured bulbs.

Chitown, I had the same problem with the PBL eye mod. I told them what was happening and they sent a new one. Since then they have yet to fall out.

Mine fall out no matter what LED is in there...happened with the coin takers I had before the eye mod. Thanks though.

In applications like this I use a small blob of earthquake putty aka museum putty, making sure the blob overlaps the bulb base and the socket.

That was the only thing that reliably held in the bulbs on the sides of the electric chair in TAF.

RM

wow, ok. thanks!

edit: this, ya?

http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1

For the most part. I think I have a few frosted cool whites up around the pop bumpers someplace where it seemed a little dark.

I use all comet LEDs in my T2 and they work great. I color matched most of the inserts and used cool white for the the GI. You can save money by using standard LEDs if you just install the ghost patched ROM. This way you don't have to pay extra for the non-ghosting LEDs, and with the ROM patch you experience zero ghosting or flicker. They look great, and I highly recommend Comet due to their great quality and superior customer service.

I don't suppose you have a picture you can post, so I can compare with the blue leds.

I ordered one of these tonight. Hoping for good results

That's it.

It's super-strength version of the stuff your grade school teacher stuck things to the wall with.

It's removable, and sticks well to smooth plastic, which silicone hot glue does not. Stays soft forever.

RM

Another lot of garbage, if somebody`s interested.
Apron 20$, Ramp with decal 20$, Coin Door Mod 25$ ( that`s new and it costs ~65$). Of course, postal charges should be added on top of that price.
Coin door cover mod looks like crap - in my opinion. Also, the material does not look like it was advertised so i was planing to throw it in the garbage but i`ll give it a try here.

EUROPE ONLY, i DO NOT send to Romania.

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I'd love the coin door cover....will you ship to US.....???.......Joey

I am in the club

Have a problem with my T2 though which I do hope will be a minor one. The big skull doesn´t have any red lamps resembling the eyes. Upon removing the skull I see the whole skull is filled from the back with some kind of foam !! Probably to strenghten the inside back in the Days... I have now removed the foam grinding it away with my Dremmel tool.

I found that the bracket that should hold the lamps is missing. The Eyes have been painted from the outside on the foam with a red marker.. Not a very good job.

Can I get the bracket somewhere ? Is there a substitute MOD with nicer LED lamps available ?

Any hints, tips to go about this is highly appreciated.
Matt in Sweden

_{Post edited by Flippermatt: misspelling}

Wasn't there someone offering a complete T2 Skull and Lamp assembly? A high-quality one that was all-metal or something?

Bueller?

RussMyers

There a service bulletin about having packing foam in the skull. It stops more than one ball getting stuck inside the skull. I used black foam rubber. I can't remember the specific measurements, but it is necessary in my game.

That foam suppose to be there, according to Service Bulletin Sb33 issued September `91.
It was installed in order to avoid a POSSIBLE BALL HANG-UP BEHIND SKULL.
Bulb caps for eyes are easy to find (ex. http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/bulb-cap-red-p-3356.html?language=english)
A bracket is easy to manufacture, unless you`re planning to buy a new skull.
I attached a picture of my old skull (well, not really mine) in order to see all details.
Hopefully, it will help

Edit: Size of foam should be 2-1/4' (SQUARE)

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sb33-1.gif

Thank you very much for the info.. The skull that I have had foam totally packed from top to bottom. Looked like a slopy 2min job. I see here the bracket rests ontop. I had to rid it anyway as I plan to completley repaint the skull with airbrush and shoot Alclad II chrome. The bracket can be DIY I guess. Will have a check at Marco and Planetary to see if they can help.

If anyone could think of the guy that made they Eye LED MODs and post, that would be very nice.

Thanks
Matt

maybe this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-tskull-aluminum-eye-mod-kits-for-sale

Apron decals. New. I used only cannon decal.
5$ + postal charges.
Europe only. I DO NOT send to Romania.

SOLD.

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I Would like the apron
(Denmark)

Ok. Send me details. PM.

Here is the bracket if you don't feel like making one. You still need a couple 555 sockets to rivet or screw to this bracket. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10280

hi guys just doing up my 1st t2 my question is --- on back of start button what holds the assembly to the button

Maybe this picture will help you.

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The lamp and switch assembly (the white part in loscanones's picture) attaches with a couple latches to the button assembly (the black part). Gently pulling and rocking it back and forth will pull it off.

Finally got my original 1991 T2 poster up before my super bowl party. Interesting how to tell it is an original single sheet. It is printed on both sides. and one side was backwards.

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Oooo, I kinda like those black legs and door.

Thanks. I can't take credit, the previous owner had them done.

thx for the replies and pics Unfortunately my assembly appears to differ and the white assembly does not have any latches. This means that the white section wont attach and movesIMG_0177[1].JPGIMG_0178[1].JPGIMG_0176[1].JPG

I have a slight impression that you have some broken plastic there ( hard to say by looking at those pictures)
Maybe a new 5$ assembly will solve the problem.

Push the 2 small white tabs that are right up next to the black cylinder and pull.