yep, get them from Starship...which were originally made from James at Pinball, INC. Top quality as all his ramps and other products were.
yep, get them from Starship...which were originally made from James at Pinball, INC. Top quality as all his ramps and other products were.
Quoted from PinStef:Got the same one from ministry of pinball. The picture shown on their website was of the original ship not the one you get. Its not bad but the engines aren't that great with the dots sharpied on them. Does anybody know where to get a better version of the ship? Seems like all vendors carry the same product.
Yep, if I remember correctly, the engines were the biggest downfall. I can't tell from that picture above if that's exactly what the one I got looked liked, but I returned the one I got without question.
I am pretty sure I bought my skull and hunter plastics from Mr. Pinball in Australia. The skull and hunter were both nice. Not like like that junky one from Marco.
I have spent the last two days getting caught up on my Pinside reading, and I am really loving all of Vid's help posts. I was wondering is there a procedure to bullet proof the WPC boards in the T2? Should I be planning on replacing the caps on any of the boards. After two years, I plan to get my T2 finished this year.
Never change a running system. There is no need to "repair" something that's working and there is always a chance to damage the board no matter how good/carefully you are.
Quoted from GL_Pinguy:I have spent the last two days getting caught up on my Pinside reading, and I am really loving all of Vid's help posts. I was wondering is there a procedure to bullet proof the WPC boards in the T2? Should I be planning on replacing the caps on any of the boards. After two years, I plan to get my T2 finished this year.
I agree with Endprodukt, do not just shotgun-replace components in a well-running system.
However, for WPC in general and T2 in particular:
1. The GI circuits are notoriously prone to burning up. Closely inspect J115 J120 J121 for discolored, cooked connectors and headers. If needed, best practice is to re-pin all 3 connectors with .156 trifurcon molex pins and connectors and pull the power driver board and replace the headers with good .156 header pins.
2. Get the alkaline AA batteries OFF the MPU board.
Replace alkaline AA batteries with AA lithium batteries (good)
Use a remote battery holder with AA lithium batteries (better)
Get rid of batteries entirely and go with an NVRAM solution, like from Lockwhenlit.com (best, but requires very delicate soldering and board-fu)
3. (maybe) Replace the grey ribbon data cables with new ones. Not expensive, low-risk, and can head issues off at the pass. May or may not be worth the effort, but WPC ribbon cables can be gotten at GPE. Flaky data cables can cause really weird behavior.
That's my 0.02.
RM
Thank you very much for the replies. The plugs have already been replaced, they were burnt when I bought the game. The remote battery holder is on the to do list. I will add the ribbon cables to my shopping cart at Great Plains.
Happy New Years.
I know I have seen recommendations on pinside before in regards to Andy at judge-dreads-pinball (on ebay), but it is worth mentioning again. I have ordered two T2 mods from Judge Dreads Pinball fairly recently and in both cases, the shipping was very fast (faster than most US vendors), and Andy has always responded very quickly to emails. On top of that, with my last purchase, he went above and beyond my expectations to work with me and provide a solution when I made a mistake installing the mod.
Anyway I just wanted to let everyone know if you are looking for mods for your T2 or other machines, I would never hesitate to order from Andy.
Quoted from tigerpin:I know I have seen recommendations on pinside before in regards to Andy at judge-dreads-pinball (on ebay), but it is worth mentioning again. I have ordered two T2 mods from Judge Dreads Pinball fairly recently and in both cases, the shipping was very fast (faster than most US vendors), and Andy has always responded very quickly to emails. On top of that, with my last purchase, he went above and beyond my expectations to work with me and provide a solution when I made a mistake installing the mod.
Anyway I just wanted to let everyone know if you are looking for mods for your T2 or other machines, I would never hesitate to order from Andy.
Just ordered the Hunter ship mod. I have high hopes for it.
I prefer the pinbits hunter ship mod. Less than half the price and isn't too overpowering. It looks great!
I had not been in this forum for a little while and just watched the video with the original T2 music playing on the Pinsound board. Man that sounds awesome! Always wished there was a way to play the real music like that! I just wish that you could turn on the original Arnold voice with the theme music playing. As good an impersonator as that is, I can tell its not him. Otherwise, I might have been all over this!
Quoted from AndHart120:I had not been in this forum for a little while and just watched the video with the original T2 music playing on the Pinsound board. Man that sounds awesome! Always wished there was a way to play the real music like that! I just wish that you could turn on the original Arnold voice with the theme music playing. As good an impersonator as that is, I can tell its not him. Otherwise, I might have been all over this!
You can do this, all of the files are customizable with the Pinsound board. Just copy over the stock voice tracks with the original soundtrack background music.
Yes. You can modify everything as you wish. Using the stock voice is no problem. It will just sound really really bad in comparison quality wise. It will take you one minute to do!
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:I prefer the pinbits hunter ship mod. Less than half the price and isn't too overpowering. It looks great!
Me too. I dont really get what dredd thinks his does that pinbits doesnt.
I'm actually kind of surprised no one edited or made new sound chips to include the main theme. Seems like a mod someone would have made by now.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Me too. I dont really get what dredd thinks his does that pinbits doesnt.
Andy version has a micro chip to sequence the light and a separate input you can tie to any bulb (like the skull lock) to make the sequencing stop and the engines flash. I 'thought' pinbits was just flashing based on 1 input.
Quoted from Patofnaud:Andy version has a micro chip to sequence the light and a separate input you can tie to any bulb (like the skull lock) to make the sequencing stop and the engines flash. I 'thought' pinbits was just flashing based on 1 input.
Ahhh....ok. Not anything worth all that extra money in my opinion, but to each their own!
True. True.
I like it, I worked with Andy directly and he was able to bundle the HK ship mod and the Skull ramp LED mod to save me shipping. Nice chap.
Hi everyone! We have a T2 we bought broken at a good price. We got the chips needed to fix it installed, and it booted up its first game in over a year and a half....
...and we noticed that the cannon is hot. It can't find home, so the ball got stuck on it during the first ramp shot, and just bounced there, sparking.
Is it normal for that cannon to be hot all the time?
Thanks!
Quoted from Patofnaud:Andy version has a micro chip to sequence the light and a separate input you can tie to any bulb (like the skull lock) to make the sequencing stop and the engines flash. I 'thought' pinbits was just flashing based on 1 input.
So does pinbits. It has a microcontroller which has a controlled flashing pattern, and is also hooked into the flasher circuit to register when a direct hit is achieved.
Quoted from tonyoz:I have finally finished putting my T2 back together after a few years. Everything seems to be working properly except the security levels are not advancing with alternate ramp shots. Have I just got some plugs in wrong or could there be some other issue?
Do the security level inserts work otherwise in attract mode? Both ball switches working on both ramps?
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Do the security level inserts work otherwise in attract mode? Both ball switches working on both ramps?
Thanks.
Found this, might be my problem, will have a look tonight.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-ramp-questionproblem
Hi,
I have LED's under the playfield and thinks that it is time to change the GI to LED. Many of the pictures in here looks great! I like the "cold/metallic" look som members have with the GI lightning.
But are people using blue or cold white or a combination of both? Would love to see a image of your playfield with LED GI lightning and what type of LED's you have used?
New T2 I am finishing up. I am not happy with the gi lighting so this is coming back apart. I did make a new backlit apron which I think came out pretty good. All mods made by me, debating adding my interactive cannon mod which can be seen on my youtube. The alternate translight really made this thing look the way I wanted. 80% complete but here is a pic.
20150111_201246.jpg 20150111_201452.jpgQuoted from Rock914:New T2 I am finishing up. I am not happy with the gi lighting so this is coming back apart. I did make a new backlit apron which I think came out pretty good. All mods made by me, debating adding my interactive cannon mod which can be seen on my youtube. The alternate translight really made this thing look the way I wanted. 80% complete but here is a pic.
20150111_201246.jpg 182 KB
20150111_201452.jpg 207 KB
Looks good, are you using White or Blue GI or a mix?
I hope more will join with image end LED's used.
Quoted from joe2012:hi rock, looks great!! what leds did you use? joe
I use my own brand of led's and I make some for specific uses. I am not happy with any flashers on the market so I make my own, a few of them are pictured. I am very big on lighting so it needs to be right for me. The machine I have pictured looks nice but the gi has bright spots that distract while playing so I need to tone it down a bit. I do sell some of my leds but not all. Some things I keep for myself and a few friends.
20150113_073238.jpgQuoted from Chitownpinball:Dude that translate is pretty sweet. Custom you or some one else?
Quoted from spfxted:Isn't someone working on this?
Are you referring to what I said?
Quoted from Rock914:Made by an underground seller. I can get them in quantity if others are interested.
Also I typically post more pics on my Facebook htt//m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100007435056206 add me as a friend if you want to see more of the things I do.
Cool, I'm very anti face book, but thanks.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Cool, I'm very anti face book, but thanks.
I am same way....wish I could see more. I am interested in the alternate translite....PM me if you make a run.
None of the alternate translites are as good as the original IMO. Why would you want to replace that beautiful artwork???
Not sure what Rock means by "underground seller" but the alternate translites are available here: http://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/d1112_Translite_Translites_Williams_Flipperkast_pinball.html
Quoted from tezting:Could more share there playfield ligtning and write what colors they have used?
I jusdt have the coin taker kit. Look back to find my pics.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:None of the alternate translites are as good as the original IMO. Why would you want to replace that beautiful artwork???
I agree that the original is best, but where can a guy find an original translite replacement for one that has seen its better days?
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:I agree that the original is best, but where can a guy find an original translite replacement for one that has seen its better days?
This I would like to know too
There are currently no reproduction original translites available unless you find somebody sitting on old stock.
Trim - chrome metal playfield glass installed.
I found a German supplier, a very good price (~22$) and good quality.
However, the holes for screws did not match the original. This did not bother me since the cabinet was restored and old holes covered.
Do not buy this!
I`m talking about playfield protector "very good quality".
It costs me about 130$ and today i removed it with a pair of scissors and throw it in the garbage.
The material was visibly degrading after few hours of playing - testing the machine.
As you can see in the pictures, the surface is badly scratched and the material is not transparent anymore.
Playfield looks now much better without it.
I do not recommend it - unless you feel happy to throw your money.
1001-Terminator-2.jpg _MG_5503.JPG _MG_5514.JPG _MG_5515.JPG _MG_5493.JPGQuoted from snakesnsparklers:Not sure what Rock means by "underground seller" but the alternate translites are available here:
Doesn't seem very underground
Quoted from loscanones:Do not buy this!
I`m talking about playfield protector "very good quality".
It costs me about 130$ and today i removed it with a pair of scissors and throw it in the garbage.
The material was visibly degrading after few hours of playing - testing the machine.
As you can see in the pictures, the surface is badly scratched and the material is not transparent anymore.
Playfield looks now much better without it.
I do not recommend it - unless you feel happy to throw your money.1001-Terminator-2.jpg 65 KB
_MG_5503.JPG 72 KB
_MG_5514.JPG 48 KB
_MG_5515.JPG 66 KB
_MG_5493.JPG 281 KB
Wow I am shocked. Was thinking about getting one for another game. Are you pinballs new? I thought it was a very hard material that was used..
Quoted from tezting:Wow I am shocked. Was thinking about getting one for another game. Are you pinballs new? I thought it was a very hard material that was used..
Yep, brand new balls, highly polished. That kind of damage occur after let`s say 10 hours of testing-playing.
The material of that "protector" is VERY hard and thick - i destroyed a pair of scissors in order to cut it - but its scratching very fast on the top AND also on the surface that had contact with playfield ( don
t ask me how that happened, because is not moving at all)
You`re shocked? Imagine me! I paid 130$ for that crap!
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