(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

7 years ago



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There are 7480 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 150.
#1901 5 years ago

I have heard a few horror stories from pinsiders that have purchased the Chrome package. I would love to upgrade mine as well but I don't think its worth the risk.

#1902 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Pictures with the cabinet, in low light, poor quality.
Holes are not trimmed yet.

AHHHH Pincabs = FAIL. Get those off ASAP, hopefully you didnt crank them down. Use these instead if there no marks made from Pincabs.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

#1903 5 years ago
Quoted from turbo20lbs:

AHHHH Pincabs = FAIL. Get those off ASAP, hopefully you didnt crank them down. Use these instead if there no marks made from Pincabs.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Relax, those horrible plastics + legs are there only temporary.Those legs are NEW but looks like garbage. I have to chrome the old ones and this will take time. I have to work with the cabinet, so i use those as a temporary solution.
Thanks for the link, do you have a picture with those ones, installed?

Any idea if i can find them somewhere in Europe? ( Link?)

-1
#1904 5 years ago

Hi All,

I am interested in your feedback - your vote. Are these blue colored LED mods that go on the flippers and flash when the flipper is used "coolish or foolish"? PM me if any questions. Sorry the video quality is not great. Youtube link enclosed.

#1905 5 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Hi All,
I am interested in your feedback - your vote. Are these blue colored LED mods that go on the flippers and flash when the flipper is used "coolish or foolish"? PM me if any questions. Sorry the video quality is not great. Youtube link enclosed.
» YouTube video

Foolish. Sorry. Not for me.

#1906 5 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Hi All,
I am interested in your feedback - your vote. Are these blue colored LED mods that go on the flippers and flash when the flipper is used "coolish or foolish"? PM me if any questions. Sorry the video quality is not great. Youtube link enclosed.
» YouTube video

It appears your chaseloop lights are screwed into your playfield backwards. The 5 Million is flashing when it should be the 250k at the bottom.

As for flipper falsher, its a cool idea just looks a little bulky on top. If they could be mounted inside the flipper, that might prove to be a great effect.

#1907 5 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Hi All,
I am interested in your feedback - your vote. Are these blue colored LED mods that go on the flippers and flash when the flipper is used "coolish or foolish"? PM me if any questions. Sorry the video quality is not great. Youtube link enclosed.
» YouTube video

Looks horrible.
There is a tendency to transform pinball machines in a Christmas tree by adding LED`s everywhere.

#1908 5 years ago

Some new pictures, in natural light.
Start button needs a round chromed metal frame. No matter how careful i cut the decal, it looks bad. Work in progress.

IMG_2821.JPG IMG_2824.JPG IMG_2822.JPG
#1909 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Some new pictures, in natural light.
Start button needs a round chromed metal frame. No matter how careful i cut the decal, it looks bad. Work in progress.

IMG_2824.JPG 153 KB

IMG_2822.JPG 149 KB

IMG_2821.JPG 130 KB

Gonna be a beauty when it's done...

Mike

#1910 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Relax, those horrible plastics + legs are there only temporary.Those legs are NEW but looks like garbage. I have to chrome the old ones and this will take time. I have to work with the cabinet, so i use those as a temporary solution.
Thanks for the link, do you have a picture with those ones, installed?
Any idea if i can find them somewhere in Europe? ( Link?)

Even if temporary it is horrible idea. Trust me you need to get those pincabs off ASAP or you risk bubbling of decal or possibly leaving a mark made by pincab. You need the stern style ones I linked earlier with the decal cut around them.

#1911 5 years ago
Quoted from turbo20lbs:

Even if temporary it is horrible idea. Trust me you need to get those pincabs off ASAP or you risk bubbling of decal or possibly leaving a mark made by pincab. You need the stern style ones I linked earlier with the decal cut around them.

Is this true only on newly decaled cabs? Or are they a bad idea on all games?

Mike

#1912 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

Is this true only on newly decaled cabs? Or are they a bad idea on all games?
Mike

It leaves a big indentation that will be there forever. If you go with another system (stealth or felt protectors) it will show because that damaged area is now uncovered.

#1913 5 years ago

Diamond plate ready to go for those who have PM'ed me. Here is what it looks like let me know if you still want it.

I will add this to my website when I have more time to make it.

Thanks,
Rock
www.rockcustompinball.com

DSCN2169.JPG

#1914 5 years ago
Quoted from turbo20lbs:

Even if temporary it is horrible idea. Trust me you need to get those pincabs off ASAP or you risk bubbling of decal or possibly leaving a mark made by pincab. You need the stern style ones I linked earlier with the decal cut around them.

Right, i took your advice and order the metal pincabs. Do i have to trim the decals around?
I already check my temporary pincabs, there are no marks on the decal, i just added some soft stuff in between, to over protect it. The bolts are not tight so no worries yet. However, the metal protectors will arrive in few days.

#1915 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Right, i took your advice and order the metal pincabs. Do i have to trim the decals around?
I already check my temporary pincabs, there are no marks on the decal, i just added some soft stuff in between, to over protect it. The bolts are not tight so no worries yet. However, the metal protectors will arrive in few days.

Ok good that should help until you get the metal spacers. I would cut just around the metal spacer. If you look at all the new Stern games since AC/DC you will see how they look. The Sterns are cut outside the protectors quite a bit. I don't think you have to cut that far around the spacer, but at least cut lines right where the spacer begins. This will insure no wrinkling/bubbling will ever start.

#1916 5 years ago

Newbie T2 owner here, looking for advice.

I have a machine that languished for years at our office, and finally had it restored a couple of years ago by a local Pinside member. In reading all these posts, I'd definitely be interested in switching the machine over to LEDs for the decreased power usage, lower heat, and better appearance.

So I would appreciate some help on these questions:

1. I have seen some posts that reference the CoinTaker kit....looking at their website, it will be $243 plus another $20 for the premium non-ghosting LED's. A few other websites have their kits for about $40-$60 less. Is Cointaker worth the upcharge?

2. Do these kits generally replace the lights in the backbox as well?

3. Are all the lights reasonable easy to get to, and replacement doesn't require soldering?

4. Anyone wish they had done something differently when switching to LED's?

Thanks in advance!!

#1917 5 years ago
Quoted from jordanfsl:

Newbie T2 owner here, looking for advice.
I have a machine that languished for years at our office, and finally had it restored a couple of years ago by a local Pinside member. In reading all these posts, I'd definitely be interested in switching the machine over to LEDs for the decreased power usage, lower heat, and better appearance.
So I would appreciate some help on these questions:
1. I have seen some posts that reference the CoinTaker kit....looking at their website, it will be $243 plus another $20 for the premium non-ghosting LED's. A few other websites have their kits for about $40-$60 less. Is Cointaker worth the upcharge?
2. Do these kits generally replace the lights in the backbox as well?
3. Are all the lights reasonable easy to get to, and replacement doesn't require soldering?
4. Anyone wish they had done something differently when switching to LED's?
Thanks in advance!!

1. Up charge for kit depends. Do you want your t2 to look cookie cutter or unique, do you wanna dress it with flare of your own or not. Also, do you have the time to sit there and pick out each light and it's location and take a guess what it will look like and shop the right led? Are you willing to look at how other people "pimped" their t2 and mix and match? If not, and you are on a budget, buy bright cool white frosteds in bulk from pinball bulbs or pinball life or someone like that. Most people color match the inserts and sectionally color the general illumination (top side of lighting). Cool blue does very well on t2 as does red as far as colors for GI. Some people try to color match GI under the plastics too. It's all up to you, it will take time either way, and yes you are paying a sorry ass markup and no, they don't not install themselves - so you might as well color it out to your liking.
2. Full kits "should" include the back box lighting, but I would customize that as well. There are some seriously badass custom lit back glasses out there for t2. Red LEDs for t800 eyes and blinking LEDs for the hunter ships. I find the warm whites for Arnies face area in the middle to be the best. Check every page of this members club thread for kind of the genesis of where people have taken t2 led modding.
3. It's a learning experience. Have the machine off. Most GI on t2 is hard top get topside and you have to charge them from the bottom. The pop bumpers are the easiest. Go bright red, blue or color changers. No due soldering should be necessary unless you have a bad lamp receptacle which depends on the climate conditions the machine has seen.
4. Once you go LED, you never go back homie. Welcome to the club and the sickness. You are gonna blow more money than you anticipated, and yes in the end, there is satisfaction and reward. My first thing is.. Make sure your game is setup right, all coils fire, replace the flipper assemblies entirely if you are a novice. Level the machine. Check for switch errors in the test menus. Make the game play right first. Then pimp Arnies out with toys, mods and LEDs. Give him a nice mothers carnauba wax job, fresh balls, and terminate some scumbag machines!

#1918 5 years ago

I would go with Comet Pinball LEDs. They are inexpensive super bright and the owner is a great guy to deal with. I usually spend $100 or less per machine. (without #89 flashers they are usually a few bucks a piece)

I use these non-ghosting in all my inserts. 89 cents
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

I color match the bulb color to the insert color. He gives price breaks if you buy a bag of 25 of any color.

For the GI I use frosted retro look bulbs. 45 cents
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/25-pack-1retroled.htm

I did my T2 in mostly blue and red so I did the 25 packs and added to it.
IMG_20131207_193959_520.jpg

I used Comet LEDs in my cannon flashers and in my Hunter mod. (Hunter ship is flashing red in picture. It isn't always this bright)
IMG_20131231_104228_827.jpg

#1919 5 years ago

Yeah, if you don't want to do it all at once you can replace a few at a time. I did it with Scared Stiff and after about a year, I'm almost all LED's...

#1920 5 years ago

For example here is my order with Comet when I ordered for my T2. I ordered 4 packs of 25 so I had a bunch left over. And I use white non-ghosting in the yellow / orange inserts. They look better to me than yellow bulbs.

There are also some bulbs in this order that I tried and didn't use at all like the 15 frosted reds. I like to try a couple of different layouts and see what I like better. I also order some red #89s. Anyway. This is just an example of an order.
2014-02-11 13_58_48-Comet Pinball LED Bulbs.jpg

#1921 5 years ago

loscanones-

Great that you got your Pincab protectors off with no damage. After reading this thread, I checked my Addams Family that I spent months restoring- an those Pincabs didn't do anything but create some nice wrinkles in my decals. And unfortunately. once the damage is done, you need to keep them on there.

I am unsure why they call them "Protectors," because they do not.

#1922 5 years ago

Got my Diamond Plate installed. It's a must to remove the PF for sure. But other than that not a tough job to do. I like the look!

Mike20140210_184753.jpg20140210_190801.jpg20140210_190742.jpg

#1923 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

Got my Diamond Plate installed. It's a must to remove the PF for sure. But other than that not a tough job to do. I like the look!
Mike

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Very nice buddy. Looks great, if you have mirror blades you may find you like these better they don't seem to scratch up as bad. Then again I am under the hood a lot.

#1924 5 years ago

Had mine for a while. They do hold up better than regular mirror blades. I have gold blades on my LOTR. A few airballs have left their mark for sure.

IMG_9051.JPG
#1925 5 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Very nice buddy. Looks great, if you have mirror blades you may find you like these better they don't seem to scratch up as bad. Then again I am under the hood a lot.

Yea, I've always been afraid to install actual blades for that reason. These seem like they'd hide small scratches better. Thanks for the input Rock.

Mike

#1926 5 years ago

Wow!...looks great!!

#1927 5 years ago

That does look really good.

#1928 5 years ago

How do you take the skull off without damaging it? It's held together by metal posts and it doesn't look like they screw off.

#1929 5 years ago
Quoted from cwell:

How do you take the skull off without damaging it? It's held together by metal posts and it doesn't look like they screw off.

Before you do anything, disconnect the skulls lights on the underside of the playfield. On the left side of the skull there is a clear piece of plastic in an L shape. Remove that and there are two brackets that hold the Skull to the plastic pieces on either side and you can unbolt them from the top. Then the skull should simply lift away.

#1930 5 years ago
Quoted from cwell:

How do you take the skull off without damaging it? It's held together by metal posts and it doesn't look like they screw off.

On ours at work, you just peel back the duck tape and hot glue that is kinda holding it upright.

#1931 5 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

On ours at work, you just peel back the duck tape and hot glue that is kinda holding it upright.

LOL!

#1932 5 years ago

thats what mine may be like after i take it apart.

#1933 5 years ago
Quoted from DudeMcAwesome:

Before you do anything, disconnect the skulls lights on the underside of the playfield. On the left side of the skull there is a clear piece of plastic in an L shape. Remove that and there are two brackets that hold the Skull to the plastic pieces on either side and you can unbolt them from the top. Then the skull should simply lift away.

So what I'm actually trying to do is replace the skull all together. The one I have is some cheap knockoff so I purchased the chrome one to replace it. The L brackets are attached to the plastic with posts. How do I remove those?

Thanks.

#1934 5 years ago
Quoted from cwell:

So what I'm actually trying to do is replace the skull all together. The one I have is some cheap knockoff so I purchased the chrome one to replace it. The L brackets are attached to the plastic with posts. How do I remove those?
Thanks.

The part of the L bracket on the skull is held by small rivets. Once you have the cheap generic skull out of the machine, you could drill out the rivets to remove your L brackets. Once you do that, you could use a pop-rivet to fasten the new skull to the L bracket or even use a very short 6-32 nut and bolt to secure your new skull.

As a warning, I have not used a pop-rivet on something like the T2 skull and don't know if will go on without possibly damaging the new skull (Maybe another pinsider has done this in the past and can weigh in). The new rivet will be the most low profile, but the nut/bolt may be safer but more noticeable.

#1935 5 years ago

So my custom Topper came in from Argentina. Here is a video. The only thing left to do on my T2 is install Rocks diamond plate mirror blades and repaint the coin door and gun handle. I am going to have a hard time parting with this T2, I am really enjoying personalizing it.

#1936 5 years ago

dude, you have the squeakiest floor ever.

#1937 5 years ago

Gun handle assembly...before and after.
I used the old screws, painted and clear coated.

Old siderails. mirror polished.

DSCN5666.JPG IMG_2826.JPG IMG_2825.JPG IMG_2829.JPG IMG_2830.JPG
#1938 5 years ago

damn that looks really nice.

#1939 5 years ago

Ohwwaa !!! Marvelous...

#1940 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Gun handle assembly...before and after.

That looks great as an alternative to getting it plated. What paint did you use?

#1941 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

That looks great as an alternative to getting it plated. What paint did you use?

Automotive paint and automotive clear coating. Then, in the oven for 10 hours. Of course, this after serious cleaning and polishing.

#1942 5 years ago

Yea I'm gonna have to send the side rails and lock bar for mirror polishing.

#1943 5 years ago
Quoted from Nemesis:

Yea I'm gonna have to send the side rails and lock bar for mirror polishing.

Lockbar should be clear coated and polished, otherwise will look horrible after one week.

#1944 5 years ago
Quoted from loscanones:

Lockbar should be clear coated and polished, otherwise will look horrible after one week.

It's all scratched up at the moment. Buff, clear, polish?

#1945 5 years ago
Quoted from Nemesis:

It's all scratched up at the moment. Buff, clear, polish?

Yep, otherwise it will get stained in no time -from fingers.

#1946 5 years ago

Did you sandblast or what the gun handle, what was your prep process? Explain this oven method lol?.. Thanks brother!

#1947 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

dude, you have the squeakiest floor ever.

At least you didn't admire my uber attractive heavy breathing lol! All the damn snow is wreaking havoc on my sinuses.

#1948 5 years ago
Quoted from Nemesis:

Did you sandblast or what the gun handle, what was your prep process? Explain this oven method lol?.. Thanks brother!

No sandblasting. Wire brushes + hydrochloric acid in order to remove the old layer of chrome. Of course, a lot of work. The original had a lot of imperfections, so wire brushes are better option than sandblasting - at least for me.
Of course, when everything is done you cannot fit the trigger in its place. Copper and chrome should be removed manually ( this because i did not think about it BEFORE starting the procedure).
About oven...you mean how to "cook" the painted screws? Same procedure like when you paint your car. Same paint, same clear coating, same oven temperature.

#1949 5 years ago

Has anyone done any customization to the Hunter/Killer ship besides the LED plate underneath? I am specifically talking about any paint jobs, such as the teeth on the skull which IMHO really kicks ass?

#1950 5 years ago

BTW, lascanones machine really kicks ass..........sweet work!

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