Its on my youtube if you see any of my undercab stuff you should be able to find it.
Quoted from RussMyers:I am giving this 11" x 14" sheet of Rubylith a try.
It was under 7 bucks shipped, and I should be able to use it on two games.
ebay.com link
RussMyers
I just used it on my T2, and if anyone wants to see a side by side comparison.....
While I'm posting T2 pics, instead of those FUGLY condom eyes on the T-800, or paying for the mod eyes, I cheap'd out and simply used some nice Cometpinball non-ghost led's for mine.
I also used 3 of those 'sparkly bling things' inside my pop bumpers along with 3 more of the Cometpinball non-ghost bulbs..
Quoted from Patofnaud:or paying for the mod eyes, I cheap'd out and simply used some nice Cometpinball non-ghost led's for mine.
It looks better than condoms, but not as good as the mod....
I did sir. Just used some Createx (sp?) airbrush paint and a small brush. Mixed a pinch of black into some white and freehanded.
Nice thing with these paints is that you must use a heat gun to set them, so if you F'up you can just wipe it off with a towel prior.
Another thing I did was to use clear washers in my lane guides as protectors. T2 uses non-standard guides and are not exactly the easiest to find. Always out of stock, or one one style on hand.
Well, regarding my bad ghosting problem: I swapped out different sets of incandescent and LED's, leaving incandescents in the ghosting areas and I'm fine with that. So, I never really found the source of the problem. My guess is it's on the board somewhere-and that's where I'm leaving it for now. Looks fine with some incandescents in there and I don't think it's worth tracking it down on the board. At least for me, for now. Too many other projects. Said I'd report back, so here it is. Sorry it's not THE solution.
Mike
Quoted from papazit1963:Well, regarding my bad ghosting problem: I swapped out different sets of incandescent and LED's, leaving incandescents in the ghosting areas and I'm fine with that. So, I never really found the source of the problem. My guess is it's on the board somewhere-and that's where I'm leaving it for now. Looks fine with some incandescents in there and I don't think it's worth tracking it down on the board. At least for me, for now. Too many other projects. Said I'd report back, so here it is. Sorry it's not THE solution.
Mike
Welcome to my world. I just need to do it. Heres to procrastination! Cheers!
Hey guys check out this out.
$(KGrHqVHJBUE8+m6bef7BPWmjvT5W!~~60_57.JPG
Seems like this would be an easy and inexpensive way to add diamond plate to your T2 game. I'm going to order some and give it a try.
Post edited by phalcon_2600 : add picture
T2 Club members unite!! please take the time to email Color DMD displays requesting that they make a color DMD for T2. I'm sure If they get enough requests they will make one. Send your requests to: [email protected]
If your not familiar with the color DMD products you can see them here: http://www.colordmd.com/
Quoted from phalcon_2600:Hey guys check out this out.
ebay.com link
Seems like this would be an easy and inexpensive way to add diamond plate to your T2 game. I'm going to order some and give it a try.
Post edited by phalcon_2600 : add picture$(KGrHqVHJBUE8+m6bef7BPWmjvT5W!~... 180 KB
Interesting stuff. Is 6" tall enough to install like side mirrors? Show some pics when you get yours done please. Thanks,
Mike
Diamond plate has been done pics in this thread. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-diamond-plate-edition
Rock. I saw those. I didn't realize that was using this same tape. Looks really cool. So I take it the 6" width is tall enough to fill the side locations at the pf? Thanks.
Mike
I used 8". I have a template made and 50y of the stuff I didnt know there would be interest. Not an easy install but it works extremely well. It doesn't scratch up like mirror blades.
Quoted from Rock914:I used 8". I have a template made and 50y of the stuff I didnt know there would be interest. Not an easy install but it works extremely well. It doesn't scratch up like mirror blades.
I didn't see the 8" option on the ebay link. Largest was 6". Still thinking about it though. Thanks for the info.
Mike
There was not an 8 inch option (never is ) but I ordered some with the thought that you only need that couple of inches for the furthest back of the side and you could patch that in fairly easy, and no one would notice unless they shoved their face up in the cab.
Or get it pre cut and ready to install from me. If you do this yourself for the first time to do it right you will need to remove the pf and make a template. If you dont you will be wasting your money. Buy the 12" not the 6" you will need a 4' piece. Since the pf is deep in the back and only 2" in the front you wont need to patch in anything using a 12" piece. Good luck remember prep is key.
Here is the 8" option that doesn't exist. ebay.com link: itm
Sorry but if I say its out there it is. I will not have time to make these up until this weekend but I will add them to my website for $20.00. If you want to save a few bucks you now have the link. I can tell you if you do want to do this you will want it from me.
Quoted from Rock914:I can tell you if you do want to do this you will want it from me.
Word!
Thanks for the link Rock.
On that sellers other auction it did not have 8". ebay.com link: Mini Diamond Plate Vinyl Tape Choose Your Size
Quoted from Rock914:I can tell you if you do want to do this you will want it from me.
Rock is the most confident pinsider I know.
How hard can it be? Famous last words...
Thank you for the link!
Quoted from papazit1963:Rock is the most confident pinsider I know.
How hard can it be? Famous last words...
Thank you for the link!
No problem, you will find out! I am sure you guy's can handle this just fine. Please let us know how it goes. Take your time do it right. If this doesn't go to plan you know where you can get the ready to go stuff so you wont need to remove your PF
Well that one in the video is my prototype I can make more but they are not worth the $60.00 I would need to charge. My next design will be a must have it will be replacing the metal cover of the cannon. It will be a long time before I will be able to make this available. This is still just a hobby for me so I do these things in my spare time.
Quoted from Rock914:It will be a long time before I will be able to make this available.
***SIGH***
Bummer
Quoted from Chitownpinball:There is life outside of pinball?
I get pulled away all the time, but someone making a cool mod should not have the right to make us wait for it...
Quoted from Cheeks:I get pulled away all the time, but someone making a cool mod should not have the right to make us wait for it...
Im with you brother lol.
To all of you T2 Experts-
I have the unfortunate issue of the ball getting stuck under the skull. When the drop target drops, the ball gets stuck on the backside of the target (ie the groove behind the drop target). I have tried raising the target using the screw, but that does not help. There is some wear in the area , but I believe if I LOWER the drop target to be a bit below the surface of the playfield it will be OK. Unfortunately it is as low as it goes (the screw backed out all the way). Has anyone ever experienced this with T2, and can recommend a fix?
Loscanones- beautiful work! The gun looks great. We have a guy here in the states that does this. He did my T2, and just did my Fish Tales in chrome
Since I didn't like the original Fish Tales button, I followed a thread here on Pinside and improvised with a Stern tournament button.
I haven't had the issue you are having with T2 but I did have the same thing with a Pinbot.
Can you lower the target assembly under the playfield by adding washers between the assembly and the playfield?
You may have to fill the wear with a piece or two of mylar. You can fill a groove by building up strips of mylar like an upside down pyramid. In that area, you will never see it.
Quoted from WannaTheater:I have the unfortunate issue of the ball getting stuck under the skull.
I have the same issue. What I did was to make sure the top of drop target was as flush as possible with the playfield when the drop target was down. I made two adjustments to do that. First, I used the screw to raise the drop target slightly. Second, I bent the entire drop target assembly forward slightly to get rid of the angle that the top of the drop target had with the playfield. I need to test it more but so far the results have been encouraging.
Thanks- I though about formal wood patching, but that requires removing the skull (and associated plastics, etc) and is a pain. I will try the mylar approach (assuming I can do it without removing the skull). Otherwise it will be adding some washers to lower the entire bracket/assembly. I'll report back once I get it done.
Quoted from calico1997:photo5.JPG 271 KB
Where do you find this chrome strip that you put around the backbox ?
Quoted from Arcadedl:Where did you get the new cabinet decals, are those the chrome edition? Looks great!!
Dan
http://www.pinball-dreams.com/
And yes, it`s a Chrome Edition but probably they do not want to sell it separately.
I bought the whole kit from them and have lots of problems as you can see in previous pages of this thread.
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